Rajasthan

Population: 50 million
Capital: Jaipur
Area: 342,000 sq km
Literacy Rate: 39%
Best time to visit: mid-October to March
Main Languages: Rajasthani and Hindi

Rajasthan is one of the most interesting and most visited states in India. Rajasthan means “Land of the Kings.” It is the home of the Rajputs, the warrior class who were famous for fighting to the death against all odds.

The southeast area of Rajasthan is hilly and rough. Western Rajasthan is for the most part a big desert with no shortage of camels and interesting people. In the northwest there is the Thar desert, which until you get past Jaisalmer, is mainly dry land that is full of shrub. Beyond Jaisalmer going into Pakistan, there are some sand dunes.

There are some excellent places to visit in Rajasthan, including great forts and palaces. Jaisalmer, in the extreme west of Rajasthan, has a romantic, medieval fort built on top of a hill. Jodhpur has a dramatic fort on top of high hill overlooking the city, with a beautiful palace inside.

Udaipur has a fantastic palace and some beautiful, peaceful lakes. Jaipur, the capital, has the deserted Amber Fort outside the city and a newer palace inside the city. There are also good wildlife reserves in Rajasthan: Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, Sariska National Park, and Ranthambhore National Park. In southeast Rajasthan there are several outstanding forts at Bundi, Chittorgarh, and Kota. Pushkar is a peaceful little holy town in the middle of Rajasthan. There are many towns in the Shekhawati area, north of Jaipur, where there are many old beautiful havelis (houses). Rajasthan is packed with interesting and exotic sites.

One of the main highlights of Rajasthan is the local people. Visitors are enchanted by their colorful dress. The people are hard working, friendly and religious. As a class, they are helpful to tourists and will often not tolerate non-Rajasthanis coming to Rajasthan to take advantage of the tourists. So Rajasthan is relatively hassle-free after you get out of the big cities.

There are several major festivals in Rajasthan, the most famous being the Camel Fair in Pushkar. Other important festivals are the Dussehra Festival in Jaipur, the Jaisalmer Desert Festival in Jaisalmer, the Camel Festival, and the Nagaur Fair.

The best time to visit Rajasthan is between late October and the middle of March, when daytime temperatures are milder and the nights are cool (often very cold). From April to the end of September the temperature is very hot during the day. In May and June it can go over 45ºC (115ºF). Even at night it is uncomfortably hot.
Rajasthan operates the “Paying Guest Scheme,” a facility where guests can stay in a room in a local family’s house. This is arranged through the tourist offices across the state.

NOTE If a friend or relative of mine was to come from America for a three-week vacation, I would consider it unlikely +to not bring them for a week to Rajasthan. Rajasthan is a recommended place to visit.

History
The Rajputs controlled Rajasthan in various capacities for at least a thousand years before Independence in 1947. The Rajputs were fanatical warriors, who would never surrender, but would fight to the death. If there was no hope for victory, jauhar would be declared. During jauhar the warriors dress themselves in saffron colored robes and the women would dress themselves in their wedding dresses. The men would then charge out of the fort to meet certain death, fighting to the last man. The women would then enter a huge funeral fire. In some battles ten of thousands of Rajputs died this way.

When different Muslims powers invaded India, they always had great problems defeating the Rajputs, and in many cases they would just avoid them. The Rajputs would build impressive, sturdy forts, which were very hard to conquer. What eventually caused their defeat was that as soon as they defeated an outside force, they would often start fighting amongst themselves and therefore they could not present a united front. Therefore, they were conquered one after another. Usually they would not stay down very long, and they would reconquer what they lost.

Akbar was able to conquer most of Rajasthan by forming alliances with different Rajput powers. He also had Rajputs lead his armies. As the Mughals lost power, the Rajputs established independent kingdoms across Rajasthan. At the same time the Marathas were becoming a powerful force in central India, and they started doing devastating raids into Rajasthan. At the same time the British were gaining control of the rest of India. Because it would have been so difficult to control the Rajputs, the British signed treaties with them, in which the Rajput kings would keep their independent rule, but had certain political restrictions and they had to give taxes to the British.

At Independent, in order to get the independent Rajput kingdoms to join the rest of India, they were given certain concessions. They were allowed to keep their titles and properties, and they were given stipends relative to their status. Twenty-two Rajput states merged together and became the state of Rajasthan. In the early 1970s Indira Gandhi got rid of the stipends and restricted the maharaja’s rights to much of their properties. Many of the maharajas were forced to convert their palaces into luxury hotels or museums in order to keep up the standards they were used to. Even today, many of the maharajas are still loved and respected by the people.

