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Mount Abu

Pop: 17,000 Area Code: 02974

Mt Abu is a hill station 1200m (3960 ft) above sea level in the southwest corner of Rajasthan, by the Gujarat border. It is a quiet, mellow town with no bicycle or auto-rickshaws allowed. This is an important Jain pilgrimage site because of the marble temples located at Dilwara, which are covered with some of the most intricately carved sculptures in India.

There are no beggars, pushy salesmen or commission agents, except for a few guys who want to help you find a hotel. Mount Abu is visited mainly by middle-class Indian tourists and honeymooners, with a small percentage of Western tourists. Many budget travelers find Mount Abu expensive, especially during the busy season. To get here, you can take a side trip from Udaipur (5 hr), or stop here while going between Mumbai and Delhi.

Mount Abu is on a plateau, the top of which is about 22km by 6km and which varies in height from 1050m (3500 ft) to 1680m (5600 ft). The town of Mount Abu is flat, but everywhere else in the area is hilly. You have to make steep climbs to see some of the sites. You can visit everything here in one day, but may want to stay a few more days as it is a pleasant place.

Information
The Tourist Office (43151), opposite the bus station, is open Mon to Sat 10 am to 5 pm.
The RTDC has daily tours of the main sites in the area. One tour starts at 8.30 am and ends at 1.30 pm, and the second tour goes from 1.30 to 6 pm and ends at Sunset Point, if there is enough time. Both tours start at the tourist office. Private companies run the same tour.

You can change money at the Bank of Baroda, at the south end of the Polo Grounds; State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur, near the GPO; State Bank of India, near the GPO; and at the Chacha Museum, a shop on Nakki Lake Rd.

The GPO is on Raj Bhavan Rd.

If you have heavy luggage, you can hire a person with a push-cart to push your baggage to a hotel.

When to Visit
The best time to visit is from March to June and Sept to Nov. It can be cold here in the winter because of the high elevation. I was in Mt Abu at the end of February and needed a sweater at night, but it was not uncomfortable. March and April are quiet, and hotel rooms are half price. The high seasons are late-April to June and Sept to Oct, when room rates can be three times the cost of other times of the year. Winter temperatures are 7ºC to 26ºC; summer 17ºC to 33ºC.

Nakki Lake
This is the beautiful lake next to downtown. Bathing in this lake is held to be as purifying as bathing in the Ganges. The lake is said to have been dug by a sage using only his nails (nakha).
The 14th century Raghunathji Temple, with Deities of Lord Rama, Laksman, and Sita, is next to the lake. Southwest of the Raghunathji Temple is a famous large rock that resembles a toad. There are also other large rocks called Camel Rock and Nandi Rock. By the lake is Ram Kund, a small well that never dries up.

Museum and Art Gallery
The museum has exhibits dating from the 8th to the 12th centuries. It has sculptures, Jain bronzes, and textiles. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 4.30 pm.

Vasistha Muni Ashram
It is said that Mount Abu used to be the home of Vasistha Muni, Lord Rama’s guru. This place was called Nandivardhan after Nandini, the wish-fulfilling cow who lived with Vasistha. One time, while Nandini was grazing by the lake here, she fell in. Vasistha then flew to the Himalayas to ask the gods to save her. They sent Arbuda, the celestial cobra, who brought a huge rock on his hood. Arbuda dropped the rock into the lake and it became the present Mount Abu. The water from the lake was displaced and Nandini saved. The spot is now known as Arbudachala, the hill of Arbuda.

Parasuram, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, killed twenty-one generations of ksatriyas (warriors) to avenge the death of his father, who was murdered by ksatriyas. It is said that the gods came to Mount Abu to ask Vasistha to restore the situation caused by the lack of ksatriyas on earth. Vasistha performed a fire sacrifice, and out of the flames came the four “fire-born” Rajput clans.

The Gaumukh Temple (1337) at this place is said to mark the spot where Vasistha’s ashram was located. Inside the temple are deities of Lord Rama, Laksman, Vasistha and his wife, Arundhati. At this place water flows out from a marble cow, giving the temple its name. Gau means “cow” and mukh means “face.”

In front of the main shrine is the sacrificial fire-pit from which the Rajput clan is said to have come. There is a tank here called Agni Kund, said to have been created by Vasistha Muni. This place is located on the road to Abu Rd, 8km southeast of Mount Abu.

Dilwara Jain Temples
There are five magnificent temples here. The Adinath Temple (Vimala Vasahi) and Neminath Temple (Luna Vasahi) are the most notable.

The Adinath Temple (Vimala Vasahi) was built completely of white marble in the 11th century (1031) by Vimala Shah, a minister of the Solanki king, Bhima I. It is dedicated to the first Jain tirthankara, Adinath. It is covered with very superb carvings. It is said that it took 1500 sculptors and 1200 laborers fourteen years to complete. The bronze figure of Adinath wears a gem necklace and has eyes made of precious stones. The temple is said to have cost 180 million rupees.

Surrounding the courtyard are fifty-two identical cubicles, each containing a figure sitting in meditation. The temple has intricate carvings of Narasimha and Krishna’s pastimes. On the ceiling of the thirty-fourth cell (old No. 29) is a beautiful sculpture of Krishna subduing the Kaliya snake. When you come off the street into the temple complex, directly in front of you is the small Mahavir Temple, and slightly to the right is the Adinath Temple.

The Neminath Temple (Luna Vasahi) was built in 1231 by the brothers Vastupal and Tejapala, ministers of the king of Viradhaval in Gujarat. It is dedicated to the 22nd tirthankara, Neminath. The carvings on this temple are extremely intricate. The lotus on the center of the dome is outstanding. Several full-time carvers are employed to maintain and restore the temple.

The Chaumukha Temple (Parsva­natha) was built around 1459 and is the tallest of the Dilwara temples. The unfinished Sri Risha Deoji (13th century) has a huge, 4.3 ton tirthankara statue made of panchadhatu (five metals)—gold, silver, brass, copper, and zinc.

These temples are open from 12 noon to 6 pm for non-Jains. Visitors are not permitted to bring anything leather into the temple; this is strictly enforced. Video cameras are also prohibited.

There is a sign at the entrance that says: “Entry of women on their monthly course is strictly prohibited.” Women may be questioned about this. These temples are a one-hour walk from the downtown. Shared jeeps (Rs 3) come here from Mount Abu.

There are four ruined temples to the northwest of the Jain temples including a Vishnu temple and the Kanya Kumari temple.

About half a km away is a small wildlife sanctuary, which contains Trevor’s Tank. Crocodiles lie around on the bank of the tank. Visitors can get a good view from the paths that lead through the park.

Viewpoints
The most famous place for people to view the sunset is Sunset Point (2km from town). You can get there by renting a camel at the end of Sunset Road.

There is a good view of the lake from the terrace of the Maharaja of Jaipur’s former summer palace. Honeymoon Point also has a view of the sunset. There are also good viewpoints at Shanti Shikhar, Robert’s Spur, and The Crags.

Brahma Kumaris Center
Located here is a spiritual university of the Brahma Kumaris (phone 3348). To take one of the courses, prospective students must contact the branch closest to where they live and arrange attendance here in advance. The introductory course (seven classes) can be taken without advanced arrangements. Courses are free, as everything is paid for by donations.

The Brahma Kumaris believe that all religions lead to God, so all are bona fide and should be studied. They have centers in over sixty countries. They practice Raja Yoga. When I visited this place, I found the people to be serious, caring, and loving. They seemed to be sincere and unmotivated. It is worth a visit.

There is a museum in the town, which explains their teachings and has daily meditation classes. Open daily 8 am to 8 pm.

Achalgarh
There is an ancient 9th century Siva temple and fort in Achalgarh, 11km from Mt Abu. The Siva temple has Siva’s toe-print instead of a linga. Lord Siva is said to have stood on Mount Abu to stop it from moving. Where the Siva-linga would normally be located, there is a deep hole that is said to go to Patala, the innermost core of the earth. In the temple compound there is a Lakshmi Narayan temple with figures of Vishnu’s ten incarnations.

There is a tank here called Mandakini Kund (near the temple) with three stone buffaloes and a king shooting them with a bow and arrow. The tank is now in ruins. It is said that the tank was once filled with ghee. When three demons came each night in the form of buffaloes to steal the ghee, the king shot them. The Parmar Chief Dharavarsha is said to have killed these three buffaloes with one arrow.

There is a path that goes to a group of interesting Jain temples on the hill (ten-minute climb).

Other Places
There is a small Dattatreya Temple at Guru Shikhar, 15km from town at 1720m (5,675 ft). This is the highest point in Rajasthan. There are 300 steps leading to the temple located on top of a hill. A little to the northwest is a temple dedicated to Ahalya, Dattatreya’s mother.

The Adhar Devi Temple is 3km northeast of town. This is a 500-year-old Durga temple. Over 400 steps must be climbed to reach it. The temple is situated in a small cave, and it is necessary to bend over to enter the temple. There is a good view of Mount Abu from here.

Shopping
The Rajasthan Handicraft Emporium, near the bus stand, and Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan are two good shops. Chacha Museum is a big, old emporium with many interesting objects.

Where to Stay
The high season goes from mid-March to mid-November. The peak times are May 15 to June 15, Diwali time in November, and Christmas/New Years. During the high season, hotel owners raise their prices and it can be difficult to find a room at any price without a reservation. During the off-season there can be up to a 50% discount off the hotel prices. The prices given are mainly for the off-season. For what you get, Mt Abu is an expensive place to stay. Hotels often have a 9 am checkout time, so you may want to look into this in advance.

During the high-season most of the hotels will be full. If you come during the peak time, the touts (commission agents) that meet you at the bus stations can actually help you get a room. They will know which hotels still have rooms left.

Where to Stay—Lower
Paying Guest Accommodations can be arranged in people’s home at the tourist office. Rates range from Rs 100 to Rs 700.
Hotel Panghat (33886), by the lake, has rooms with hot water between 7 and 9 am. During the low season rooms are Rs 150 and Rs 200 with a view of the lake.
Hotel Nakki Vihar, close to the lake in a good location, has some rooms with a view of the lake. Rooms with bath are Rs 200 to Rs 250. There are also some cheaper rooms.
Shree Ganesh Hotel (43591), which is further up the hill from the Hotel Nakki Vihar, has clean rooms for Rs 150 during the low season. The price is so reasonable because of its out of the way location. It is a friendly place and there are good views from the roof.
Hotel Lake View (38659) has rooms with hot water between 6 and 11 am and a view of Nakki Lake for Rs 450. Single rooms are Rs 125 to Rs 250, and double rooms range from Rs 250 to Rs 500. Rooms are double to triple these prices during the high season. It is a popular place, so if you want to get a room here, it is best to come around 9 am. It is not such a good place, but it has a good location and the best view in town.
At the far end of the polo grounds is the Hotel Saraswati (38887), which has clean rooms with bath and bucket hot water for Rs 125. It has other rooms for Rs 150 to Rs 400. It has a good Gujarati veg restaurant.
Mount View (38279), by the polo grounds, has nice rooms. It has hot water in the morning.
Hotel Surya Darshan (43165) has simple rooms for Rs 200 (Rs 500 high season) and bigger rooms with TV and hot water for Rs 350.
Hotel Natraj (43532), which is reached by going up the right road opposite the taxi stand, has rooms with a balcony and hot water for Rs 200/250.
Tourist Guest House, by the Tourist Bungalow just off the main road, has run-down, but clean rooms for Rs 125/150 up to Rs 200. Rooms have hot water in the morning. It has a small garden and a helpful manager. It is a good value, but is fairly basic. During the season the prices are much higher.
Hotel Chanakya (43438) has comfortable rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 350. During high-season the price is double.
RTDC Shikar Tourist Bungalow (43129; fax 43526), up a steep little hill off the main road, is a big place with 82 rooms. Rooms go for Rs 225/300 up to Rs 400/500. If you decide to stay here, ask to see some rooms before you choose one, as they range from horrible to good.

Where to Stay—Middle
Suruchi Hill Resort (43577), at the bottom end of the backside of the polo ground, has rooms for Rs 600/750, with a 30% discount during the off-season.
Hotel Sheratone (43544), by the main road, has good, big, clean rooms with bath for Rs 650 during the off-season.
Hotel Maharana Pratap (38667; fax 43576) has comfortable modern rooms for Rs 900. There is a 50% discount in the off-season.
Hotel Vrindavan (43147), near the bus stand, is a nice place that has rooms with bath for Rs 350/500 and Rs 600 for a bigger room with a TV.
Samrat International (43173) and Hotel Navijan, which share the same check-in counter, have rooms from Rs 200 for a simple single to Rs 650 and higher for a nice double during the off-season.
Maharaja Hotel (38114), across the street, has good rooms with TV and a view of the polo grounds for Rs 300/450. Both this place and the Samrat are a good choice.
Hotel Lake Palace (43254) has a good location next to the lake. Double rooms with bath are Rs 800/950 and with A/C for Rs 1200. A 30% discount is given during the off-season.
The well-managed Hotel Sunset Inn (43194; fax 43515) is a modern place with rooms for Rs 800. It has a 30% discount during the off-season.

Where to Stay—High
Hotel Connaught House (38560) was owned by the Maharaja of Jodhpur. It has rooms for Rs 1250/2100. It is a laid-back place with a beautiful garden and rooms that have a good atmosphere. It has a nice old building and a new one.
Hotel Hilltone (38391; fax 38395) is a good modern place with a pool and sauna. It has rooms for Rs 1250/1600 and Rs 1400/2400 with A/C. On the weekends and during the high season it is best to book this place in advance. There is a 20% discount during the off-season.
Hotel Hillock (38463; fax 38467) is a good value with modern clean rooms for Rs 800/1000 during the off-season and Rs 990/1300 during the high-season.
On a hill above the Hotel Hillock is the Sunrise Palace Hotel (38463; fax 38775), a former maharaja’s summer palace that has large luxurious rooms for Rs 1000/1500 to Rs 1400/1700. With up to 30% discount during the off-season, it is a good value. The rooms are well furnished and have a very good view. Recommended.
Palace Hotel (38673; fax 38674), Bikaner House, Dilwara Road, was the summer palace of the Maharaja of Bikaner. It has rooms for Rs 1250/1750 and Rs 1500/2100 with A/C. It is a recommended place, but it is often full. The hotel is located well outside the city in a peaceful location and has its own private lake, tennis courts, billiards, lawns and a beautiful garden. It has a very good restaurant. The Maharaja’s son-in-law manages it. During the season it is best to book this place in advance.
Cama Rajputana Club Resort (38205; fax 38412) has comfortable rooms and cottages for Rs 1850/2200. It has a restaurant that serves Punjabi, Chinese and Continental dishes. It has a garden and a pool. It is a nice place.

Where to Eat
King’s Food and Hencky Frencky are across the street from each other on the upper side of the polo ground going towards the lake. Both are fast-food places owned by the same people, and both have about the same menus, which includes veggie-burgers, dosas, and not-so-good pizzas. Both are good places, and the owner was able to give me exactly what I asked for.
Haveli, which is also owned by the same people, is back from the street next to King’s Food. It is a good place with a bigger menu, mainly Punjabi food.
Madras Café is a vegetarian place that serves South Indian, Gujarati and Western food. A pizza is Rs 25.
Aangan, Nakki Lake Rd, connected to the Samrat International Hotel, is a good place that has nice Gujarati thalis and other food. Open 8 am to 2 pm and 6 to 9.30 pm.
Kanak Dining Hall, uphill from the bus stand, is a good, cheap place with good South Indian dishes. Thalis are Rs 40.
Further up the hill at the bottom end of the polo grounds is the Veena Restaurant, which has good cheap Gujarati thalis (Rs 35) and a “Super Special” masala dosa.
The restaurant at the Palace Hotel (38673) is very good. A set dinner is Rs 200. It is best to book in advance.

Local Travel
It costs Rs 200 to get a taxi from Abu Road to Mt Abu. To hire a jeep for local sightseeing costs around Rs 700 for the day. Shared taxis depart to Dilwara (Rs 5) from opposite the Madras Café.  

Travel
Air  The closest airport is in Udaipur (170km), five hours away by road.

Train  The railway station for Mt Abu is at Abu Road, which is 27km (1 hr) away. It is on the railway line that goes between Ahmedabad and Delhi via Ajmer and Jaipur. It is about 1231km (765 miles) north of Mumbai. There are no direct trains to Mumbai. You have to either get a bus or train to Ahmedabad and from there get a train to Mumbai.

You can book railway tickets and make reservations in Mt Abu by the HP service station near the Tourist Bungalow. The booking office is open Mon to Sat 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4 pm, Sun 9 am to noon.

The Ashram Express #2915 (10.30 pm) goes to Delhi (13½ hr) via Jaipur (8 hr) and Ajmer (4 hr). There are other trains to Jaipur, Delhi, Jodhpur and Ajmer. There are several trains to Ahmedabad (5 hr, 187km). The Agra Fort Fast Passenger Exp #9706 takes 25 hr to reach Agra.
Ahmedabad Delhi-Ahmedabad Mail #9106 (1 pm, 4½ hr); Delhi Rajdhani Exp #2957 (10.30 pm, Mon, Wed, Fri, 11½ hr); Jaipur Rajdhani Exp #2957 (10.30 pm, Mon, Wed, Fri, 6½ hr), Aravali Exp #9707 (11.15 am, 9 hr); Jodhpur Ranakpur Exp #4708 (5 am, 5½ hr)

To get to Bhuj and other places on the Kathiawar peninsula in Gujarat you have to change trains at Palanpur, 52km south.

Bus  There are many buses departing from Mt Abu. Using one of the private buses can be much faster than going to Abu Road and taking a train. There are buses to Ajmer (8 hr), Jodhpur, Barmer, Chittorgarh (9 hr), Jaisalmer and Jaipur (11 hr). There is an express bus to Ahmedabad (7 hr) that connects with the overnight Girnar Express to Veraval (Somnath) in Gujarat. There are private luxury day buses to Udaipur (5 hr).
There are regular buses between Abu Road (27km, 45 min, Rs 10) and Mt Abu. Shared jeeps from opposite the bus stand in Abu Road depart to Mt Abu when full. As you enter Mt Abu there is a tollgate where passengers are charged Rs 5. Some state buses go to Mt Abu and others go to Abu Road, so make sure you get the correct bus.
Shobha Travels (3302), near the Samrat Hotel operates buses to Udaipur, Ajmer, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai and other places.
Bana Travels (3300) is also good.
Abu Road

This is where the closest railway station to Mt Abu is located. There are railway Retiring Rooms here and some basic hotels. Trains departing from here can be booked in Mt Abu.

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