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Varkala

Pop: 42,000, Area Code: 0472

Varkala is on the seashore about 54km northwest of Thiruvananthapuram and 20km south of Kollam (Quilon). Its beaches are nice and not as crowded as the beaches at Kovalam. Varkala is popular with travelers and backpackers. It has a private, but still fairly crowded small beach, so it is not ideal for someone looking for total seclusion. There is a mineral water spring on the beach. Most people who visit Varkala recommend it.
Pilgrims come to Varkala to see the famous Janardan Swami Temple. The beach here is known as Papa Nashini (“Sin destroyer”) in the Malayalam language. Devotees at the Janardan temple carry the ashes of departed family members and place them in the sea at this place.

Information
The privately run Tourist Helping Centre, Mama House, can provide information about the area, arrange elephant trips, and help with motorbike rentals. The elephant trip goes through the forest 30km away (Rs 900, which includes travel costs and food). They also arrange backwater trips which include lunch for Rs 700.

The Scientific School of Yoga and Massage (695-141) offers a ten-day yoga and massage course taught by an English-speaking doctor. It also has a shop, Prakruthi Sores, that sells Ayurvedic oils, herbs, handmade soaps, and books on yoga and massage. They give a one hour massage using Ayurvedic or Swedish techniques for Rs 200 per hour.

The Progressive Yoga Centre offers a one-week yoga course and a one-week massage course. They give Ayurvedic massages for Rs 200 for an hour.

The Sri Janardan Temple and the beach are a five-minute auto-rickshaw ride from downtown.
The State Bank of Travancore will exchange travelers cheques, but will not exchange cash. The Federal Bank changes money. There is an exchange counter at the Taj Garden Retreat. The Bureau de Change (602-749), near the temple, changes money and rents taxis (daily 9 am to 9 pm).

Sri Janardan Temple
This famous Vishnu temple is a few km from town, on the edge of a coconut forest near a low cliff overlooking the sea. The temple is about 1km from the ocean. The four-armed Deity of Sri Janardan (Lord Vishnu) stands 1.2m (4 ft) high and wears the dress of a different Vishnu incarnation each day. After mangala-arati (5 am) the doors stay open while the Deity is bathed before the assembled devotees. This large temple is said to be over 2,000 years old.

The famous Papanasam spring rises at the foot of the steps on the north side of the temple. It then flows into the temple tank and flows gently a half km to the sea. The area by the temple is peaceful.

Kathakali Dance
There are Kathakali dance performances at the Devaswom building next to the temple tank. Putting on makeup starts are 5 pm and performances begin at 7 pm on Wed, Fri and Sun during December and January for Rs 75.

Where to Stay
Most of the hotels are on the cliff above the beach. Some people rent basic private houses.
Government Guest House (402-227), near the Taj Hotel, has seven simple, big rooms for Rs 70. This place used to be a summer residence for a maharaja and is a very good value. Best to book in advance.
ITDC Tourist Home is a basic, cheap, clean place.
Green House, on the cliff top, has rooms for Rs 250 to Rs 350.
Hill Top Beach Resort (411-737), north end of the cliff, is a new, clean place overlooking the beach in a quiet location. Rooms are Rs 250 to Rs 350.
Prasanthi Guest House, north end of the cliff, has nice rooms with common bath for Rs 300. It is run by the people at the Cafe Italiano.
Hill Palace has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 125 and with bath for Rs 175.
Mamma Hotel, Beach Rd, past the Akshay by the beach, is a converted farmhouse with shared toilets and well water. It is the cheapest place in Varkala.
Directly opposite is the Beach Palace, which has a good location, but is really basic. Rooms are Rs 125/150.
Varkala Marine Palace (603-204), behind the beach, is a recommended middle-class place with modern, comfortable rooms overlooking the beach for Rs 250 to Rs 600. A/C Rooms with a balcony and a sea view are Rs 600. It is a good value. It has a restaurant that overlooks the beach. Good off-season discount.
JA Tourist Home (602-453), in the town of Varkala, has rooms for Rs 100 to Rs 200. It is a good value.
Anandan Tourist Home (602-135), opposite the railway station, has modern rooms for Rs 125/200 and A/C rooms with TV for Rs 400.
Balaji Lodge (402-243) is a basic place with rooms for Rs 125/150, but it is not a good value.

Where to Stay—Middle to Higher
Akshay Beach Resort (602-668), Beach Rd, has good clean rooms that are a bit small for Rs 150 with common bath, Rs 300 with bath and A/C rooms for Rs 600. It is a good middle-class place, just 200m from the beach.
Clafouti (601-414; fax 600-494), at the north end of the cliff is good new budget place. Recommended.
Eden Garden (603-910; fax 481-004) has rooms for Rs 450. It has a scenic location.
The new Panchavadi Beach Resort (602-157), Beach Rd, has rooms with hot water for Rs 400 and Rs 750 for a deluxe room.
Udatha Cliff Hostel (3298), on the clifftop, has comfortable rooms with common bath for Rs 500 and rooms with bath on the top floor for Rs 800. A room downstairs is Rs 250. It has a restaurant.
The new Sea Pearl Chalets (660-105; fax 605-049) has rooms for Rs 500 and a room overlooking the beach is Rs 600.
Preethi (600-942) is a new place with clean rooms for Rs 600, a room with hot water and a balcony Rs 800 and a cottage is Rs 1500.
Taj Varkala Beach Resort (603-000; fax 602-296), 500m from the beach, is the best place in town. It has an excellent view, a restaurant, a pool, health club, tennis courts, and a landscaped garden with palm trees overlooking the beach. A/C rooms are $105/120 and $120/140 from the middle of December to the end of February.

Where to Eat
Shri Padman, next to the temple tank, is a popular place, despite its appearance. It has good, cheap, veg food.
The Oottupura Vegetarian Restaurant is a vegetarian place located near the Helipad.
JA Tourist Hotel has a good rooftop restaurant serving Western food, including pasta, pizza, and bread.
Café Italiano, Prasanthi Guest House, has good pizza, spaghetti, and bread.
Anandan Tourist Home, opposite the railway station, has a restaurant.
Mama Chompos Pizzeria, Beach Rd, has good pizza, pasta, and bread. Recommended.

Travel
Train Varkala is a 50-minute train ride northwest of Thiruvananthapuram (41km). It is then a 2km ride (Rs 15) to the village from the station. A rickshaw to the beach costs Rs 30 and a taxi Rs 50.

There are eight trains a day to Thiruvananthapuram and two trains a day to Kanyakumari (11.10 am and 2.05 pm). There are also trains to Kollam (1 hr), Ernakulam (4 hr), Kottayam (2 hr), Madurai (8 hr), Mumbai (46 hr), Bangalore (18 hr) and Mangalore.

Bus and Taxi There are regular buses to Varkala from Thiruvananthapuram’s Thampa­noor Bus Stand (1½ hr). From Varkala there are buses to Kovalam, Alappuzha and Kollam (40 min).
A taxi from Thiruvananthapuram to Varkala is about Rs 300.

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