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| HOME > India > Rajasthan > Shekhawati | ||||
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Shekhawati Shekhawati is an interesting area of towns within the triangle of Jaipur, Delhi, and Bikaner. These towns are famous for the beautifully designed, carved, and painted haveli houses. Most of the havelis were built from the 18th to the early 1900s. Around the 15th century, several important trading posts were established in this area, and many of the merchants became quite wealthy. In the middle of the 19th century, the merchants took the protection of the British and the Maharajas of Jaipur and Bikaner. Peace came to the area and the merchants felt safe to build their havelis. Many of them spent their riches in building truly outstanding houses. There are also interesting forts, step-wells, cenotaphs, and mosques. The main towns in this area are Jhunjhunu, Fatehpur, Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, and Mandawa. You can just wander through these towns and see no shortage of interesting sites. These places are not yet so popular with tourists. The Painted Towns of Shekhawati, by Ilay Cooper, gives a detailed account of the towns, buildings, and history of the area. It has some maps of the larger towns. It
is usually better to get around by bus because the trains are slow and
run infrequently. Another good way to get around is by taxi (Rs 4 per
km). Jeeps are usually available near the railway stations in Sikar,
Jhunjhunu, and Mukundgarh. Most of the havelis are privately owned and are not open to the public. The owners may not appreciate someone rushing into their house, uninvited. When you enter the inner courtyard, you are supposed to remove your shoes.
Sikar Located here are interesting painted temples, step-wells, and a clock tower. The New Palace has interesting paintings, including one of a map of the town in the Sheeh Mahal hall. The Deen Dayal Biyani (around 1900), Somani, and Murarka havelis are interesting. There are carvings in the Gopinath and Madana-Mohan temples. Danta Dera Kila (89362), built in the 18th century, has rooms for Rs 1100/1250. They can pick you up at the railway stations in the area. You can reserve it with Dundlod House (0141 366-276), Civil Lines, Jaipur 302019. There
are regular buses to Jaipur, Fatehpur and Nawalgarh, and also buses
to Delhi, Bikaner and Ajmer. There are trains to Jaipur (3 hr, 4 daily),
Fatehpur (1½ hr), Jhunjhunu (2 hr), Nawalgarh (50 min) and Churu
(3 hr, 3 daily). Nand Lal Devra Haveli has an interesting painted ceiling as you enter the house and nice paintings on the courtyard walls. There is a 17th century baori (step-well) near the bus stand. Also good are Singhania (1880) and Saraogi havelis. Kedia Guest House (01571 21088), near the bus stand, has cheap, basic, clean rooms. RTDC
Hotel Haveli (01571 20293), south part of town, has rooms for Rs 350/450
and Rs 700/800 with A/C. It has a restaurant. They can arrange a taxi
to visit the other towns in the area. This nice, peaceful town has many beautifully painted havelis. Located here is the Khetri Mahal (1765), a minor palace, which is definitely worth seeing. There is a good view from the roof. The Bihariji Temple (1775) has nice paintings from the Ramayana on it. The
Modi Haveli (1895) in the main bazaar is considered
to have some of the best paintings in the Shekhawati area. There are
paintings of maharajas and many of Krishna’s pastimes. The Tibrewala
Haveli (1883) in the main bazaar has many murals on it and
colored glass windows. Jhunjhunu is a good place at which to base oneself while exploring the area because of the good accommodations and travel facilities. The
Tourist Office (32909) is in the Hotel Shiv Shekhawati (Mon to Sat 10
am to 5 pm, except the 2nd Sat in the month). It has maps of many of
the main towns in Shekhawati. Hotel Januma Resort (32871; fax 32603) has comfortable, traditionally designed rooms for Rs 1000/1100. It has a pool (for non-guest Rs 75) and a good outdoor restaurant. Travel Located here is an interesting Fort (1737) built by Thakur Nawal Singh. Just after entering the south gate called Nansa Gate (now named Ramilas Poddar Gate), make a left and you will come to Aath Haveli, which is seven havelis together, covered in paintings. The Hotel Raj Hans Restaurant has the impressive Sheeh Mahal (Mirror Hall), which among its ceiling paintings has a painting of maps of Nawalgarh and Jaipur (Rs 10). Some other good havelis are Poddar Haveli built in the 1920s (east past Poddar Gate), Bhagton ki Haveli, Goenka Haveli, Khedwal Bhavan, and the Hem Raj Kulwal Haveli. The Ganga Mai Temple, near Nansa Gate, is also interesting. Where
to Stay Travel Mukundgarh
Fort Heritage Hotel (reserve in Delhi 011 685-0451) has rooms for Rs
1700/2400. It has interesting paintings on it. It has a pool and restaurant,
and stages puppet shows. Good havelis are Jagathia Haveli and Goenka Haveli, which has three painted courtyards. There is also the interesting Satyanarayan Vishnu Temple. Dera Dundlod Kila (01594 52519; Jaipur 0141 366-276) has comfortable rooms with baths and hot water for Rs 900/1000. They can arrange good jeep, camel or horse safaris. As the rooms are all different, it is best to see a few. It has a splendid Diwan-i-khas and some rooms have good paintings on the walls. It has a good restaurant. Castle
Hotel (0141 361-611; fax 373-318), in the center of the town, is a Heritage
Hotel. The Gulab Rai Haveli (1875) has some of the best murals in Shekhawati on both the exterior and interior walls. The Binsidhar Newatia Haveli, next to the State Bank of Bikaner, has interesting paintings of people using 20th century inventions. Goenka Haveli in the west part of town, and the Nanda Lal Murmuria Haveli next door, have interesting paintings. Where
to Stay
Lakshmangarh Mahansar Narayan
Niwas Castle (reserve in Delhi 011 688-6909; 011 688-6122) is an interesting
hotel serving good meals. The
dharamshala (01562 5024) next to the Ram Mandir (temple), 1km from the
railway station, is a good cheap place to stay. Rajend Restaurant, across
from the railway station, has cheap thalis.
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