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Jaisalmer Area

Bada Bag and Cenotaphs
Bada (big) Bag (garden) is a garden and large water tank 5km north of Jaisalmer. It is a good place from which to watch the sunset, as the sun turns the city of Jaisalmer a golden brown. There are beautiful old chhatris built in memory of the maharajas of Jaisalmer. The garden was began by Maharaja Jait Singh II and completed by his son, Maharaja Loonkaran. The tank has an interesting underground drainage system, so if the tank is full, the water will automatically leave the tank. There is a mango grove here.

Inside each chhatri are statues of the maharaja and maharani to which the chhatri is dedicated and a plaque. The maharaja is seated on a horse and the maharani is standing. If the maharaja and the maharani are together on the plaque, it means the maharani became sati at her husband’s death. There may be separate plaques for the maharaja’s courtesans.

The chhatris of Maharaja Devidas and Jait Singh date from the 16th century. The last chhatri to be built was that of Maharaja Jawahar Singh, who was the Maharaja after India’s independence. It is incomplete because Jawahar Singh died one year after Independence and the family felt it was a bad omen and thus not a good idea to finish the chhatri. The maharaja’s chhatri is the largest; his family members have smaller chhatris.

Amar Sagar
This garden is northwest of Jaisalmer and is now poorly maintained. There is a beautiful Jain temple here, currently being renovated.

Lodarva
Lodarva, the old capital of the Bhatti Rajputs, is located 17km north of Jaisalmer, close to the now dry Kak River. The city was destroyed when Majez Khan, a general of Mohammed Gori, defeated Rawal Bhoja, the last ruler of Lodarva. The Rawal of Jaisal, who was the uncle of Rawal Bhaja, later killed Majez Khan in battle. Jaisal then transferred the capital to Jaisalmer because Lodarva was not easy to defend.

There is almost nothing left of the city except an old Jain temple dedicated to Parasnath, the 23rd tirthankara. There are many intricate carvings on the Jain temple, and the temple has now been almost completely restored. There is one row of carvings on the temple which have been left as they originally existed after they were defaced by invading Muslims. The temple entrance (Toran Dwar) has impressive arches.

There is a 10m high artificial Kalpa Vriksha tree made of wood and metal here built by the Jains about 125 years ago. It is said that if you stand near a kalpa vriksha tree and make a wish, it will come true. Around the platform surrounding the tree are images of lions and deer together, and birds and snakes together, symbolizing the Jain belief in nonviolence, love, and friendship.
Across from the Kalpa Vriksha tree is a hole in the temple from which a snake is said to come out of each night to drink some milk.

About half a km walk from the Jain temple is a four-faced statue of Siva.

About half a km from the Jain temple at Moomal ki Meri is where the palace of Princess Moomal was located. It is now in ruins.

Mool Sagar
There is a garden, wells, and the Raj Mahal here. It is 9km west of Jaisalmer.

Sam Sand Dunes
About 45km west of Jaisalmer is Sam, the site of the only Saharan-type sand dunes in the area. They are 3km long and 1km wide. Many visitors come in the evening to take a camel ride and to see the sunset. Most longer camel safaris come here. You can camp out on the dunes, but it can get quite cold at night, so you need a sleeping bag or some thick blankets. Only two buses a day come here from Jaisalmer, so if you are coming for the sunset, you have to come by jeep or take a jeep/camel tour.

The RTDC Motel Sam Dhani Hotel (02992 52392) has eight rooms for Rs 300/400 and dorm bed for Rs 75. You should book a room here in advance at the RTDC Tourist Bungalow in Jaisalmer.

Desert National Park
The park is about 32km from Jaisalmer, near the Sam Sand Dunes. It has just a few sand dunes and is mainly covered with scrub trees. There is a Bishnoi village here. Blackbuck and chinkaras can be seen near the village because the Bishnoi people protect them. In this park are the great Indian bustard, desert foxes, wolves, desert cats, and various types of eagles.

Visitors require a permit to enter the park, which is issued by the Collector of Jaisalmer. To get the permit, contact the Director of Research, Desert National Park on Khuri Rd in Jaisalmer. There is a small rest house here with six rooms.

Khuri
This pleasant village is 40km southwest of Jaisalmer. The houses are constructed of mud anxe "Bada Bag" d straw and have patterns on them like those found on Persian carpets. Because Khuri is close to the Pakistani border, a permits is required to visit. They can be obtained from the Chief Magistrate’s office opposite the hospital.
A few buses from Jaisalmer (2½ hr) come here daily. Khuri Guest House (02992 8444), near the bus stand, has rooms with common bath for Rs 150/175, which includes meals. Mama’s Guest House has cottages with common bath for Rs 400. Vegetarian meals are Rs 150.

Akal Tree Fossil Park
There are tree fossils here said to be 180 million years old. The forest consists of huge, petrified trees. The park is 17km south of Jaisalmer, 3km off the road going to Barmer. It is best to come here by jeep.

Vesakhi
Vesakhi is a Hindu pilgrimage center located about 15km from Jaisalmer.

Deserted Villages
Many villages inhabited by Paliwal Brahmins were deserted about 200 years ago because of the oppression of Salim Singh, Prime Minister of Mool Raj II. There are houses here built of stone, some with carvings on them.

Ramkunda
This was the home of Ramsnehi, the guru of Maharaja Amar Singh. Ramkunda is 11km from Jaisalmer. Amar Singh’s wife, Mansukhi Devi, built the Ramkunda Temple here. The main Deity in the temple is Lord Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu. People pass through this town on camel safaris. There are basic places to stay here.

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