Punjab & Haryana

Punjab

Population: 22 million
Capital: Chandigarh
Area: 50,300 sq km
Main Language: Punjabi
Literacy Rate: 57%
Best Time to Visit: October to mid-April

Before Partition in 1947, the Punjab used to cover part of Pakistan and present-day Punjab, with Lahore as the capital. Lahore is now the capital of the Punjab state in Pakistan. The main city in the Punjab is Amritsar, the holy city of the Sikhs. The main reason why most people come to Punjab is to see the Golden Temple in Amritsar. I have yet to meet anyone who did not enjoy their trip there.
Some major battles were fought in Punjab, which helped shape the destiny of India. For years, Muslim invaders entered India through Punjab. The Mughals gained control of Northern India after the Battle of Panipat in 1526.

In 1966 Punjab was divided into the mainly Sikh and Punjabi-speaking state of Punjab, and the predominantly Hindu and Hindi-speaking state of Haryana. Chandigarh is the capital of both states. It is a Union Territory.

Punjab is the richest state in India. It accounts for a high percentage of the wheat and dairy production in India. Ludhiana and Jalandhar are major industrial cities. Punjabis as a class are hard-working people who take pride in their work. Sikhs as a class are friendly, helpful, and fair people. They believe in working hard for a living. They are usually efficient, and will often try to charge higher prices for their services.

In the past there has been tension in Punjab. Sikh militants have wanted to form an independent Sikh nation called Khalistan. In 1983, Jarnail Singh Bhindranwale, the Sikh militant leader, shut himself up in the Golden Temple in Amritsar and the violence in Punjab increased.

In 1984, Indira Gandhi dismissed the state government and the Central government ruled Punjab directly. By the summer of 1984, over 350 people had been killed. In June, under Indira Gandhi’s order, the army stormed the Golden Temple in what was known as “Operation Blue Star.” Although a commando raid was intended, the attack turned into a full-scale battle. At the end of it, more than 750 people had been killed, including Bhindranwale and 200 soldiers. Four of the six generals who planned Operation Blue Star were Sikhs.

Many Sikhs considered the attack on the Golden Temple to be a sacrilege. Thousands of Sikhs deserted the army. Although gradually the mood calmed, Indira Gandhi was assassinated on October 31 by two of her own Sikh bodyguards. Massive riots in Delhi and other places followed in which Hindus killed thousands of Sikhs. After this, the militant movement in Punjab became even more powerful. Violence escalated in 1988 and militants reoccupied the Golden Temple, but this time the police dealt with the situation relatively peacefully. Many Sikhs boycotted the elections in 1992. Since then, it has been basically calm. Sikh militants are not aggressive toward tourists.

Wagah
Located 31km from Amritsar, Wagah is the place to cross the border to Pakistan by bus.

There is a Punjab Tourist Office (9 am to 5 pm). You can change money at the State Bank of India (10 am to 4 pm).

Neem Chameli Tourist Complex has rooms for Rs 200/250.

Pathankot
Pop: 170,000 Area Code: 0186

The main reason to come here is to travel through on the way to Amritsar, Dharamsala or Dalhousie. Pathankot is 107km north of Amritsar at the northern border of Punjab. There is nothing to see here.

The Shahpur Kandi Fort is 12km north of town, on the bank of the Ravi River.

Where to Stay and Eat
Tourist Hotel (20660), to the right after leaving the railway station, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 100/175.
Hotel Airlines (20505), near the post office, has clean rooms with bath and TV for Rs 150/200.
PTDC Gulmohar Tourist Hotel (20292), Mission Rd, Shimla Pahari, has typical tourist bungalow rooms, which include A/C rooms and dorm beds.
Venice (25061), Dhangu Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 900/1100.

Travel
The railway station and bus stand are about 500m apart, across the street from one another. There are trains to Amritsar (2½ hr) and Delhi.
There are buses to Dharamsala (4½ hr, Rs 45), Dalhousie (4 hr, Rs 40), Jammu, and Chamba (5½ hr, Rs 60). From the bus stand you can take a taxi to Dharamsala (2 hr) or Dalhousie (2 hr) for about Rs 800.

Pinjore
In Pinjore, 20km northwest of Chandigarh, there are the beautiful 17th century Yadavindra Gardens. Situated within the gardens is the Shish Mahal palace, the Jal Mahal, and Rang Mahal. There is also a small zoo and otter house. The fountains are only turned on during weekends.

Haryana Tourism’s Budgerigar Motel (01733 67759) has comfortable, mid-range rooms. There are buses from Chandigarh to Pinjore every hour.

Sirhind
Pop: 35,000

Sirhind, 50km west of Chandigarh, was the capital of the Pathan Suri dynasty. Humayun defeated Sikander Shah here in 1555, which lead to the establishment of the Mughal dynasty. The places to see are a couple km north of town.
The Daulat Khana is all that remains of Shah Jahan’s palace. Close by is the hammam, or public baths. The 17th century Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) is in fairly good shape. About 1km north, in the Fatehgarh Sahib, is a Sikh memorial to Guru Gobind Singh’s two youngest sons, who were both walled in alive by Aurangzeb in 1705 for not converting to Islam.

There are buses to Chandigarh (1½ hr, every half-hour). There are trains to Delhi and Amritsar. The railway station is 5km from the places to see (Rs 25 by bicycle-rickshaw). Buses coming from Amritsar usually drop off passengers out of town, from where you have to get a local bus to the sites.

Sultanpur
Sultanpur, 45km southwest of Delhi, is a bird sanctuary with many species of birds. September to March is the best time to visit. Between April and June it is likely that the lake will be dried up and there will be no birds. This place does not compare to Bharatpur.

Rosy Pelican (85242) has rooms in which guests can stay. To get here from Delhi you take a bus first to Gurgaon and then take a bus going to Chandu and get down at Sultanpur.
Bhrigu Reader in Hoshiarpur

There is a woman named Sneha Amritananda who does Bhrigu readings in Hoshiarpur. Hoshiarpur is located about 100km east of Amritsar in the Punjab. Her phone number is 01882-22122. Anyone interested in seeing her must call for an appointment. It is also suggested that you call her and give her your birth information, so that she can draw up a chart before seeing you.

Bhrigu Muni is the authority on Vedic astrology. It is said that many years ago he wrote down the destiny of many living entities. A Bhrigu reading is when an experienced Bhrigu reader tells you what was written. Sneha Amritananda is said to have a book written by Bhrigu Muni himself, which includes the destiny of every living entity. She has a small Bhrigu temple in her home.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides