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Panaji (Panjim)

Pop: 90,000 Area Code 0832

Panaji became the capital of Goa in 1843 after the port of the old capital, Old Goa, silted up and a plague hit the city. Panaji is the smallest, and one of the nicest, state capitals. Many people pass through Panaji on the way to the beaches, but most do not spend much time in this friendly town.
The city has a definite European feel to it because of the whitewashed churches, old houses, red-tiled roofs, cobbled roads, and small squares. In the old Latin quarter, Fontainhas, many of the shops have Portuguese names. I enjoyed walking around the town looking at the old buildings. Old Goa is thirty minutes away by bus.

Orientation
Panaji is situated on the south bank of the Mandovi River. It is easy to get around by foot because everything is close together. The Ourem River, which runs north–south, divides Panaji. The Kadamba Bus Terminal and the Goa Tourist Office are on the eastern side of the river. Most everything else is on the west side. The Fontainhas area, the old part of the city, runs mainly along the western bank of the Ourem.

Information
The helpful GTDC Tourist Office (226-515; fax 223-926) is in the Patto Tourist Home Hotel, Dr Alvares Cross Rd. The GTDC Information Counter inside the Kadamba bus stand can arrange accommodations and has train and bus schedules. They also arrange tours and tourist taxis. Open Mon to Fri 8 am to 6 pm & Sat 9 am to 5 pm. There is also a tourist counter at the airport, which is open for incoming flights. They all sell good state maps for Rs 12.

The ITDC Tourist Office (223-412), Communidade Building, Church Square, is good. Open Mon to Fri 9:30 am to 5:45 pm & Sat 9.30 am to 1 pm. The Karnataka State Tourist Office (224-110), Velho, east side of Municipal Gardens, is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 1:30 pm and 2:15 to 5.15 pm. The Maharashtra Tourist Office is in the Tourist Hotel.

The British High Commission has a Consular Assistant. Agnelo Godinho (46824), 189 Avda Dom Joäo, near the GPO.

Tours
Tours of Goa are operated by Goa Tourism. They can be booked at the tourist offices and by private agencies. Most tours go to many places in one day, and you may feel like cattle being herded around. The beach tours are for out-of-staters who want to look at Western bodies.

The North Goa tour goes to Panaji, Mapusa, Datta Mandir, Mayem Lake, Vagator, Anjuna, Calangute, and Fort Agauda. The South Goa tour goes to Old Goa, Mangesh Temple, Shantadurga Temple, Miramar, Dona Paula, Pilar Seminary, Colva, and Vasco da Gama. The tours depart daily at 9:30 am and return at 6 pm and cost Rs 60 (Rs 80 for an A/C bus).

The Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary tour departs daily at 9:30 am and returns at 5 pm (Rs 70).

There are daily half-hour river cruises on the Mandovi River at 6 pm (Sunset Cruise) and 7:15 pm (Sundown Cruise). The cost is Rs 60. They include a Goan folk song and dance cultural program. On full-moon nights, there are two-hour cruises starting at 8:30 pm (Rs 100). You can have dinner on-board. The Goan Tourism’s Santa Monica departs from the former Mumbai steamer jetty, by the customs office. There are also private boats that cruise on the Mandovi River, which depart from in front of the Tourist Hotel. Their rates are usually higher.

Money
You can change money at the State Bank of India, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, across from the Hotel Mandovi. The Andhra Bank, opposite the Ashok Samrat Cinema, does advances on Visa and MasterCard, and the Bank of Baroda, Azad Maidan, does advances on Visa and MasterCard cards.

Thomas Cook (221-312; fax 221-313), Dayannad Bandodkar Marg, changes money quickly and efficiently and also makes international money transfers. Open Mon to Sat 9:30 am to 6 pm.

The American Express Office is at Menezes Air Travel (225-081; fax 225-081), Rua de Ourem, near Patto Bridge. Wall Street Finance and the Exchange Bureau in the Hotel Fidalgo also change money.

Post and Internet
The poste restante counter is 250m west of Patto Bridge, next to the GPO, about 250m west of the Patto Bridge, near the Mandovi River.

Courier services: DHL (226-487), Nagesh Apt, Rua Conde de Sarcedes; and Skypak (225-763), Rivera Rd, Municipal Garden Square.
NetMagic (224-106), 7 Shanta Building, 18th June Rd, has internet facilities for Rs 100 per hour (9 am to 1 pm & 3 to 6 pm). Shruti Communication, 31st January Rd, has internet access for Rs 75 per hour.

Visa Extensions & Tax Clearance
The Foreigners’ Registration Office (46565) is at Police headquarters. They may be able to extend a visa. Open Mon to Fri. 9:30 am to 1 pm.
You can get a tax clearance certificate at the Taxation Department in the Shanta Building at the end of Emidio Gracia Rd.

Medical
Goa Medical College, west end of Avda Dom Joäo Castro, is the biggest hospital in Panaji. Ambulance number: 46300.
Dr Bale is a good bone specialist. His 24-hour clinic is in Porvorim on NH17, on the road to Mapusa, 4km north of Panaji.

Book Shops and Libraries
There are good bookshops in the Hotel Mandovi and the Hotel Fidalgo.
The Alliance Francaise de Goa (223-274), in Altinho, shows classic French films (usually at 6 pm on Thurs). Open Mon to Fri, 9:30 am to 1 pm and 3.30 to 6.30 pm. Three months temporary membership is Rs 150.

Travel Agencies
MGM International Travels (45150), Mamai Camotin Building (also branches in Calangute and Anjuna); Aero Mundial (44831), in the Hotel Mandovi; and Georgeson & Georgeson (43742), 1st floor, opposite the GPO.
Citizen World Travels (227-087), F/4 Gomes Building, 2nd Fl, C Albuquerque Rd, is efficient. Thomas Cook, 8 Alcon Chambers, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, is very efficient.   
Melo Travels (0832 279-490) in Panaji, Goa, is a helpful place, which can help you to get discounts on hotels. They have a web site. 

Music and Dance
At Kala Academy there are regular performances of classical Indian music and dance. The school is in Campal, at the far west end of Dayanand Bandodkar Rd.

Getting Around
An auto-rickshaw should cost no more than Rs 25 for most places in town. You can rent a bicycle from Daud M Agar Bike Shop in front of the National Theatre, or at the bike shop located up the road, opposite the GPO.

You can arrange a car with a driver from GTDC (Goa Tourism) (226-515), the ITDC Tourist Office, or from Hertz (44304), opposite Dom Bosco School, Market Area. Rates are around Rs 400 to Rs 600 for four hours, and Rs 600 to Rs 1000 for eight hours, depending on the distance. You can rent a self-drive car from Hertz and Budget Rent-a-Car (217-755), c/o Sai Service (217-063), Mapusa Rd, Porvorim, on the north side of Mandovi bridge. Sai Service is recommended.

Typical taxi fares from Panaji are: Calangute Rs 150; Colva Rs 300, and Dabolim Airport Rs 300.

Fontainhas
This is the oldest and most interesting area in Panaji. There are blocks of narrow streets and old Portuguese houses with over hanging balconies. Many of buildings still have their traditional coat of green, blue, and pale yellow paint. In the past, the Portuguese had a rule that all buildings had to have a fresh coat of paint after the monsoon. Churches had to be white.

Chapel of St Sebastian
The chapel was built in the 1880s and contains a lifelike crucifix. It formerly hung in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa. Christ has his eyes open, which is unusual for a crucifix. It is said that this was to inspire fear in those who were being interrogated by the Inquisitors. It is located at the south end of the Fontainhas area. There is a festival here in mid-November to celebrate the patron saint’s day.

The Secretariat (Idalcao Palace)
This was the summer palace of the Muslim ruler of Goa, Adil Shah. This is the oldest building in Panaji. It has a European look with its wooden verandah and carved stone coat of arms. It was rebuilt by the Portuguese in 1615 and was used by the territory’s governors during overnight visits on their way to and from Europe. When Goa became the capital, this building became the viceroy’s residence. Now it is used as the Goan State Legislature.

A hundred metres west, there is a statue of Abbé Farrin (1755-1819) with his hands held over an entranced, reclining woman. He was a Goan priest who moved to France and became a famous hypnotist.

Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception
This beautiful church, east of Church Square (also known as Municipal Garden), was built in 1541. It is located on an elevated terrace, approached by climbing a flight of steps. It has a beautiful gilded main altar. The huge bell in the main tower used to be in Old Goa in the ruined Augustianian monastery. This is the most photogenic place in Panaji. Church Square is a park in the middle of Panaji.

A few blocks south of Church Square is the Hindu Mahalakshmi Temple. Also near the square is the domeless Jama Masjid Mosque (mid-18th century).

The Museum
This museum contains ancient deities, temple sculptures, puja (worship) paraphernalia, and sati stones. There are also old Jain bronze sculptures, found by Customs officers when they were being smuggled out of the country. In the Western art section there is a collection of photos taken around the beginning of the century. There are also some Christian exhibits and antique furniture.
The museum is on the first floor of an office building near Caculo Island intersection.

Where to Stay
During the festival of St Francis in early December and during the high season of mid-December to mid-January, accommodations can be tight and prices doubled. The best budget places are in Fontainhas, near the Ourem River. There are no accommodations in Old Goa.

Where to Stay—Lower
Youth Hostel (225-433), in Miramar, 3km west of Panaji, is surrounded by a grove of trees. It has dorm beds for Rs 50 (Rs 60 for non-members). It is out of the way.
In the old part of town there are several good, inexpensive places.
Elite Boarding & Lodging has clean rooms with bath for Rs 150/200; triples Rs 250. They offer about a fifty-percent discount during the off-season, especially if you are planning an extended stay.
Udipi Boarding and Lodging (228-047), Sao Tame, has rooms with common bath for Rs 125 and Rs 200 with bath.
The popular Mandovi Pearl Guest House (223-928), José Falcão Rd, near the river, has only five rooms. Rooms are Rs 350 for a single, Rs 450 for a double, and Rs 500 for a triple. It is well-managed and is often full. Doubles are Rs 250 off-season.
Republica Hotel (224-630), José Falcão Rd, in back of the Secretariat, is an older place with basic rooms for Rs 250/300. There are good views of the Mandovi River from the verandah. It is a good value and is popular with travelers.
GTDC Patto Tourist Home (227-972), between the bus station and the center of town, is a popular place with rooms for Rs 350 (Rs 250 low season) and dorm beds for Rs 75 (Rs 50 during low season).
Alfonso Guest House (222-359), St Sebastian Chapel Square, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 400/500. It is a nice place in a family house. Good discounts during the off-season.
The well-managed, modern Orav’s Guest House (226-128), 31 January Rd, has clean, comfortable double rooms with bath for Rs 350/450. The front rooms have small balconies. Checkout time 9 am.
Park Lane Lodge (227-154), near St Sebastian Chapel, is an old Portuguese house with a selection of clean rooms ranging from Rs 350 to Rs 450. Rooms go down to Rs 250 during the off-season. It has a friendly atmosphere and is recommended.
Hotel Embassy (226-019) has good, clean double rooms with hot water for Rs 450.
The modern, well-managed Hotel Neptune (227-747), Malaca Rd, in the new section of town, has double rooms with hot water for Rs 350 to Rs 500.
Hotel Arcadia (226-727), MG Rd, has a good atmosphere.

Where to Stay—Middle
The popular Tourist Hotel (227-103), near the river and the Secretariat, has large, pleasant, clean double rooms for Rs 550, triple rooms for 750, and A/C rooms for Rs 750. There is a Rs 50 discount during the off-season. The front rooms have balconies with a view of the river, but can be noisy, so the back rooms are better. It has a bookshop and some rooms have a TV. There is a good restaurant on the terrace and a tourist counter in the lobby. It is often full.
The modern, well-managed Garden View (227-844), across from Municipal Gardens, has large clean rooms for Rs 500 and Rs 600 with A/C. The more expensive rooms overlook the park.
The popular Keni’s Hotel (224-581 fax 235-227), 18 June Rd, has good rooms for Rs 500/650 and Rs 750 for an A/C room with color TV and hot water. It has a garden.
Hotel Samrat (44546), Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has clean rooms for Rs 500/650. It also has triple/four-bed rooms for Rs 700/750. It is a good place. They exchange travelers cheques and accept most major credit cards. It has a good Chinese restaurant.
Mayfair Hotel (223-317; fax 230-068), Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, is a good place with rooms with a bath for Rs 450/550 and Rs 650 for an A/C room. During the off-season, they charge Rs 350/450. It has a good restaurant.
Hotel Bareton (226-405) has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 400/550. Checkout time is 8:30 am.
Hotel Summit, Menezes Braganza Rd, is a good place with rooms with A/C and 24-hour hot water for Rs 850/1200 during the high season and Rs 650/850 the rest of the year. Breakfast included.
The modern Hotel Aroma (228-308; fax 224-330), Cunha Rivara Rd, opposite the Municipal Garden, has clean rooms with common bath for Rs 400/450 and double rooms with bath ranging from Rs 600 to Rs 800. It has a good tandoori restaurant on the first floor.
Hotel Palácio de Goa (224-289), Gama Pinto Rd, has good rooms for Rs 700/800 and A/C rooms are Rs 800/900. Some rooms have balconies. It has a pure vegetarian restaurant. Some rooms are not so nice. Checkout time 8 am.
Hotel Rajdhani (225-362), Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd, is a good place with clean rooms for Rs 800 and Rs 900 for an A/C room. It has a good vegetarian restaurant downstairs.
The well-managed Panjim Inn (235-628, 226-523; fax 228-136), E212, 31 Janeiro Rd, Fontainhas, has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 700/800. After the Christmas rush, the price goes down. It is in a beautiful, 17th century Portuguese building with antique furniture, so many of the rooms are different and you should ask to see a selection. Some rooms have balconies. It is run by a Goan man and Tibetan woman. It has a large first-floor verandah and a nice garden. A friendly, recommended place.

Where to Stay—High
The modern A/C Hotel Fidalgo (225-291; fax 225-061), 18 June Rd, has a pool and nice rooms with cable TV for Rs 1200/1400. During the off-season, rooms go for Rs 900, so it is a good value. It has a health club, exchange facilities, and a travel agency.
The comfortable Hotel Nova Goa (226-231; fax 224-958), Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd, has a swimming pool. It has clean rooms with bathtubs for Rs 1400/2000 and suites for Rs 2600. Breakfast is included and it has a pool. It is a good-valued, modern place with an A/C restaurant. During the Christmas season, a standard room is Rs 2600.
The modern Golden Goa (226-231; fax 224-958), Dr Atmaram Borkar Rd, has clean A/C rooms with bath for Rs 1200/1400. It shares the pool with the Hotel Nova Goa.
Hotel Mandovi (224-405, 226-270; fax 225-451), Dr D Bandodkar Marg, next to the river, has rooms with a good view for Rs 1600/2300 and Rs 1400/2000 for rooms without a view. The rooms overlooking the river have balconies. It is a grand old 1930s Portuguese building, and is the best place in town. It has a pool and travel agency, and a good restaurant on the first floor. Recommended.

Where to Eat
The popular Vihar, 32 Janeiro Rd, is a very good South Indian vegetarian restaurant, serving dosas, puris, wadas, and thalis for Rs 30.
Satkar, 18 June Rd, is a good, clean South Indian vegetarian place. The same people manage this place and Vihar, and the service at both is quick and efficient.
Rangoli, Ormuz Rd, near Cine National, has good vegetarian Gujarati thalis for Rs 40. Open 11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 10 pm.
Kamat, north side of Municipal Garden, has cheap thali meals and South Indian snacks.
The popular Venite (225-537), 31 Janeiro Rd, has good Indian and Western food, including macaroni and cheese (Rs 70). It also has good breakfasts. There are small balconies overlooking the street, and the place has a good atmosphere. Closed on Sundays.
Sher-e-Punjab (56-507), Hotel Aroma, is a high-class place serving Punjabi and tandoori food. Main dishes cost Rs 40-75. Open noon to 3:30 pm and 6:30 to 11:30 pm.
Goenchin (227-614), near Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good Chinese food. Main dishes cost Rs 50-75. Popular. Open 12:30 to 3 pm and 7:30 to 11 pm.
Delhi Durbar, MG Rd, is a high-class restaurant serving North Indian food. Open 11 am to 3 pm and 6:30 to 11 pm.
Eurasia, Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good pizzas and Italian food.
Tandoor, in the Aroma Hotel, has good food at a reasonable price.
A Pastelaria, Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, has good baked goods, cakes, and chocolates. There is also a Pastelaria in the Hotel Mandovi.
Casa Juka, opposite the Secretariat, has fresh juice, lassis, and snacks. It is an interesting place to sit.
Riorico, in the Hotel Mandovi, has good Goan food.
Chunghwa, in the Hotel Samrat, is a good Chinese place managed by a Chinese family.

Travel
Air Flights land at Dabolim airport, 29km south of Panaji, near Vasco da Gama. A prepaid taxi to Panaji cost Rs 400 (45 min), and can be booked at the prepaid taxi stand. Kadamba buses meet domestic flights and drop passengers at the main bus stand and the Indian Airlines office on Dr D Bandodkar Marg in the northwest part of town. Many of the higher-class hotels have free pickup services. Some may take non-guests for about Rs 50.
Domestic airline offices in Panaji: Indian Airlines (223-831), Dempo Building, Dr D Bandokar Rd; Jet (221-476), Rizvi Chambers, Office #102, Caetano Albuquerque Rd; Damania (220-056), Bernard Guedes Rd. The Damania office also handles Air Canada, Air France and Gulf Air.
International airlines offices: Air India (224-081), Hotel Fidalgo, 18 June Rd; British Airways (224-338; fax 224-338), 2 Excelsior Chambers, MG Rd; KLM ((226-678), 18 June Rd, (also PIA).
See the “Travel To and From Goa” section for a list of flights.

Train There is no railway station in Panaji. There are railway stations in Mapusa, Old Goa, Vasco da Gama, and Margao. There is a railway booking office on the first floor of Kadamba bus terminal.

Bus The Kadamba bus terminal (230-743, 224-571, 223-334) is half a km east of the center of town. You can book Kadamba bus tickets 30 days in advance (9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm).
Many private companies operate deluxe, super-deluxe, and super-deluxe video buses to Mumbai, Pune (12 hr), Bangalore (14 hr), and Mangalore. The buses usually depart in the evenings. The video buses are extremely loud and should be avoided unless you are deaf. Unique International Travels (46335) operates A/C buses to Mumbai, Bangalore, and Pune.
The bus ride to Mumbai takes between 14 and 18 hours. A luxury bus is Rs 200 and an A/C luxury bus is Rs 300. Private companies usually have better buses (which cost more). This is important because the road can be rough.
There is one direct bus from Panaji to Gokarna. To get to Gokarna (6 hr), you can catch the bus to Mangalore and get down at Ankola. Then take a private mini-van from there. There are buses to Mysore (16 hr), a Kadamba luxury bus to Mangalore (11 hr), and buses to Bangalore and Pune. There are five buses daily to Karwar, which is the first major town over the Karnataka border.
To get to Hampi from Goa there is one direct bus to Hospet (the neighboring town), departing at 10:30 am (11 hr). There are also private overnight luxury buses to Hampi, which can be booked through a travel agency. You can also catch a bus to Hubli (7 am, 7 hr) and from there get the train or one of the frequent buses (4 hr) to Hospet. Hubli is on the main Mumbai to Bangalore line. From Hubli you can catch a train to Gadag for both Badami and Bijapur.
You can get a bus to Londa (where you get a train to Delhi and Mysore) and Miraj (which is on the main line to Mumbai).
Boat The catamaran boat that used to go between Mumbai to Panaji does not operate any more. It may operate in the future, but it seems doubtful.
Taxi A taxi from Panaji to Calangute is Rs 150, to Anjuna or Vagator Rs 200, and to Colva Rs 300.

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