Orissa

Population: 35 million
Capital: Bhubaneswar
Area: 155,700 sq km
Best Time to Visit: November to March
Main Language: Oriya
Literacy Rate: 48% 

Orissa is a tropical state located on the east coast of India, south of West Bengal. This state has a long and renowned history, and some of the most beautiful scenery in India. Its main holy place is Puri (Jagannath Puri). Also prominent are Bhubaneswar, the state capital, and the famous Sun Temple at Konark.

History
The first known ruler was the King of Kalinga. In 260 BC he was defeated by Emperor Ashoka in a bloody battle, which was the catalyst that turned Ashoka toward Buddhism and nonviolence. The Kesari dynasty (7th–12th centuries) and the Ganga dynasty (12th–15th centuries) built many of the temples now existing. Hindu rulers continued to rule Orissa until the Mughals conquered it during the 16th century. At this time, many of the Hindu temples were destroyed. After Clive’s victory in Plassey in 1765, the East India Company took control of part of Orissa. By 1803, the British controlled the entire state.

Temple Design
The Orissan temple architectural style is known as Nagara. As a rule, an Orissan temple consists of two essential parts: the deul and the jagmohana. The tall, main structure (deul in Orissan) is a spiraling, elevated tower crowned with a lotus-shaped top. At the center of the deul is the inner sanctum where the temple deities are located. In front of the deul there is usually a porch structure (jagmohana) that is rectangular in shape.
There may also be a dance hall (nata-mandira), a congregational hall (bhoga-mandapa), bathing tanks, and subsidiary shrines enclosed by a wall.

Places Around Bhubaneswar & Puri

Udayagiri & Khandagiri Caves
The caves here are ancient (over 2,000 years old) Jain caves located about 7km west of downtown Bhubaneswar. There are two sets of caves carved into two opposite hills. Altogether, there are forty-four caves carved out of sandstone, some of which are natural and some carved out of the rock. Jain monks used the caves around the 1st or 2nd century BC. All the caves are numbered (gumpha means “cave”).

This place can be reached by auto-rickshaw or bicycle from Bhubaneswar. It takes two or three hours to see everything.

Open 8 am to 6 pm. There is a government restaurant here. Each year in late January for a week or so, an assembly of sadhus congregates in this place, which is a popular event.

Udayagiri Caves
On the right side of the road are the Udayagiri caves. To get to the caves, walk up the main path, then take the path to the right. At the end of the path, you will come to the two-storey Rani ka Naur (Queen’s Palace), Cave 1. It is the largest of the caves and contains some interesting carvings. You then come back on the same path and proceed to the Chota Hathi Gumpha (3), which contains carvings of elephants, a lion, and winged animals. Then follow the path to the two-storey Jaya Vijaya Cave (5), which has interesting carvings. Then climb the hill and to the right is the two-storey Swargapuri Cave (9).

Then take the path to your right to the Ganesh Gumpha (10). There is an elephant in front and a carving of Ganesh on the right side of the back wall. You can then go up the hill to the top from where there is a good view of the surrounding area. Then follow the path around to the left. You will come to Bagha Gumpha (Tiger Cave), Cave 12. The entrance is carved like a tiger’s mouth. Then return to the path, and on the left is the central Hathi Gumpha (Elephant Cave) (14), which is especially interesting. It has an inscription in the ancient language of Magadhi describing the history of King Kharavela, who funded the carving of some of the caves.

Then return to the Hathi Gumpha and proceed to the Pavana Gumpha (Purification Cave). Then go to Sarpa Gumpha (Serpent Cave), which has a three-headed cobra above the doorway.

Khandagiri Caves
On the other side of the road are the Khandagiri caves. The caves can be reached by going up the steps next to the entrance to the Udayagiri caves. If you climb these steps, when the path divides, take the right path and you come to Caves 1 and 2. They are known as the Parrot Caves because of the birds carved over the doorways. Return on the path for 30m and then climb some steps to the Ananta Cave (3), which has carvings of elephants, women, and a bird carrying flowers. It has the best sculptures of the Khandagiri Caves.

You can then climb the hill, passing the Jain temples, and at the top, there is an 18th century temple dedicated to Mahavir, the 24th tirthankara (Jain teacher). From the temple there is a good view of Bhubaneswar, including the Lingaraja Temple.

Dhauli Hill
Ashoka, the Mauryan Emperor, inscribed his decrees on a rock called the Ashoka Rock Edicts at the foot of Dhauli Hill. These are the earliest known inscribed records in India. Above the edicts there is a sculpture of a frontal view of an elephant, which is the earliest known sculpture in Orissa. It is said that after Ashoka’s army killed 150,000 people in a battle near here in 265 BC, he renounced the path of violence and decided to follow the path of the Buddha.

There is the impressive Buddhist Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda) on top of this hill. It is a beautiful, white-domed building built in the 1970s by Japanese and Indian Buddhists. The Dhaveleswara Temple, a Siva temple, is on the top of the hill. There are good views from the top of the hill.

This hill is 8km from Bhubaneswar. The OTDC organized tours are a convenient way to visit this spot. If you don’t travel in your own vehicle, be prepared to walk about 2km from where the public bus lets you off (ask for Dhauli Chowk). To come here by auto-rickshaw is around Rs 100 roundtrip (there are no rickshaws available at the site) plus waiting time.

Nandankanan Zoo
This zoo has a lion safari, white tigers, and elephant rides. There is an exotic Botanical Garden. Open daily except Mon 7 am to 6 pm in the summer and 8 am to 5 pm in the winter. It is 20km from Bhubaneswar, from where there are hourly buses (1 hr) from the Old bus stand to the zoo. The OTDC bus tours from Puri and Bhubaneswar come here. It takes 1½ hr to ride here by bicycle from Bhubaneswar.

Sakshi Gopala Temple
This is an important Krishna temple that is dedicated to Sakshi Gopala. Sakshi Gopala means “the witness Gopala.” This Deity was originally in Vrindavan.

Once, two Vidyanagara Brahmins, one elderly and the other young, after touring many places of pilgrimage, finally reached Vrindavan. While in Vrindavan, to reciprocate with the service the younger Brahmin had rendered him, the older Brahmin promised his daughter in marriage. He made this promise before the Gopala Deity in Vrindavan.

Some time later, after having returned to Vidyanagara, the young Brahmin reminded the older Brahmin of his promise. Due to pressure from his family members, the elderly Brahmin said he could not remember having made any such promise. The younger Brahmin then returned to Vrindavan and told the whole story to Gopalaji. Being obliged by the young man’s devotional attitude, Sri Gopala followed him to South India, where he bore witness to the elderly Brahmin’s promise. Hence, by the Lord’s grace, the marriage was performed. The Deity was later moved to Cuttack, then to the Jagannath temple, and finally to its present location.

Non-Hindus can not enter this temple. This temple is 10km west of Puri. You can take a train here, as it is a stop on the Puri-Bhubaneswar line. You can also take a bus or taxi.

Chilika Lake
Located 45km southwest of Puri, this lake is known for the many birds that migrate here in December and January, including flamingos, pelicans, cranes, and ospreys. The lake is about 75km long and 15km wide, and is separated from the sea by a thin sand bar. There is a Kali temple on Kalijai Island.

From the boat jetty in Balugaon, visitors can rent a boat to Kalijai Island (2-hr round trip) or Nalabana Island (4-hr round trip), to visit the bird sanctuary.

Yatri Niwas, Satapada, 45km from Puri, has good, inexpensive rooms. There are several buses from Puri to here.

Tourist Bungalow (06756 20488) at Balugaon, 5km south of Barkul, has poorly maintained rooms for Rs 400 and Rs 600 with A/C. You should bring mosquito repellent, as the mosquitoes can be vicious. To get to this place, take a bus to Barkul and a rickshaw from there. There is an OTDC bus coming here directly from Puri. You can rent a boat here.

Tourist Bungalow, near the railway station at Rambha, has rooms with bath and a balcony overlooking the lake for Rs 250 and Rs 500 with A/C. You can rent a boat here to go out onto the lake. The hotels in Balugaon are near the railway station.

Satapada Panthanivas (0674 432-177), on the shore of the lake at Satapada, 55km south of Puri. It has good, clean rooms for Rs 200.

Cuttack
Pop: 500,000 Area Code: 0671

Cuttack was the capital of Orissa until 1956. It is 35km north of Bhubaneswar. There is nothing to see in this city. Kadam Rasul has the footprints of the Prophet enshrined in it.

There is a Tourist Counter at the railway station.
State Bank of India, near the High Court, changes money.

Where to Stay
Hotel Neeladri (614-221) has rooms for Rs 300/450.
Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow (621-867), Buxi Bazaar, has rooms for Rs 350 and Rs 500 with A/C.
Hotel Ashoka (613-508; fax 613-091) has rooms for Rs 250/350 and Rs 600/650 with A/C.
Hotel Akbari Continental (622-342), Haripur Rd., near the railway station, has A/C rooms for Rs 1200/1500.

Travel
Cuttack is on the main line between Calcutta and Chennai. There are trains to Bhubaneswar, Calcutta, Chennai, Puri, Delhi, and Hyderabad. There are regular buses to Bhubaneswar.

Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and Udaigiri
Located on top of three hills, about 100km north of Bhubaneswar and 65km northeast of Cuttack, are these ancient Buddhists ruins.

Lalitgiri, dating back to the 9th century, contains different sculptures, including a large sculpture of a head of the Buddha. A stone box with some gold and silver artifacts was found in a stupa believed to contain relics of the Buddha. There is a small museum containing sculptures found in the area (Tues to Sun 10 am to 5 pm; often closed).
At xe "Udaigiri:(OR)"Udaigiri, there is a large brick stupa, with a carving of the Buddha on each side. There is a group of monasteries. One monastery has carved doorways and a large, seated Buddha in the main shrine. The Lokeswar Buddha statue is 3m (10 ft) high.

Ratnagiri, there are the ruins of two large monasteries dating back to the 6th to 12th centuries. There is a large stupa, believed to have contained relics of the Buddha. There are large carvings of the Buddha, and some carved doorways. Ratnagiri is 20km from the main road.

Practicalities
There is the OTDC Rest House near Ratnagiri, which has basic rooms. Panthasala Tourist Bungalow, near Lilitgiri Hill, has rooms for Rs 150, which can be reserved at the tourist office in Cuttack.

These places are basically inaccessible by public transportation. The best way to get to them is to rent a car in Bhubaneswar (about Rs 750) or Cuttack. Buses go only to Lalitgiri.

To visit these places you could take a bus to Chandikol (45km from Cuttack) and then take an auto-rickshaw to these places for (Rs 300 for all three places).

Bhitar Kanika Wildlife Park
This park is located between Chandipur and Paradip, on the coast at Gahirmatha Beach, 125km from Bhubaneswar. This is the nesting place of over 200,000 Olive Ridley marine turtles, which come to the mouth of the Brahmini River each year during February and March to lay their eggs. Some come from as far away as South America and Australia. They come onto the shore and bury their eggs, then return to the sea and swim home halfway around the world.

The turtles nest for three or four days. Visitors can inquire at the OTDC tourist office in Bhubaneswar to find out when the turtles will arrive. The turtles don’t seem disturbed that people are watching.
There are almost no facilities here. The only convenient way to come see the turtle nesting is by taxi. There are Forest Rest Houses in Dangmal and Chandbali. There are rooms for Rs 150 at the Ray Lodge (06797 2201).

Baripada
Area Code: 06792

Visitors may stop here while traveling to Simlipal National Park.

Bishram (58535), near the bus stand, has basic, inexpensive rooms.

Hotel Ambika (52557) has rooms with bath for Rs 150/200 and better rooms for Rs 350/450. The manager here is helpful and can arrange transportation to Simlipal National Park. It has a restaurant.

Durga (52338), 3km out of town, is a colonial building with basic rooms.

Balasore (Baleshwar)
Area Code: 06782
Balasore is the first major town in Orissa coming from Calcutta, about halfway between Calcutta and Puri. Balasore means “Town of Baby Krishna.” This is the nearest train junction to the Gopinath Temple at Remuna.

Where to Stay and Eat
Deepak Lodging, across from the cinema, is a decent place. From the train station, go to the main road and turn left. The hotel is on the right, across from the cinema.
Hotel Swarnachuda (73440), Sahadevkhunta Rd, near the bus stand, is a good, well-managed place with rooms for Rs 200/250 and A/C rooms for Rs 350/500.
Suraj (72657), near the bus stand, has basic rooms for Rs 150/200.
Top of the line is the Hotel Torrento (63481; fax 64084), 3km out of town on NH #5. It has large, comfortable rooms, most with central A/C, for Rs 1200/1450. Recommended.
Rainbow Restaurant is a good vegetarian place. Recommended.

Travel
Balasore is on the Calcutta-Chennai line. There are regular trains to Calcutta, Puri, Chennai, and Bhubaneswar (five daily). The railway station is just off the main street. It is a ten-minute rickshaw ride (3km) from the railway station to the bus station.

There are regular buses to Remuna, Bhubaneswar, Calcutta, and Chandipur.

Chandipur
Area Code: 06782

Chandipur, on the coast 16km from Balasore, has one of the best beaches in Orissa. The tide recedes 5km each day. You can get an OTDC Tour from Chandipur that visits the temples in the area. It departs twice daily.

Practicalities
OTDC Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow (72213), near the beach, is a colonial building with rooms for Rs 350 and Rs 500 with A/C. It is well-managed and friendly.

Shubam Hotel (72025) is in an old colonial building and has a nice garden. Rooms are Rs 450/500.

Chandipur Hotel (72313) has good rooms for Rs 175/225.

Yarica Yatri Niwas (72374) is a modern place with rooms built around a courtyard for Rs 250 and Rs 500 with A/C. It also has dorm beds.
There are five buses a day going between Balasore and Chandipur. An auto-rickshaw costs about Rs 75 from Balasore to Chandipur.

Sambalpur
Pop: 210,000 Area Code: 0663

Sambalpur is in western Orissa, near the border of Madhya Pradesh. It is where many of the Orissan saris are made.

Where to Stay
Indhrapuri Guest House (21712), by the bus stand, is a basic place with rooms for Rs 70/90.
Hotel Sujata (400-403; fax 400-662) has good rooms for Rs 250/400.
Hotel Uphar (21308), near to the bus stand, has rooms with bath for Rs 300/350 and Rs 550/600 with A/C and TV. They often give a 30% discount.
OTDC Panthanivas Tourist Bungalow (21482), at the end of the main street on top of a hill, has decent rooms with bath for Rs 250 and Rs 450 with A/C.

Travel
There are trains to Bhubaneswar, Delhi, Chennai, and Calcutta. The railway station is 3km from the center of town (Rs 30 by auto-rickshaw).

The bus station is in the center of town. There are three direct buses daily to Puri (9 hr). You can also take a bus to Cuttack (7 hr), and then another bus to Puri. There are deluxe night buses to Puri and Bhubaneswar, which should be reserved in advance.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides