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Bhuj

Pop: 125,000 Area Code: 02832

Bhuj is the main city in Kutch. It is an old-walled city with narrow, winding streets. It is a fascinating place in which to walk around with its ornate temples, old palaces, gateways, and winding lanes. The people are friendly and helpful.
Bhuj became the capital of Kutch in the mid-16th century and was ruled by the Jadejas Rajputs until Independence.

Information
The Tourist Office (20004), in the Aina Mahal Palace in the old city, is open daily except Sat 9 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm. They can arrange a guide. They also sell a few pamphlets about Kutch and can provide information about permit requirements.

The State Bank of India, Station Rd. changes money (weekdays noon to 3 pm).

The GPO in near Waniawad Gate.

There is a swimming pool at the Lakeview Restaurant, south of the lake (7 to 10 am and 3 to 5.30 pm).

Seth Gophandas Ketsey Hospital (22850), Hospital Rd, has modern facilities.

Aina Mahal (Old Palace)
The interesting old palace of Maharao Lakhpatji is built in the traditional Kutchi style. It was designed by Ram Singh from Saurashtra, who used Indian and European designs. The Maharao Madansinji Museum has a collection of paintings, photos, and Kutchi embroidery. There are historical artifacts belonging to the Maharaja. There is a 20m long painted scroll of Maharao Pragmalji followed by his army celebrating a victory over the Mughals.

The most interesting room is the Hall of Mirrors, which has walls made of white marble and is covered by mirrors surrounded by gilded decorations. The Fuvara Mahal is a music room with fancy, glass-blown lanterns and Venetian glass shades. The Pleasure Pool has a square in the middle where the Maharaja would sit. Hira Mahal has an adorned bed, some outstanding Kutch carpets, and clocks.

Open daily except Sat 9 am to noon and 3 to 5.45 pm. Admission Rs 3, photography not allowed.

Prag Mahal (New Palace)
The Prag Mahal, across the courtyard from the Aina Mahal, is a new marble and sandstone palace built at the end of the 19th century. Parts of the palace are now used as government offices. Tourists can visit the Durbar Hall and the clock tower. There are paintings of former maharajas in the Durbar Hall. Open daily except Sat 9 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 5; camera Rs 20, video Rs 50.

Sharad Bagh Palace
This small palace, built in 1867, has a beautiful well-kept garden. On display are personal items of the last Maharaja, who died in 1991.

Open daily except Fri 9 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm. Admission Rs 1, camera Rs 20, video Rs 50.

Kutch Museum
Established in 1877, this museum has a good collection of archaeological artifacts, weapons, a picture gallery, musical instruments, and textiles.

Open daily except Wed and the 2nd and 4th Sat of the month, from 9 to 11.30 am and 3 to 5.30 pm.

Other Places
The Swami Narayan Temple, near the Aina Mahal, is interesting. Open 7 to 11 am and 4 to 7 pm.

The Bharatiya Sanskriti Darshan (Kutch Folk Museum) has reconstructions of traditional village houses. It has some interesting private exhibits of antiques and textiles. To visit, call Mr Rathod (21518).

Where to Stay—Lower
Hotel Ratrani (22388), off Station Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 90/125 (bucket hot water) and rooms with constant hot water for Rs 175. It has a restaurant with cheap Gujarati thalis.
Hotel Ritish (24117), off Station Rd, has large, clean rooms with bath (hot water in the morning) for Rs 150/225. Rooms with common bath are Rs 100/150 and dorm beds are Rs 50.
Sagar Guest House (21479), across from the bus stand, has single rooms with common bath for Rs 90, rooms with bath for Rs 125/150, and dorm beds for Rs 40. It can be noisy.
City Guest House (21067), near the old vegetable stand, has rooms with common bath for Rs 125/175 and small, clean double rooms with bath for Rs 200. Free hot water in a bucket. It is a friendly place with an interesting location. It is popular with backpackers.
Annapurna Lodge (20831) has rooms with common bath for Rs 125 and with bath for Rs 125/160. It can be noisy.
VRP Guest House (21388), near the bus stand, has clean, basic rooms with common bath for Rs 75/110 and with bath for Rs 110/160. Gujarati sign outside.

Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Anam (21390), Station Rd, has good, clean rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 300/450 and Rs 600/750 with A/C. It has a good vegetarian restaurant.
Hotel Prince (20370; fax 50373), Station Rd, has rooms for Rs 450/600 and Rs 1200/1450. Exchange facilities for guest. You can pay in foreign currency and avoid the luxury tax. The restaurant serves Indian, Western, Chinese, and thalis. It is a popular place.
Where to Eat
Hotel Anam has a recommend vegetarian restaurant serving great all-you-can-eat thalis.
Hotel Nilam, across from the Hotel Prince, is a good vegetarian place serving Chinese and Punjabi dishes.
Green Rock, in the VRP Lodge, has good Gujarati vegetarian thalis.
The restaurant in the Annapurna Hotel has good Kutch thalis.

Travel
Air The Indian Airlines office (50204), New Station Rd, (open daily 10 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4.30 pm), has a daily flight to Mumbai ($105). Gujarat Airlines (25198) has flights to Mumbai. Jet Airways (53671; Airport: 53673). The airport is 5km north of town, and an auto-rickshaw to the airport costs about Rs 50.

Train The railway station is 1km north of town. To the downtown, an auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 25. A train goes to Ahmedabad via Palanpur (16 hr, 490km). It is faster to catch a bus or train to Gandhidham (2 hr) and then get the overnight Mumbai-Gandhidham Kutch Exp (7 hr, 300km) from there.
Travel agents will purchase tickets for a fee of about Rs 25. Hemal Travels (50204), near the bus stand offers this service.

Bus and Car  There are regular buses to villages in Kutch.

There are private buses to Ahmedabad (7 hr), Rajkot (6 hr) Mumbai (17 hr), and Jaisalmer (16 hr). Some of these buses have sleeping berths.
There are shared taxis to Mandvi (Rs 25 per person) that depart from the STC bus stand.

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