Samode
Samode, 45km northwest of Jaipur, has a nice 18th century palace in which guests can rent rooms. It was owned by the Rawal of Samode, one of the noblemen under the Maharaja of Jaipur. It has an exquisite Diwan-i-khas (Audience Hall) which is full of mirror work and original paintings. Non-guests can visit the palace for Rs 100.

Samode Bagh is a beautiful garden, 3km from the palace. Above the palace is a Fort. To reach it, visitors must climb 300 steps. There is a good view from the top.

Samode Palace (01423 4114; fax 4123; book at Samode Haveli in Jaipur (0141) 632-407; fax 631-397), has rooms for Rs 2600/2950. There are many paintings on the walls, especially in the dining room.

To get here by bus you first take a bus to Chomu (1 hr) and then another bus to Samode (30 min).

Kishangarh
This town is known for the miniature paintings produced here.

Roopangarh Fort Palace (01463 3678; Delhi 011 665-021), about 26km from Ajmer, is a 17th century fort now used as a hotel. It has comfortable rooms with bath for Rs 1550/1900. They can arrange camel and jeep safaris, and village tours. It has a good restaurant.

Near Udaipur

Eklingji Temple
This impressive, white marble temple dates to around the 15th century. Eklingji, Lord Siva, is the patron deity of the royal family of Udaipur. Eklingji is known as “Kailashpuri,” the abode of Lord Siva. Inside the temple are silver doors, silver lamps, and a silver bull. There is a black marble, four-faced deity of Lord Siva in the temple. There are some other temples in the village.

This temple is in the small village of Eklingji, 24km north of Udaipur. The temple is open 4.30 to 6.30 am, 10.30 am to 1 pm, and 5.30 to 7 pm. Photography is prohibited. Many city tours stop here. Buses come here every hour from Udaipur (30 min).

Nagda
Located about 2km from Eklingji Temple inxe "Nagda" Nagda are three ancient temples. The Sas Bahu Temple (Mother and Daughter temple) is interesting architecturally and has intricate carvings.

The Adbudji Temple is also architecturally interesting, but is in ruins. You can come here by car or bike. A bike can be rented in Eklingji.
Heritage Resorts (0294 440-382; fax 527-549) has rooms for Rs 1650/3000.

Kankroli and Rajsamand Lake
Kankroli is the important Dwarkadhish Temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. It is north of Nathdwar.

Rajsamand Lake is a few km northeast of Kankroli. This lake was created by a dam built by Maharaja Raja Singh in 1660. Located here are some chhatris.

Buses come here every hour from Udaipur.

Fort Kumbhalgarh
Fort Kumbhalgarh is 84km north of Udaipur, one km up on top of a large hill. This huge fort was built in the 15th century by Maharaja Kumbha and was considered impregnable. The combined armies of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, Marwar and Amber besieged it. They eventually poisoned the water supply and took the fort.

The fort has seven gates and huge walls that extend for about 35km, some over 6m (20 ft) wide. Inside are palaces, temples, gardens, and tombs.

The Cloud Palace at the highest point of the fort is the most interesting. It is a fairly difficult, half-hour climb to reach the fort. The watchman will give tours for a tip.

Open daily from dawn to sunset. There are stalls that sell snacks and drinks.

Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary
Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary nearby, is home to a large number of wolves. It also has leopards, antelopes, bears, and flying squirrels. The best time to visit is March to June, when most of the waterholes dry up.

Practicalities
Hotel Ratandeep (02954 4217) has good rooms for Rs 600 and dorm beds for Rs 150.

Aodhi Hotel (02954 4222) has a peaceful location with rooms for Rs 1200/2400. It has a pool, a restaurant, and can arrange horse and jeep rides. It is a good place. It can be booked at the

Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel (0294 528-016; fax 528-006) in Udaipur.

Buses depart to Kumbhalgarh from Udaipur at 8 and 11 am, and 2 and 2.30 pm (3 hr, Rs 30). It is a 2½ km walk to the fort, from where the bus drops you off.

Ranakpur
Ranakpur, 96km north of Udaipur, is one of the largest and most important Jain pilgrimage centers. Most of the intricately carved, beautiful temples here date from between the 12th and 15th centuries.

The main temple is the white marble Chaumukha Temple (1439), dedicated to the first tirthankara, Adinath. It has twenty-nine intricately carved halls with 1444 pillars, of which no two are alike. There are also impressive temples dedicated to

Parsvanath and Neminath. The temples are open daily to non-Jains noon to 5 pm; camera Rs 20; video camera Rs 100.

There is a Hindu temple dedicated to Surya, the sun-god. The Amba Mata Temple is one km away.

Practicalities
If you want to stay overnight, there is a very basic dharamshala. It has vegetarian lunches and dinners. They ask for a small donation. Smoking is prohibited and lights must be out by 10 pm.

Shilpi Tourist Bungalow (02934 85074) has rooms with attached bath for Rs 250/275 and Rs 400/450 with air-cooling. It has a restaurant.
The Castle (02934 85133) has good rooms for Rs 900/1000.

Maharani Bagh Orchard Retreat (02934 85151), 4km from Ranakpur, has comfortable cottages for Rs 1000/1250. Lunch and dinner are Rs 250. You can book this place in Jodhpur at the Umaid Bhawan Palace (0291 433-316; fax 635-373).
The nearest railway station is 35km away at Falna. Private bus companies arrange tours to Ranakpur from Udaipur and Mt Abu. There are several buses a day to Udaipur (4½ hr), Jaipur, Mt Abu and Jodhpur.

There is a STD/ISD telephone and a post office in the Shilpi Tourist Bungalow.

Ghanerao
Ghanerao Royal Castle (02934 84035) has good rooms with bath (bucket hot water) for Rs 12000/1400. It should be booked in advance. They arrange trekking and village tours.

Narlai
Visitors may want to stay here while visiting Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur. There are some old temples and step-wells in town.

Narlai has good rooms with bath and hot water for Rs 1500/2000. It has a good restaurant. It is a nice place. It can be booked at Ajit Bhawan Hotel (0291 437-410; fax 637-774) in Jodhpur.

Jaisamand Lake
This attractive lake (10km by 15km), 50km southeast of Udaipur, has some beautiful marble chhatris on its banks. There is a Wildlife Sanctuary in the area.

The Tourist Bungalow, on the shore of the lake, has rooms for Rs 300/400.

Jaisamand Island Resort (02906 2222) has modern comfortable rooms for Rs 1800/3000. It is in a secluded area and rooms have a view of the lake. It can be booked at Hotel Lake End (0294 23841; fax 0294 523-898) in Udaipur.

There are regular buses from Udaipur to here..

Dungarpur
Dungarpur, 110km south of Udaipur, has two interesting palaces and is a good place to take a break. The Udai Bilas Palace (19th century) is one of the best palaces in Rajasthan. Above the village is the old Juna Mahal Palace (13th century), which has nice paintings and glasswork. There is a museum here.

The Baneswaar Festival takes place at the Baneswaar Temple, about 72km from Dungarpur in Jan/Feb. Thousands of members of the Bhil tribe come to this festival.

Udai Bilas Palace (02964 30808; fax 31008) has comfortable rooms for Rs 1700/2100 and suites for Rs 3000. This place should be booked in advance. It is located next to a nice lake.
There are regular buses from Udaipur to Dungarpur.

Deeg (Dig)
During the 18th century,xe "Deeg" Deeg was the capital of the Jat Kingdom. It was the second capital of the Bharatpur kingdom. It is 35km north of Bharatpur, 90km from Agra, and 50km east of Alwar. The interesting places to see here are the Deeg Palace and the Fort. Deeg is worth visiting, but few foreigners come. It is a convenient day trip to Deeg from Bharatpur, Mathura or Agra.
Deeg Palace (Monsoon Pleasure Palace)
The main palace, Gopal Bhavan (18th century), is impressive. It is one of the most beautiful buildings in India, and is a combination of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The palace was used by the Jat Maharajas until the early 1970s and is in excellent condition. Many of the rooms contain their original furniture.

In front of the Gopal Bhavan palace is the Gopal Sagar Tank. On either side of the tank are two beautiful pavilions. The palace and tank are surrounded by well-maintained gardens. The 500 fountains are turned on once a year during the Monsoon Festival in August. The Keshav Bhavan (Summer Pavilion), Sheesh Mahal, and Kishan Bhavan are other interesting structures. Open from 9 am to 12 pm and 1 to 6 pm.

Deeg Fort
There is a large, ancient Fort built by Suraj Mal in the mid-18th century, on top of the hill overlooking the town. This fort has twelve bastions and a wide shallow moat. There is an old palace inside the fort. The walls of the fort rise to about 25m (80 ft) above the moat. There are old cannons on the bastions of the fort.

There was a major battle here in which the Jats held off an attack of a combined force of the Mughal and Maratha armies, a force of 80,000 men. Suraj Mal attacked the Red Fort in Delhi eight years later.

Practicalities
This is a fairly small town with almost no facilities. It is best to come here on a day trip.

RTDC Motel Deeg (05641 21000) has clean rooms with bath for Rs 350/400.

To Alwar there are buses every 15 minutes (2½ hr) and a daily train (2 hr). There are buses to Bharatpur (1 hr) and Mathura.

Jodhpur Area

Jhalamand
Jhalamand is 12km south of Jodhpur. There is a small castle here converted into a hotel. The family-run Hotel Jhalamand Lake Palace (0291 545-991; fax 542-240) has an excellent view of Jodhpur Fort and the desert, and has a pleasant courtyard. Room are $70/85. They can arrange village safaris.

Sardar Samand
Sardar Samand Lake, 56km from Jodhpur, is beautiful. In the area of the lake are several villages inhabited by the Bishnois, which can be visited. The Bishnoi women dress in colorful dresses. Blackbuck roam freely in the area, because the Bishnoi protect them. They also protect the Khejri (prosopis sinreria) tree because the blackbuck eat only the leaves of this tree. In 1787, 300 Bishnois sacrificed themselves to protect these trees when the men of the maharaja came to chop them down. In Bishnoi villages you can see thatched houses, kitchen designs, and how the villagers apply cow dung to their walls and floors to disinfect their houses.

Many migratory birds come to the lake, including flamingos, pelicans, and cranes.

Sardasamand Lake Resort (0291 33316; fax 35373) is a former summer palace with luxury rooms. It has a swimming pool next to the lake and a tennis court.

Mandore
Mandore, 10km north of Jodhpur, is the old capital of Marwar, founded by the Rathor Maharaja Rao Chunda in 1395. Not much of the old city still exists. There are nice gardens here, and Mandore is a popular tourist site, especially on weekends.

Near the old gate of Mandore, called Ajit Pole, is the Tetis Crore Dewtas Sal (Shrine of Thirty-three Million Gods and Goddesses) with paintings of the various gods. The Hall of Heroes has sixteen life-sized, beautifully painted statues of different Hindu gods and goddesses: Krishna, Rama, Surya, Siva, Brahma, Chamunda, etc., and important historical figures of the area.

The Royal Crematorium at Mandore, reserved for the rulers of Jodhpur, has many finely carved cenotaphs (memorials). The best and largest of these is the one dedicated to Ajit Singh. It is said that the forty-four queens of Ajit Singh performed sati, dying in his funeral fire, in 1924. Located here is the cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh.

On a hill above the garden is a rocky plateau, the site of the old city. At this place there are a good number of ruined temples. There is a small Museum, which contains sculptures from the 5th to 9th centuries. There is a ruined 8th century temple on a nearby hilltop.

Osian
At Osian, 67km northwest of Jodhpur, there are sixteen impressive Jain and Hindu temples, some dating back to the 8th century. These are among the most intricately carved temples in India, so it is worth a visit. Osian was a major trading center between the 8th and 12th centuries.

Near the bus stand are temples dating from the 8th and 9th centuries, which are the oldest temples in town. There are carvings on these temples and pictures of Krishna and other deities. One of the important temples here is the ancient Mataji ka Mandir (also called Sachini Devi ka Mandir). This temple maintains active worship and is dedicated to Durga. This 12th century temple is at the top of some stairs, from where you have a view of the entire town.

The Surya Temple, dedicated to the sun-god, is interesting. Nearby, the largest temple in Osian is dedicated to Mahavir (the last of the Jain tirthankaras). It has an intricately carved Toran (gateway). Even though there are so many Jain temples in Osian, there are no Jain families living here.

Camel Camp is in a great location on an isolated sand dune. Tents with common bath are Rs 350 per person and a tent with bath is Rs 1100. Deluxe tents, which include meals and a half-day camel safari are Rs 3600. Advance bookings are essential. You book at the Safari Club (0291 37023), High Court Colony, in Jodhpur.
It takes about two hours to get to here by bus from Jodhpur.

Nagaur
Located here is an old fort and palace. There is a week-long Camel Festival in late January or early February. During the fair there are camel races and cultural entertainment. There is not much accommodation here. Nagaur is 135km northeast of Jodhpur.

RTDC Khurjan (01582 2681) has rooms for Rs 350/450.

