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Travel - Mumbai

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Local Trains
Mumbai has a good local train system stopping at 28 stations. The local train system is a good way to get around if you do not have much luggage. There are two different train lines. One begins at Churchgate Station and goes along the west side of the city past Mumbai Central, Dadar, and Santa Cruz. The other begins at VT station. Some trains are express (stop only at major stations and move twice as fast as the locals) and others are local. The trains are crowded most of the day, especially during rush hours.

There are both first-class and second-class compartments. First-class costs about ten times the price and is often much less crowded except during rush hour.

Most trains have ladies-only compartments, which are very advisable for ladies, especially during rush hours, because in a crowded situation the men love to grope (touch) the women. You should be very careful when getting on and off the trains.

There are no conductors ensuring that everyone is safely on the platform or in the train before departure. Someone I know tried to board a train in Mumbai, but it began pulling out and he ended up breaking a leg.

Taxis and Auto-Rickshaws
I found that most taxi drivers seem to use their meters. They carry a fare adjustment chart, and passengers must pay around 11 times the meter for taxis and 7 times the meter for auto-rickshaws.
To hire a car for the day (8 hr or 80km) costs: Rs 1000 for A/C Luxury, Rs 600 for non-A/C; Rs 500 for an Ambassador.

A car can be hired from Makson Auto Hirers (812-1701), Sagar Kunj, L Jagmohanda Marg; Bhuta Travels (632-5334), Nagardas Park, Old Nagardas Rd, Andheri; or Budget (494-2644).

Local Buses
70 Dadar Station via Mumbai
Central to Colaba

66/71 VT to Mumbai Central

91 Mumbai Central to Kurla Station

81 Churchgate via Vatsalbai Desai Chowk to Santa Cruz (for Mahalakshmi Temple and Haji Ali’s tomb)

124 Colaba via Mumbai Central to Vatsalabai Desai Chowk

Motorcycle
Allibhai Premji Tyrewallah (309-9313), 205 Lamington Rd, Opera House, is a good place to purchase or rent a motorcycle. Rental cost is between Rs 1500 and Rs 2200 a week, depending on the model.

Arrival by Bus and Train (Getting to Colaba or downtown)
From the long-distance bus station or Mumbai Central railway station to Colaba by bus: take bus #66, #70, or #71 from the bus stop on Dr DN Marg (Lamington Rd), a two-minute walk west of the station. You can also take the local train to Churchgate Station (from the Mumbai Central local train platform) and take a short taxi ride (Rs 20) from there. A taxi takes twenty minutes to half an hour.

Maharashtrian State buses end at the ASIAD bus stand or Dadar railway station. It is a half an hour to an hour taxi ride from there to Colaba. You could also take a local train from Dadar station to Churchgate Station and a short taxi ride from there. You can also take Best bus #70 to Colaba.
Buses from Goa (both private and public) usually let passengers down in the Fort area, which is a 10-minute taxi ride to Colaba.

From Victoria Terminus (VT) it is a 10-minute taxi ride to Colaba. From Kurla railway station a taxi will take an hour or more, or you can take bus #91 to Mumbai Central and then either bus #70 or the local train to Churchgate. This would be difficult during rush hour if you are carrying a lot of luggage.

Arrival by Air
To get downtown from the airport can be an hour drive (sometimes two) during rush hour, but at other times it takes about 45 minutes. Sahar (international) airport is 15 minutes further north than Santa Cruz (domestic) airport.
If you arrive at night you may want to pay in advance at the prepaid taxi stand at a rate slightly higher than the meter rate. The prepaid fare from the International airport to Colaba is Rs 225 and Rs 280 at night.

It is about Rs 200 from Colaba to the airport on the meter. From Juhu (30 min) to the airport costs Rs 100. At night and during rush hour, most taxi drivers will not want to use the meter and will request a higher fare.

You should not get an auto-rickshaw at the airport to go downtown because auto-rickshaws are not permitted in the downtown area. If you do make this mistake, you may be left with an unscrupulous taxi driver at Mahim Creek, which is as far south as they are allowed.

The EAT bus (Rs 50) leaves hourly from Sahar and Santa Cruz (a half-hour later) airports for downtown. This is an inexpensive way to get downtown. Most of the higher-priced hotels, especially the ones by the airport, send courtesy coaches to the airport. There are airport buses every half-hour to the airport from the Air India building at Nariman Point.

To get downtown, you can also take an auto-rickshaw to the suburban train, which is very inexpensive. From Sahar International Airport go to Andheri station, and from Santa Cruz Domestic Airport, go to Vile Parle station. It is usually better to take the train downtown if you don’t have much luggage than to go by public bus. The train takes about forty-five minutes.

Taxi drivers will try to take you to the hotel of their choice. It is usually best not to agree with their suggestions, as their commission will be added to the price of the room. Later in the day, however, it may be difficult to find a hotel at any price, so they may be helpful at that time.

Travel
Air The Mumbai airport is the busiest airport in India. Most of the major international airlines fly into Mumbai. There are several flights a day to the major cities in India.

There are two airports in Mumbai—the Santa Cruz airport (domestic), and Sahar airport (international). When preparing to leave for your flight, be sure to go to the correct airport. Both airports are north of the downtown area, about 26km from city center. Shuttle buses run between the two airports every fifteen minutes. At Sahar International Airport there are MTDC and Government of India tourist counters, a 24-hour branch of the State Bank of India, and a prepaid taxi stand. Many flights arrive at night, so it would be wise to reserve a room at one of the tourist counters (expect to pay more). You may also decide to wait until daylight before leaving the airport.

Flights from Mumbai include Ahmedabad (6 daily, $80), Aurangabad (2 daily, $70), Bangalore (8 daily, $130), Bhavnagar (1 daily, $95), Bhopal (1 daily, $115), Bhubaneswar (3 weekly, $230), Calcutta (6 daily, $210), Kozhikode (4 daily, $145), Chennai (8 daily, $160), Coimbatore (2 daily, $140), Delhi (15 daily, $165), Diu (daily, $100), Goa (5 daily, $120), Hyderabad (6 daily, $110), Jaipur (3 daily, $150), Jodhpur (3 weekly, $140), Kathmandu (3 weekly, $265), Madurai (1daily, $175), Mangalore (4 daily, $125), Pune (2 daily, $80), Thiruvananthapuram (3 daily, $180), Udaipur (1 daily, $115), Varanasi (1 daily, $225), and Visakhapatnam (1 daily, $180).
Often it is possible to take an international flight into Mumbai and out of Delhi for the same price as flying into and out of either one of the airports. There are clean comfortable Retiring Rooms at the Domestic terminal for Rs 440 for a double room; Rs 165 dorm bed.

Most of the international airline offices are at or near Nariman Point. The Air India office at Nariman Point can be crowded.

International Airlines
Aeroflot
9 Tulsiani Chambers, Free Press Journal Marg, 
Nariman Point (221-1682)
Air France
Maker Chambers VI, J Bajaj Marg
Nariman Point (202-5021)
Air India
Air India Building, Nariman Point (202-4142)
Reservation office at the Centaur Hotel, Juhu Beach
Air Lanka
Mittal Towers, C Wing, Nariman Point (284-4156)
Air Mauritius
Air India Building, Nariman Point (202-8474)
Alitalia
Industrial Assurance Building, Veer Nariman Rd,
Churchgate (204-5023)
Bangladesh Biman
199 J Tata Rd, Churchgate (282-4659)
British Airways
Valcan Insurance Building, 202 B Veer  
Nariman Rd, Churchgate (282-0888)
Canadian Airlines
Amarchand Mansion, Madame Cama Rd
(201-1111)
Cathay Pacific Airways
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder Colaba  
(202-9112)
Delta
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba
(288-5659)
Druk Air
2 Raheja Center, Free Press Journal Marg
Nariman Point (287-4936)  
Emirates
Mittal Chambers, 228 Nariman Point
(287-1649)
Ethiopian Airways
Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba (202-8787)
Gulf Air
Maker Chamber V J Bajaj Marg, 
Nariman  Point (202-1626)
Japan Air Lines
Raheja Centre, Free Press Journal Marg,
Nariman Point (287-4939)
Kenya Airways
199 J Tata Rd, Churchgate (282-0064)
KLM
Khaitan Bhavan, 198 J Tata Rd, Churchgate
(283-3338)
Kuwait Airlines
Chateau Windsor, 86 Veer Nariman Rd 
(204-5351)
LOT (Polish Airways)
6 Maker Arcade, Cuffe Parade (218-5494)
Lufthansa
Express Towers, Nariman Point (202-3430)
Malaysia Airlines
GSA Stic Travels & Tours, 6 Maker Arcade,
Cuffe Parade (218-1431)
Pakistan International Airlines
4th floor, Mittal Towers, Free Press Journal
Marg, Nariman Point (202-1373)
Qantas
42 Sakhar Bhavan, Nariman Point
(202-0343)
Royal Jordanian Airlines
B-1 Amarchand Msn, Madame Cama Rd 
(223-080)
Royal Nepal Airlines
Maker Chamber V, Nariman Point
(283-6197)
Sabena
Nirmal, Nariman Point (202-3240)
South African Airways
Podar House, 10 Marine Drive
(282-3450)
Scandinavian Airlines (SAS)
Poddar House, 10 Marine Drive (202-7083)
Singapore Airlines
Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder
(202-2747)
Swissair
Maker Chambers VI, J Bajaj Marg,
Nariman Point (287-2210)
Thai International
15 World Trade Centre Arcade, Cuffe Parade  
(215-5301)
TWA
Amarehand Mansion, Madame Cama Rd
(282-3080)
United Airlines
Podar House, 10 Marine Dr (204-7027)
Domestic Airlines
Indian Airlines
Air India Building, Nariman Point (202-3031)
Reservation desks in the Taj Mahal Hotel
and the Centaur Hotel, Juhu Beach
Jet Airways
Maker Chamber-III, Nariman Point (838-6111)
Sahara India
G-6 Maker Chamber-V, Nariman Point
(283-5672; fax 287-0076)
Damania
17 Nehru Road Vakola, Santa Cruz (282-5285)
Archana
(834-9686; fax 835-2517)
Gujarat Airways
(617-7063; fax 617-7064)

Train  There are two different railway system in Mumbai and four different long distance train stations. Central Railway trains depart from Victoria Terminus (Mumbai VT), in the center of the city, for the east and south. A few trains also depart to northern Rajasthan and Delhi. It is a ten-minute ride from the Colaba area. Victoria Terminus has a good Foreign Tourist Bureau from which you can purchase tourist quota tickets. They are also helpful in planning itineraries and providing other useful information. Tourists must first secure an authorization slip from the tourist information booth on the main railway station concourse before going to the tourist counter (Counter 8) in the Computerized Reservations System Building office next to the station (9 am to 1 pm and 1 to 4 pm daily).

There, you can make reservations for any train leaving from any of the Mumbai stations. They also sell Indrail passes.

Mumbai Central Station is the headquarters of Western Railways. It is located several km north of the city center. Trains from this station depart north to Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Delhi. You can get to Mumbai Central by taking a local train from Churchgate Station. Churchgate Station, near the center of the downtown, is mainly a commuter station. Western Railway trains are booked at the reservation center across the street, open Mon to Sat 8 am to 8 pm, and Sun 8 am to 2 pm. There is a reservation center at Mumbai Central, but you cannot purchase tourist quota tickets there.

Tourist quota tickets are booked at the foreign reservation counters on the mezzanine floor in the CRS building next to Churchgate Station, next to the Government of India Tourist Office. Open Mon to Fri 9.30 am to 4.30 pm, Sat 9.30 am to 2.30 pm. To reserve a train, you must first get a slip from the man sitting in the back of the room, then purchase your ticket. Mr. Singh, who works at this office, is both knowledgeable and helpful. Foreign tourists wishing to take a night train must purchase the ticket the morning the train departs. Tickets for morning trains must be purchased the day before. It is not usually possible to purchase tourist quota tickets more than one day in advance, and tickets must be paid for in foreign currency or in rupees after showing a recent encashment certificate.

If you get off a train at Churchgate Station, the CRS building is to your left as you head toward the main entrance.

The third long-distance station is Dadar in the northern part of the city. Some of the Central and Western Railway trains stop there. Two trains to Chennai and Goa depart from here. Central Railway trains departing Dadar can be booked at VT Station. You can catch a local train from Dadar to the downtown. Some trains to Calcutta, Varanasi, and Bangalore depart from Kurla station, near the airport, 15km from the downtown. Getting to these stations with luggage can be difficult by public transportation.

There is a rail reservation counter at Mumbai’s international airport, open from 11 pm to 7 am, to coincide with international flight arrivals.
There are many trains coming in and out of Mumbai daily. There are trains to Agra (two daily, 24-27 hr), Ahmedabad (seven daily, 9-11 hr), Aurangabad (one daily, 10 hr), Bangalore (2 daily, 24½ hr), Calcutta (four daily, 33-40 hr), Chennai (three daily, 24-31 hr), Delhi (seven daily, 17-33 hr), Hyderabad (two daily, 15-18 hr), Jaipur (one daily, 23 hr), Mangalore (one or two daily, 40-46 hr), Nasik (fourteen daily, 4 hr), Pune (fifteen daily, 4 hr) Ujjain (one daily, 14 hr), Thiruvananthapuram (one daily, 45 hr), and Varanasi (four daily, 28-31 hr). There are two trains daily to Goa. The only place they stop in Goa is in the town of Margao (Madgaon), south of Panaji.

If you want to go north to Mount Abu or Udaipur, you can take a train to Ahmedabad and from there, a train or bus. The Saurashtra Mail #9005 (8.10 pm, 21 hr, Mumbai Central) departs to Dwarka via Vadodara (5 hr) and Ahmedabad (9½ hr). The Kashi Exp #1027 ( 6.35 am) departs daily to Varanasi (28 hr) via Allahabad (24 hr) and the Kurla-Varanasi Exp #2165 (5 am) departs to Varanasi (27½ hr) via Allahabad (24½ hr) on Mon, Tue, and Sat.
Agra Punjab Mail #2137 (4.15 pm, 24 hr, VT); Ahmedabad Shatabdi Exp #2009 (6.25 am, 7 hr), Gujarati Mail #2901 (9.50 pm, 9 hr); Aurangabad Tapovan Exp #7617 (6.10 am, 9½ hr), Devgiri Exp #1003 (9.20 pm, 8 hr); Bangalore Udyan Exp #6529 (7.55 am, 24½ hr); Calcutta Gitanjali Exp #2859 (6 am, 32½ hr), Mumbai-Howrah Mail #8001 (8.15 pm, 36 hr); Chennai Dadar-Chennai Exp #1063 (7.50 pm, 24 hr, Dadar Station), Mumbai-Chennai Mail #6011 (2 pm, 27 hr, VT Station); Delhi Rajdhani Exp #2951 (5 pm, 16 hr, daily except Mon, Mumbai Central), Golden Temple Mail #2903 (9.30 pm, 22 hr); Goa Konkan Kanya Exp #0111 (10.30 pm, 12 hr, CST), Mumbai-Madgaon Exp #0103 (5.15, 11 hr); Guntakal (for Hampi) Mumbai-Chennai Mail #6011 (2 pm, 19½ hr, VT Station); Kochi Mumbai-Kanniyakumari Exp #1081 (3.35 pm, 40 hr); Pune Shatabdi Exp #2027 (6.40 am, 3½ hr), Deccan Exp #1007 (6.35 am, 4½ hr), Deccan Queen #2133 (5.10 pm, 3¾ hr); Thiruvananthapuram Kanyakumari Exp #1081 (3.30 pm, 45 hr).

Bus The Long Distance bus station (307-6622) is opposite Mumbai Central railway station. The State bus companies’ offices for Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, and Karnataka are located here. The MTDC luxury buses are the best buses. Some luxury buses can be reserved in advance. The booking office is open from 8 am to 9 pm. It is a hectic place, so plan to arrive for your bus as early as possible.

Making a reservation can take a couple of hours. Private buses can be booked and depart from travel agencies on Boman Behram Marg, near the Long Distance bus station.

Most Maharashtrian state buses depart and arrive at the ASIAD bus stand, beside the main street in Dadar. It is a thirty-minute to one-hour taxi ride from the downtown. A local train downtown from the Dadar railway station. To get to this station, walk over Tilak Marg Bridge.

Most of the private bus companies operate out of Ballard Pier in the Fort area. Travel agents sell tickets for private buses to Goa (16 to 18 hr), which are much better than the government buses. Deluxe buses cost Rs 250/350 and an A/C bus Rs 400/500. Buses usually depart between 3 and 6 pm from near the Metro Cinema on MG Rd.
The MTDC operates deluxe buses to Nasik (Rs 100), Mahabaleswara (7 hr, Rs 160), and Aurangabad (7.30 pm, Rs 200) which are booked at and depart from the MTDC office on Madame Cama Rd.

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