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Amritsar

Pop: 750,000 Area Code: 0183

Amritsar is the main Sikh center and the main city in the state of Punjab. Ram Das, the fourth Sikh guru, founded Amritsar in 1577. Amritsar, or Pool of Nectar, (amrit–nectar, sar–pool) was named for the sacred pool by the Golden Temple.

Amritsar is 450km (280 miles) northwest of Delhi. Most visitors are impressed by the friendliness of the people and they usually recommend visiting.

In 1761, Ahmad Shah Durani sacked the city and the temple was destroyed. It was rebuilt in 1764, and the roof was copper-gilded in 1802, giving it the name the “Golden Temple.” Members of the Sikh religion are known as sahajdharis.

NOTE If you are traveling through Amritsar and have a couple of hours between connections, the Golden Temple is only 15 minutes from the railway station, so it can easily be visited.

Orientation
The old city, where the Golden Temple is situated, is surrounded by a circular road, which used to be the site of the large city walls. There are 18 gates left. The bazaar has narrow lanes. The railway station is northwest of this area. Northeast of the railway station is the more modern section of Amritsar, where many of the hotels and the Ram Bagh Gardens are located. One km east of this area is the bus station.

Information
The Tourist Office (231-482) is 1km east of the bus station, in the former youth hostel. The Golden Temple Information Office is helpful. Phone numbers are being changed in Amritsar. For directory assistance, call 550-197.

The main post office is about half a km north of the railway station on Court Rd. There is also a post office at the Golden Temple.

Kakkar Hospital (210-964), Green Ave, near Mall Rd, is considered a good hospital.

Booklovers Bookshop, Hall Bazaar, near Gandhi Gate, has a decent selection.

Money
There is a Bank of Punjab at the Golden Temple. On Links Rd, across from the railway station, there are several places to change money. RK Traders (212-701), in the Mehra Hotel, across from the railway station, changes money legally.
There is an ATM machine at the Bank of Punjab at the Golden Temple.

Hari Mandir (Golden Temple)
This is the holiest temple of the Sikh religion. The Sikhs refer to this temple as Hari Mandir (“the Temple of the Lord”), or Darbar Sahib (“the Court of the Lord”). It is located in the middle of a large tank known as Amrita Sarovara, “Pool of Nectar.” The temple dome was covered with 100 kg (220 lb) of gold leaf, giving the temple its name. The temple’s interior is elaborately decorated.

Guru Ram Das, the fourth of the ten gurus of the Sikh religion, established the tank in 1577. His son, the fifth guru, Arjun Dev, built a temple in the middle of the tank, purified its waters, and installed the Granth Sahib, the Sikhs’ Holy Scripture, here in the late 16th century. The Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh (1780-1839) rebuilt the present temple in 1803.

Granth Sahib (Adi Granth)
Arjun, the fifth guru, compiled a collection of verses by persons he considered great saints: Ramananda, Kabir, Namdev, Nanak, and others, including the Sikh gurus. This is the Sikh scripture now known as the Adi Granth, or Granth Sahib (the “original holy book”), which was installed in the temple.

Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh guru, revised the Adi Granth. He did not name a successor, but instead said that the Sikh guru would be the Adi Granth itself. From that time the Adi Granth has been known as Guru the Granth Sahib (the “Holy Book as Guru”). It contains nearly 3,500 verses.

When circumambulating the temple complex, visitors hear the Adi Granth being chanted. There are four booths around the parikrama where priests, or granthis, chant the verses. Professional singers (ragis) chant in three-hour shifts, and a continuous reading takes 48 hours. Chanting is done continuously from 4 am to 10 pm in the summer, and from 5 am to 11 pm in the winter.
At 4 am in the summer (5 am, winter), the Adi Granth Sahib is brought in a ceremonial procession from the Akal Takhat to the Hari Mandir, where it is kept during the day. It is returned at 10 pm.

Parikrama
Visitors enter the temple complex by the north gateway, the Darshini Darwaza. It has a clock tower over it. Directly before you, in the middle of the Amrita Sarovara Tank, is Hari Mandir (Golden Temple). The Parikrama path, the path circumambulating the tank, should always be circled in a clockwise direction. Upstairs in the clock tower is a gallery of paintings that tell the story of the Sikhs and their martyrs.

The shrines at the east side of the tank are known as the 68 Holy Places. When the tank was built, Arjun Dev told his followers that a visit to these shrines was equal to visiting the 68 most important Hindu pilgrimage sites.

In the Guru-ka-Langar, a giant dining hall at the east end of the tank, free vegetarian food is given to anyone who comes to the temple. The third guru, Amar Das (1552 1574), abolished the custom of eating only with persons of the same caste. The food distributed is usually chapatis and dhal (beans). Thousands of people are fed each day. Meals are from 11 am to 3 pm and 7 to 9 pm.

Next to the dining hall are the Guru Ram Das Sarai and the Guru Nanak Niwas gurudwaras (guest houses), which provide free lodging for all. Pilgrims can stay for up to three nights. Next to the garden, to the right, is the large impressive assembly hall. There is also a post office, bank, railway booking agent, and a library.

On the southeast side of the temple tank is the shrine of Baba Deep Singh. When Ahmad Shah Durrani attacked Amritsar in 1758, Baba Deep Singh vowed to defend the temple with his life. Six km from the town he was mortally wounded, but he continued to fight. On his way back to the temple he died at this spot.

To the south of the temple compound are the temple gardens. They cover thirty acres. At its south end is the eight-story Baba-Atal Tower. This tower is dedicated to Atal Rai, the son of the sixth guru, Har Gobind.

In the northwest part of the parikrama path is the Jubi Tree, under which the first temple High Priest, Baba Buddhaja, sat and supervised the construction of the temple 450 years ago. It is believed to have special powers. Barren women who want a son hang strips of cloth on its branches.

The Akal Takhat (throne of the timeless God) is directly opposite the temple’s main entrance. This is where the Shiroman Gurudwara Parbandhak committee, which is the religious governing body of the Sikh religion, meets. Each evening, the Adi Granth is brought from the Hari Mandir to this place. Also housed here are ancient weapons, including Guru Gobind’s sword. By the Akal Takhat is the shrine of Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth and last Guru, and the flagstaffs.

Hari Mandir
The three-storey Hari Mandir was built by Arjun Singh to house the Adi Granth, which is located on an elaborate throne covered by a jeweled, silk canopy on the temple’s ground floor. The Guru’s Bridge joins the temple to the west bank of the Amrita Sarovara tank. You get to the temple via the Darshani Deorhi archway. When pilgrims enter the temple, they offer sweet prasad to the attendants, which is later distributed to the pilgrims as they leave the temple.

On the first (US second) floor, three respected Sikhs perform the Akhand Path (unbroken reading). On the top floor is the Hall of Mirrors (Shish Mahal). The gurus used to sit here. This place is swept with brushes made from peacock feathers. The Golden Temple’s architecture is a mixture of Hindu and Muslim styles.

Temple Information
Visitors should wash their feet before entering the temple. Shoes and socks cannot be worn. Visitors to the temple must keep their heads covered while in the temple. No tobacco, alcohol, or drugs of any kind are allowed in the temple.

The best time to visit is on a weekday morning before the crowds arrive. Photography is permitted on the parikrama path but not inside the shrines. English-speaking guides are available at the information office near the clock tower.

Gattaka
This is the fighting system developed by the Sikhs after 400 years of fighting their oppressors. Between 8.30 and 11 pm the fighters practice on the roof of the Guru-ka-Langar, the community kitchen. They fight with swords, spears, and bamboo sticks according to different fighting styles, and they allow visitors to try their weapons.

Other Places
In the old city, in the center of a lake, is the Lakshmi Narayana Temple, which was built similar to the Golden Temple. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The 16th century Hindu Durgiana Temple, dedicated to the goddess Durga, is about a fifteen-minute walk from the Golden Temple.

Jallianwala Bagh Park, a five-minute walk from the Golden Temple, is where soldiers under the command of General Dyer opened fire on a crowd of protesters. Over 300 people were killed and another 1,200 injured. This event was reenacted in the movie Gandhi.

Ram Bagh is a beautiful garden in the modern part of the city. There is a museum in the palace built by the Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh containing paintings of Punjabi rulers and a weapon collection. Open every day but Wednesday.

Ram Tirtha Savovara
About 11km northwest of Amritsar is Ram Tirtha Savovara. It is said that Maharishi Valmiki had his ashram here, and that Sita gave birth to Rama’s twin sons (Kush and Luv) at this place. There is a large sacred tank that is said to have been dug by Hanuman. It is said that Rishi Chavan Prash cured Valmiki Rishi of leprosy by having him bathe in the pond. There is a big festival here yearly in November.

Where to Stay—Lower
Guru Ram Das Niwas and Sri Guru Nanak Niwas Gurudwaras (temple guest houses) are free to pilgrims and tourists (donation expected) for three-day visits. Meals are also free. The dormitory is large. For a double room with a bath at the Sri Guru Nanak Niwas, a donation of Rs 20 is expected. The Sri Guru Hargobind Niwas is a new guest house, which has rooms with attached bath for Rs 75. No smoking, alcohol, or drugs are allowed in the rooms.
Sharma Guest House (551-757), one block northeast of the temple, has rooms with bath and TV for Rs 250/300.
Shri Gujarati Lodge (557-870), one block from the temple, has clean rooms for Rs 150 with a common bath, Rs 200 with a private bath, and Rs 250 with bath and air-cooling.
Sita Niwas (543-092), near the Golden Temple, has rooms for Rs 200 with common bath, Rs 250 with private bath, and Rs 800 for an A/C room. Rooms are built around a courtyard. It can be a bit noisy.
The popular Tourist Guest House (553-830), GT Rd. near Bhandari Bridge (east of the railway station), is a good budget place with rooms with common bath for Rs 100/150, with private bath for Rs 200, and Rs 350 with A/C. The rooms in the back by the railway are noisy. Touts outside the station will try to bring you to the Hotel Tourist Bureau, which is outside the north entrance of the station, which is not as good.
On Station Link Rd, opposite the railway station, there are several lower and middle range places.
Hotel Pegasus-Palace (565-111), across from the railway station, is one of the better budget places, but that’s not saying much. It is actually two hotels owned by two brothers. Rooms with bath are Rs 200/250 and with A/C Rs 500/700.
Hotel Rosh has rooms with bath for Rs 300 and Rs 450 with A/C.
The railway Retiring Rooms are Rs 150 and Rs 250 with A/C.

Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Blue Moon (220-416), Mall Rd, about 1km from the railway station, is a good place with rooms for Rs 350/425 and Rs 500/650 with A/C.
Grand Hotel (562-424; fax 229-677), Queen Rd, across from the railway station, is a good place with clean rooms with TV for Rs 400/550 and Rs 650/750 with A/C. Rooms are set around a garden.
Mrs Bhandari’s Guest House (222-390), 10 The Cantonment, is a recommended, well-managed and well-maintained place. Rooms are Rs 500/600 and Rs 700 with A/C. It is in a colonial house with 1950s furniture, a pool and a large garden. It is very popular. You can camp here for Rs 100.
PTDC Amritsar International (555-991), off Delhi Rd near the bus stand, is a modern government-run hotel with spacious lawns. Rooms are Rs 550/600 and Rs 625/775 with A/C.
Airlines Hotel (227-738), Cooper Rd. by the train station, is a reliable, mid-range hotel with rooms for Rs 300/350 and Rs 750/800 with A/C. It has a nice terrace.

Where to Stay—High
The best hotel in town is the central A/C Mohan International Hotel (227-801; fax 226-520) on Albert Rd. It has rooms with bathtubs for Rs 1400/2400. It has a pool (Rs 100 for non-guests).
Hotel Ritz (226-606; fax 226-657), 45 The Mall, is a good, old colonial-type place with A/C rooms for Rs 1700/1900. It is in a quiet part of town and has a gym and pool (Rs 100 for non-guests), and nice lawns.

Where to Eat
Vegetarian meals of chapatis and dhal (beans) are served for free at the Guru ka Langar at the Golden Temple.
Sharma Vaishna Dhaba, near the temple, serves good vegetarian food.
Amrit Vaishno Dhaba, opposite the main entrance of the temple, has good food.
Bharawan Dhaba, near the Town Hall, close to the Golden Temple, has good cheap food. Thalis Rs 35.
Kasar de Dhaba, in the old city near the Durgiana Temple, has good, cheap, vegetarian meals.
Mrs Bhandari’s Guest House (222-390), 10 The Cantonment, has British meals for Rs 200. It must be booked in advance by non-guests.
Kwality Restaurant, Mall Rd, near Ram Bagh Gardens, serves Indian and Continental meals for about Rs 100.
Sindhi Coffee House, opposite Ram Bagh Gardens, serves Indian and Continental meals.

Travel.
Air There are four Indian Airlines flights a week to Delhi ($100) and Srinagar. The Indian Airlines office (213-392) is at 367 Green Ave, a little north of Mall Rd. Air India (546 122) is located at the Amritsar International Hotel, near the bus stand.

The airport is 15km from the downtown. The fare is Rs 100 by auto-rickshaw and Rs 200 by taxi.
Rail The station is a 10-minute auto-rickshaw ride from the Golden Temple. From the railway station to the Golden Temple by auto-rickshaw costs Rs 30; by bicycle-rickshaw Rs 15.

There are several trains leaving daily to Delhi, a 7 to 11-hour journey. The Shatabdi Express #2030 (5.pm) takes just six hours. The Frontier Mail #2904 leaves Amritsar at 9.30 pm and arrives in Delhi the next morning at 7.20 am. The Amritsar-Howrah Mail #3006 (6.15 pm) is a direct train to Calcutta (39 hr), stopping at Varanasi (23 hr) and Lucknow (17 hr). The Tata/Hatia-Pathankot Exp # 8101 goes to Pathankot (2½ hr) at 5.50 am. Mumbai Paschim Exp #2924 (8 am, 32 hr).

Bus Taking a train from Delhi is more comfortable than taking a 10-hour bus ride. There are early morning buses to Dehra Dun (10 hr), Dharamsala, and Kullu (11 hr). There are frequent buses to Pathankot (3 hr), Jammu (5 hr) and Chandigarh (6 hr).

Private bus companies, located near the train station, run express buses to Chandigarh and Jammu. Private bus companies sell tickets through agents near the railway station.

To get to Rajasthan is not so easy, unless you go first to Delhi. You can get a bus to Ganganagar (10 hr) in Rajasthan.

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