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Mysore

Pop: 740,000 Area Code: 0821

Mysore is 139km southwest of Bangalore and is called the Sandalwood City, because it contains many sandalwood, rose, jasmine, and other flowering trees. This is where much of the incense and sandalwood oil in India is made. Also many carved products made of ivory, sandalwood, rosewood and teakwood are made here.

This is one of the most popular cities in South India for foreigners because both the city and the surrounding areas have interesting places to visit. The city has a pleasant atmosphere, with relatively cheap and good accommodations.

Mysore is an old city that has almost always been ruled by Hindus—in succession by the Cholas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagar, and Wodeyar dynasties. In 1759, the Hindu Wodeyars were overthrown by one of their Muslim generals, Hyder Ali. After killing Hyder Ali’s son, Tipu Sultan, the British reinstated the Wodeyars. Mysore is a city of palatial buildings, including seventeen palaces.

The city gets its name from Mahishasura, a demon who caused trouble to the people in the area until Goddess Chamundi killed him. The famous Dussehra festival takes place in Sept/Oct. On the tenth day of this festival there is a victory procession to celebrate the killing of Mahishasura with elephants, horses, bands, floats, and gold and silver coaches. Chamundi is the family deity of the Wodeyars, the ruling family of Mysore from the 15th century until Independence.

The city is at an altitude of 770m (2540 ft), so the climate is nice all-year round. The weather is best between September and January, but is pleasant until April.

Nearby Mysore, at Srirangapatnam, there is an important Vishnu temple. At Somnathpur there is an ancient, beautifully carved temple dedicated to Krishna called the Channakesava Temple.

Orientation
The main street in town is Sayaji Rao Rd, which goes north to south. The railway station is in the northwest section of the city. The Central bus station is in the northeast part of the city. The city palace takes up a good section of the southern part of the city. Chamundi Hill is south, past the city palace.

Information
The KSTDC Karnataka State Tourist Office (442-096; fax 442-833) is at the Old Exhibition Building, Irwin Road. There is tourist office (423-652) at the Hotel Mayura Hoysala, 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, and counters at the railway station and Central bus stand.

The Forest Dept office (520-901), Woodyard, Ashokpuram, provides information on wildlife parks.
Kalamandir Auditorium (28185), Vinoba Rd, hosts dance, classical Indian music, and folk dance performances.

Basappa Memorial Hospital (512-401) and Holdsworth Memorial Hospital (427716), Sawday Rd, are among the best hospitals in town.

Tours
The KSTDC Mysore tour includes the Mysore Palace, Chamundi Hill, Srirangapatnam, Brindavan Gardens, and Somnathpur. You book the KSTDC tours at their office (22096) on Irwin Road, or at the Hotel Mayura Hoysala, which is where the tour begins. The tour runs daily in season (June to Sept). Private companies also run this tour. The tours run by the private companies are booked at one of the many travel agencies in town.

The KSTDC Belur, Halebid, and Sravanabelagola tour runs daily in season (April to June and Sept to Nov) and four times a week the rest of the year. There are also tours run by private operators departing almost every day. It is better to use the KSTDC tour if possible, as they use a luxury four-seats-across bus while the private companies use small, bumpy (especially if sitting in the back) minibuses. Both the private company and KSTDC tours pick you up at your hotel. This is a good way to see the sites, as they are difficult to reach by public transportation.

Money, Post & Internet
The State Bank of Mysore, at the intersection of Ashoka Rd and Irwin Rd, and their other branch at Sayaji Rao Rd, changes money quickly. The Bank of Baroda, at Gandhi Square, gives advances on MasterCard and Visa cards. Syndicate Bank, KC Circle, changes money.

The GPO is at the intersection of Irwin and Ashoka Rds. Poste restante10 am to 4 pm. There is a post office near KR Circle.

Niru Communications (432-359) has internet facilities for Rs 50 per 30 min. Coca Cola Cyber Space, Nazarbad Main Rd, has internet access for Rs 100 per hour.

Shopping
Some good bookshops are Ashok Book Centre, Dhanvantri Rd near Sayaji Rao Rd; Geetha Book House, New Statue Square, at the end of Sayaji Rao Rd; Premier Book House, Anand Vihar, Makkaji Chowk.

The Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium, on the corner of Sayaji Rao Rd and Irwin Rd, has a large collection of high quality handicrafts. Recommended. Open 10 am to 2 pm and 3.30 to 7.30 pm. Closed Thursdays. It is not cheap, but the quality is excellent. They accept credit cards and will send your purchases home for you. They have an annex shop near the Zoo.

The Government Sandalwood Oil Factory (521-889), just off Ambedkar Rd, is where about half the sandalwood oil in India is produced. You can phone and arrange a tour of the factory, which includes an explanation of how the oil is extracted and how incense is made. Open Mon to Fri 9 to 11 am and 2 to 4 pm.

The Karnataka Silk Industry Factory (521-803), on Mananthody Rd in Vidyaranyapuram, is about 3km from the downtown. You can phone and arrange a tour of the factory. Open Mon to Sat 7.30 to 11.30 am and 12.30 to 4.30 pm. From the City bus stand, bus #1A comes to here and the Sandalwood Factory.

Mysore is considered one of the best places to buy incense and sandalwood products in India. You have to be careful, however, about purchasing sandalwood products. Sandalwood oil is often put on other woods, which are then sold as real sandalwood. Real sandalwood is expensive.

Mysore Palace (Amber Vilas)
This is one of the most impressive palaces in India. The highest point of the palace is 44m (140 ft) high and the complex covers a 3.5 sq km area. Construction on the palace was begun in 1897 during the reign of Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, after the previous wooden palace had burnt down. Henry Irwin, an Englishman, was the architect. The palace was finished in 1912 at a cost of nearly Rs 4.2 million (a tremendous amount of money a hundred years ago).

You can see a few of the royal Wodeyar family’s private rooms. It has a remarkable Durbar Hall, with a 200 kg solid gold throne, usually only seen during Dussehra. The rest of the time the silver throne is on display. The Durbar Hall’s floor is inlaid with precious stones. In the Durbar Hall there are paintings of the Dussehra festival.

The palace has a carved silver door, a magnificent stained glass ceiling, and an excellent painting gallery. There are paintings of the Ramayana and Mahabharata done by Raja Ravi Varma, one of India’s most famous artists. The family jewel collection is on display. There are several temples on the grounds, including the Sweta Varahaswami Temple with its interesting gopuram.

On Sunday evenings between 7 and 8 pm, and on festival days, the building is illuminated by over 50,000 light bulbs. In another building on the palace grounds there is a Museum containing many items.

Besides temples, this palace was the most interesting building that I saw in India. It reminded me of Buckingham Palace. The former Maharaja still lives in a part of the palace, but that section is not open to the public.

The palace is open daily 10.30 am to 5.30 pm; admission Rs 10. Visitors enter only through the south gate. You can take a camel ride (Rs 10) or an elephant ride (Rs 25) around the compound.

Chamundi Hill
On top of Chamundi Hill is the Shri Chamundeswari Temple, dedicated to the consort of Lord Siva. The temple has a seven-storey, 40m high gopuram covered with intricate carvings. The tower of the temple is 300 years old, but the foundation is 2,000 years old. The deity of the goddess Chamundi is solid gold. The temple has a jeweled Nakshatra-Malike with thirty Sanskrit slokas inscribed on it. Open 7 am to 12.30 pm and 4 to 8 pm.

There is a 5m (16 ft) high statue of the demon Mahishasura near the temple. Mahishasura was slain by the goddess Chamundeswari (Durga or Parvati) to protect the area. Chamundi means “terrible”, and it is another name for Parvati when she is revealing an angry mood to slay the demon. The Godly Museum, near the Mahishasura statue, contains dioramas depicting different stages of spiritual life.

Halfway up the hill along the road is a 5m (16 ft) high, 7.5m (25 ft) long Nandi Bull carved out of a large boulder.

The Rajendrah Vilas Palace, built in 1939, is worth seeing. There is a red velvet dining room. You can also ask to see the royal bedrooms.
Chamundi Hill is 10km by road from Mysore and 1100m (3,489 ft) high. There are good views from on top of the hill. You can walk the 4km to the top of the hill, which entails climbing about 1,000 steps (takes approximately 2 hr), or you can take a bus up and walk down.

City bus #101 comes here (Rs 3, every half-hour) from the City bus stand. A taxi up the hill will cost about Rs 150.

Jaganmohan Palace (1861)
This interesting palace contains the Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery. It has a collection of Raja Ravi Varma’s oil paintings,

Gaganendranath Tagore’s watercolors, musical instruments, old silk board games, and an elephant tusk with the life of Buddha carved on it. Open daily 10 am to 5 pm. Admission Rs 10.

Mysore Zoo
This large, 250-acre zoo displays tigers (including a white tiger), gorillas, white peacocks, lemurs, bears, and other animals. Open daily except Fri 8.30 am to 5.30 pm. Admission Rs 8 for adults, Rs 2 for children between 5 and 10.

Other Places
Devaraja Fruit and Vegetable Market is a happening, fast-moving bazaar.

Lalitha Mahal Palace (1921), in the east part of town, is an interesting palace that has been converted into a luxury hotel. It is worth seeing.
St. Philomena’s Cathedral (1933-41) is one of the biggest churches in India. It is built in the neo-Gothic style and has some grand stained glass windows.

There are some architecturally interesting buildings in Mysore. Wellington Lodge is where the Duke of Wellington stayed after defeating Tipu Sultan. The Government House (1805), which was formerly the British Residency, has a large garden.

Near the north gate of the Palace are the Rangacharlu Memorial Hall (1884) and the Silver Jubilee Clocktower (1927).

There is a Railway Museum, which includes an interesting hundred-year-old railway carriage. Open 10 am to 1 pm and 3 to 5 pm.

Dussehra (Dasara) Festival
The 10-day Dussehra Festival, at the end of September or beginning of October, is the most important festival. It symbolizes the victory of Chamundi (Durga) over the demon Mahishasura. The festival lasts ten days, during which time a cart festival is held on top of Chamundi Hill and a boat festival is held in the tank at the bottom of the hill. The highlight of the festival is when the former Maharaja goes through the streets in a grand procession with elephants and camels. At the end, there is a huge fireworks display. The Mysore Palace is illuminated every night during the festival.
It is difficult to find accommodations during the Dussehra Festival, so book well in advance.

Where to Stay—Lower
Mysore is a popular tourist spot with many reasonably priced, but often booked, hotels. The main areas for the budget hotels are Vinoba Rd, Dhanvantri Rd, and Gandhi Square.
There are good Retiring Rooms at the railway station.
Hotel Sangeeth (424-693), 1966 Narayana Shastry Rd, is a clean budget place with rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 150/225. It is a good value. 
Gayatri Bhavan (421-224), nearby on Dhanvantri Rd, has rooms with common bath for Rs 70/125 and doubles from Rs 150 to Rs 200.
Hotel Indra Bhavan (423-923; fax 422-290), Dhanvantri Rd, has clean, quiet rooms with bath for Rs 150/200 to Rs 300. It has a good A/C vegetarian restaurant. Popular.
Agrawal Lodge (422-730), just off Dhanvantri Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 150/200.
Hotel Ashraya (427-088) has good rooms with bath for Rs 150/350.
Hotel Anugraha (430-768), at the junction of Sardar Patel Rd and Sayaji Rao Rd, is a good value. Rooms with bath are Rs 125/200.
Hotel Mannars (35060), by Gandhi Square, is a good, clean place in a relatively quiet area. Rooms with bath and TV are Rs 175/250.
Hotel Dasaprakash (442-444; fax 443-456), near Gandhi Square, built around a central courtyard, is popular with middle-class Indians. It has clean rooms for Rs 150/300 to Rs 200/425 and Rs 650 for a family room. It has a good vegetarian (thali only) restaurant. 24-hr checkout.
The popular Hotel Park Lane (430-400; fax 428-424), 2720 Sri Harsha Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 125/170 to Rs 180/210. It is a clean, pleasant, quiet place located next to a small park.
Hotel SCVDS (421-379), next to the Hotel Park Lane, has modern rooms with bath and TV for Rs 250/400. They often give discounts.
Hotel Calinga (431-310; fax 428-424), 23 KR Circle, opposite the City bus stand in the southern part of town, has rooms with hot water for Rs 225/300 and Rs 300/400 for a room with a TV. It is a good place.
The well-managed Hotel Maurya (426-677), Hanumantha Rao St, off Sardar Patel Rd, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 140/225. It is a good value.

Where to Stay—Middle
KSTDC Hotel Mayura Hoysala (425-349), 2 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, by the railway station, has large rooms with bath for Rs 300/450 and suites for Rs 650. It has a garden. The bus tours run by KSTDC start here, and Indian Airlines have their office in this hotel.
Mysore Hotel Complex (426-217), near the bus stand, is a big place with rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350 to Rs 900. The more expensive rooms have A/C and a TV. It is built like an American motel, and I would recommend it if you do not mind the impersonal design. It is mainly used by middle-class Indians.
Hotel Roopa (33770), nearby on Bangalore-Nilgiri Rd, has rooms for Rs 300/350 up to Rs 600 for a room with a TV.
Hotel Sree Krishna Continental (37042), 73 Nazarbad Main Rd, has rooms for Rs 350 and rooms with A/C for Rs 650.
Ritz Hotel (422-668), Nilgiri Road, near the Central bus stand, has good British-Raj style rooms with a nice atmosphere for Rs 350 to Rs 500. It is a small place and is usually booked. Reservations must be made at least a month in advance.
Hotel Siddharta (522-999; fax 520-692), 73/1 Government Guest House Rd, near the long-distance Central bus station, is a good, centrally located place with a vegetarian restaurant. It has rooms for Rs 500/600 and Rs 650/750 with A/C.
Hotel Palace Plaza (430-034; fax 520-639), 2716 Sri Harsha Rd, has large, clean, comfortable rooms with bath and a TV ranging from Rs 350 to Rs 800. Recommended and popular, so best to reserve in advance.
Hotel Rajendravilas Imperial (520-690) is on top of Chamundi Hill, 14km from town. The Maharaja of Mysore used to stay here on weekends. It is a splendid-looking place with a good view of the city. Rooms are Rs 350/500 and Rs 400/600 with A/C. It has a pool open to non-guest for Rs 100.
Dasaprakash Paradise (515-565; 514-400), 105 Vivekananda Rd, a few km from the downtown, is recommended. Clean rooms are Rs 950/1050 and Rs 1200/1500 with A/C. The vegetarian restaurant here is very good.

Where to Stay—Higher
Kings Kourt Hotel (421-142; fax 438-384), junction of Vinoba Rd and Jhansi Lakshmi Bhai Rd, is a nice, modern place with A/C rooms for Rs 1500/1800. It has more expensive rooms and is very popular.
Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (571-265; fax 571-770), T Narasipur Rd, is a recommended place about 8km from the center of town. It is such a nice hotel that it is worth visiting as a tourist site. The Maharaja built it as a guest house. Rooms go for $140/160 all the way up to $600 for the Viceroy Suite. The name of the hotel means “beautiful building.”
Viceroy (424-001; fax 433-391), is a new, business-type modern hotel with rooms for Rs 700 and Rs 1000 with A/C. Rooms have a good view of the park.
Green Hotel (512-536; fax 516-139), 2270 Vinoba Rd, Jaya Lakshimipuram, is a former palace with a nice garden. It has large rooms for Rs 1400. There are also rooms in an annex. It is a good place.
Southern Star Mysore (438-141; fax 421-689), 13-14 Vinoba Rd, has comfortable rooms from Rs 2300/3000 up to Rs 5500. It has a bookshop and a swimming pool.
Hotel Metropole (520-871; fax 520-854), 5 Jhansi Lakshmi Bai Rd, by Vinoba Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 995/1090, Rs 1090/1200 for an A/C room and Rs 1200 for the deluxe suite. It was once the Maharaja’s guesthouse, so it is a fancy place with old-world charm, and at this level, is a recommended place. It has a well-kept garden and a nice verandah.

Where to Eat
Kwality Restaurant, Dhanvantri Rd, serves Indian and Chinese food.
Mylari Tiffin Room, in the Hotel Mahadeswara, Nazarbad Main Rd, has good South Indian food. Great dosas are served in the morning only. Recommended.
Shilpashri Restaurant, Gandhi Square, serves good Indian, Continental, and Chinese food. It is a popular rooftop place (Rs 50 main dish).
Regency Restaurant, in the Hotel Metropole, has a good garden restaurant (Rs 175 for a meal). The service is good.
Indra Paras Café, Sayaji Rao Rd, has good South and North Indian vegetarian food.
Ritz Hotel, near the Central bus stand, has an outdoor restaurant that serves Indian, Continental, and Chinese food.
Park Lane Hotel, Sri Harsha Rd, has a popular outdoor restaurant.
Ilapur, 2721/1 Sri Harsha Rd, is a high-class place specializing in Andhra and Chinese cuisine.
Quality Inn Southern Star has good breakfast and lunch buffets.
Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel has an excellent restaurant, with classical Indian music performed at night. A meal here costs about Rs 400.

Where to Eat—Vegetarian
Akshaya Restaurant, in the Dasaprakash Hotel, Gandhi Square, has good, inexpensive thalis.
Dasaprakash Paradise, about 5km out of the city center, is one the best restaurants in town and serves good ice cream.
Hotel Siddhartha, 73/1 Guest House Rd, about a half km from the long-distance bus station, has a good vegetarian restaurant. One part of the restaurant serves thalis and the other serves North Indian side orders. Very popular.
Samrat, in the Hotel Indra Bhavan, Dhanvantri Rd, has good, cheap, individual and thali meals for about Rs 60.

Local Travel and Travel Agencies
You can arrange a tourist taxi for the day with the KSTDC for about Rs 3.5 per km plus Rs 100 for the driver.

Buses from the City bus stand go to Chamundi Hill (Rs 3, every half-hour) #201, #101; Srirangapatnam (Rs 3, every half-hour) #125 and #313; Brindavan Gardens (Rs 3, every half-hour) #150, #303, and #304.

An established travel agency is Siddharta Tours and Travels (34155), Hotel Siddharta, 73 Guest House Rd, Nazabad. Seagull Travels (529-732; fax 34653), in the Hotel Ramanshree, is a good travel agency and books high-end trips the wildlife parks.

Travel
Air The closest airport is in Bangalore, 138km away. Indian Airlines office (516-9432), next to the Hotel Mayura Hoysala (Mon to Sat 10 am to 1.30 pm and 2.15 to 5 pm).

Train There are several daily trains to Bangalore (138km). The Tipu Exp #6205 (11.20 am, 2¼ hr) and the A/C Shatabdi Exp #2008 (2.10 pm, 2 hr) are the fastest trains to Bangalore. Other express trains take about 3½ hr. The Shatabdi Exp continues to Chennai (7 hr). The Mysore-Thanjavur Exp #6232 (4.20 pm) goes to Thanjavur (15 hr) via Tiruchchirapalli (13 hr).
There is a slow train that goes north to Belur and Halebid via Hassan. There is also a train to Mangalore. There is a new broad-gauge line through Mysore, so new trains will be added to the schedule.

The City railway station, just off Irwin Rd, is close to the center of town. The Advance Reservations counters (Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, Sun 8 am to 2 pm), off the main lobby, takes care of tourist inquiries and bookings. The Commercial Superintendent’s Office across the street deals with tourist quota reservations.

Bus There are three bus stations in Mysore: the Central bus stand on B-N Rd (Irwin Rd), used mainly for long-distance buses; City bus stand, for local buses; and a Private (also called Suburban) bus stand, for private buses (across from the Ritz Hotel, a little south of the Central bus stand). There is a cloakroom at the Central bus stand where you can leave your bags if you are only visiting Mysore for the day.

Buses from Mysore go to Bangalore (3 hr, every 15 min, nonstop), Mangalore (7 hr, eight daily), Hassan (3 hr, twelve daily), Hospet (12 hr, three daily), Kochi (7 hr, eight daily), Ooty (5 hr, ten daily), Ernakulam (12 hr, three daily), Gokarna (14 hr, one daily, 6 am), Thrissur (8 hr, two daily) via Guruvayur (7 hr), Tirupati, and Madurai.
There are frequent buses from the Central bus stand to Srirangapatnam. The #125 bus from the City bus stand, which is northwest of the Palace, goes to Srirangapatnam. Buses to Somnathpur depart from the Private bus stand (1 hr direct or longer via Bannur or Narasipur).

Private luxury buses go to Hassan and Ooty. Gayatri Tourism, opposite the Ritz Hotel, books long-distance buses.

If you know of a informationthat is not correct or if you would like to help update our listings, please e-mail us at:

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