Royal Tents are spacious luxury tents for Rs 2500 to 6000. You book them at the Umaid Bhawan Palace (0291 33316; fax 35373) in Udaipur. For the Camel Festival it should be booked well in advance .

A RTDC Tourist Village is set up during the Nagaur Fair. Tents are $40/53 during the festival. It can be booked in advance at the Rajasthan tourist offices in Jaipur (0141 202-761; fax 201-045), Hotel Swagatam, or in Delhi (011 338-3837; fax 338-2823) at Bikaner House, Pandara Rd.

Khimsar
Welcomgroup Royal Castle (01585 62345; fax 62228), 3 hours from Jodhpur, is a 16th century palace with rooms for $90/140. The best rooms are in the original palace and have antique furniture. They arrange jeep safaris to see blackbuck.

Luni
Hotel Fort Chanwa (Jodhpur number 0291 84216), a 200-year-old fort, is a pleasant place to stay. It has well-designed rooms for Rs 1650/1900. It has a good restaurant. Village safaris can be arranged. It is 60km south of Jodhpur.

Rohet
Rohet Garh (02936 68231), 40km south of Jodhpur, has comfortable rooms for Rs 1500/1900. It is a peaceful 17th century fortress with a traditional design. The rooms are all different. The main room has old paintings, weapons, traditional furniture and family memorabilia. A jeep or camel safari can be arranged.

Pokaran
There is an impressive, red sandstone 14th century fort and excellent havelis here. The fort has an interestixe "Lodarva" ng small museum (daily except Sun; admission Rs 20; camera Rs 10). Pokaran is 110km south of Jaisalmer. The recent nuclear test were done near here.
RTDC Motel Godavan (02994 22275) has rooms with bath for Rs 350/550 and cottages for Rs 550/650. Monika (02994 22269) has rooms for Rs 350/400.

Fort Pokaran (02994 22274; fax 22279), in the fort, has rooms with bath for Rs 1200/1400. It has a restaurant. It should be reserved in advance.
Desert Heritage has comfortable well-maintained cottages.

There are regular buses to Jaisalmer (2½ hr).

Barmer
Located 155km south of Jaisalmer, Barmer is known for good handicraft products. There are two festivals here: the Barmer Thar Festival (early March) and the Barmer Cattle Fair (March/April) in nearby Tilwara.

Hotel Kailas Sarowar (02982 20730), Station Rd, has rooms for Rs 350/450.

Krishna Hotel (02982 20785), Station Rd, has clean rooms with air-cooling for Rs 400/500 and Rs 700/750 with A/C.

There is a daily train to Jodhpur. There are regular buses to Jodhpur (5 hr) and Jaisalmer (3½ hr).

Baroli
In Baroli, 50km southwest of Kota, are 9th and 10th century temples. The main temple is the well-preserved Ghateswara Temple, which has interesting carvings. Some of the sculptures in the Kota Museum came from these temples. There are regular buses from Kota to Baroli.

Darrah Wildlife Sanctuary
Located 60km from Kota, this 250 sq km park is home to leopards, Indian wolf, sloth bears, and chinkaras. You must contact the Wildlife Office at the zoo at Kota to visit the park. There is a basic Forest Rest House here.

Jhalarpatan
Jhalarpatan, 90km southeast of Kota, is a nice town containing several 11th century temples. The Surya temple on the main road is the most interesting. There is also the Dwarkadish Temple, dedicated to Krishna.

The Shantinath Jain Temple has intricate carvings and paintings. In October/November there is the well-attended Chandrabhaga Fair held on the bank of the Chandrabhaga River.

Jhalawar
Area Code: 07432
In Jhalawar is a Fort that now contains government offices. You need permission to visit the Janma Khas, which is a room covered with mirrors, paintings, and colored glass (daily except Fri 10 am to 4.30 pm). There is a museum that has a weapon collection and ancient sculptures (daily except Fri 10 am to 4 pm). Jhalawar is 85km south of Kota and 6 km north of Jhalawar.

The tourist office is at the RTDC Hotel Chandrawati. There is no place to change money here. There is a place to hire a bike near the Purvaj Hotel.

Practicalities
Hotel Dwarika (22626), on Hospital Rd, has rooms with bath for Rs 180/225.
 RTDC Hotel Chandrawati (30015), on Jhalraptan Rd, has rooms for Rs 190/230.
 Purvaj Hotel (30951), on Mangalpura, is an old Haveli with rooms for Rs 150/200.
Buses go to Kota (3 hr), Ajmer (7hr), etc.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides