New Delhi & Old Delhi

Population: 11 million
Phone Code: 011
Area: 1485 sq km
Literacy Rate: 77%
Best Time to Visit: October to mid-April
Main Languages: Hindi, Urdu, English & Punjabi
Religion: Hindu 84%, Muslim 8%, Sikh 6%, Christian 1%.
Altitude: 216m

Delhi is the capital and the third largest city of India. There are two parts of the city—Old Delhi, the old Muslim capital, and xe "New Delhi" New Delhi. Delhi is a Union Territory, which is independent of any state rule, similar to Washington DC.

There is the impressive Red Fort and Jami Masjid Mosque in Old Delhi. There are many other interesting sites in Delhi, including what remains of the eight great cities of Delhi.
Delhi, along with Mumbai, are the main cities in India to be used for international travel. Delhi has the closest international airport to Jaipur, Agra, and the rest of North India. It is also filled with other travel facilities, such as consulates to various countries, and government buildings.

History
Delhi is the site of Indraprastha, the ancient 5,000 years capital of the Pandavas of Mahabharata fame. It is believed that Indraprastha was located about 3km south of modern Delhi, between the tomb of Humayun and the Firoz Shah Kotla, near the Purana Qila. The Yamuna River, which used to flow near there, has since moved east from this point.

Foreigners often invaded Delhi. Tamerlane sacked the city in the 14th century, killing many of its residents. Babur came from Afghanistan in the 16th century and conquered Delhi. Nadir Shah sacked the city in 1739, and took away the Peacock Throne and the Kohinoor Diamond.

Eight major cities have been situated in the Delhi area. The first four cities were in the southern part of present-day Delhi. The Tomara Rajput dynasty founded Lal Kot in 736 AD. The Chauthan dynasty conquered Lal Kot and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora in 1180. This was the first major city of Delhi and it was situated near the Qutb Minar in south Delhi. The Rajputs were defeated by an Afghanistan army led by Muhammad Ghori.
Muhammad Ghori was murdered in 1206, and Qutb-ud-din, his Turkish general, became Delhi’s king, ruling from Lal Kot. It was he who began the construction of the Qutb Minar. Iltutmish (1211-27), his successor, expanded the construction on the Qutb Minar.

Ala-ud-din-Khalji (1296-1316) gained control of Delhi and constructed the second city of Delhi, Siri, in 1303, near present-day Hauz Khas.

Ghiyas-ud-din Tughluq became Sultan of Delhi in 1320. He built Tughlaqabad, the third city, which was located 10km southeast of the Qutb Minar. This city was occupied for only five years. Not much remains of it.

Jahanpanah, the fourth city, was built by Muhammad din Tughluq in the 14th century between Lal Kot and Siri.

The fifth city, Firozabad, is located in New Delhi. Firuz Shah, the then Sultan of Delhi, had the Ashoka pillars from Meerut and Topra moved to his city.

Timur (Tamerlane), a Turk, sacked Delhi in 1398. After this, the Sayyids (1414-50) took control of Delhi. They were replaced by the Lodi dynasty. In 1556, the governors of Sind and Punjab invited Babur, who was in Afghanistan, to aid them in defeating Ibrahim Lodi. During the battle, Lodi was killed and Babur took control of Delhi.

After his death, his son, Humayun, succeeded Babur. The Afghan Sher Shah defeated Humayun. The sixth city, Purana Qila (then called Shergarh), was established by Emperor Sher Shah in 1540. It is located near India Gate in New Delhi.

Akbar, the son of Humayun, moved the capital to Agra. The seventh city, Shahjahanabad in Old Delhi, was built by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, and the capital was moved from Agra to Delhi at this time. His impressive Red Fort is still standing and is well-preserved. Old Delhi was the capital of the Muslim Mughal emperors between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The eighth city, New Delhi, was constructed mainly by the British, beginning in 1911. At the Delhi Durbar on December 12, 1911, King George V declared that Delhi would become the new capital of India, replacing Calcutta. The city was officially declared the capital of the British Empire in India in 1931. After Independence in 1947, Delhi remained the capital.

Getting Your Bearings
Connaught Place is the center of the city, and most of the airlines offices, tourist information offices, and travel agencies are located there. It is also one of the main shopping areas in Delhi. The Government of India Tourist Office and many interesting shops are on Janpath, which runs south from Connaught Place. Several blocks north is the New Delhi railway station, which is the main railway station in town and the location of the Tourist Booking Office. Near here is Paharganj, where most of the budget hotels are located.

About twenty minutes north of Connaught Place by car is Old Delhi, where the crowded Chandni Chowk shopping area is located. The Red Fort, the long distance bus station, and the Old Delhi railway station are located here.

The Foreign embassies are mainly in the Chanakyapuri area, about a twenty-minute drive southwest of Connaught Place. Nizamuddin Train Station is southeast of Connaught Place. Further south, in southeast New Delhi, are the interesting Baha’i and ISKCON temples. The airport is a forty-minute drive southwest of the city center.
The A to Z Road Guide to Delhi has 200 pages of very detailed maps.

Tourist Offices and Information
The Government of India Tourist Office (332-0005), 88 Janpath, has information about places all over India. They also give away a good map of Delhi and India. If you ask them for information about several places in India, they may hand you a map of Delhi and tell you that it is all they have (it happened to me twice). My friend then insisted that they had more information, so after five minutes, they gave us about thirty brochures about different places. So be persistent. Open Mon to Fri 9 am to 6 pm and Sat 9 am to 2 pm.
There is a tourist counter at the international airport (329-1171). They can help with accommodations.

The India Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC), L-Block, Connaught Place, runs tours of Delhi and some other places in India. The ITDC office at Jeevan Vihar Bldg, 3rd Fl, 3 P Street, can book reservations for ITDC hotels, which usually go under the name “Ashok”.

Delhi Tourism Dev. Corp. (Delhi Tourism) has offices at N-Block, Connaught Place (331-3637); the international airport; New Delhi Railway Station; Delhi Railway Station; Inter-State Bus Terminal; and at the Coffee House on Baba Kharak Singh Marg (345-358).
Bihar (372-3371), Karnataka (336-3862), Maharashtra (336-0773), Tamil Nadu (336-4651), Assam (334-5897), West Bengal (373-2840), Orissa (336-4580), Manipur (336-4026), and Gujarat (373-2107) State Tourist Offices are on the upper floors of their respective State emporiums on Baba Kharak Singh Marg. Their entrances are located in the back of the emporiums. The Tamil Nadu and Orissa Tourist Offices are particularly helpful.

Haryana (332-4910), Himachal Pradesh (332-5320), and Uttar Pradesh (332-2251) offices are located in the Chandralok Building at 36 Janpath.

The offices for Madhya Pradesh (332-1187), Punjab (332-3055), Jammu & Kashmir (332-5373), and Kerala (331-6541) are in the Kanishka Shopping Center between the Yatri Niwas and Kanishka Hotels at 19 Ashoka Rd.

The Rajasthan Tourist Office (338-3837, 338-1884; fax 338-2823) is on Bikaner Rd by India Gate. Goa (462-9968), 18 Amrita Shergil Marg; Andhra Pradesh (381-293) 1 Ashok Rd; Andaman & Nicobar Islands Tourist Office (688-2116, 687-1443; fax 378-2642), No 12 in Chanakyapuri (opposite the cinema), is open from 3 to 5 pm; Sikkim (301-3026), Sikkim Bhavan, Chanakyapuri; Meghalaya (301-5503), 9 Aurangzeb Rd; Tripura (301-4607), Tripura Bhavan, Chanakyapuri.

There are a few good local magazines about Delhi. The weekly Delhi Diary and The Delhi City lists current events, tourist sites, exhibitions and has a map. First City also lists current events. 

Warning! There are no tourist offices across the street from the New Delhi railway station, despite what the signs say. These offices are travel agencies, many of which can be total cheaters. There is a tourist counter inside the station. This does not mean that some of the travel agents are honest, but definitely beware of anyone coming up to you that points out that the tourist office is actually across the street and tries to bring you there. Tourist office people never do this.

Guided Tours
Delhi is very spread out, so an organized tour is a relatively inexpensive way to see the city.

ITDC runs a half-day tour of New Delhi (Rs 100, 8 am to 1 pm) or Old Delhi (Rs 90, 2:15 to 7 pm). They also run a full-day tour of New Delhi and Old Delhi from 8 am to 7 pm for Rs 175. The five-hour New Delhi tour goes to the Lakshmi-Narayana Temple, the Jantar Mantar, India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, and the Qutb Minar. The Old Delhi tour goes to the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, Raj Ghat, Shanti Vana and Firoz Shah Kotla.

ITDC has a one-day tour of Agra that goes to the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, and Sikandra from 6:30 am to 10 pm for Rs 500. You can book these tours at the ITDC office at L-Block at Connaught Place near the Nirula’s Restaurant, at their counters in the airports, or at ITDC Hotels.
The Government of India Tourist Office, 88 Janpath, organizes a morning tour of New Delhi (9 am to 2 pm, Rs 90) and an afternoon tour of Old Delhi (2:15 to 5:15, Rs 90). They can also arrange a guide. American Express Travel Services, A-Block, Connaught Place, and Royal Express, 16 K G Marg, Connaught Place, both run tours of Delhi.

The Haridwar-Rishikesh tour departs 7:15 am on Wed and Sat and returns the next day at 8 pm (Rs 450). It is run by Delhi Tourism, which has many offices all over town. The main one is at N-36, Bombay Life Building, Connaught Place.

There is a one-day and two-day tour of Jaipur and a two-day tour of Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. There is also a two-day tour of Mathura, Agra, and Fatehpur Sikri.

Uttar Pradesh Tourism (332-2251), 36 Janpath, operates an overnight tour to Haridwar and Rishikesh for Rs 700.
Weather

Delhi is most comfortable between October and March. Daytime temperatures are around 22ºC (72ºF) between late November and the beginning of March. It is cold at night from December to February, with temperatures falling to 3ºC (37ºF). During May and June, it can be extremely hot with temperatures rising to 46ºC (114ºF). The rainy season is from the middle of July to the middle of September. During this time it rains every few days and does not usually rain for more than an hour or two at a time.

Travel Agencies
Aerotrek Travels (371-5966), E-1 Mercantile Building, 2nd Floor, Connaught Place, are trustworthy, have discount prices, and are relatively efficient. Two brothers run the operation. Recommended.

Tripsout Travels (332-2654; fax 332-1863), 72 Janpath, behind the India Tourist Office, are reliable but very busy, so expect to wait. I know people who have been using them for years and recommend them. They are a good discount travel agency.

Aa Bee Travels (752-0117; fax 753-2795), in the Hare Rama Guest House, Paharganj, is an honest discount ticket-seller. Competitive and recommended.

Shigeta Travels (751-9000), in the Ajay Guest House, seems trust-worthy. The owner speaks Japanese well.

Gagan Travels and Tours (751-0061; fax 753 4093), at west end of the Main Bazaar in Paharganj, has a good reputation.
ISTC Travel Office (332-4789), near the Imperial Hotel, issues International Student Cards.

More upscale are Cox & Kings (332-0067), Indra Palace, H-Block, Connaught Circus; Sita World Travels (331-1133), 4 Malcha Marg, Diplomatic Enclave; American Express, (332-4119), A-Block, Connaught Place; Y’s Tours and Travels, YMCA; Thomas Cook (332-8468), Hotel Imperial, Janpath and Rishya Mook Building, 85A Panchkuin Marg. President Travel (331-0793), Arunachal Building, 19 Barakhamba Rd, is efficient. Wanderlust (687-5200; 688-5188), M51/52 Palika Bhawan, opposite Hyatt Regency is efficient.

Peak Adventure Tours (643-3294), 29A, Kailash Colony, and Snow Lion Expeditions (552-4389; 553-0153) 512-B Kirti Shikher Janak Puri, are foreign run and very efficient.

Medical and Dental
The East West Medical Centre (699-229), has temporarily moved to Greater Kailash 1, B28, and is a recommended place. They charge higher prices than normal for India. A Sikh doctor and his Irish wife run it. Also good is the All India

Institute of Medical Sciences (661-123), at Ansari Nagar, and the Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital (345-525), Baba Kharak Singh Marg.

Apollo Hospital, Mathura Rd, on the border of southeast Delhi, is a new, modern hospital, which has some of the best doctors in India. Recommended, but expensive.

In Paharganj is Dr Sharwan Gupta’s Care Clinic and Laboratory (751-7841; Home 623-3088), 1468 Sangatrashan, Paharganj, two blocks north of the west end of Main Bazaar. The clinic is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 7:30 pm and Sun 10 am to 1 pm.

Also in Paharganj, Dr BS Pancholi’s Clinic Dr. B.S. Pancholi Clinic,555 gali Chandi Wali,
Mantola ADJ Hotel Namaskar Phone No.:-
9810344345, 23584089, 9810427423. is supposed to be good. Clinic has daycare, vaccinations, lab facilites. The doctor has over 20 yeas experience in travel medicine.

Bhandari Homeopathic Store (373-2450), 43-44 Municipal Market, opposite the York Hotel, Connaught Circus, has an excellent selection of German, Swiss, and Indian-made homeopathic medicines.

The Tibetan Clinic (Men-Tsee-Khang-Exports) (621-2604) is located at 13 Jaipur Estate, Nizamuddin East, New Delhi. They treat people by a natural herbal method and have been recommended to me by several people. To get there, ask to go to Jaipur Estate, which is near the Nizamuddin railway station, in southeast New Delhi.

Renoo and Nalin Nirula (611-3990, 688-5990; fax 688-0474), A-14 Anand Niketan, New Delhi, are consisted to be some of the best Rieki Masters in the world. Beside treatment, they also offer courses.

Some doctors recommended by the US Embassy are: Dr Chawla (462-1684), 37 Prithviraj Rd; Dr KP Jain (644-3615), C036 South Extension (Clinic: 16 Daryaganj); and Dr Harish Khasla (629-544), 166 Jor Bagh.

The Delhi Dental Centre (644-4918, 644-2398), C-565 Extension II, has been recommended to me as a good place to have dental work done. It is best to call for an appointment. Dr Chopra is supposed to be good. DR SP Aggarwal (619-7777), R-4A Green Park Extension, is a good dentist. Open Tue to Sat 10 am to 1 pm and 4 to 7 pm.

Lawrence & Mayo, 76 Janpath, and Bon-Ton Opticians, 13 Janpath Market have good glasses and sunglasses. Medikos Opticians, 1588 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, does eye tests and makes up glasses quickly. A recommended economical place to get glasses is Eastern Optical Corporation (331-3907), 15 Shankar Market.
Ambulance: 102.

Dr Triguna
Dr Triguna (461-1221) is an excellent Ayurvedic doctor, one of the best in India. His office is by the Nizamuddin railway station in southeastern Delhi. He personally helped me when I was extremely sick. Highly recommended. Dr Chopra in one of his books highly recommended Dr Triguna.

To find his office, you go to the Nizamuddin railway station. As you walk out the door, turn left and take a rickshaw or walk about half a km. When you come to the Y-intersection, take the left fork past some vegetable stands, which brings you over the train tracks. After the train tracks, walk about 50 m (165 ft) and turn right at the intersection. His office is at the end of the road, a minute away. Open 9.30 am to 1 pm. Closed Mondays and sometimes he is not there for a week or two.

Post, Phone and Shipping
The GPO is on Baba Kharak Singh Marg, a ten-minute walk from Connaught Place. Poste restante can now be collected at the main post office at the roundabout (circle) on Baba Kharak Singh Marg. Poste restante mail can be received at the Foreign Post Office on Bhai Vir Singh Marg (Market Rd.). It is around the back and up the stairs. Letters with just “Delhi” on them will go to the Old Delhi post office and not this one, as this is the New Delhi post office. The New Delhi post office is more convenient for most people. There is a post office at 9 A-Block, Connaught Place. There is a man out front who makes parcel packages.

Express couriers: Overnight Express (open 24 hours) and Blue Dart (332-4511), both have offices in the Kanishka Shopping Plaza, next to the Ashok Yatri Niwas Hotel. DHL (686-7090), 11 Ashirwad, D-1, Green Park, is efficient at shipping packages out of India.

Belair Travel and Cargo (331-3985), 10-B Scindia House, ships heavy baggage overseas. Sham Store (738-945), Main Bazaar across from Galaxy Guest House has an export license and can ship goods overseas. Parcel Packing Service (777-8298), T-298 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, next to the Hare Rama Guest House, is a reliable shipper. They can package and send parcels home for you. I have used them myself.

Recommended. Parcel Packing and Cargo Service (738-945), 5068 Main Bazaar, Paharganj, is a reliable shipper.
You can make credit card and collect (reverse charge) calls using the Home Country Direct service at the government-run Videsh Sanchar Bhavan (VSNL) communication office, Bangla Sahib Rd. You can make free callbacks at the Hotel Anoop, Hare Ram Guest House, and Ajay Guest House in Paharganj. 

Internet
There are many cheap places to access the Internet in Paharganj, some for as cheap as Rs 20 per hour. The Hotel Downtown has good connections. The places in Connaught Place usually charge Rs 40 per hour or more.  One of the best places to send e-mail in Paharganj is at Ankush Guest House, opposite Hare Rama Guest House, which charges Rs 30 per hour and has 10 computers.

The Roye Business Centre, down a side street behind the Kwality Restaurant in Connaught Place has email service for around Rs 20 for 10 minutes or Rs 100 for one hour. Cybercafe, N-Block, is an e-mail place open 9.30 am to 8.30 pm. Calculus Cyber Center (373-4007), above Khadi Gramdyog, near Regal Cinema, has web service for Rs 100 per hour and Rs 60 per half-hour.

Money
American Express (332-4119; fax 332-1706), A-Block, Connaught Place, changes money quickly and efficiently. They charge a 1% commission to change other brands of travelers cheques than their own. Through them you can also have money wired from overseas, which takes 24 hours. The charge is about 8%. Open 9 am to 7 pm.

Thomas Cook (332-7135; fax 371-5685), in the Imperial Hotel on Janpath, and at C-Block in Connaught Place (335-6575; fax 335-6580) changes money efficiently. They have a branch at the International Airport and at Nehru Place.

The Bank of Baroda (332-8230), Sansad Marg, give cash advances on Visa and MasterCard.

The places in the Main Bazaar in Paharganj usually give good rates of exchange and change money quickly. There are several places that change money in the bazaar. Ankur Guest House, across from the Hare Rama Guest House, changes money efficiently at good rates.

Baluja Exports (753-2419), 4596 Main Bazaar, in Paharganj, changes money quickly and efficiently at the current bank rate, and they do not take a commission. They are recommended if you are staying in Paharganj.

Banks: State Bank of India, Sansad Marg; State Bank of India, 250m from the east end of Chandni Chowk; Bank of America (372-2332) Hansalaya Building, 15 Barakhamba Rd; Citibank (371-2484), Jeevan Bharati Building, Connaught Place; ANZ Grindlays (372-1242), H-10 Connaught Place; Banque Nationnale de Paris (331-3883), 15 Barakhamba Rd; and Hong Kong Bank (331-4355), 28 Kasturba Gandhi Marg. Banks are usually open 10 am to 2 pm Mon to Fri and from 10 am to noon on Sat. The international banks are usually located near Connaught Place.

Changing money at the State Bank of India can take more than an hour. The money changing facilities at the Ashok Hotel are open 24 hours a day.

There are many ATM machine at banks in the Connaught Place area. The Citibank Machine (Cirrus system), a few blocks from Connaught Place on Barakhamba Rd, has closed.  
You can withdraw money with a bank card (ATM) or credit card at Citibank, at the south side of Connaught Place, or from the Citibank Machine (Cirrus system), a few blocks from Connaught Place on Barakhamba Rd. You can take out up to Rs 12,000 in a day. Bank of America, 15 Barakhamba Rd, has a 24-hour ATM machine.

Visa Extension & Special Permits
Visa extensions are issued at the Foreigners’ Registration Office (331-9489), Hans Bhavan, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, near the Tilak Bridge Railway Station. You need four photos for visa renewal. There is a photographer outside the building to do this. They can issue up to fifteen-day extensions if you have a good reason. They have a sign that says it is impossible to extend a three-month or six-month tourist visa. If you have a six-month visa, it is unlikely you will get an extension unless you are having a problem getting a flight out of India, but some people do get them. You can also get permits here for restricted areas such as Arunachal Pradesh. Open weekdays 9:30 am to 1:30 pm and 2 to 4 pm.

If you need a longer extension than 15 days, you must first get authorization from the Ministry of Home Affairs at Khan Market (open 10 am to noon, not a minute later). You then take the form to the Foreigners’ Registration Office. If the visa extension is given, you return to the Home Office, which is where the visa itself will be issued. The men working in this office are really intelligent, so it does not pay to come up with a too extreme bogus story or try to fool them (don’t make a fool out of them). If you have overstayed your visa by a few day, expect to be chastised and ask for forgiveness politely. Tourist are expected to be a bit spaced out. I found them to be reasonable if you are straightforward with them (even if you are making up a story).

A tax clearance certificate is issued around the corner from Hans Bhavan at the Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department (331-7826) in the Central Revenue Building on Vikas Marg. You have to bring exchange certificates with you to show that you changed money legally and did not work in India. The office is closed from 1 to 2 pm.
Some areas are restricted for travel in India. You can apply for permits at Indian embassies overseas. Usually the Ministry of Home Affairs (694-828), Lok Nayak Bhawan, Khan Market, issues the permits to travel to prohibited areas.

Libraries and Cultural Centers
The British Council Library (371-0111), 17 Kasturba Gandhi Marg, has a good selection of books, but you must become a member to enter (Tues to Sat 10 am to 6 pm). The American Center (331-6841), 24 Kasturba Gandhi Marg has a large selection of books (9:30 am to 6 pm). Alliance Francaise (644-9103), D-13 South Extension Part III; Italy (644-9193), Golf Link Rd; Japan (332-9803), 32 Firozshah Rd; Russia (332-9102), 24 Firozshah Rd.

Photography
Mahatta & Co (332-9769), across the street from Nirula’s on M-Block, is a recommended professional camera store. For developing film their prices are above average, but they do one of the best jobs in India. Also very good is Kinsey Brothers, 2 A-Block, Connaught Circus. The Delhi Photo Company, 78 Janpath, by the tourist office, does a good job of processing film quickly. These three places are probably the best in India.

Motorcycle Shops
There are many motorcycle shops in the Karol Bagh area. Essaar, Jhandi Walan Extension, Karol Bagh, sells new Enfields. For a used bike, there is Madaan Motors and Inder Motors (572-8579) in Karol Bagh. Nanna Motors (335-5169), 112 Press Rd, is a good place to contact if you are looking for an Enfield.

Foreign Embassies
Most embassies are open Mon to Fri 9 am to noon. It usually takes at least twenty-four hours to get a visa. If you are going to an embassy for a visa, you should bring passport photos with you.

Australia
1/50G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (688-8223; fax 688-8232)
Austria
EP-13 Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri (601-238; fax 688-6929)
Bangladesh
56 Ring Rd, Lajpat Nagar III (683-4668; fax 683-9237)
Belgium
50-N Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (608-295; fax 688-5821)
Bhutan
Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri (609-217; fax 687-6710)
Brazil
8 Aurangzeb Road (301-7301)
Canada 7-8 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (687-6500; fax 687-0031)
China
50-D Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (600-328; fax 688-5486)
Czech
50-M Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri (611-0205)
Denmark
11 Aurangzeb Rd. (310-0900; fax 301-0961)
Finland
E-3 Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (611-5258; fax 688-6713)
France
2/50-E Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (611-8790; fax 687-2305)
Germany
6/50-G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (688-9144; fax 687-3117)
Guyana
85 Poorvi Marg, Vasant Vihar (674-194)
Hungary
2/50-M Niti Marg, Chanakyapuri (611-4737)
Indonesia
50-A Chanakyapuri (602-352)
Iran
5 Barakhamba Rd. (332-9600)
Ireland
230 Jor Bagh Rd (011 462-6733/6714; fax: 469-7053; email: ireland@ndf.vsnl.net.in)
Israel
3 Aurangzeb Road (301-3238; fax 301-4298)
Italy
50-E Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri (611-4355; fax 687-3889)
Japan
50-G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (687-6581)
Kenya
E66 Vasant Marg, Vasant Vihar (687-6538)
Malaysia
50-M Satya Marg, Chanakyapuri (011 611-1291/2/3; fax 688-1536) 
Mauritius
5 Kautilya Marg (301-1112)
Mexico
10 Jor Bagh (469-7991)
Myanmar (Burma)
3/50-F Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (600-251; fax 687-7942)
Nepal
Barakhamba Rd. (332-8191; fax 332-6857)
The Netherlands
6/50-F Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (688-4951; fax 687-4856)
New Zealand
50-N Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (688-3170; fax 687-2317)
Norway
50-C Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (687-3532; fax 687-3814)
Pakistan
2/50-G Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (600-601; fax 637-2339)
Poland
50-M Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (608-321)
Russia
Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (606-026)
Singapore
E-6 Chandrapupta, Chanakyapuri (688-5659)
South Africa
B-18 Vasant Marg, Vasant Vihar (611-9411)
Spain
12 Prithiviraj Rd. (379-2085; fax 379-3375)
Sri Lanka
27 Kautilya Marg, Chanakyapuri (301-0201, 301-0203; fax 301-5295)
Sweden
Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (687-5760; fax 688-5401)
Switzerland
Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (604-225; fax 687-3093)
Thailand
56-N Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri (605-679; fax 687-2029)
Trinidad & Tobago
131 Jor Bagh (461-8187)
UAE
EP-12 Chandragupta Marg, Chanakyapuri (011 687-2937) 
Ukraine
176 Jor Bagh (461-6086)
United Kingdom
50 Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (687-2161; fax 687-2882)
USA
Shantipath, Chanakyapuri (600-651)

Old Delhi
Old Delhi is the seventh major city in Delhi, called Shah Jahanabad. Shah Jahan (1628-1658) built it. Much of the building materials for the city were taken from the old cities of Shergarh and Firozabad. The main street is Chandni Chowk, which in the past had a tree-lined canal running down the middle. The city was laid out in blocks and had wide streets. Within the city Shah Jahan built the Red Fort.

The main sites to see are the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid mosque, and the markets in the Chandni Chowk area.

At the north end of what is left of the old city of Shah Jahanabad is Kashmiri Gate. Across from the gate is the Interstate bus terminal. Across from the bus station is the Qudsia Gardens, which were built in 1748 by the wife of the Mughal emperor, Muhammad Shah. West of the gate is an Ashok Pillar, which was brought to this spot by Firoz Shah Tughlaq. Near the pillar is the Mutiny Memorial, which honors the British soldiers who died in the Uprising of 1857. From here there are good views of the city. North of the Old Delhi Post Office, before Kashmiri Gate, is St James’ Church (1836). Colonel James Skinner built it.

Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in India and was built between 1644 and 1656 by Shah Jahan. It was built on a high platform on a low hill which helps to add to its impressiveness. It is a kilometre southwest of the entrance to the Red Fort. The mosque can hold up to 25,000 worshipers, and the courtyard is 900 square metres. It took 5,000 workers twelve years to build. There are three large gateways. The largest, the eastern entrance, was opened only for the Mughal emperor and his family. It is now opened to worshipers only on Friday and on Muslim festival days. The mosque has two 40m high minarets. Tourists are expected to enter through the north gate. You leave your shoes with the shoe guard.

Prayers are chanted by a priest from the platform under the center arch in the most western part of the mosque. Before amplification, the small post between here and the east gate is where a priest would repeat the prayers so those in the back could hear. On the floor of the mosque, each rectangle designates the space that is used by a worshiper while offering prayers. In the center of the courtyard is a hauz (water tank), used to clean the hands and feet before worshiping. On the east side of the mosque there are lines that mark where one mourns the dead. The symmetrical patterns on the arches represent the lotus flower.
In the northeast corner is a shrine where artifacts of Muhammad are displayed. Visitors can view these artifacts for a donation. The collection contains a red beard-hair of Muhammad’s, his sandals, and his footprint embedded in marble. There is also part of the Koran, which was written on deerskin by one of his relatives.

You can climb the south minaret (tower) and get a good view of the city (Rs 5, camera Rs 10). From there you can get a great view of Old Delhi, the Red Fort, and New Delhi to the south. Caution: women, especially if alone, should beware of men trying to touch them on the dark stairway.

Priests’ homes are to the west of the mosque. Priests have lived here since the time of Shah Jahan.

The mosque is open for tourists from thirty minutes after dawn until 12:20 pm (noon on Fri), 1:45 pm until twenty minutes before azan, the call for prayer, and then from after the prayer until twenty minutes before sunset. Entry fee Rs 10, camera Rs 10; lungi to wrap around bare legs Rs 5-10.

Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk is the very crowded shopping area in Old Delhi, which is a good place to buy almost anything and to feel the atmosphere of the old city. There are jewelers, clothing and textile shops, sweets sellers, etc. Harmoniums and other musical instruments are also available in Chandni Chowk. Most shops are closed on Sundays. Dariba Kalan (Silver St) is famous for jewelry, and Kinari Wali Gulli has marriage accessories.

Near the beginning of Chandni Chowk, opposite the entrance to the Red Fort, is the Digambara Jain Temple. It was built in the 17th century, but over the years many additions have been made. It contains intricate carvings and is dedicated to the twenty-third tirthankara, Parshvanath. The Jain Bird Hospital is located in the temple courtyard, treating up to fifty birds a day. Open October to March from 6 am to 1 pm and 6 to 7 pm; April to September from 5:30 am to 12:30 pm and 7 to 8 pm.

West of the Jain Temple is the Gauri Shankar Temple, which contains an 800-year-old Siva-linga. Next to the linga are deities of Gauri (Parvati) and Shankar (Siva).

Sunehri Masjid is a few blocks west of the Jain Temple. Nadir Shah, who sacked Delhi in 1739, is said to have watched from the roof of the mosque while his soldiers slaughtered thousands of the residents of Delhi.

Sisganj Gurudwara, near the police station in the middle of Chandni Chowk, marks the place where Aurangzeb beheaded Guru Teg Bahadur in 1675, after the Sikh guru refused to convert to Islam.

Fathpuri Mosque, at the west end of Chandni Chowk, was built in 1650 by one of Shah Jahan’s wives.

Old Delhi: 10 Easy Walks by Gaynor Barton and Lauraine Malone, published by Rupa and Co, is a good guide book of the area.

Coronation Durbar Site
This is a field north of Old Delhi where durbars were held in 1877 and 1903. At this place in 1911, King George V was declared the emperor of India. There is a statue of King George here, which used to be located on Rajpath, between India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan. There are also statues of other British personalities which used to be located in various other places in Delhi.

Raj Ghat
Raj Ghat is a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi. This is his cremation site. A black marble platform and a perpetually burning flame mark the spot. Inscribed on the monument are Gandhi’s last words, “He Rama” (“Oh Rama”—Rama is a name of God). His own name is not inscribed on the monument. There is a commemorative ceremony every Friday, the day he was killed and on the anniversaries of his birth (Oct 2) and death (Jan 30). The Gandhi Memorial Museum is also located here, which contains the gun with which Gandhi was shot and a picture exhibit. The museum is open daily except Mon 9:30 am to 5:30 pm. A film about Gandhi is shown on Sunday in English at 7 pm (5 pm in winter) and Hindi at 6 pm (4 pm in winter).

There is a museum at Birla House, Tees January Marg, near the Claridges Hotel. It is the site of Gandhi’s assassination.

Raj Ghat is close to the west bank of the Yamuna River, about 2km southeast of the Red Fort and 1km east of Delhi Gate.

Just south of the monument is a park containing trees and flowers planted by different dignitaries—Eisenhower planted gladiolas, Queen Elizabeth II planted a pine tree, and Nasser from Egypt planted a slanted tree.

A little north is Shanti Vana (“Forest of Peace”), which is the cremation site of Jawaharlal Nehru, India’s first Prime Minister. His daughter Indira Gandhi was cremated here in 1984, as were her sons Sanjay in 1980 and Rajiv in 1991. A little further north is Vijay Ghat (“Victory Ghat”), which is where Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri was cremated in 1965.

Firoz Shah Kotla
Firoz Shah Kotla are the ruins of Firozabad, the fifth city of Delhi, built by Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351-88) in 1354. There is not much left of the city because most of it was dismantled for building materials to construct the next city. Located here is a 14m high, polished sandstone Ashoka pillar (3rd century BC), with Ashoka edicts inscribed on it. Firoz Shah had it brought from Topra in Haryana, 100km away, to here.

There are also the ruins of the palace of Firoz Shah Kotla, a huge old ruined mosque, and a circular baoli (step-well). Firozabad is between new and old Delhi, near Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, 500m east of Delhi Gate. Not many people visit here.

New Delhi

Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s Residence)
Rashtrapati Bhavan was designed by the famous architect Edwin Lutyens to be the residence of the Viceroy. It was finished in 1929 and now serves as the residence of India’s President. Tourists are not permitted to enter, but they are permitted to climb the nearby Raisina Hill to get a closer look of the place. The residence has a large copper dome and large pillars. The architecture is interesting. It has a large Mughal garden, which is open to the public only in February. In 1947, over 400 workers were hired as gardeners.

There is a 145m pillar between the residence and the gate, donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur. It is called the Jaipur Column and is topped by a bronze lotus and a six pointed star, which was at one time the shape of the Star of India (it now has just five points).

Rashtrapati Bhavan is located south of Connaught Place, at the other end of Rajpath from India Gate. On Saturday (10 to 10:30 am) there is a parade of the guards, which resembles the changing of the guard in London.

Rajpath runs east to west, with India Gate at one end and Rashtrapati Bhavan at the other. The Republic Day Parade is held on this street each year on January 26.

Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House) & the Secretariat Buildings
Sansad Bhavan is where the India Parliament, the Lok Sabha, meets. It is located north of Rajpath, at the end of Sansad Marg (Parliament St). Visitors can obtain permits at the reception office on Raisina Road for the public gallery while the parliament is in session. To obtain a permit, visitors first need a letter of introduction from their embassies. The building also contains a library of books on political history. The library once served as a meeting place for the heads of kingdoms until Independence. The library can be visited when parliament is not in session.

Opposite Sansad Bhavan is the 20th century white marble Rakabganj Gurudwara. This is where the body of the Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur was cremated after Aurangzeb beheaded him. To the north of Sansad Bhavan is the Church of the Sacred Heart (1934). The Cathedral Church of the Redemption (1935) is a design-winning church.

The Secretariat buildings are on either side of Raisina Hill. All the important government ministries are located here, including the Home, Foreign Affairs, and Finance Ministries. They are longs buildings with domes on top of them.

India Gate
India Gate is a large 42m high stone arch located east of Rashtrapati Bhavan and about 2km south of Connaught Place. It was built as a memorial to the over 80,000 Indian soldiers killed during World War I and the Afghan War of 1919. There is a memorial beneath the arch commemorating the soldiers killed in the 1971 war with Pakistan. The road between India Gate and Raisina Hill is called Rajpath. This is where the huge Republic Day Parade is held in January. Near the arch is a cupola, which at one time contained the statue of King George V. It has been removed and taken to a secluded place in north Delhi.

Connaught Place
This is a massive traffic circle in the middle of New Delhi where most of the banks, airlines, travel agencies, and other important offices and shops are located. All the blocks are assigned letters, so if you need to find a place at Connaught Place, find out on which block the business is situated (i.e., A-Block or D-Block). It is an interesting place in which to walk around and shop. In 1995, the inner circle was named Rajiv Chowk and the outer circle Indira Chowk, but the entire area is generally known as Connaught Place. The shoeshine men here do a good job at repairing shoes.

WARNING Be careful of the shoeshine men who throw muck on your shoes as you walk by and then point it out to you with an offer to clean it. While they are cleaning your shoes, they may even damage them and then offer to repair them at a hefty price. Be careful of the ear cleaners, because they often cause damage to the ears that they clean.

Lakshmi Narayana Birla Temple
This beautiful white marble Vishnu temple was designed in the Orissan style. It was built by Raja Baldeo Birla in 1938 and is a popular site. The temple is dedicated to Narayana (Vishnu) and Lakshmi, the Goddess of Fortune. There are two side altars with deities of Siva and Durga. There is also a beautiful room covered with mirrors and colored stones containing a deity of Krishna. A Chinese Buddhist Brethren Bell and Japanese Drum were donated to the temple. It is located about 2km west of Connaught Place.

Jantar Mantar
Jantar Mantar, 15km southwest of Connaught Place on Sansad Marg (Parliament St), has a collection of large astronomical instruments. Maharaja Jai Singh of Jaipur built it in 1725. It has a massive sundial and other instruments by which to chart the stars and predict eclipses. It is slightly smaller than the Jantar Mantar in Jaipur. Open daily 9 am to sunset; admission Rs 0.50.

Museums

National Museum
This large, interesting museum is definitely worth visiting. It is one of the best museums in India. This museum (301-9538) has an excellent collection of old deities and ancient sculptures dating back to the Mauryan period (3rd century BC). There are sculptures dating from the Pallava period, Chalukya period (Badami and Aihole), the Vijayanagar period in South India, and other periods. There are also sculptures from the Konark Temple. There is an Indian Bronze Gallery with a famous Kaliya Mardan deity.

The museum has a good collection of terra-cottas, dating back to the fifth century. There are also ancient paintings showing Krishna’s pastimes. The museum has a collection of rare and precious antique jewelry. There is a weapon collection, musical instruments, and intricately carved wooden doors. There is a collection of Arabic and Persian manuscripts which include the handwritten writings of Emperor Jahangir.

The museum is located on Janpath, just south of Rajpath. Open daily except Mon and government holidays from 10 am to 5 pm; admission Rs 0.50. Guided tours are offered at 10:30 am, 11:30 am and 2 pm. There is a film shown at 2:30 pm.

Archaeological Survey of India
This place is located next to the National Museum on Janpath, just south of Rajpath. It has authoritative maps and guides of major archaeological sites in India. It is not possible to obtain some of these publications at the sites themselves, as they are often sold out.

Nehru Memorial Museum and Planetarium
This museum (301-6734) is in Teen Murti Bhavan, on Teen Murti Rd, north of Chanakyapuri. The museum is located in the building, which once belonged to Jawaharlal Nehru’s, India’s first Prime Minister. You can look at his office, study, and bathroom. There are many pictures of Nehru as a youth and as a political leader. There is a newspaper and picture exhibit which takes one through India’s effort to gain independence.

It was originally built in 1930 to be used by the British Commander in Chief. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 4:45 pm. There is a Son et Lumiere (Sound and Light Show) at 6 pm in Hindi and 7:15 pm in English.

The Nehru Planetarium is located next to the Nehru Museum. Open daily except Mon, shows at 11 am and 3 pm; admission Rs 5.

National Rail Transport Museum
There are 26 locomotives and 7 carriages located here. Especially interesting are the gold-painted car of the Maharaja of Baroda (1886), the cabin used by the Prince of Wales in 1876, and the Maharaja of Mysore’s teakwood car. There is a museum inside which contains the steam engine that made the first trip from Mumbai to Thana in 1855, models of famous engines, and the skull of an elephant that was hit by a train in 1894. There is also a library here. The first-class cars in the older train were much more comfortable than their counterparts today. You can take a ride on the “Joy Train,” a miniature train.

The museum is located in the Chanakyapuri area near the embassies, at Shantipath and Nyaya Marg. Open daily except Mon 9:30 am to 5:30 pm; admission Rs 5, cameras Rs 10.
Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum

This is the former residence of Indira Gandhi, located at 1 Safdarjung Rd. Some of her personal belongings are on exhibit, including the bloodstained sari she was wearing when she was assassinated in December 1984. There is a collection of press clippings, letters, and photos in reference to her. There is also a crystal plaque in the garden marking the place where her two Sikh bodyguards shot her. Open daily except Mon 9:30 am to 5 pm; admission free.
National Gallery of Modern Art

This museum contains a collection of art painted in India over the last 150 years. The highlight of the collection are the paintings done by Bengali artists at the beginning of this century, such as Nandalal Bose, Rabindranath Tagore, Abanendranath Tagore, and Jamini Roy. There is a good collection of art books in the Art Reference Library.

This museum (338-2835) is located in the Jaipur House, near India Gate. It used to be the Delhi home of the Maharaja of Jaipur. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm; admission free.

Crafts Museum
This museum contains exhibits of traditional crafts made of wood, metal, ceramics, and textiles. It is located in the Pragati Maidan Exhibition Grounds on Mathura Rd. The museum is part of a rural village complex. There are over 20,000 craft items on display here, some in mud huts decorated with beautiful folk art. There is a good collection of 18th-20th centuries wood carvings, paintings, textiles, and embroidery. In front of one of the buildings is a temple cart, and there is a two-storey, highly decorated, Gujarati-style haveli. There are live demonstrations of artists making their crafts. There is a good museum shop where you can purchase rugs, shawls, and other handicrafts. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm; admission free.

National Police Museum
A one-room exhibit containing gruesome pictures, weapons, counterfeiter equipment, and other interesting criminal paraphernalia. It is located at the Central Bureau of Investigation (CBI), in Block 4 of the CGO complex, Lodi Rd (436-0334). Open Mon to Fri 10 am to 5:50; free.

Other Museums
The Museum of Natural History, Barakhamba Rd, contains fossils and stuffed animals and birds. Open daily except Mon 10 am to 5 pm.
At the Tibet House there is a small but interesting museum displaying a collection of Tibetan art. There is also a Tibetan craft shop here. It is located in the Institutional Area, Lodi Rd. Open weekdays 9:30 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm; admission Rs 1.

The National Philatelic Museum is located in the post office on Sansad Marg (Parliament St). There is a large collection of rare stamps here, including stamps issued by the Princely States before Independence. Visitors can obtain an entry pass in the post office’s basement. Commemorative stamps are available for purchase. Open weekdays 9:30 am to 12:30 pm and 2:30 to 4:30 pm.

The Air Force Museum at the International Airport has a collection of old planes, and an exhibit showing the history of the Indian Air Force. Open daily except Tues 10 am to 1:30 pm.

Sangeet Natak Akademi (338-7246), Rabindra Bhavan, is the main institution for music (sangeet) and dance (natak) in India. It has a good collection of musical instruments, costumes, and masks. There is also a library containing rare books. It has a large collection of films and photographs. Open Mon through Fri 9:30 am to 6 pm; admission free.

Shankar’s International Doll Museum, B Shah Zafar Marg, has an interesting collection of over 6,000 dolls. It is open 10 am to 6 pm; admission Rs 1.

South Delhi

Purana Qila (Old Fort)
This 16th century fort has massive walls, three huge gateways, a mosque, and a library. It is said to be the site of Indraprastha, the Pandavas’ capital, the heroes of the Mahabharata. Archaeologists have found old Gray Ware pottery at this site.

Purana Qila is the sixth city of Delhi and was built by the Afghan, Sher Shah (1538-45), after he defeated Humayun. The main gate is called Bara Darwaza (Great Gate), the south gate is called Humayun Darwaza, and the north gate is called Talaqi Darwaza (Forbidden Gate).

The Qila-i-Kuhna Masjid (Old Fort Mosque) was built by Sher Shah from red sandstone in 1541. The mosque is well-maintained. Sher Mandal is a red sandstone octagonal building, which Humayun used as a library. It is said that Humayun received a fatal injury when he tripped while coming down the stairs of the Sher Mandal.

There is a small archaeological museum inside the main gate, which has some of the items discovered in and around Purana Qila. Signs say you cannot climb the walls of the fort, but visitors may ask permission of the guards and get a good view of New Delhi. Purana Qila is just off Mathura Rd, about 1km southeast of India Gate, and 4km southeast of Connaught Place. Open daily from dawn to 6:30 pm; admission Rs 0.50.
Khairul Manzil Masjid, on the other side of Mathura Rd, was built by Maham Anga, the wet-nurse of Akbar.

National Zoological Park
This zoo has on display three rare white tigers and many other animals. It is located next to Purana Qila. The zoo is popular with the locals on weekends. The zoo is spread out and some people rent golf carts to get around. Open daily except Fri, summer 8 am to 6 pm, winter 9 am to 5 pm; admission Rs 3.

Humayun’s Tomb
Humayun’s Tomb, constructed of white and black marble and red sandstone is one of the grandest buildings in India. It is located half a km north of Nizamuddin railway station and 2km south of Purana Qila, just off Mathura Rd. The tomb is in the center of a well laid-out garden, including palm trees, pathways, and waterways.

Humayun ruled India from 1530 until 1540, when Sher Shah defeated him. At that time he went into exile and returned in 1555 to reclaim the throne of Delhi. He died a year later. It is said that he was walking down the stairs of his library and heard the call to prayer. He immediately sat down on the nearest step to pray. After rising, he tripped and fell down the stairs. The injuries he received caused his death.

Nine years after he died, in 1565, Hamida (Haji) Begam, his eldest widow and mother of his son Akbar, began the construction of his tomb. Haji Begam was also buried here. The tomb is built on top of a huge base and is octagonal. It has double domes which rise almost 40m above the base. The tomb has high arches and beautiful marble lattice screens.

Bahadur Shah II, the last Mughal emperor, is also buried here. He was captured here by the British during the 1857 Uprising.

Barber’s Tomb is southeast of Humayun’s tomb. Outside the walls that surround Humayun’s Tomb is Nila Gumbad (Blue Dome), which is an octagonal tomb with a dome covered with blue tiles. It is not known for whom it was built, but it is believed to have been built before 1625.

Near the entrance of the Halima’s Garden is the Tomb of Isa Khan, one of Sher Shah’s nobleman.

Humayun’s Tomb is open daily, dawn to sunset; admission Rs 0.50, video camera Rs 25.

Hazrat Nizamuddin’s Tomb
Near Humayun’s Tomb is the shrine and tomb of the Muslim Sufi saint, Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia (1236-1325), the fourth Chishti saint. He died at the age of 92. The tomb’s construction began the year he died, but there have been several renovations over the years, the last in 1526. It has a white marble dome, and inside there are lattice screens and arches. There is a large tank next to the tomb.

To the west is the Jama-at Khana Masjid, a red sandstone mosque built in 1325 by Khizr Khan, the son of Ala-ud-din-Khalji.
Nizamuddin’s disciple, Amir Khusrau, has a tomb located in front of his mentor’s. He is a well-known Urdu poet and founder of khyal, a common type of North Indian classical music.

South of the main tomb, next to Khusrau’s tomb, is the Tomb of Jahanara, the daughter of Shah Jahan. She asked that her grave be covered with nothing but grass, so there is no dome or other structure over the tomb. When her father was imprisoned in the Agra Fort, she stayed with him. The Tomb of Atgah Khan is also here. He was dear to Humayun and his son, Akbar. He was killed by Adham Khan in Agra. Akbar then had Adham Khan killed.

Often in the evenings (5-7 pm), especially on Thursdays and Muslim holidays, qawwali singers perform evening prayers. There are two major Urs (fairs) each year in honor of the anniversaries of Nizamuddin Aulia and Amir Khusrau’s death. Before entering the tombs, you should cover your head with a hat or handkerchief. This place is near the Nizamuddin Railway Station, just off Mathura Rd. The #454 bus, which travels between Paharganj and Nizamuddin via Palika Bazaar, stops here.

Lodi Gardens
This nice park contains several ancient buildings dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Also located here is the octagonal-shaped Sikandar Lodi’s Tomb (1517). You can climb onto the walls of the tomb and get a good view of the park. About 300m south is Bara Gumbad Mosque, and 100m east is the 16th century Athpula Bridge.

In the center of the Gardens is the 15th century Bara Gumbad (Large Dome), a square tomb with a massive dome. It is made of red, gray, and black stones. The tomb has painted stucco work in the interior. It is not known who is buried here. There is a mosque connected to the tomb, which was built in 1494. It is inscribed with texts from the Koran, colored tiles, and floral patterns.

A little north of Bara Gumbad is Shish Gumbad (Glazed Dome), built in the early 16th century. It was covered with blue tiles, but now many of them are gone. The Tomb of Muhammad Shah (1434-44), built in the mid-15th century, is about 400m south of Bara Gumbad. It has a high dome.

Muhammad Shah was the third Sayyid ruler.
Lodi Gardens is located in south Delhi, about 3km west of Humayun’s tomb and 1km south of the Purana Qila.

Safdarjang’s Tomb
This is an impressive building made of marble and red sandstone. It was constructed between 1754 and 1774 by the Nawab of Avadh, Shuja-ud-Daulah, for his father Mirza Mukhim Abdul, whose title was Safdarjang. It is built on a large platform and surrounded by a large garden. Located at the east end of Lodi Rd, close to Safdarjang Airport, 5km south of Connaught Place, the tomb is open from dawn to sunset. Admission Rs 0.50, free on Fridays.

The battlefield where Timur defeated Mahmud Shah Tughluq in 1398 is just south of here.

Hauz Khas
Hauz Khas is located in south-central Delhi, 12km south of Connaught Place. Located here is a classy, interesting shopping and restaurant area. Near the shopping area are the ruins of the large reservoir tank, used in the 14th century to supply water to the city of Siri, the second city of Delhi.

Also located here is Firoz Shah’s Tomb (1398). West and north of the tomb are the ruins of some multi-storey buildings— all that is left of an old college built by Firoz Shah in 1354. The ruins of the Idgah Mosque, built in 1405, are close by.

There is a daily cultural show at 6:45 pm (Rs 100). Music and dance performances are also held here.

Chattarpur Temple
This traditional designed large South Indian temple has Deities of Krishna, Rama, Siva, Hanuman and Durga. It is a poplar temple. It is located near the Qutb Minar in South New Delhi. It was built under the supervision of Sant Baba Nagpal.

Tughluqabad
Tughluqabad is a fortified city built by Ghiyas-ud-din Tughluq. He ruled the Delhi Sultanate from 1321-25. The huge walls are 10m to 15m high, and extend for 6.5km around the circumference of the fort. It has thirteen outer gates and three inner gates. Outside the southern gate is an artificial lake. Ghiyas-ud-din Tughluq’s tomb, made of white marble and red sandstone, is situated in the center of the lake and is connected to the fort by a causeway. The tomb is in good shape. Immediately after Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlug was assassinated in 1325,

Tughluqabad was abandoned, being used for only five more years. When he returned from a military campaign, the pavilion built to welcome him by Muhammad-bin Tughluq, his son and successor, was deliberately collapsed, causing his death.

On a hill to the southeast are the ruins of the later Adilabad Fort, built by Ghiyas-ud-din’s son, Muhammad Shah II.

It is said that after Ghiyas-ud-din claimed the workers Nizamuddin had arranged to build his shrine, Nizamuddin cursed the king that only shepherds would inhabit his city. This has proved true.

This place is located on the Mehrauli to Badarpur Rd, 16km southeast of Connaught Place, and 8km due east of Qutb Minar. To get here by bus, take #451 from Jantar Mantar to Badarpur, then catch the bus going to Mehrauli. You can also catch a bus to this place from the Qutb Minar Complex.

Jahanpanah
This is what is left of the fourth city of Delhi. Located here are the Begumpur Mosque and the elevated Bijai Mandal platform.

Khirki Masjid
This interesting mosque was built in the late 14th century by the wazir of Firoz Shah Tughluq. Khirki-ki-Masjid means “the Mosque of Windows,” and it is known for its stone lattice windows. It is 4km east of Qutb Minar and 13km south of Connaught Place. It has twenty-five domes on its roof.

Baha’i Temple
Members of the Baha’i faith have built seven temples around the world over the last thirty years, including temples in the United States, Uganda, Samoa, and India. This temple was built between 1980-86. It is a gigantic, impressive, white-marble building (34m high) constructed in the shape of an opening lotus flower. It is 70m in diameter and 1,300 people can sit inside. All Baha’i temples are nine-sided, symbolizing “comprehensiveness and unity.” This temple is surrounded by twenty-six acres of grass and pools, which gives it an impressive atmosphere. Visitors must be silent while inside the temple.

It is a popular place. It is 12km southeast of Connaught Place. Bus #433 from Sansad Marg, near Connaught Place, stops near this temple. Open April to Sept, daily except Mon 9 am to 7 pm; Oct to March 9:30 am to 5:30 pm; Admission free. There is an audio visual show at 11 am, 12 noon, 2 pm, and 3:30 pm. It is closed twice a day for an hour for morning and evening prayers (approximately 10 am and 4 pm).

New Delhi ISKCON (Hare Krishna) Temple
This beautiful new temple was finished in 1998. Located in the temple complex is an interesting museum explaining the Krishna conscious philosophy. The presiding Deities are Radha-Parthasarathi. The phone number is 642-9577; fax 644-1306. There is a ashram guest house which has rooms with bath for Rs 350. It is best to reserve a room in advance.

To get to the temple, ask for the Sant Nagar area by Nehru Place. There are two Sant Nagar areas in Delhi, so adding “by Nehru Place” is essential. Once you arrive at the Sant Nagar area, ask anyone directions to the temple. The temple is located in the southeast part of Delhi by Mathura Rd. It is half an hour by auto-rickshaw from Connaught Place.

Ashoka’s Rock Edict
The edict is engraved on a rock near the Yamuna, close to Srinivaspuri. It is 12km southeast of Connaught Place and 3km south of Humayun’s tomb, half a km west of Mathura Rd. The edict was discovered in 1966 and is a ten-line inscription written in ancient Brahmi script.

Swimming Pools and Gym
In the winter, most pools are empty because it is too cold to swim. There is a pool at the New Delhi Municipal Corporation at Nehru Park, near the Ashok Hotel in Chanakyapuri. The pool at the Hotel Samrat (Rs 250), Hotel Kanishka (Rs 350), Claridges, Ashok, and the Imperial (Rs 550) can be used by non-guests.
Power House (686-4446), Hauz Khas Village, is a fairly well equipped gym.

Shopping
There is an excellent selection of shops in Delhi.

Many shops in Connaught Place sell modern clothes and other items, as well as traditional handicrafts. You can purchase good Tibetan goods at Tibetan Market, on Janpath, near the Imperial Hotel. These shops are managed by Tibetan Refugees and Kashmiris. They sell carpets, antiques (alleged), jewelry, and handicrafts.

On Baba Kharak Singh Marg, there are State Emporiums representing many of the Indian states. They carry brass items, woodcarvings, textiles, jewelry, handicrafts, and many other items. The goods in these shops are some of the highest quality in India, but they have price tags to match. The Tamil Nadu Emporium is worth visiting, just to see it.

The Main Bazaar in Paharganj has a wide assortment of shops. A few shops specialize in incense, oils, and perfumes. It is crowded.
In Old Delhi, Chandni Chowk is another crowded shopping street. There are many side streets going out from the main street. There is a jewelry bazaar in this area—one of the best in India. You can buy incense, oils, harmoniums, and other Indian musical instruments there.

Khan Market is a good place to purchase fruit, vegetables, and imported food. It also has good book shops.

Hauz Khas Village in South Delhi has several upmarket shops and is an interesting place. There are several shops selling designer clothing.
Palika Bazaar, under the park in the middle of Connaught Place, has a huge selection of shops selling foreign electronic goods, tapes, Western and Indian clothing, and many other items. It is like a Western indoor mall, with about 300 shops.
Sunder Nagar Market, across from the Oberoi New Delhi Hotel in South Delhi, has shops selling antiques. The prices in these shops are high, but there are many interesting items.

Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Janpath and Tolstoy Marg, carries good quality cotton and silk fabrics and clothing. They have an excellent selection. It is a government shop with fixed prices, and they will ship overseas if requested. Their prices may be higher than at other places, but the quality makes up for it.
Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan, near the Regal Building in Connaught Place, sells khadi (handspun cotton) clothing, fabrics, and Rajasthani paintings.

You can purchase detailed maps of India and its cities from the Map Sales Office, Survey of India, near the Central Cottages Emporium, 1st floor, Janpath.

Book Shops
There are many good book shops at Connaught Place, including the Oxford Book Shop at N-Block; New Book Depot at 18 B-Block; Bookworm (one of the best) at 29B Radial Rd, B-Block; Amrit Book Co., 21 N-Block; the English Book Depot. ED Galgotia & Sons, B-Block, has a good selection of spiritual, travel, and Ayurvedic books.

An excellent place to buy travel and other books is the round bookstall just south of Connaught Place on Janpath. They sell books at the best prices I have seen in India, and the man who runs it is quick and efficient.

Piccadilly Book Stall, Shop No 64, Shankar Market, on a side road off M-Block from Connaught Place, has the best selection of astrology and spiritual books in Delhi, and one of the best in India.

Bahri Sons at Khan Market has probably the largest selection of travel books. The Bookshop, Khan Market, also has a good selection.

At BPB Publications on B-Block, Connaught Place, you can purchase computer books. They have many of the latest titles from the US; a book costing $25 will go for $7 here.

In the center of Palika Bazaar there are two good book shops across from each other, Book World (Shop #7) and Rajiv Book House (Shop #30); both carry books mainly about India.

Motilal Banarsidass (291-8335 Fax: 99-11-293-0689), 41 UA Bungalow Rd, has a huge selection of books on Indian philosophy, the Puranas, astrology, and Ayurvedic medicines. They are wholesalers, but will also sell retail. They have a branch at Nai Sarak, Chandni Chowk.

Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers (777-1668; fax: 99-11-751-2745), 54 Rani Jhansi Road, has a large selection of Indian philosophy books. They are also publishers. Sagar Publications (332-0648), 72 Ved Mansion, down a side road off Janpath, carries a good selection of astrology, Vedic, and Ayurvedic medicine books.

Many of the bigger hotels have good bookshops, such as the Taj Mahal, Taj Palace, Hotel Kanishka, and Claridges.

J acksons Books, 5106 Main Bazaar, west end of Paharganj, has a good selection of used books in English, French, German, Italian, and other languages.

Fruit, Vegetable & Supermarkets   
An excellent selection of fruits and vegetables (according to Indian standards) can be found in Khan Market in South Delhi. There you can purchase avocados, pears, broccoli, lettuce, and more. Oriental Fruits Mart, 23E Connaught Place, at the beginning of Barakhamba Rd, has a good selection of fruits, vegetables, and imported foods. There are a few vegetable stands at Bengali Market which have a good selection. Morning Stores, M-Block Market in Greater Kailash, South Delhi, is about as close as you’ll get to a Western supermarket.

Entertainment
Triveni Theatre (371-8833), 205 Tansen Marg, stages dance shows by professional and student groups. India International Centre (461-9431), 40 Lode Estate, holds regular dance shows. Dances of India (331-7831), Parsi Anjuman Hall, Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, stages folk, classical, and tribal dances. Daily, 7 pm; admission Rs 100.
At Hauz Khas there are open-air dance shows to enjoy with your meal.

Local Buses
The buses can be extremely crowded, especially during rush hour. Seats for women are reserved on the left side of the bus. Bus #101 goes between the Interstate bus station and Connaught Place. #505 goes between Super Bazaar in Connaught Place and the Imperial Hotel to Qutb Minar. Buses #101, #104, and #139 go between Regal Cinema in Connaught Place and the Red Fort. Buses #620 and #630 go between Jantar Mantar near Connaught Place and Chanakyapuri. Bus #454 goes between Connaught Place and Nizamuddin.

Around Delhi by Taxi or Rickshaw
It is best to try to get the driver to use the meter, and before setting off. You should check that the meter has been cleared and is working. It is best to avoid taxis and auto-rickshaws waiting directly outside tourist sites. It is better to flag down a driver who is moving.

Often Delhi auto-rickshaw drivers will not use their meters. Therefore, you will have to negotiate the fare. This is especially true of short-distance travel. In Connaught Place, rickshaw drivers often refuse to use their meters. If you convince them to use the meter, they may drive you all over town before taking you to your destination. This has happened to me several times. Ask what the fare should be at your hotel or at a shop, then bargain for that price. Luggage charges can be levied if your bags weigh more than 20 kg. This charge should be worked out in advance.

Auto-rickshaw drivers will be more reluctant to use the meter for short distances. From the New Delhi railway station to Connaught Place by the meter is Rs 7, but few rickshaw drivers will bring you there for less than Rs 15. Sometimes they will charge as much as Rs 50 or more.

The flagfall for taxis is Rs 7 and for auto-rickshaws Rs 4.40. Besides what you see on the meter, expect something to be added (“fare adjustment”) because few meters are regularly adjusted. You can ask to see your driver’s updated rate card, which they must show upon request. If they do not have a rate card, ask a local. An extra night charge of 20% for auto-rickshaws and 25% for taxis is added between 11 pm and 5 am. To make a complaint, call 331-9334. The Delhi City Guide (available at newsstands) prints an updated fare chart.

By auto-rickshaw no fare should cost more than Rs 100 to anywhere in Delhi from Connaught Place. From Connaught Place to the Red Fort or Chandni Chowk, it should cost about Rs 100 by taxi or Rs 40 by auto-rickshaw. Paharganj to Connaught Place Rs 15; Paharganj to Old Delhi railway station Rs 40; Connaught Place to Chanakyapuri Rs 40.

If you want to hire a car for the day, the tourist office on Janpath rents cars. You can also go to the taxi booth at the end of Tibetan Market on Janpath. Travel agents will usually charge a higher rate than if you arrange for a car yourself, but the travel agent’s car will usually be more reliable.

Metropole Tourist Service (469-2212), 294 Defence Flyover Market, is a reliable place to hire a luxury car. A good source for a long-distance taxi (taxi to Agra, Jaipur, etc.) is Gaurav Tours (753-5062), 5212 Basant Road, Paharganj. A taxi for all day should be around Rs 500, with a tip to the driver of Rs 50 or Rs 100.

There are six-seater (but fifteen may fit in) motorcycle rickshaws which run along fixed routes for a fixed price (usually around Rs 3 and not more than Rs 5). From Palika Bazaar in Connaught Place they go to the Red Fort and Chandni Chowk.
Bicycle

You can rent a bicycle from Mehta Cycles for Rs 25 a day (Rs 600 deposit), with a Rs 5 overnight charge.

Prepaid Taxi Stands
There are prepaid taxi stands at the airport and railway station where you can pay in advance a fixed rate for taxis and auto-rickshaws. At the train station I found the prepaid rate to be much cheaper than the price I could negotiate myself. It is Rs 35 from the New Delhi railway station to Nizamuddin Station in southeast Delhi. The problem with going at this rate is that many of the auto-rickshaw drivers will not want to take you. At the Nizamuddin Station they wanted to have me travel with two other people for Rs 35. After haggling for fifteen minutes, a driver finally took me to the New Delhi railway station. For Rs 10 more I could have avoided all this trouble. On the other hand, going from New Delhi station to Nizamuddin, I had no difficulty getting someone to take me for the prepaid price of Rs 35. Everyone else wanted Rs 50 or 60. The advantage of using the prepaid taxi is that you pay a set fee, and you will not be driven all over town so the driver can increase the meter price. 

WARNING Beware of travel agents at the railway station, airport, and in Connaught Place that post unofficial Government Tourist Office signs. If you read the signs closely, you will find in small print “Approved by J & K” or some other government office in small letters, and in huge letters “GOVERNMENT TOURIST OFFICE.” A friend saw one of these signs, pointed out by one of their employees, and assumed that since it was a government tourist office, it must be bona fide and honest. The staff there told him that it would cost $30 to get to Mathura by train. The real cost was $1.25 (Rs 42). They told him that considering the trouble and cost taking the train would entail, he would be better off paying $60 for a taxi to Vrindavan (150km from Delhi). He believed them, although the real price at that time was Rs 800 ($25).

I have also heard of a case in which a travel agent had two women pay $235 each to share a taxi to Jaipur, Pushkar, Agra, and then back to Delhi. This is a total cost of $470. The real cost was a maximum of $235 for both of them. On top of that, the driver brought them to overpriced hotels, from which he received a commission on the price of their room. He also brought them to places to shop where they were charged more than double the normal price for different items. As one of the women told me, “I really thought I knew what I was doing until all my money was gone in less than a week.”

To and From the Airports
The Indira Gandhi International Airport is 22km southwest of the city center. The Domestic Airport is 15km from city center. The Domestic Airport is between the International Airport and city center.
Bus Both Delhi Transport Corporation (DTC) and the Ex-Servicemen’s Airlink Transport Service (EATS) operate buses between the airport, some hotels if you ask, and the city center. To go to the airport, the EATS bus departs every thirty minutes from the Indian Airlines office on F-Block, near Wimpy’s restaurant in Connaught Place, between 4 am and 11 pm. From the airport it runs from 8.30 am to 10.30 pm. The costs of the EATS bus (331-6550), that goes to and from the airport is Rs 30 from the domestic terminal and Rs 50 from the international terminal.  
The DTC bus goes to the New Delhi Railway Station and the Interstate Bus Station. It costs Rs 25. You get the bus at the New Delhi railway station on the Ajmeri Gate side of the station. To get there from Paharganj, walk into the railway station and go over the railway bridge to the other side of the tracks. The bus stand is about 200m straight ahead after coming down the stairs. This is a safe, easy way to get to the airport. Public bus #780 goes from Super Bazaar at Connaught Place to the airport, but can be quite crowded.

Taxi Fares from the International terminal cost about Rs 200 to Rs 250 by taxi or Rs 90 to Rs 125 by uncomfortable (for this distance) auto-rickshaw to get to Connaught Place, the Paharganj area, or the New Delhi railway station. From the Domestic Terminal, the prepaid taxi costs Rs 150 plus Rs 2 per bag.

As you come out of the International airport there are three prepaid taxi stands, all charging a fixed rate based on the distance to your destination. You tell the staff your destination and the number of pieces of luggage. The first counter is for limousines (expensive), next to that is the counter for so-called luxury taxis (which means paying more for nothing extra). Outside, straight and then to your left is the lowest priced prepaid taxi stand. The Delhi Traffic Police PrePaid Taxi Booth is the cheapest. Keep your receipt and give it to the driver at your destination, not before. A tip or further payment is not required.

Occasionally you can negotiate a cheaper price yourself. Go to the prepaid taxi stand to find out the standard rate, then negotiate with the taxi drivers and try to beat that price.

The taxi drivers at the Delhi airports can be incredible cheaters. It is a good idea to write down the license number of the cab before getting into it. Many budget hotels are closed between 12 midnight and 6 am, so your options will be limited at this time.
Warning!  If you take a taxi to a hotel in Delhi, the driver may repeatedly ask you whether you would not prefer to go another hotel. He may not even ask, but may take you somewhere other than where you requested. Do not take the taxi driver’s advice. Hotel owners pay taxi drivers a commission to bring travelers to their hotels.
If you arrive at night, it is highly advisable to have a destination in mind and to get a prepaid taxi. I would also advise that you do not try to converse much with the taxi driver. Because they are working on commission for a number of places, they often lie and then act insulted if you do not believe them.

If a taxi driver tells you he will take you to a place for half the fair price or cheaper (without you bargaining for five minutes), you can be certain he will try to cheat you.
If you are traveling alone (especially if you are a woman), you are more likely to have problems. If you think there may be a problem take down the taxi driver’s license plate number before getting into the taxi. A driver can lose his permit if he is reported for cheating, and many drivers will take the threat of being reported to the police seriously.

Taxi drivers in Delhi are capable of telling you any false thing with an honest face. Many of them believe that to lie to make money is all right. Even if you catch them in a lie, they will not admit it but will become offended.
For example, they may tell you that the hotel you have chosen is full, that it has closed or has burned down, or that it is no longer a good place. They may tell you that there are Hindu-Muslim riots and that the roads are closed in Delhi, and that you would be a fool not to immediately go to Agra or Jaipur with them because you may be killed in the riots. They will also tell you that they have an extremely reasonable hotel arranged for you there.

You may also go to a hotel and an official looking person stops you at the door of the hotel. He then tells you that the hotel is full and that most of the hotels in the area are full and that it is best for you to go with your driver to another area in town where there are plenty of hotels with rooms at very reasonable prices.

You may be driving along and a policeman stops the car. The driver argues with him and then tells you he can’t take you further because there are riots and people have been killed. He then brings you to a “safe” hotel. The next morning, a travel agent appears to sell you a tour of Rajasthan and Agra. I have met several people who have experienced these things.

At the train station, rickshaw drivers will tell you they will take you to any hotel you want for Rs 5. In truth, they will make every attempt to bring you to the hotel of their choosing. If you refuse to go, they will stop the rickshaw and order you to get out, even if you don’t know where you are.
Never pay a local taxi driver in advance. If you are going a long distance (Agra or Jaipur), you may be requested to pay Rs 500 in advance for the gas (petrol). This is all right, but keep the balance of the fare until your arrival.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides