Jaisalmer

Pop: 47,000 Area Code: 02992

Jaisalmer, the western-most town in Rajasthan, has one of the most impressive and enchanting forts in India. It is known as the “Golden City” because of its many yellow sandstone buildings. The atmosphere here is tranquil, and the people are friendly. When you walk around the fort’s narrow streets, you feel like you have been transported back in time 500 years. When I approached Jaisalmer and saw the beautiful yellow fort on top of the hill I thought, “I did not know that a place like this existed.” I did not know what a good view was until I looked out at the area surrounding the fort. Over 3,000 people live within the fort and it is well-maintained.

Despite its extreme out-of-the-way location, Jaisalmer is a popular place to visit, and most people really enjoy it and often stay longer than they planned. It is a highly recommended place. If it was not such a hard place to get to (unless you fly), it would be a place that practically no one would miss.

Many of the people that come here go on a camel safari. Besides the fort, there are old havelis throughout the city built by rich merchants. These havelis are richly carved and make walking through the streets of Jaisalmer interesting.

You could look out for the Indian Bustard, which is found in Jaisalmer. It is about 40 cm (16 in) and weighs 14 kg (30 lb). They are mostly gray with black spots on their necks. There are about 1,000 of these birds in the desert.

History
The city was founded by Rawal Jaisal of the Bhatti Rajputs in 1156. Maharaja Jaisal is said to have descended from the Lunar (Moon) race in the line of Sri Krishna. The Bhatti Rajputs were constantly at war with the neighboring Rajput states of Bikaner and Jodhpur. In 1315, Muslims under Allauddin Khilji attacked the city and forced a large-scale jauhar, where the men attack against all odds and fight to the death and the women enter into a large fire. In 1325 Tughluq attacked Jaisalmer and jauhar was again declared. The Bhatti Rajputs regained the city during the 14th century.

When Maharawal Loon Karan ruled the city in the 16th century, a half jauhar was performed. Amir Ali, a Pathan from Afghanistan who lived seven km away and who was a supposed friend of Maharawal Karan decided to secretly capture the fort. He had his soldiers enter the fort in disguise and soon a fight broke out. Because the defeat was so sudden, there was no time to light a fire, so the Maharaja cut off the heads of the women with his own hands. Soon afterwards, other Rajput princes entered the fort through a secret entrance, killed Amir Ali, and retook the fort.

In 1635, the state of Jaisalmer became subservient to the Mughal Empire. No battles were fought in Jaisalmer between the end of the 16th century and the 18th century. As this was a peaceful area, merchants from around the area brought their wealth to Jaisalmer for safekeeping. In 1818 Jaisalmer became a separate state within the British Empire.

Jaisalmer was wealthy because it was located on the camel caravan route between India and Central Asia. Taxes were levied on the caravans passing through. The caravans carried indigo, silk, opium, ivory, coconuts, dry fruits, spices, and other items. When Bombay and Calcutta became popular ports during the British rule and a railway line was built, much of the trade from India started to be done by sea. Jaisalmer then began to decline. Many of the merchants moved to Calcutta and other places. At the time of Independence, when Pakistan was partitioned from India, Jaisalmer as it was had no reason to exist. The population fell from about 100,000 in the beginning of the 19th century to less than 5,000 by 1965.

After the wars with Pakistan in 1965 and 1971, India realized that Jaisalmer was a militarily strategic place. Since then, an army and air force base have been built and good roads constructed. With the building of a good road and the extension of the railway line to Jaisalmer in 1968, tourism has rapidly increased and now it is a very popular place.

Weather
In the months of May and June it is very hot, with temperatures rising to 47°C (115°F). The monsoon lasts from June to mid-September. From mid-October to the beginning of December the weather is perfect. It is not to hot during the day and not too cold at night. From mid-December to February it is pleasant during the day, but temperatures can drop to 0°C (32°F) at night. During March the weather is perfect. April starts to get very hot and is not a good time for a camel safari.

Orientation
A 5km-long wall surrounds the city, which is 3m to 5m high and 2m to 3m thick. Much of the wall has been torn down for building material. Within the city walls is the huge fort on top of an 80m high hill. There are two main gates into the city, Garsisar Gate in the east and Amar Sagar Gate in the west. Near Amar Sagar Gate are several hotels, banks, restaurants, and the local and private bus stands. About half a km west of this gate, outside the walled city, is the tourist bungalow, where the tourist office is located.

Information and Tours
The RTDC Tourist Office (52406), Moomal Hotel, near Amar Sagar Gate, offers daily tours (if there are at least four people) of the city (9am to noon, Rs 50) and to the Sam Sand Dunes (4 to 7 pm, Rs 80). It also gives information on camel safaris, travel, has a map, and makes reservations for RTDC hotels. Open daily except Sun 8 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm.

Jaisalmer, The Gold City is a good small book about Jaisalmer. It is in English, Italian, Spanish and German.

Thar Safari (52722), Gandhi Chowk, just within Amar Sagar Gate; Sahara Travels (52609), right of the gate to the fort, are good travel agents and are recommended for camel safaris. Royal Safaris (52538), Gandhi Chowk, arranges high-end safaris. Hotels that arrange good camel safaris are Paradise, Narayan Niwas, Meru Palace, and Fort View.

The GPO is 5 minutes from Amar Sagar Pol, and there is a branch office, on the right near the gate of the fort.

Bhatia News Agency, near the State Bank of India near Amar Sagar Pol, has new and used English, German, Italian and French books.

Money
You can change cash and travelers checks at the Bank of Baroda (52402), on the right just inside Amar Sagar Pol gate. The Bank of Baroda takes Visa and MasterCard. There are many travel agencies that change money.

Jaisalmer Fort
Maharaja Jaisal, king of the Bhatti Rajputs, originally established this fort in 1156. It is the second oldest fort in Rajasthan, next to the one in Chittorgarh. The fort overlooks the city from the south and is on the 80m (265 ft) high Trikuta (Gorhara) Hill. It is a truly fascinating place to wander around. The fort has a series of narrow paths and is packed with old houses, temples, and palaces. It has ninety-nine bastions around its walls. It is said that the fort does not have any cemented stones in its foundation. No vehicle traffic is allowed inside the fort.

Sunrise and sunset are especially enchanting times to be on the walls of the fort. The view is spectacular. The fort is the highlight of Jaisalmer, and is one of the most interesting and romantic places in India. Almost everyone who comes here is impressed.

Visitors enter the fort from Gopa Chauk, a square outside the fort’s main gate. To enter the fort you go up a steep ramp passing a series of imposing gate. The first gate is called Akhai Pol. Next is Surya (Suraj) Pol. Next to this gate is a tower from which criminals were thrown to their deaths. Then there is Ganesh (Bhuta) Pol. The last gate is called Hawa (Wind) Pol.

The seven-storey Raj Mahals (City Palace) is just inside the gate and consists of five smaller palaces. There is not much to see in this palace, and you can walk through the place in fifteen minutes. To the right of the entrance is a throne, upon which the maharaja is said to have sat. One of the assembly halls has blue Chinese tiles. Some rooms are closed with their original ancient locks. One of the best views of the surrounding area is from the top of the City Palace. Open daily 9 am to 1 pm and 3 to 5 pm; admission Rs 5, camera Rs 15, guided tours Rs 25.

The ancient Lakshmi Nath Temple (1494) still has active worship. Lakshmi Nath means Vishnu, the Lord of Lakshmi, the Goddess of Fortune. The pillar in this temple was brought from Lodarva and dates to the 9th century. There are also Siva and Ganesh temples. The Ganesh temple has an old deity of Surya, the sun-god.

Jaisaloo Well is an old well near the Lakshmi Nath Temple, which was named after King Jaisal. It is said that this well was dug by Shri Krishna with his Sudarsana Chakra when he and Arjuna passed through here and Arjuna was thirsty.

Jain Temples within the Fort
Not far from the palace, within the fort, are seven intricately carved Jain temples, constructed between the 12th and 15th centuries. They are built on a platform and are covered with remarkable sculptures. The temples are open daily from 7 am to noon; camera Rs 40, video Rs 70. Leather items and menstruating women are not allowed into the temples.

The Chintamani Parsvanath Temple is the oldest and main temple. In this temple are intricate carvings of Vishnu, Lakshmi, Siva, Parvati, Brahma, lions, and many others. On the altar is a 2,000 year old (55 BC) clay statue of Chintamini Parsvanath coated with pearls. From the balcony you can get a good view of the temple dome. In the Sambhava Nath Temple there is a statue in the temple the size of a grain of rice.

Within the temple compound is the Gyan Bhandar Library, which has ancient manuscripts written on palm leaves, wood, and paper. It has some of the oldest manuscripts in India, some dating to the 11th century. The manuscripts are written on a variety of topics, including astrology, history, religion, Ayurveda, and general literature. There are also old Jain and Rajput paintings. There is a statue of Sambhava Nath made of emerald. The clothes that Jin Dutt Suri wore at his death are here. It is said that his clothes were not affected after his body was burned. Open daily 10 to 11 am on request. A small donation of Rs 5 is expected.

Havelis
A haveli is a beautifully carved mansion, usually built by wealthy merchants or ministers. The havelis in Jaisalmer were usually constructed from sandstone, and several are still in good condition. There are three main havelis in Jaisalmer. Most of the stone carvers were Muslim, and most later migrated to Pakistan. The havelis are usually open from 10.30 am to 5 pm.

Patwon ki Haveli
The most impressive haveli is Patwon ki Haveli, which consists of six golden-colored havelis built together in the early 1900s by a family of wealthy merchants. The havelis are four-storey high, and each has a stone balcony with a stone arch covering. The buildings’ exteriors are carved from top to bottom, and there are excellent latticework windows. Inside are beautifully carved rooms, fountains in the corners of some of the rooms, carved wooden doors, and murals. Visitors can go up to the roof to get a view of the fort and the surrounding area.

Two of the havelis are privately owned and are now handicraft shops. Two of the havelis (3 and 5) are owned by the Archaeological Survey of India. Two are still used as private residences and are closed to the public. Some of the inside walls have murals on them. Open 10.30 am to 5 pm.

Diwan Nathamalj ki Haveli
Diwan Nathamalji ki Haveli was the house of a former Prime Minister, Mohata Nathamal. Two brothers (Hati and Laloo) carved it, each carving one side of the haveli. Hati carved the left side and Laloo the right. You can notice that the little window on the right side of the door is not the same as the window on the left. The haveli was built in the late 19th century. There are intricate carvings and elephants on either side of the main door. This is one of the best-carved buildings in India. Inside there are beautiful miniature and wall paintings. The haveli can be viewed only from the outside.

Salim Singh ki Haveli (Moti Mahal)
The beautiful Salim Singh ki Haveli was built during the 18th century by Prime Minister (Diwan) Salim Singh Mohta. The highlight of this haveli is the intricately carved top floor, which can be viewed from the roof. It has peacock props decorating its exterior walls. It has thirty-eight carved balconies and beautiful wall fountains.

Salim Singh was considered a tyrant because he inflicted crippling taxes on the people. He maintained his power through bribery and intelligent legislation. It is said that he had eighty-four villages evacuated in one night. Because of his heavy taxation, the Paliwal Brahmins left their villages near Jaisalmer. He tried to construct two additional floors so that his home would be taller than the maharaja’s palace, but Maharaja Gaj Singh had the additional floors torn down. Eventually, because of his brazenness, he was secretly assassinated.       

Part of this haveli is still lived in. Admission Rs 15.

Gadi Sagar (Lake Garsisar)
Gadi Sagar is an artificial reservoir, which was once the only source of water for Jaisalmer. It was built in 1156 by Maharaja Jaisal and reconstructed in 1367 by Maharaja Garsi Singh. Garsi is taken from the king’s name and sar means “lake.” The women would come here to fill their jugs and would then carry them home on their heads. There are a few beautiful stone royal chhatris (carved buildings) located here.

At the lake’s entrance is Tilon-ki-Pol, a yellow sandstone gateway with superb arched windows. It is said that this gate was built by one of the king’s dancing girls (some say prostitute) named Tilon while the king was away. A Krishna temple was built on top of the gate so that it would not be torn down. It is said that the town’s citizens did not want their women walking under it, so a smaller doorway was built to the right. This lake is about a ten-minute walk from the town.

Next to the lake is the small Folklore Museum, which contains stone carvings, folk art, old coins, and paintings (daily except Sun 9 am to noon and 3 to 6 pm; admission Rs 5, camera Rs 10). It has a good, small bookshop.

Desert Festival
This festival takes place in late January or early February. It has camel races, folk music, dance, and puppet shows.

The RTDC constructs a “Tourist Village” to provide accommodation similar to the one in Pushkar. For more information contact the Rajasthan tourist offices in Delhi, Jaipur or Jaisalmer.

Shopping
Jaisalmer is well known for embroidery, puppets, rugs, blankets, Rajasthani mirrorwork, tie-dye fabrics and antiques.

Light of the East, on a lane that leads from the Jain temples, has crystals, semiprecious gems, and minerals. It is an interesting shop that is fairly unique for India.

Rajasthali, just outside Amar Sagar Gate, is a government handicraft emporium with some high quality items.

Camel Safaris
One of the highlights of coming to Jaisalmer is to go on a camel safari. It is a great way to explore the desert, sitting out under the stars around a campfire at night and just relaxing. How much you enjoy the safari can depend on who you go with. It a good idea to inquire from other travelers as to whom they recommend.

Camel safaris usually last for one to four days. Safari prices vary depending on the company and facilities offered. Usually the more you spend, the more you get. The camels are better and they have properly padded seats (your rear-end can really hurt at the end of a four-day camel safari); the food is better (you can have rice, dhal and chapatis or a 10-course feast); bedding (you can sleep under the star with not enough blankets or in a luxury tent with a bed). It also helps if the camel drivers are helpful and friendly, and you should tip them if they are helpful.

Before starting out, be sure there is proper bedding (it can get quite cold at night) and inquire whether there will be a campfire at night. You should bring a hat and sun protection lotion.

If you arrange a safari through a mid-range hotel, expect to pay more for the exact same safari sold by a low-end hotel. You can take a jeep to begin and end a safari, and therefore make it out further into the desert. Many people take a jeep to the Sam Sand Dunes, ride around on a camel for a few hours, then return by jeep.

Most camel safaris go to the sensational Sam Sand Dunes, stopping at villages and sites along the way. It takes 4½ days round trip. You can also take a shorter jeep/camel safari. Longer safaris go to Jodhpur or Bikaner.

Most hotels are honest. The most reliable camel safaris are often booked through private agencies such as Sahara Travels, Gopa Chowk, next to the fort gate, and Thar Safari (52722; fax 53214), Gandhi Chowk, near the Amar Sagar Gate. Paradise Hotel arranges good safaris. The man running the place is honest and tries to please. Meru Palace offers economical safaris that go out to Sam Dune by jeep and then goes out further into the desert than most other safaris. Deepak Rest House Hotel does good safaris.

The best time to go is from the middle of October to February.

Typical Camel Safaris

Half Day—Starts in Jaisalmer and then goes to Bara (Bada) Bagh, Amar Sagar and then back to Jaisalmer.

Full Day—Bara Bagh, Ramkunda, Roopsi, Lodarva, Amar Sagar, Sunset and then back to Jaisalmer.

Two Day—Bara Bagh, Ramkunda, Lodarva, Damodara, Chundhi, Moolsagar and back.

Three Day—Bara Bagh, Ramkunda, Lodarva, Damodara, Jaseri, Jajiya, Kuldhara, Chundhi, Mool Sagar and then back.

Four Day—Same route, going further out to Sam Dunes.

Camel Safari Warnings
The camel safari business is highly competitive. Therefore, you may be offered a special deal for a low price, but later find that you do not receive what you paid for. Every hotel and several private operators offer camel safaris. Most hotels operate through independent agencies and do not have their own camels. Hotels have to pay about Rs 100 for the camels; food and equipment are extra. The hotels have to charge at least Rs 200 a day to make a profit. If you pay Rs 200 a day, expect the food to be basic. The RTDC has set a minimum rate of Rs 250 for a camel safari. A deluxe safari can cost more than Rs 1500 a day, and includes tents, good food, music, entertainment, and of course, quality camels. I have been told that a decent camel safari costs at least Rs 350 (includes three free bottles of mineral water) and if you pay less than this you will get less than the bear minimum.

As you arrive by bus or train into Jaisalmer, expect to be befriended and then harassed by hotel touts. When you arrive, you will be mobbed by people offering you great hotel deals, including transportation to the hotel and prices as low as Rs 10. If you do not like their choice and would like to go elsewhere, the touts will often pull out a card for that hotel and claim to be its agent. Most touts have cards for all the hotels in Jaisalmer. They will then tell you the hotel you have chosen has burned down or is full and then try to bring you to the hotel of their choice. Some hotels actually do provide transportation to their hotel. Look for hotel banners, not cards.

At some hotels, if you do not accept their offered camel safari, you will be kicked out immediately. Also, after returning from the hotel’s camel safari you may be kicked out the next day.
You should be careful about selecting a camel safari, since you may be charged Rs 50 for a bottle of mineral water or no one may speak English. Some safaris may not have basic necessities, such as enough blankets. In the winter, the desert can be very cold at night. Also attempts may be made to steal your luggage. It is not a good idea to leave your luggage alone while exploring the sights, especially on the return trip.

Getting Around
From the local and private bus stand it is a few minutes walk to the hotels near Amar Sagar Gate. An auto-rickshaw to the entrance of the fort costs Rs 10, and from the railway station or the main bus stand it should cost about Rs 20 to hotels in town. Often the hotel where you are staying can arrange a jeep to bring you to the sites outside town and to the sand dunes in Sam.

A bicycle is a good way to get around as there is not much vehicle traffic in Jaisalmer. Bicycles can be hired near the entrance of the fort and just inside Amar Sagar Gate.

Arrival and Touts
Many of the hotels send a jeep to meet the buses or train. They display a sign with the hotel on it and are free. During the Jaisalmer Desert Festival, room rates are extremely high, and it is often difficult to find a room.

Do not believe stories that the hotel that you have chosen is full, burned down, or blown up. When you arrive at a hotel, make sure it is the hotel for which you asked. You may be taken to a hotel, pay the rickshaw driver, and then discover that he brought you to the wrong place.

When I arrived by private bus, the bus conductor warned everyone of the touts and they have a special bus-managed jeep that will bring you to the hotel of your choice for Rs 5. I decided to take the jeep, and the policeman stationed near the bus to protect tourists directed me to it. I told the taxi driver I wanted to go to a hotel in the fort. He told me that staying in the fort was extremely dangerous and took me to place near the fort where some rocks were lying all over the ground. He told me that this part of the fort had collapsed and that six people were killed and if I wanted to be safe, I should go with him to a very nice hotel. I told him I would look at his hotel, and if I did not like it, he should bring me to the hotel of my choice in the fort. I went to his hotel and it was all right for the price, but was secluded. I then told him to bring me to the fort, which he did. He then asked me where I wanted to go tomorrow, and that he would drive me there. He also said he could arrange a camel safari.

The moral of the story is that you should not believe anyone when you arrive in Jaisalmer and that you should just insist on going to the hotel of your choice or no where.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides