Ladakh

Population: 170,000
Capital: Leh
Area: 98,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: May to September
Main Languages Ladakhi, Kashmiri and Dogri
Literacy Rate: 26%

Located between the western Himalaya and Tibet, Ladakh is one of the most secluded areas in India, if not the world. It is a region in the state of Jammu and Kashmir and is a sparsely populated, high-altitude desert, situated at an elevation between 2,500m and 4,500m. The passes are between 4,500m and 6,000m high.

The area has a Buddhist and Tibetan influence. All around are prayer wheels, chortens (the equivalent of Buddhist stupas), colorful prayer flags, and Buddhist gompas (monasteries). One of the highlights of the area is the friendliness (actual), helpfulness, and politeness of the people. Ladakh is known at “Little Tibet,” or the last Shangri-La.

The most visited place in Ladakh is the interesting and atmospheric town of Leh. Ladakh is divided into three main regions: the area around Leh and the Indus Valley, the Zanskar Valley, and the Kargil and Suru Valley, which is influenced by Muslim culture. Most people with whom I talked to enjoyed their trip to Ladakh and recommended it.

South of Ladakh is the main Himalaya mountain range, which includes Kun (7087m) and Nun (7135m) Mountains. In the north is the Zanskar mountain range. The Stok mountain range is just south of Leh. There are several lakes in eastern Ladakh, including Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri (tso means “lake”). The Zanskar and Sur Rivers flow through Ladakh. 

Unless you fly, Ladakh can only be visited when the road is open, from late June through the middle of October. During this time, the days are warm and the nights a bit cool. It is a good idea to bring a sleeping bag. There is very little rain in Ladakh, so it is a good place to visit in July and August, during the rainy season in the rest of India. Between December and February, temperatures can drop to –30ºC in Leh and –50ºC in other areas. One thing to note is that Ladakh is situated at a high altitude. Therefore, it is a good idea to spend a day or two acclimatizing upon your arrival in Leh.

History
Buddhism first arrived in Ladakh in the 3rd century BC via missionaries sent by Emperor Ashoka. Tsong Khapa from Tibet introduced to Ladakh in the late 14th century the Buddhist Gelukpa (“Yellow Hat”) order, headed by the Dalai Lama. The order became popular and the gompas at Spituk, Likir, and Tikse were founded.

In 533, Soyang Namgyal took control of the area and made his capital Leh. In the 16th century, Ali Mir of Baltistan threatened to take control of the area, but Tashi Namgyal (1555–70) kept the area an independent kingdom. Singe Namgyal (1570–1642), the next ruler, constructed many buildings in Leh and also founded the Hemis Monastery. In the 17th century, a Mongol-Tibetan army attacked Ladakh. The Kashmiri governor gave aid to save the situation, and in return, a mosque was built in Leh and tribute had to be paid. The kingdom then became a part of the Mughal Empire.

In the 1830s the Dogra army from Jammu attacked Ladakh. The Maharaja of Kashmir took control of the area at this time and exiled the Ladakhi king to Stok. Ladakh became a part of India in 1948.

Language
Julay (joo-lay) is a good word to know. It is a general greeting that means hello, thank you, good-bye and please.
thank you - thugishi
wheren - karwayot
yes - kasa
no - man
good - demo
how much - tsam
chhu - water

Tourist Entry Tax
Foreign tourists must pay $10 to enter Ladakh, which is paid when you enter (at Upshi if you are taking the road from Manali). You pay it at the airport if you arrive on a flight. There is a $20 fee to visit certain regions such as Pangaong Tso, Dha-Hahu, Tso Moriri and Nubra Valley.

Ladakh Summer Festivals
Most of the Buddhist festivals in Ladakh are held during the winter months. Some monasteries now do summer festivals. The exact dates are calculated by the Tibetan lunar calendar, so the dates change each year. Tourist offices in Leh can provide current dates.

Festival of Ladakh  
Put on by J&KTDC tourism has Ladakhi dances, archery contests and other events. It takes place in August/September.

Lamayuru Gompa has a festival in April/May.
Hemis Gompa has chaam dances and is the biggest event of the years in June.
Phyang Gompa has chaam dances and the opening of a giant thangka in July.
Tikse Gompa has chaam dances in late August.

In the Area of Leh
Without having a local Ladakhi guide with you, you may not be allowed to enter certain gompas.

Spituk Gompa
The 15th century Spituk Gompa of the Gelukpa order, 11km west of Leh, is on top of a hill overlooking the Indus River. There are good Buddha statues in the two prayer rooms, which are shown only once a year, usually in January. You will need a flashlight (torch) to see some of the 600-year-old wall paintings. This monastery has a good collection of masks and weapons.

There are great views from the roof.
Higher up the hill is the 17th century Mahakala Temple, which has a shrine dedicated to Vajrabhairava, whose terrifying face is only shown once a year during the festival in January.
Buses from Leh going west on the main road to Srinagar pass here. It is a nice bike ride to this place, although walking is not as nice because you have to pass a long, fenced-in military area. Round trip by taxi is about Rs 225.

Choglamsar
Located here are the Tibetan Refugee Camps, a Tibetan library, the Institute of Buddhist Studies and a bookshop. There are buses from Leh that pass by this place. From Leh a round trip taxi is about Rs 225.

Stok Gompa and Museum
The Stok Gompa (1814), 10km south of Leh, has some nice paintings and masks.

The 19th century, four-storey Stok Palace has been the home of the Ladakhi royal family since they were exiled from Leh in 1834. The royal family still lives here, but one wing of the palace is now used as a museum displaying items that belong to the family. It contains some valuable 16th century thangkas, jewelry, traditional clothing, and royal peraks (headdresses). Open in the summer 8 am to 6 pm; admission Rs 25. It is a popular place.

There are some nice walks around the palace that have some good views.

Hotel Highland is a good mid-range place that has good views. There is a really basic dirty guest house.

Ladakh Sarai has expensive luxury tents in a peaceful location for $160. It has good Ladakhi food. Book with Mountain Travel India, 1/1 Rani Jhansi Rd, New Delhi 110055 (011 752-5357; 777-7483)

From Leh (45 min) there are direct buses to here at 7.30 am, 2 pm and 4 pm. A roundtrip taxi to here is Rs 400. You can also come here by mountain bike or motorcycle.

Shey
Shey, 15km southeast of Leh, used to be the summer capital of the Ladakhi kings. It has been almost deserted since the Dogras removed the Ladakhi royal family in 1834. The former summer palace of the Ladakhi kings is on a ridge. In its temple (6 to 9 am) there is a huge 17m (55 ft) high statue of Shakyamuni Buddha. From upstairs you can see the Buddha’s face. There are impressive paintings in the temple.

The Shey Gompa, a five-minute walk from the palace, has a good collection of thangkas, mani walls, stupas, and a small library. Inside is a 12m high statue of Shakyamuni Buddha made of copper that is gold-plated. Open all day; admission Rs 20. Prayers from 7 to 9 am and 5 to 6 pm.

Next to the highway are rock carvings of the five Tathagata Buddhas, believed to have been carved around the 8th century.

This place and Tikse can easily be visited on the same trip.

Shil Kar Hotel and Restaurant, near the gompa, has rooms with bath for Rs 175. Regular buses from Leh pass by here. A taxi roundtrip to here is around Rs 275.

Tikse Gompa
Tikse Gompa, 20km southeast of Leh, is the most architecturally impressive gompa in Ladakh and is the most photographed. Founded in the 15th century, it belongs to the Gelukpa order. It has a good collection of thangkas, a Maitreya temple, an excellent collection of Tibetan books, and a small shop. The Maitreya temple, inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 1980, has a huge, 14m high statue of the Buddha-to-come and some nice paintings depicting the life of Maitreya. The Du-khang main hall, up some steps, has ancient paintings. The huge thangkas are unrolled once a year during the Chaam dance festival, Tikse Gustor, in Oct-Nov.

There is almost constant chanting. You can get a good view from the roof. During the pujas (around 6 am and noon) Tibetan trumpets and drums are played. Open daily 7 am to 6 pm; admission Rs 15. You need permission to use a video camera. 
Skalzang Chamba Hotel is a nice place with a garden. Rooms are Rs 150, which includes meals. Persons studying Buddhism are often allowed to stay at the gompa. Buses from Leh depart to here regularly. A roundtrip taxi from Leh is Rs 400.

Matho Gompa
This gompa, 26km south of Leh, belonging to the Saskyapa order, was built in the 16th century. There is the yearly Matho Nagran Festival here where two monks (oracles known as rongzams) go into a trace and inflict wounds upon their own bodies which leave no physical trace. Then chaam dances are held in the courtyard and the oracles make predictions about the coming year. This festival takes place on the 25th and 26th days of the second Tibetan month (Feb-March). There is a museum with costumes and masks behind the Du-khang. Men can view the weapons and costumes of the oracles in a room on the roof.
There are buses departing from Leh to Matho Gompa at 9 am and 4 pm, and returning at 10 am and 6 pm. You can also go first to Stakna gompa, then walk here, or visit this gompa on the way to Stok and Hemis.

Stakna Gompa
This gompa belonging to the Drukpa order is in a great location. There are good paintings in the back-temple. You need a flashlight to see them. Regular buses pass by here. From the road it is a half-hour walk up a steep hill. There are good views from this place. A roundtrip taxi from Leh costs Rs 650.

Hemis Gompa
Hemis Gompa, 45km south of Leh, was founded in the 17th century by the Drukpa order. It is also known as Chang-Chub-Sam-Ling (“Lone Place of the Compassionate Person”). It is the largest and one of the most popular gompas. There are some great views of the mountains from here.
The gompa has good statues of the Buddha, nice paintings, a good library, and a 12m-long thangka (the longest in Ladakh). The thangka is shown only once every twelve years, the next time being in 2004. Open 7 am to 7 pm. If you stay overnight, you can view the interesting early morning puja (worship).

The Hemis Festival is held to honor the birth of the famous Indian Buddhist, Padmasambhava, on the ninth and eleventh days of the fifth Tibetan month, in late June or early July. During this festival, chaam dances are performed by monks in elaborate outfits and masks portraying Buddhist pastimes. On the second day of the festival a dummy has its head cut off to symbolize the end of the human ego and the victory of Buddhism over evil. The locals come dressed in their best traditional outfits. 

The Kotsang Hermitage Gompa is a pleasant hour (3km) walk away.

There is the basic East West Guesthouse in the village with rooms for Rs 175. There are some two-person tents next to the gompa for Rs 80 and you can set up your own tent for Rs 60. There are daily buses from Leh to Hemis at 9 am and 4 pm. From Hemis to Leh buses depart at 6.30 am and 12.30 pm. A roundtrip taxi from Leh costs Rs 900.

North and East Ladakh
These areas were opened for the first time to foreign tourist in 1994.

An organized tour is both the easiest and the most expensive way to visit, but considering the lack of facilities and transportation in these areas, a tour may be recommended. Be alert to the quality of the jeep and equipment that will be used on the tour. Unless you ask several times, “Are you giving me a good jeep and facilities?” you often do not receive them. Expect to pay about $20 a day for an upmarket tour.

In Nubra Valley there are places to stay, but you probably would want to bring some food, as there is little to choose from. Warm clothes and a sleeping bag are needed because the temperatures get very cold at night. In high altitudes, there is a tendency to sunburn easily, so sunscreen is advised. The electricity in these areas is unreliable, so a flashlight (plus batteries) and candles are needed.

Permits
Permits are required to visit these areas in Ladakh, including Nubra Valley, Tso Moriri, Pangaong Tso, and the Dha-Hanu region.
The permit must be shown at checkpoints, and hotels may also ask to see the permit.

You must apply with four other people to receive a permit, although the four people do not have to travel together. Permits are valid for seven days. To get the four people required, you could leave notices around Leh or pay a travel agent to help you.

To obtain the permit, first get a letter of introduction from a travel agency (about Rs 60). You will also need a copy of the information pages of your passport and the page with your Indian visa stamp. Then go to the District Magistrate’s Office in Leh (open daily except Sun 10 am to 4 pm). Or pay a travel agent Rs 100 to get the permit for you.

Climate
Depending on the region, the maximum and minimum temperatures vary. The average summer and winter temperature in different areas are: Pangong Tso –12ºC to 18ºC summer, and –25ºC to 5ºC winter; Dha-Hanu –3ºC to 29ºC summer and –15ºC to 15ºC winter; Tso Moriri –10ºC to 17ºC summer and –22ºC to 17ºC winter; Nubra Valley –3ºC to 28ºC summer and –15ºC to 15ºC winter.

Nubra Valley
Nubra Valley is an interesting place with wide, empty valleys. To get to Nubra Valley, you must pass over Kardung La (5600m), the highest pass on a motorable road in the world. The pass is usually extremely cold year-round. There are good viewpoints near the pass. The permit to visit this valley lasts only seven days and enables visitors to go only as far as Hunder and Panamik.

There are several small villages here, usually with monasteries above them. The population in the valley is 90% Buddhist. The main monastery in the valley is in Sumur. Panamik has hot springs. Near Hunder there are high-altitude, double-humped camels. There are several festivals in Nubra Valley, which include a camel safari from Diskit to Hunder.

Khalsar
Wisnu Hotel has really basic rooms for Rs 90.
L Tonyot has basic rooms. It has good rice and dhal meals.

Diskit
There are over fifty monks at the 350-year-old Diskit Gompa. It is the biggest gompa in the Nubra Valley. There are some good views from the roof. It takes about thirty minutes to walk to the gompa from the village.

There are Sahara-type sand dunes between Diskit and Hunder.

Shahen Hotel, in the village, has really basic rooms for Rs 90. Sand Dune Guest House is good place with rooms for Rs 125/175. Happy Valley Guest House has some rooms and a place to camp.
Olthang Guest House has good rooms with bath for Rs 225 and an area for camping. Bucket hot water. It has a garden.

Buses go from Diskit to Leh on Saturday mornings. You should get a ticket from the bus conductor when the bus arrives on Friday night, or all the tickets may be sold when you try to get on the bus in the morning.

There is a bus to Sumur and Panamik on Thursday and Sunday.

Hunder
Hunder, 7km from Kisket, is a nice village. There is a gompa in Hunder above the village. It is deserted, but the views from it are good. From Hunder, it is possible to take a camel safari to Panamik village, where there are hot springs, and then to visit the old monastery in the village of Samtanling.

There is no electricity. Some people walk between Disket and Hunder, either on the road or over the sand dunes, but you have to be careful of wild camels. There are no buses to Hunder.

Tsering Nerchungpa has rooms in his house for Rs 250, which includes meals. It has a good garden. It is hard to find, so you have to ask how to get to it. You can camp in the area.

Sumur
This is a beautiful area. The Samtam Ling Gompa, 3km from the village of Sumur, was established by the Dalai Lama in 1962. It has good paintings, a large statue of Shakyamuni, and a great collection of thangkas. The morning and evening pujas are interesting. It is an active, friendly place. There is also the Tegar Gompa.

Practicalities
Tsering Angchok Hotel is a really basic place for Rs 100 per person.

Stakrey Guest House has rooms for Rs 250 per person that includes meals.

Hotel Yarab Tso, across from the road that leads to the Samtam Ling Gompa, near the village of Tegar, has large clean rooms with hot water for Rs 1200. It is overpriced.

Samtam Ling Gompa has basic facilities for Buddhist students (males only).

There are some places here where you can get limited supplies.
Buses go to Leh (8hr, Tues & Thurs), Diskit (4 hr, Thurs & Sun) and Panamik (1½ hr, Mon & Wed).

Panamik (Panamic)
Panamik is known for its Hot Springs, which are said to cure various ailments. This village is as far north as a foreign tourist can go. There are some handicraft shops in the village.

The Ensa Gompa is a difficult, two or three-hour walk from the village. The gompa is usually closed, but there may be a monk present who can let you in to see the old wall paintings. You have to walk 5km to Hargam, then cross the bridge. It is highly advised not to wade or swim across the river, but to take the bridge. 

There is a guesthouse here with rooms for Rs 225. There is no electricity. Buses going to Sumur also stop here.

Travel to the Nubra Valley
The road to the valley is only open from June to September.

Bus Every few days a bus from Leh goes to the Nubra Valley. There is a bus between Leh and Diskit on Monday and Friday that take around 6 hours. A bus departs Leh to Sumur and Panamik on Monday and Wednesday at 5.30 am. There is a bus between Diskit and Panamik on Monday and Wednesday.

Taxi The best way to get around is by taxi. To go to Diskit is Rs 3500 one way and Rs 4500 roundtrip, plus extra for driving around, so you can expect to pay over Rs 5200. If you can get a taxi from Diskit they will charge around Rs 1100 to go to places in the area.

Truck A good way to get around is to get a ride on a truck. You usually have to pay about the same as the bus fare. Even military vehicles will pick you up. It is best to arrange a truck ride the night before.

Pangong Tso
Pangong Tso is a salty lake at 4300m with peaks rising around it up to 6500m. It is 150km long and 4km wide at its widest point. Only about one-fourth of the lake is in India; the rest is in Tibet. Permits are required to visit. The permit allows you to go to Pangong Tso via Kuru, Taktok Chang La, Durbuk, and Tangtse. Lukung and Spangmik on the northwest side of the lake are as far as you can go.

Practicalities
The only guesthouse is in Tangtse, which is also for government officials. To visit this area you need a tent. The official campsites are in Durbuk, Tangtse, Lukung and Spangmik. Lukung is a good area to camp at. You can also camp in other places. There are barely any places to get supplies, so you will have to bring your own.
To get to the lake you will have to come in a four-wheel drive vehicle as the road can be really bad. Roundtrip to the lake costs around Rs 3500. If you want to spend a couple days expect to pay around Rs 5000.

Tso Moriri Lake
Tso Moriri Lake is about 150km from Leh at an elevation of about 4000m. It is a bumpy, six-hour trip by jeep from Leh. The lake is about 27km long and 8km at the widest point. The area is relaxing, and there are gompas near the lake. There is also a good selection of wildlife in the area, including foxes, wild asses (kiangs), marmots, and bar-headed geese. Between Leh and Tso Moriri, there is another lake called Tso Kar.

You must show your permits and register in the small village of Tso Moriri, next to the lake. You can camp there. 

At Karzok, 4km from the village of Tso Moriri, there is a gompa built in 1850. It is unusual because approximately thirty women live at the gompa. Most gompas are mainly only inhabited by men.

Next to Tso Kar lake is a gompa in the village of Thukjse.

Practicalities
The only place to stay in the area is in a tent. There is a tent camp at the village of Tso Moriri that has two-person tents for Rs 1000. You have to bring your own food and supplies.
You have to come here in a four-wheel drive jeep. Tso Moriri is a hard place to get to by yourself, as there are no signs and there are few people to ask directions.

Treks in Ladakh
The reks in Ladakh are some of the most interesting in the Himalayas. Most of them are long, difficult, and cross high-elevation passes. Trekking can be done in Ladakh from the end of June until about the middle of October. It is best to spend a few days in Leh to acclimatize to the high elevation.

Travel agencies in Leh can arrange full facilities for about $50 per day. You can hire packhorses at Spituk and Lamayuru for about Rs 200 to Rs 250 per day. It is best to bring your own sleeping bag and tent.

Even on a package tour, equipment is often substandard, so you may want to check the equipment before you set off and hire your own if necessary. I have heard some bad stories of what can happen if you have a bad tent in the rain. Food should be carried, as some places have virtually no supplies.

Equipment can be rented from the J&KTDC Tourist Office or at Himalayan Adventures in the Hotel Ibex.

Likir to Temisgan
You start at Likir Gompa and then go over a pass to the village of Yantang (5 hr), near the Rizdong Gompa. You go through the village of Hemis (3 hr) and walk to the roadhead at Tamisgan (4 hr). It is possible to do this trek in one day if you walk fast or it is a leisure two-day trek. Guides and ponies can be hired in Likir or Temisgan and both places have basic guesthouses.

Spituk to Markha Valley and Hemis via the Kongmaru La Pass
The Markha Valley runs parallel with the Indus Valley. Because it is close to Leh and is shorter than the other treks, it is the most popular one done in Ladakh. You should have proper clothing in case of rain. It can get very cold going over the passes, even in July. The trek takes from six to eight days.

On Day 1 you go from Spituk Gompa to either the village of Jingchen or Rumbak (7 hr). It is a good idea to spend a day to acclimatize at Rumbak. Day 3 you go to the base of the Gunda La Pass (4910m). On Day 4 you go over Gunda La and there are great views of the Zanskar Range from the pass. You then descend to the Markha Valley and the village of Skiu where you stay for the night. It takes about 6 hours for this leg. You could also stay in the village of Shingo for the night.

Day 5 you go to the village of Markha. From there you go to the meadow of Nimaling, which has the Kangyaze (6400m) towering over it or to Hankar village. Day 6 you go over the Kongmaru La Pass (5100m), from where there are great views of the Ladakh Range and the Indus Valley. You stay in Shogdo for the night or in the village of Sumda. The next day it is a 5-hour walk to Hemis Gompa or you can go to the village of Karu, from where you can get a bus to Leh.

Lamayuru to Chiling or Alchi
This treks goes via the Kondze La and Dung Dung La passes and is fairly strenuous. There are some great views along the way. The path is very difficult to follow, so you have to have a good guide.

The trek begins in Lamayuru and then goes over the Prinkiti La Pass (3600m) to Wanlah (4 hr). From there it is a 4 or 5 hour walk to Hinju. You need to stay a day there to acclimatize. Day 3 you then go over Kondze La (4900m) from where there are great views and then to the village of Sumdo Chunmu (6 hr). From there it is a three-hour walk to Sumdo Choon at the base of Dung Dung La. Day 4 you go over the Dung Dung La Pass (5150m) from where there are great views of the Zanskar Range and then descend to the village of Chiling. On Day 4 you could go instead to the base of Stakspi La Pass (5150m) and then on Day 5 cross the pass and descend 1000m to Alchi.

From Chiling you can take a bus back to Leh or continue the trek to the Markha Valley and the Hemis Gompa.

Leh to Manali by Vehicle
The road between Leh and Manali is the second highest road in the world, rising to an elevation of 5,238m (17,285 ft) at Taglang La Pass. The road is usually open from early June to mid-October. Only about half the road is paved, so it can be a rough journey, taking two full days. You must stay overnight in a tent camp at either Darcha or Sarchu. Sometimes bad weather comes in and there may be a delay of a couple of days. Going over the passes it can get extremely cold, so you should have some warm clothing with you (ready to put on). In several places, streams cross the road, and during a heavy rain some cannot be crossed. Some streams are fed by melting glaciers, and these are easier to cross early in the morning than in the late afternoon.

Leh to Taglang La Pass
You first pass the gompas of Tikse, Shey and Stok coming out of Leh. At Upshi there is a police checkpoint where foreigners have to register with the police. At Miru, there is a gompa worth seeing on top of a hill surrounded by some chortens. At Lato there is a large chorten next to the road. At Rumtse there are some tent camps, where it is possible to stay overnight. You then come to Taglang La Pass at 5328m, which is the highest point on the trip.

Often buses stop at Pang, where there are several restaurants, for lunch. About 200km south of Leh you come to Lachlung La Pass at 5060m, which is the second highest pass.

Sarchu
Sarchu, immediately over the border of Himachal Pradesh, there are tent camps. Most of the buses stop there for the night. The Himachal Pradesh Tourist Development Corporation (HPTDC) has the best tents camp. It has clean two-person tents for Rs 200 per person. HPTDC buses stop here for the night.

Most private and public buses stop at other tent camps besides the HPTDC. You can also sleep on the bus and there are places to put up your own tent. There are several tent restaurants here.

Sarchu to Manali
You then go over the 4880m Baralacha La Pass. Next comes Darcha, which is a tent camp where you can stay for the night. From Darcha, treks to Padum begin. From Darcha you can make a side trip to Deepak Tal about 15km away, which is a nice place. Next you come to the town of Keylong, which is the first decent size place. At Gondhia there is the seven-storey ‘Castle,’ which was built by a local ruler. It has some weapons and old furniture.

There is a nice waterfall at Sissu. Then you come to the Rohtang Pass at 3978m. Buses usually stop at the pass to see the outstanding views at this place. About 20km from Manali is the 70m high Rohalla Falls at 3,500m, which is interesting. Next comes Manali, 50km south.

Transportation
If you are traveling from Manali to Leh, during the ascent up to the Taglang La Pass (5328m), most people experience the effects of altitude sickness (headaches and stomach aches). The effects coming from Leh are often milder than when coming from Manali, because Leh is at a much higher elevation.

Most buses depart Leh at around 6 am. When you reserve your ticket you should make sure you know the number of the bus and exactly where it departs from. Buses departing from Leh late in the season may be cancelled depending on arrival of buses from Manali. Buses from Manali may be cancelled because of bad weather or a lack of demand.

The largest numbers of buses run between the beginning of July to mid-September. In late September it is not unusual for there to be snow on the road, which can make the trip more dangerous.

Buses The HPTDC bus is the most comfortable. You reserve it in Leh at the HPTDC office on Fort Rd and in Manali at the HPTDC office (2116) on The Mall. It costs Rs 800 from Leh to Manali. For an extra Rs 300 a tent, dinner and breakfast in Sarchu is included, which is not advised because you can arrange it cheaper in Sarchu yourself. This bus should be booked in advance, especially later in the season, because the demand can be heavy.

Private buses are slightly cheaper and not as comfortable. Also the tents they usually arrange in Sarchu are not as good as the HPTDC tents. They cost around Rs 700. In Leh you have to buy your ticket from a travel agency. In Manali you can buy your ticket directly from the bus company, which is preferable to buying it from a travel agency. Some bus companies in Manali are Ibex Tours (2480), Hotel Ibex, The Mall; Enn Bee Tours (2650), The Mall, opposite the bus station; and Tarun Tours & Travels (2688), near the Mall.

The less comfortable and the slowest are the public buses. These depart from Leh and Manali at around 4 am. They cost Rs 450 to Rs 600 depending on the quality of the bus. I couldn’t imagine taking the lowest quality bus, and I have had some really rough bus trips in India.
Taxi The two-day taxi ride between Leh and Manali is around Rs 11,000. Going this way you have the advantage of being able to stop where you want.

Truck Many trucks travel between Manali and Leh. To get a truck you have to go to where the trucks stay around Manali and Leh. The trucks usually depart very early, so you may consider going the night before to arrange a truck ride. Trucks are often faster than the bus and should be cheaper, around Rs 350.

Motorcycle To take this route you should be experienced, as half the road from Manali to Leh is unpaved. Also the road can be very thin, with just enough room for a truck to get by. You have to bring spare parts (chains and tire tubes). There are petrol stations at Tandi and Keylong. Sometimes you can get petrol at a tent camp. The price is about double normal. You should have boots and warm weather clothing.

Leh to Kargil
This 231km trip takes about twelve, nonstop hours. It crosses a few high passes and there is great scenery on the way. You could spend a week in the area fully exploring it. The interesting gompa at Alchi and the photogenic gompa at Lamayuru are worth seeing.

There are many buses going between Leh and Kargil, but few public buses go to the more remote areas. An acceptable way of getting around is to hitch a ride on a truck. Traveling by jeep is expensive, but it is the easiest and quickest way to get around.

Phyang
The nice village of Phyang, off the main road, 20km west of Leh, has a 15th century gompa with about fifty monks belonging to the Kagyupa (“Red Hat”) order. You pass mani walls on the way to the gompa. The gompa has three silver-plated chortens and many statues, including some 14th century Kashmiri bronzes in the Guru Padmasambhava Temple.

In the Gon-khang there is a protector deity and some 14th century weapons and armor. The impressive Phyang Tsedup Festival is held in July or early August. It has masked chaam dances, and a ten-metre silk thangka is shown at this time. It is the second largest festival (next to the one in Hemis).

There are three buses daily from Leh (one at 8am, 1¼ hr). Buses go to Leh at 9 am and 5 pm. A roundtrip taxi from Leh costs Rs 500. You can also walk to the main road (30-min) and hitch a ride on a truck.

From Phyang there is a trekking route going to Temisgam (about 70km away) via Likir.
At Nimmu the Indus and Zanskar rivers meet and it is an interesting site.

Basgo
There is a 17th century gompa at Basgo. Often there is no one there and you may have to ask one of the monks in the village to let you in. There is a large gold and copper statue of Maitreya Buddha (the future Buddha) and some excellent paintings on the walls.

The Lagung Guest House, next to the gompa, has basic rooms. There are a few buses daily from Leh. A roundtrip taxi from Leh costs Rs 700.

Likir (Lekir)
In the village of Likir, 5km off the main road, is the interesting Klu-kkhyil Gompa. This gompa was founded in the 14th century. The present building dates from the 18th century. It has an interesting small museum and beautiful paintings. There are about 150 monks of the Gelukpa order living here. The head lama is the younger brother of the Dalai Lama. 

Norbu Guest House, in the village of Likir, is a friendly place with rooms for Rs 150 per person including meals. A bus from Leh to Likir departs are 3 pm. A taxi is around Rs 900 roundtrip.

Alchi
For the area, Alchi is a happening village with shops. Alchi is 70km west of Leh.

The Alchi Gompa was founded in the 11th century by the Great Translator Ringchen Zangpo, after his return from India. There are five different temples here containing impressive and well-preserved paintings and sculptures, some dating to the 11th century. The temples have some of the best surviving paintings in the Kashmiri-style.
The main prayer hall, Du-khang, was built in the late 11th century. Left of the Du-khang is the 11th century Sumtsek Temple. Its paintings and sculptures are considered some of the most impressive Buddhist art in India. The three other temples are also worth seeing.

The gompa is at ground level and you don’t have to climb up to it. To see the paintings properly, you will need a good flashlight. Flash photography is banned of the paintings, because it ruins them.
There are many chortens in the village area. At the Dharma Wheel Gompa there are large statues of the Buddha and nice paintings on the wall.

Where to Stay and Eat
Lotsav Guest House has basic rooms with common bath for Rs 100/125. It is a good value.
Choskpor, near the gompa, has basic rooms for Rs 125/150. It is a good popular place.
Pota La Guest House, near where the buses stop, has rooms for Rs 225. You can camp there. It has a restaurant.

Samdup Ling Guest House has rooms for Rs 250.
Zimskang Guest House has rooms with common bath for Rs 225 and with bath for Rs 550.

Travel
There is a direct bus to here from Leh at 3 pm (3 hr). You can also get one of the buses running along the main road. You should get off at the blue sign that says “Alchi Chhoskor Gompa.” You should ask the conductor of the bus to tell you where to get off. From there it is an hour walk (3km) to the village. A taxi to Alchi from Leh is around Rs 900.

Rizong
At Rizong there is a gompa and a nunnery. From the road it is a 6km trek to the gompa. Near the turnoff to Rizong there is the nice Uletokpo Camping Ground. There are no direct buses to this place.

Lamayuru
The village here is not very nice, but there is a really good gompa.

The Lamayuru Gompa was founded in the 11th century and belongs to the Kagyupa order. The present monastery dates from the 16th century. It is in a great location and has a good collection of thangkas, paintings, and carpets. It is very photogenic, being surrounded by mountains. There are festivals here in Feb-March and April-May.

The trail to Prikiti La Pass, which leads to Zanskar, begins in Lamayuru.

Where to Stay and Eat
Tasigar, near the post office, has extremely basic rooms for Rs 40 per person.

Monastery Hotel, at the gompa, has really basic dirty rooms for Rs 45 per bed. There are no bathrooms and there is bucket hot water.
Dragon has good-size rooms with common bath for Rs 150.

Shangrila Hotel, just off the main road, has rooms with common bath for Rs 100 and Rs 180 with bath. It has some good views.

Travel
To get here you take a Leh to Kargil or Srinagar bus. You can also take a truck to here. There is a truck stop here and it is easy to get a ride early in the morning.

Mulbekh
There is an interesting 8m high statue of Chamba (a future Buddha) carved in the rock face dating from the 7th or 8th century.

There are the Gandentse Gompa and Serdung Gompa, from which there are good views. They are situated on a 200m hill, about 1km west of the Chamba statue. After Mulbekh, you enter the Muslim area near Kargil.

Paradise Hotel has really basic rooms with common bath for Rs 90. A roundtrip taxi from Kargil is around Rs 950. Buses going between Leh and Kargil can stop here.

Kargil and the Suru Valley

Kargil
Pop: 5500 Area Code: 01985

Kargil is the second largest town in Ladakh, but is not much more than one long road called Main Bazaar Rd. The people here are mainly Shi’ite Muslims. Most travelers will want to stay here as short a time as possible.

Information
There is the Tourist Reception Centre next to the taxi stand. Open 10 am to 7 pm in the summer. They rent out good trekking equipment including tents, sleeping bags and boots.

You can change money at the State Bank of India. It only takes American Express and Thomas Cook travelers cheques. You can also change money at the Siachen Hotel, which gives poor rates.

There is a post office and many places to make a phone call.

Where to Stay and Eat
Many of the budget hotels are real dives and are best avoided. Many do not have running water.
Hotel Greenland (2324), near the taxi stand, has rooms with a verandah and bath starting at Rs 165. More expensive rooms have hot water.
Crown Hotel has rooms with common bath for Rs 150/175. The bathrooms can be dirty.
Evergreen, near the taxi stand, is a decent place that has rooms with common bath.
Hotel International has fairly good rooms for Rs 150/200.
The J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow, next to the tourist office, has clean rooms for Rs 225. If you are told it is full, the tourist office may help you get a room. There is another cheaper J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow, which is not as good.
Hotel Siachen (2221) has a garden and clean comfortable rooms with hot water for Rs 400/600. It is a good value. It should be booked in advance in July and August.
D’Zojila (2360), 2km east of town, has rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 650/750. 
Caravan Sarai (2278), in Upper Kargil, has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 1300/1700, with breakfast included.
Nuktal is one of the better places to eat. It has cheap Indian and Chinese food.

Travel
There are buses early in the morning to Leh and Srinagar. There are buses daily to Mulbekh (2 daily) Parkachik (2 daily), Panikhar (2 daily) and to Shergol (1 daily). There is a bus to Padum in Zanskar, every other day at 3 am. 

The bus stand in Kargil is divided into two lots next to the main road. You book your ticket at the old building in the north lot, which should be done as soon as possible.

A taxi to Padum is around Rs 10,000 roundtrip. The trip to Padum takes two days stopping in Rangdum overnight.

Kargil to Padum
The road to Padum goes south through the Suru Valley. If you drive straight through from Kargil to Padum it takes around 15 hours.

The first town you get to is Sanku. There is a daily bus from Kargil to Sanku at 3 pm. There is a J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow in Sanku.
At Panikhar and Parkchik you can get a good view of Nun (7135m) and Kun (7087m) Mountains. In Panikhar there is the good

J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow with rooms for Rs 150. There are a couple buses a day from Kargil to Panikhar. You can also get the bus that goes to Padum every other day or ask a truck driver for a ride.

After leaving Panikhar, you pass the imposing Gangri Glacier.

In Rangdum there is the 18th century Rangdum Gompa. The J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow has basic rooms for Rs 100 per person. From Rangdum there is a good trek that goes east over the Kanji La Pass (5255) meeting the main Leh to Kargil road at Lamayuru.

At Ating there is the Zongkul Gompa.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides