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New Delhi &
Old Delhi Population:
11 million Delhi is the capital and the third largest city of India. There are two parts of the city—Old Delhi, the old Muslim capital, and xe "New Delhi" New Delhi. Delhi is a Union Territory, which is independent of any state rule, similar to Washington DC. There
is the impressive Red Fort and Jami Masjid Mosque in Old Delhi. There
are many other interesting sites in Delhi, including what remains
of the eight great cities of Delhi. Foreigners often invaded Delhi. Tamerlane sacked the city in the 14th century, killing many of its residents. Babur came from Afghanistan in the 16th century and conquered Delhi. Nadir Shah sacked the city in 1739, and took away the Peacock Throne and the Kohinoor Diamond. Eight
major cities have been situated in the Delhi area. The first four
cities were in the southern part of present-day Delhi. The Tomara
Rajput dynasty founded Lal Kot in 736 AD. The Chauthan dynasty conquered
Lal Kot and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora in 1180. This was the first
major city of Delhi and it was situated near the Qutb Minar in south
Delhi. The Rajputs were defeated by an Afghanistan army led by Muhammad
Ghori. Ala-ud-din-Khalji (1296-1316) gained control of Delhi and constructed the second city of Delhi, Siri, in 1303, near present-day Hauz Khas. Ghiyas-ud-din Tughluq became Sultan of Delhi in 1320. He built Tughlaqabad, the third city, which was located 10km southeast of the Qutb Minar. This city was occupied for only five years. Not much remains of it. Jahanpanah, the fourth city, was built by Muhammad din Tughluq in the 14th century between Lal Kot and Siri. The fifth city, Firozabad, is located in New Delhi. Firuz Shah, the then Sultan of Delhi, had the Ashoka pillars from Meerut and Topra moved to his city. Timur (Tamerlane), a Turk, sacked Delhi in 1398. After this, the Sayyids (1414-50) took control of Delhi. They were replaced by the Lodi dynasty. In 1556, the governors of Sind and Punjab invited Babur, who was in Afghanistan, to aid them in defeating Ibrahim Lodi. During the battle, Lodi was killed and Babur took control of Delhi. After his death, his son, Humayun, succeeded Babur. The Afghan Sher Shah defeated Humayun. The sixth city, Purana Qila (then called Shergarh), was established by Emperor Sher Shah in 1540. It is located near India Gate in New Delhi. Akbar, the son of Humayun, moved the capital to Agra. The seventh city, Shahjahanabad in Old Delhi, was built by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, and the capital was moved from Agra to Delhi at this time. His impressive Red Fort is still standing and is well-preserved. Old Delhi was the capital of the Muslim Mughal emperors between the 17th and 19th centuries. The eighth city, New Delhi, was constructed mainly by the British, beginning in 1911. At the Delhi Durbar on December 12, 1911, King George V declared that Delhi would become the new capital of India, replacing Calcutta. The city was officially declared the capital of the British Empire in India in 1931. After Independence in 1947, Delhi remained the capital. Getting
Your Bearings About twenty minutes north of Connaught Place by car is Old Delhi, where the crowded Chandni Chowk shopping area is located. The Red Fort, the long distance bus station, and the Old Delhi railway station are located here. The
Foreign embassies are mainly in the Chanakyapuri area, about a twenty-minute
drive southwest of Connaught Place. Nizamuddin Train Station is southeast
of Connaught Place. Further south, in southeast New Delhi, are the
interesting Baha’i and ISKCON temples. The airport is a forty-minute
drive southwest of the city center. The India Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC), L-Block, Connaught Place, runs tours of Delhi and some other places in India. The ITDC office at Jeevan Vihar Bldg, 3rd Fl, 3 P Street, can book reservations for ITDC hotels, which usually go under the name “Ashok”. Delhi
Tourism Dev. Corp. (Delhi Tourism) has offices at N-Block, Connaught
Place (331-3637); the international airport; New Delhi Railway Station;
Delhi Railway Station; Inter-State Bus Terminal; and at the Coffee
House on Baba Kharak Singh Marg (345-358). Haryana (332-4910), Himachal Pradesh (332-5320), and Uttar Pradesh (332-2251) offices are located in the Chandralok Building at 36 Janpath. The offices for Madhya Pradesh (332-1187), Punjab (332-3055), Jammu & Kashmir (332-5373), and Kerala (331-6541) are in the Kanishka Shopping Center between the Yatri Niwas and Kanishka Hotels at 19 Ashoka Rd. The Rajasthan Tourist Office (338-3837, 338-1884; fax 338-2823) is on Bikaner Rd by India Gate. Goa (462-9968), 18 Amrita Shergil Marg; Andhra Pradesh (381-293) 1 Ashok Rd; Andaman & Nicobar Islands Tourist Office (688-2116, 687-1443; fax 378-2642), No 12 in Chanakyapuri (opposite the cinema), is open from 3 to 5 pm; Sikkim (301-3026), Sikkim Bhavan, Chanakyapuri; Meghalaya (301-5503), 9 Aurangzeb Rd; Tripura (301-4607), Tripura Bhavan, Chanakyapuri. There are a few good local magazines about Delhi. The weekly Delhi Diary and The Delhi City lists current events, tourist sites, exhibitions and has a map. First City also lists current events. Warning! There are no tourist offices across the street from the New Delhi railway station, despite what the signs say. These offices are travel agencies, many of which can be total cheaters. There is a tourist counter inside the station. This does not mean that some of the travel agents are honest, but definitely beware of anyone coming up to you that points out that the tourist office is actually across the street and tries to bring you there. Tourist office people never do this. Guided
Tours ITDC runs a half-day tour of New Delhi (Rs 100, 8 am to 1 pm) or Old Delhi (Rs 90, 2:15 to 7 pm). They also run a full-day tour of New Delhi and Old Delhi from 8 am to 7 pm for Rs 175. The five-hour New Delhi tour goes to the Lakshmi-Narayana Temple, the Jantar Mantar, India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, and the Qutb Minar. The Old Delhi tour goes to the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Raj Ghat, Shanti Vana and Firoz Shah Kotla. ITDC
has a one-day tour of Agra that goes to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort,
and Sikandra from 6:30 am to 10 pm for Rs 500. You can book these
tours at the ITDC office at L-Block at Connaught Place near the Nirula’s
Restaurant, at their counters in the airports, or at ITDC Hotels. The Haridwar-Rishikesh tour departs 7:15 am on Wed and Sat and returns the next day at 8 pm (Rs 450). It is run by Delhi Tourism, which has many offices all over town. The main one is at N-36, Bombay Life Building, Connaught Place. There is a one-day and two-day tour of Jaipur and a two-day tour of Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. There is also a two-day tour of Mathura, Agra, and Fatehpur Sikri. Uttar
Pradesh Tourism (332-2251), 36 Janpath, operates an overnight tour
to Haridwar and Rishikesh for Rs 700. Delhi
is most comfortable between October and March. Daytime temperatures
are around 22ºC (72ºF) between late November and the beginning
of March. It is cold at night from December to February, with temperatures
falling to 3ºC (37ºF). During May and June, it can be extremely
hot with temperatures rising to 46ºC (114ºF). The rainy
season is from the middle of July to the middle of September. During
this time it rains every few days and does not usually rain for more
than an hour or two at a time. Tripsout Travels (332-2654; fax 332-1863), 72 Janpath, behind the India Tourist Office, are reliable but very busy, so expect to wait. I know people who have been using them for years and recommend them. They are a good discount travel agency. Aa Bee Travels (752-0117; fax 753-2795), in the Hare Rama Guest House, Paharganj, is an honest discount ticket-seller. Competitive and recommended. Shigeta Travels (751-9000), in the Ajay Guest House, seems trust-worthy. The owner speaks Japanese well. Gagan
Travels and Tours (751-0061; fax 753 4093), at west end of the Main
Bazaar in Paharganj, has a good reputation. More upscale are Cox & Kings (332-0067), Indra Palace, H-Block, Connaught Circus; Sita World Travels (331-1133), 4 Malcha Marg, Diplomatic Enclave; American Express, (332-4119), A-Block, Connaught Place; Y’s Tours and Travels, YMCA; Thomas Cook (332-8468), Hotel Imperial, Janpath and Rishya Mook Building, 85A Panchkuin Marg. President Travel (331-0793), Arunachal Building, 19 Barakhamba Rd, is efficient. Wanderlust (687-5200; 688-5188), M51/52 Palika Bhawan, opposite Hyatt Regency is efficient. Peak
Adventure Tours (643-3294), 29A, Kailash Colony, and Snow Lion Expeditions
(552-4389; 553-0153) 512-B Kirti Shikher Janak Puri, are foreign run
and very efficient. Institute of Medical Sciences (661-123), at Ansari Nagar, and the Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital (345-525), Baba Kharak Singh Marg. Apollo Hospital, Mathura Rd, on the border of southeast Delhi, is a new, modern hospital, which has some of the best doctors in India. Recommended, but expensive. In Paharganj is Dr Sharwan Gupta’s Care Clinic and Laboratory (751-7841; Home 623-3088), 1468 Sangatrashan, Paharganj, two blocks north of the west end of Main Bazaar. The clinic is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 7:30 pm and Sun 10 am to 1 pm. Also
in Paharganj, Dr BS Pancholi’s Clinic Dr. B.S.
Pancholi Clinic,555 gali Chandi Wali, Bhandari Homeopathic Store (373-2450), 43-44 Municipal Market, opposite the York Hotel, Connaught Circus, has an excellent selection of German, Swiss, and Indian-made homeopathic medicines. The Tibetan Clinic (Men-Tsee-Khang-Exports) (621-2604) is located at 13 Jaipur Estate, Nizamuddin East, New Delhi. They treat people by a natural herbal method and have been recommended to me by several people. To get there, ask to go to Jaipur Estate, which is near the Nizamuddin railway station, in southeast New Delhi. Renoo and Nalin Nirula (611-3990, 688-5990; fax 688-0474), A-14 Anand Niketan, New Delhi, are consisted to be some of the best Rieki Masters in the world. Beside treatment, they also offer courses. Some doctors recommended by the US Embassy are: Dr Chawla (462-1684), 37 Prithviraj Rd; Dr KP Jain (644-3615), C036 South Extension (Clinic: 16 Daryaganj); and Dr Harish Khasla (629-544), 166 Jor Bagh. The Delhi Dental Centre (644-4918, 644-2398), C-565 Extension II, has been recommended to me as a good place to have dental work done. It is best to call for an appointment. Dr Chopra is supposed to be good. DR SP Aggarwal (619-7777), R-4A Green Park Extension, is a good dentist. Open Tue to Sat 10 am to 1 pm and 4 to 7 pm. Lawrence
& Mayo, 76 Janpath, and Bon-Ton Opticians, 13 Janpath Market have
good glasses and sunglasses. Medikos Opticians, 1588 Main Bazaar,
Paharganj, does eye tests and makes up glasses quickly. A recommended
economical place to get glasses is Eastern Optical Corporation (331-3907),
15 Shankar Market. To
find his office, you go to the Nizamuddin railway station. As you
walk out the door, turn left and take a rickshaw or walk about half
a km. When you come to the Y-intersection, take the left fork past
some vegetable stands, which brings you over the train tracks. After
the train tracks, walk about 50 m (165 ft) and turn right at the intersection.
His office is at the end of the road, a minute away. Open 9.30 am
to 1 pm. Closed Mondays and sometimes he is not there for a week or
two. Express couriers: Overnight Express (open 24 hours) and Blue Dart (332-4511), both have offices in the Kanishka Shopping Plaza, next to the Ashok Yatri Niwas Hotel. DHL (686-7090), 11 Ashirwad, D-1, Green Park, is efficient at shipping packages out of India. Belair Travel and Cargo (331-3985), 10-B Scindia House, ships heavy baggage overseas. Sham Store (738-945), Main Bazaar across from Galaxy Guest House has an export license and can ship goods overseas. Parcel Packing Service (777-8298), T-298 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, next to the Hare Rama Guest House, is a reliable shipper. They can package and send parcels home for you. I have used them myself. Recommended.
Parcel Packing and Cargo Service (738-945), 5068 Main Bazaar, Paharganj,
is a reliable shipper. Internet The
Roye Business Centre, down a side street behind the Kwality Restaurant
in Connaught Place has email service for around Rs 20 for 10 minutes
or Rs 100 for one hour. Cybercafe, N-Block, is an e-mail place open
9.30 am to 8.30 pm. Calculus Cyber Center (373-4007), above Khadi
Gramdyog, near Regal Cinema, has web service for Rs 100 per hour and
Rs 60 per half-hour. Thomas Cook (332-7135; fax 371-5685), in the Imperial Hotel on Janpath, and at C-Block in Connaught Place (335-6575; fax 335-6580) changes money efficiently. They have a branch at the International Airport and at Nehru Place. The Bank of Baroda (332-8230), Sansad Marg, give cash advances on Visa and MasterCard. The places in the Main Bazaar in Paharganj usually give good rates of exchange and change money quickly. There are several places that change money in the bazaar. Ankur Guest House, across from the Hare Rama Guest House, changes money efficiently at good rates. Baluja Exports (753-2419), 4596 Main Bazaar, in Paharganj, changes money quickly and efficiently at the current bank rate, and they do not take a commission. They are recommended if you are staying in Paharganj. Banks: State Bank of India, Sansad Marg; State Bank of India, 250m from the east end of Chandni Chowk; Bank of America (372-2332) Hansalaya Building, 15 Barakhamba Rd; Citibank (371-2484), Jeevan Bharati Building, Connaught Place; ANZ Grindlays (372-1242), H-10 Connaught Place; Banque Nationnale de Paris (331-3883), 15 Barakhamba Rd; and Hong Kong Bank (331-4355), 28 Kasturba Gandhi Marg. Banks are usually open 10 am to 2 pm Mon to Fri and from 10 am to noon on Sat. The international banks are usually located near Connaught Place. Changing money at the State Bank of India can take more than an hour. The money changing facilities at the Ashok Hotel are open 24 hours a day. There
are many ATM machine at banks in the Connaught Place area. The Citibank
Machine (Cirrus system), a few blocks from Connaught Place on Barakhamba
Rd, has closed. If you need a longer extension than 15 days, you must first get authorization from the Ministry of Home Affairs at Khan Market (open 10 am to noon, not a minute later). You then take the form to the Foreigners’ Registration Office. If the visa extension is given, you return to the Home Office, which is where the visa itself will be issued. The men working in this office are really intelligent, so it does not pay to come up with a too extreme bogus story or try to fool them (don’t make a fool out of them). If you have overstayed your visa by a few day, expect to be chastised and ask for forgiveness politely. Tourist are expected to be a bit spaced out. I found them to be reasonable if you are straightforward with them (even if you are making up a story). A
tax clearance certificate is issued around the corner from Hans Bhavan
at the Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department (331-7826) in
the Central Revenue Building on Vikas Marg. You have to bring exchange
certificates with you to show that you changed money legally and did
not work in India. The office is closed from 1 to 2 pm. Libraries
and Cultural Centers Photography Motorcycle
Shops Australia The main sites to see are the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid mosque, and the markets in the Chandni Chowk area. At
the north end of what is left of the old city of Shah Jahanabad is
Kashmiri Gate. Across from the gate is the Interstate bus terminal.
Across from the bus station is the Qudsia Gardens, which were built
in 1748 by the wife of the Mughal emperor, Muhammad Shah. West of
the gate is an Ashok Pillar, which was brought to this spot by Firoz
Shah Tughlaq. Near the pillar is the Mutiny Memorial, which honors
the British soldiers who died in the Uprising of 1857. From here there
are good views of the city. North of the Old Delhi Post Office, before
Kashmiri Gate, is St James’ Church (1836). Colonel James Skinner
built it. Prayers
are chanted by a priest from the platform under the center arch in
the most western part of the mosque. Before amplification, the small
post between here and the east gate is where a priest would repeat
the prayers so those in the back could hear. On the floor of the mosque,
each rectangle designates the space that is used by a worshiper while
offering prayers. In the center of the courtyard is a hauz (water
tank), used to clean the hands and feet before worshiping. On the
east side of the mosque there are lines that mark where one mourns
the dead. The symmetrical patterns on the arches represent the lotus
flower. You can climb the south minaret (tower) and get a good view of the city (Rs 5, camera Rs 10). From there you can get a great view of Old Delhi, the Red Fort, and New Delhi to the south. Caution: women, especially if alone, should beware of men trying to touch them on the dark stairway. Priests’ homes are to the west of the mosque. Priests have lived here since the time of Shah Jahan. The
mosque is open for tourists from thirty minutes after dawn until 12:20
pm (noon on Fri), 1:45 pm until twenty minutes before azan, the call
for prayer, and then from after the prayer until twenty minutes before
sunset. Entry fee Rs 10, camera Rs 10; lungi to wrap around bare legs
Rs 5-10. Near the beginning of Chandni Chowk, opposite the entrance to the Red Fort, is the Digambara Jain Temple. It was built in the 17th century, but over the years many additions have been made. It contains intricate carvings and is dedicated to the twenty-third tirthankara, Parshvanath. The Jain Bird Hospital is located in the temple courtyard, treating up to fifty birds a day. Open October to March from 6 am to 1 pm and 6 to 7 pm; April to September from 5:30 am to 12:30 pm and 7 to 8 pm. West
of the Jain Temple is the Gauri Shankar Temple, which
contains an 800-year-old Siva-linga. Next to the linga are deities
of Gauri (Parvati) and Shankar (Siva). Sunehri Masjid is a few blocks west of the Jain Temple. Nadir Shah, who sacked Delhi in 1739, is said to have watched from the roof of the mosque while his soldiers slaughtered thousands of the residents of Delhi. Sisganj Gurudwara, near the police station in the middle of Chandni Chowk, marks the place where Aurangzeb beheaded Guru Teg Bahadur in 1675, after the Sikh guru refused to convert to Islam. Fathpuri Mosque, at the west end of Chandni Chowk, was built in 1650 by one of Shah Jahan’s wives. Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks by Gaynor Barton and Lauraine Malone, published by Rupa and Co, is a good guide book of the area. Coronation
Durbar Site Raj
Ghat There is a museum at Birla House, Tees January Marg, near the Claridges Hotel. It is the site of Gandhi’s assassination. Raj Ghat is close to the west bank of the Yamuna River, about 2km southeast of the Red Fort and 1km east of Delhi Gate. Just south of the monument is a park containing trees and flowers planted by different dignitaries—Eisenhower planted gladiolas, Queen Elizabeth II planted a pine tree, and Nasser from Egypt planted a slanted tree. A little north is Shanti Vana (“Forest of Peace”), which is the cremation site of Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister. His daughter Indira Gandhi was cremated here in 1984, as were her sons Sanjay in 1980 and Rajiv in 1991. A little further north is Vijay Ghat (“Victory Ghat”), which is where Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri was cremated in 1965. Firoz
Shah Kotla There
are also the ruins of the palace of Firoz Shah Kotla, a huge old ruined
mosque, and a circular baoli (step-well). Firozabad is between new
and old Delhi, near Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, 500m east of Delhi Gate.
Not many people visit here. Rashtrapati
Bhavan (President’s Residence) There is a 145m pillar between the residence and the gate, donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur. It is called the Jaipur Column and is topped by a bronze lotus and a six pointed star, which was at one time the shape of the Star of India (it now has just five points). Rashtrapati Bhavan is located south of Connaught Place, at the other end of Rajpath from India Gate. On Saturday (10 to 10:30 am) there is a parade of the guards, which resembles the changing of the guard in London. Rajpath
runs east to west, with India Gate at one end and Rashtrapati Bhavan
at the other. The Republic Day Parade is held on this street each
year on January 26. Opposite Sansad Bhavan is the 20th century white marble Rakabganj Gurudwara. This is where the body of the Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur was cremated after Aurangzeb beheaded him. To the north of Sansad Bhavan is the Church of the Sacred Heart (1934). The Cathedral Church of the Redemption (1935) is a design-winning church. The Secretariat buildings are on either side of Raisina Hill. All the important government ministries are located here, including the Home, Foreign Affairs, and Finance Ministries. They are longs buildings with domes on top of them. India
Gate WARNING Be careful of the shoeshine men who throw muck on your shoes as you walk by and then point it out to you with an offer to clean it. While they are cleaning your shoes, they may even damage them and then offer to repair them at a hefty price. Be careful of the ear cleaners, because they often cause damage to the ears that they clean. Lakshmi
Narayana Birla Temple Jantar
Mantar National
Museum The museum has a good collection of terra-cottas, dating back to the fifth century. There are also ancient paintings showing Krishna’s pastimes. The museum has a collection of rare and precious antique jewelry. There is a weapon collection, musical instruments, and intricately carved wooden doors. There is a collection of Arabic and Persian manuscripts which include the handwritten writings of Emperor Jahangir. The museum is located on Janpath, just south of Rajpath. Open daily except Mon and government holidays from 10 am to 5 pm; admission Rs 0.50. Guided tours are offered at 10:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. There is a film shown at 2:30 pm. Archaeological
Survey of India Nehru
Memorial Museum and Planetarium It was originally built in 1930 to be used by the British Commander in Chief. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 4:45 pm. There is a Son et Lumiere (Sound and Light Show) at 6 pm in Hindi and 7:15 pm in English. The Nehru Planetarium is located next to the Nehru Museum. Open daily except Mon, shows at 11 am and 3 pm; admission Rs 5. National
Rail Transport Museum The
museum is located in the Chanakyapuri area near the embassies, at
Shantipath and Nyaya Marg. Open daily except Mon 9:30 am to 5:30 pm;
admission Rs 5, cameras Rs 10. This
is the former residence of Indira Gandhi, located at 1 Safdarjung
Rd. Some of her personal belongings are on exhibit, including the
bloodstained sari she was wearing when she was assassinated in December
1984. There is a collection of press clippings, letters, and photos
in reference to her. There is also a crystal plaque in the garden
marking the place where her two Sikh bodyguards shot her. Open daily
except Mon 9:30 am to 5 pm; admission free. This museum contains a collection of art painted in India over the last 150 years. The highlight of the collection are the paintings done by Bengali artists at the beginning of this century, such as Nandalal Bose, Rabindranath Tagore, Abanendranath Tagore, and Jamini Roy. There is a good collection of art books in the Art Reference Library. This museum (338-2835) is located in the Jaipur House, near India Gate. It used to be the Delhi home of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm; admission free. Crafts
Museum National
Police Museum Other
Museums The National Philatelic Museum is located in the post office on Sansad Marg (Parliament St). There is a large collection of rare stamps here, including stamps issued by the Princely States before Independence. Visitors can obtain an entry pass in the post office’s basement. Commemorative stamps are available for purchase. Open weekdays 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2:30 to 4:30 pm. The Air Force Museum at the International Airport has a collection of old planes, and an exhibit showing the history of the Indian Air Force. Open daily except Tues 10 am to 1:30 pm. Sangeet Natak Akademi (338-7246), Rabindra Bhavan, is the main institution for music (sangeet) and dance (natak) in India. It has a good collection of musical instruments, costumes, and masks. There is also a library containing rare books. It has a large collection of films and photographs. Open Mon through Fri 9:30 am to 6 pm; admission free. Shankar’s
International Doll Museum, B Shah Zafar Marg, has an interesting
collection of over 6,000 dolls. It is open 10 am to 6 pm; admission
Rs 1. Purana
Qila (Old Fort) Purana Qila is the sixth city of Delhi and was built by the Afghan, Sher Shah (1538-45), after he defeated Humayun. The main gate is called Bara Darwaza (Great Gate), the south gate is called Humayun Darwaza, and the north gate is called Talaqi Darwaza (Forbidden Gate). The Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid (Old Fort Mosque) was built by Sher Shah from red sandstone in 1541. The mosque is well-maintained. Sher Mandal is a red sandstone octagonal building, which Humayun used as a library. It is said that Humayun received a fatal injury when he tripped while coming down the stairs of the Sher Mandal. There
is a small archaeological museum inside the main
gate, which has some of the items discovered in and around Purana
Qila. Signs say you cannot climb the walls of the fort, but visitors
may ask permission of the guards and get a good view of New Delhi.
Purana Qila is just off Mathura Rd, about 1km southeast of India Gate,
and 4km southeast of Connaught Place. Open daily from dawn to 6:30
pm; admission Rs 0.50. National
Zoological Park Humayun ruled India from 1530 until 1540, when Sher Shah defeated him. At that time he went into exile and returned in 1555 to reclaim the throne of Delhi. He died a year later. It is said that he was walking down the stairs of his library and heard the call to prayer. He immediately sat down on the nearest step to pray. After rising, he tripped and fell down the stairs. The injuries he received caused his death. Nine years after he died, in 1565, Hamida (Haji) Begam, his eldest widow and mother of his son Akbar, began the construction of his tomb. Haji Begam was also buried here. The tomb is built on top of a huge base and is octagonal. It has double domes which rise almost 40m above the base. The tomb has high arches and beautiful marble lattice screens. Bahadur Shah II, the last Mughal emperor, is also buried here. He was captured here by the British during the 1857 Uprising. Barber’s Tomb is southeast of Humayun’s tomb. Outside the walls that surround Humayun’s Tomb is Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome), which is an octagonal tomb with a dome covered with blue tiles. It is not known for whom it was built, but it is believed to have been built before 1625. Near the entrance of the Halima’s Garden is the Tomb of Isa Khan, one of Sher Shah’s nobleman. Humayun’s Tomb is open daily, dawn to sunset; admission Rs 0.50, video camera Rs 25. Hazrat
Nizamuddin’s Tomb To
the west is the Jama-at Khana Masjid, a red sandstone mosque
built in 1325 by Khizr Khan, the son of Ala-ud-din-Khalji. South of the main tomb, next to Khusrau’s tomb, is the Tomb of Jahanara, the daughter of Shah Jahan. She asked that her grave be covered with nothing but grass, so there is no dome or other structure over the tomb. When her father was imprisoned in the Agra Fort, she stayed with him. The Tomb of Atgah Khan is also here. He was dear to Humayun and his son, Akbar. He was killed by Adham Khan in Agra. Akbar then had Adham Khan killed. Often
in the evenings (5-7 pm), especially on Thursdays and Muslim holidays,
qawwali singers perform evening prayers. There are
two major Urs (fairs) each year in honor of the anniversaries of Nizamuddin
Aulia and Amir Khusrau’s death. Before entering the tombs, you
should cover your head with a hat or handkerchief. This place is near
the Nizamuddin Railway Station, just off Mathura Rd. The #454 bus,
which travels between Paharganj and Nizamuddin via Palika Bazaar,
stops here. In the center of the Gardens is the 15th century Bara Gumbad (Large Dome), a square tomb with a massive dome. It is made of red, gray, and black stones. The tomb has painted stucco work in the interior. It is not known who is buried here. There is a mosque connected to the tomb, which was built in 1494. It is inscribed with texts from the Koran, colored tiles, and floral patterns. A little north of Bara Gumbad is Shish Gumbad (Glazed Dome), built in the early 16th century. It was covered with blue tiles, but now many of them are gone. The Tomb of Muhammad Shah (1434-44), built in the mid-15th century, is about 400m south of Bara Gumbad. It has a high dome. Muhammad
Shah was the third Sayyid ruler. Safdarjang’s
Tomb The
battlefield where Timur defeated Mahmud Shah Tughluq in 1398 is just
south of here. Also located here is Firoz Shah’s Tomb (1398). West and north of the tomb are the ruins of some multi-storey buildings— all that is left of an old college built by Firoz Shah in 1354. The ruins of the Idgah Mosque, built in 1405, are close by. There
is a daily cultural show at 6:45 pm (Rs 100). Music and dance performances
are also held here. Tughluqabad was abandoned, being used for only five more years. When he returned from a military campaign, the pavilion built to welcome him by Muhammad-bin Tughluq, his son and successor, was deliberately collapsed, causing his death. On a hill to the southeast are the ruins of the later Adilabad Fort, built by Ghiyas-ud-din’s son, Muhammad Shah II. It is said that after Ghiyas-ud-din claimed the workers Nizamuddin had arranged to build his shrine, Nizamuddin cursed the king that only shepherds would inhabit his city. This has proved true. This place is located on the Mehrauli to Badarpur Rd, 16km southeast of Connaught Place, and 8km due east of Qutb Minar. To get here by bus, take #451 from Jantar Mantar to Badarpur, then catch the bus going to Mehrauli. You can also catch a bus to this place from the Qutb Minar Complex. Jahanpanah
Khirki
Masjid Baha’i
Temple It
is a popular place. It is 12km southeast of Connaught Place. Bus #433
from Sansad Marg, near Connaught Place, stops near this temple. Open
April to Sept, daily except Mon 9 am to 7 pm; Oct to March 9:30 am
to 5:30 pm; Admission free. There is an audio visual show at 11 am,
12 noon, 2 pm, and 3:30 pm. It is closed twice a day for an hour for
morning and evening prayers (approximately 10 am and 4 pm). To get to the temple, ask for the Sant Nagar area by Nehru Place. There are two Sant Nagar areas in Delhi, so adding “by Nehru Place” is essential. Once you arrive at the Sant Nagar area, ask anyone directions to the temple. The temple is located in the southeast part of Delhi by Mathura Rd. It is half an hour by auto-rickshaw from Connaught Place. Ashoka’s
Rock Edict Swimming
Pools and Gym Many shops in Connaught Place sell modern clothes and other items, as well as traditional handicrafts. You can purchase good Tibetan goods at Tibetan Market, on Janpath, near the Imperial Hotel. These shops are managed by Tibetan Refugees and Kashmiris. They sell carpets, antiques (alleged), jewelry, and handicrafts. On Baba Kharak Singh Marg, there are State Emporiums representing many of the Indian states. They carry brass items, woodcarvings, textiles, jewelry, handicrafts, and many other items. The goods in these shops are some of the highest quality in India, but they have price tags to match. The Tamil Nadu Emporium is worth visiting, just to see it. The
Main Bazaar in Paharganj has a wide assortment of shops. A few shops
specialize in incense, oils, and perfumes. It is crowded. Khan Market is a good place to purchase fruit, vegetables, and imported food. It also has good book shops. Hauz
Khas Village in South Delhi has several upmarket shops and is an interesting
place. There are several shops selling designer clothing. Central
Cottage Industries Emporium, Janpath and Tolstoy Marg, carries good
quality cotton and silk fabrics and clothing. They have an excellent
selection. It is a government shop with fixed prices, and they will
ship overseas if requested. Their prices may be higher than at other
places, but the quality makes up for it. You can purchase detailed maps of India and its cities from the Map Sales Office, Survey of India, near the Central Cottages Emporium, 1st floor, Janpath. Book
Shops An excellent place to buy travel and other books is the round bookstall just south of Connaught Place on Janpath. They sell books at the best prices I have seen in India, and the man who runs it is quick and efficient. Piccadilly Book Stall, Shop No 64, Shankar Market, on a side road off M-Block from Connaught Place, has the best selection of astrology and spiritual books in Delhi, and one of the best in India. Bahri Sons at Khan Market has probably the largest selection of travel books. The Bookshop, Khan Market, also has a good selection. At BPB Publications on B-Block, Connaught Place, you can purchase computer books. They have many of the latest titles from the US; a book costing $25 will go for $7 here. In the center of Palika Bazaar there are two good book shops across from each other, Book World (Shop #7) and Rajiv Book House (Shop #30); both carry books mainly about India. Motilal Banarsidass (291-8335 Fax: 99-11-293-0689), 41 UA Bungalow Rd, has a huge selection of books on Indian philosophy, the Puranas, astrology, and Ayurvedic medicines. They are wholesalers, but will also sell retail. They have a branch at Nai Sarak, Chandni Chowk. Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers (777-1668; fax: 99-11-751-2745), 54 Rani Jhansi Road, has a large selection of Indian philosophy books. They are also publishers. Sagar Publications (332-0648), 72 Ved Mansion, down a side road off Janpath, carries a good selection of astrology, Vedic, and Ayurvedic medicine books. Many of the bigger hotels have good bookshops, such as the Taj Mahal, Taj Palace, Hotel Kanishka, and Claridges. J acksons Books, 5106 Main Bazaar, west end of Paharganj, has a good selection of used books in English, French, German, Italian, and other languages. Fruit,
Vegetable & Supermarkets Entertainment Around
Delhi by Taxi or Rickshaw Often Delhi auto-rickshaw drivers will not use their meters. Therefore, you will have to negotiate the fare. This is especially true of short-distance travel. In Connaught Place, rickshaw drivers often refuse to use their meters. If you convince them to use the meter, they may drive you all over town before taking you to your destination. This has happened to me several times. Ask what the fare should be at your hotel or at a shop, then bargain for that price. Luggage charges can be levied if your bags weigh more than 20 kg. This charge should be worked out in advance. Auto-rickshaw drivers will be more reluctant to use the meter for short distances. From the New Delhi railway station to Connaught Place by the meter is Rs 7, but few rickshaw drivers will bring you there for less than Rs 15. Sometimes they will charge as much as Rs 50 or more. The flagfall for taxis is Rs 7 and for auto-rickshaws Rs 4.40. Besides what you see on the meter, expect something to be added (“fare adjustment”) because few meters are regularly adjusted. You can ask to see your driver’s updated rate card, which they must show upon request. If they do not have a rate card, ask a local. An extra night charge of 20% for auto-rickshaws and 25% for taxis is added between 11 pm and 5 am. To make a complaint, call 331-9334. The Delhi City Guide (available at newsstands) prints an updated fare chart. By auto-rickshaw no fare should cost more than Rs 100 to anywhere in Delhi from Connaught Place. From Connaught Place to the Red Fort or Chandni Chowk, it should cost about Rs 100 by taxi or Rs 40 by auto-rickshaw. Paharganj to Connaught Place Rs 15; Paharganj to Old Delhi railway station Rs 40; Connaught Place to Chanakyapuri Rs 40. If you want to hire a car for the day, the tourist office on Janpath rents cars. You can also go to the taxi booth at the end of Tibetan Market on Janpath. Travel agents will usually charge a higher rate than if you arrange for a car yourself, but the travel agent’s car will usually be more reliable. Metropole Tourist Service (469-2212), 294 Defence Flyover Market, is a reliable place to hire a luxury car. A good source for a long-distance taxi (taxi to Agra, Jaipur, etc.) is Gaurav Tours (753-5062), 5212 Basant Road, Paharganj. A taxi for all day should be around Rs 500, with a tip to the driver of Rs 50 or Rs 100. There
are six-seater (but fifteen may fit in) motorcycle rickshaws which
run along fixed routes for a fixed price (usually around Rs 3 and
not more than Rs 5). From Palika Bazaar in Connaught Place they go
to the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk. You can rent a bicycle from Mehta Cycles for Rs 25 a day (Rs 600 deposit), with a Rs 5 overnight charge. Prepaid
Taxi Stands WARNING Beware of travel agents at the railway station, airport, and in Connaught Place that post unofficial Government Tourist Office signs. If you read the signs closely, you will find in small print “Approved by J & K” or some other government office in small letters, and in huge letters “GOVERNMENT TOURIST OFFICE.” A friend saw one of these signs, pointed out by one of their employees, and assumed that since it was a government tourist office, it must be bona fide and honest. The staff there told him that it would cost $30 to get to Mathura by train. The real cost was $1.25 (Rs 42). They told him that considering the trouble and cost taking the train would entail, he would be better off paying $60 for a taxi to Vrindavan (150km from Delhi). He believed them, although the real price at that time was Rs 800 ($25). I
have also heard of a case in which a travel agent had two women pay
$235 each to share a taxi to Jaipur, Pushkar, Agra, and then back
to Delhi. This is a total cost of $470. The real cost was a maximum
of $235 for both of them. On top of that, the driver brought them
to overpriced hotels, from which he received a commission on the price
of their room. He also brought them to places to shop where they were
charged more than double the normal price for different items. As
one of the women told me, “I really thought I knew what I was
doing until all my money was gone in less than a week.” Taxi Fares from the International terminal cost about Rs 200 to Rs 250 by taxi or Rs 90 to Rs 125 by uncomfortable (for this distance) auto-rickshaw to get to Connaught Place, the Paharganj area, or the New Delhi railway station. From the Domestic Terminal, the prepaid taxi costs Rs 150 plus Rs 2 per bag. As you come out of the International airport there are three prepaid taxi stands, all charging a fixed rate based on the distance to your destination. You tell the staff your destination and the number of pieces of luggage. The first counter is for limousines (expensive), next to that is the counter for so-called luxury taxis (which means paying more for nothing extra). Outside, straight and then to your left is the lowest priced prepaid taxi stand. The Delhi Traffic Police PrePaid Taxi Booth is the cheapest. Keep your receipt and give it to the driver at your destination, not before. A tip or further payment is not required. Occasionally you can negotiate a cheaper price yourself. Go to the prepaid taxi stand to find out the standard rate, then negotiate with the taxi drivers and try to beat that price. The
taxi drivers at the Delhi airports can be incredible cheaters. It
is a good idea to write down the license number of the cab before
getting into it. Many budget hotels are closed between 12 midnight
and 6 am, so your options will be limited at this time. If
a taxi driver tells you he will take you to a place for half the fair
price or cheaper (without you bargaining for five minutes), you can
be certain he will try to cheat you. Taxi
drivers in Delhi are capable of telling you any false thing with an
honest face. Many of them believe that to lie to make money is all
right. Even if you catch them in a lie, they will not admit it but
will become offended. You may also go to a hotel and an official looking person stops you at the door of the hotel. He then tells you that the hotel is full and that most of the hotels in the area are full and that it is best for you to go with your driver to another area in town where there are plenty of hotels with rooms at very reasonable prices. You may be driving along and a policeman stops the car. The driver argues with him and then tells you he can’t take you further because there are riots and people have been killed. He then brings you to a “safe” hotel. The next morning, a travel agent appears to sell you a tour of Rajasthan and Agra. I have met several people who have experienced these things. | |||