Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)

Mamallapuram, located 60km south of Chennai on the Bay of Bengal, means “the town of Mamalla, the great wrestler.” Mamalla is the title given to the Pallava ruler Narasimha Varman I, who built many of the temples here. The previous name Mahabalipuram means “the town of the great king Bali,” from whom Lord Vamana (Vishnu) begged three paces of land. This town was an ancient port of the Pallavas kings, who ruled from Kanchipuram from the 4th to the 8th centuries. It is believed that most of the carvings were done under the patronage of the Pallavas kings, Narasimha Varma I (630-668 AD) and Narasimha Varman II (700-728).

The rock carvings here are divided into three zones: the main group of carvings on the slopes of the hill, the Shore temple to the east, and the Pancha Ratha (Five Chariots) temples to the south. The temples here are among the earliest examples of monumental architecture in South India. They were made mostly between the 5th and 8th centuries. Most of the cave temples are carved out of a granite hill that is close to the sea. The Five Rathas are located south of this area.

The Shore temple is located right next to the sea.
Besides the famous Shore temple, there are 14 cave temples, 8 monolithic rathas, and a number of other smaller rock sculptures. Many of the monuments are floodlit at night. There is a dance festival here during January and February.

Mamallapuram is one of the more visited places by foreign tourists in South India. It is a peaceful town with a good atmosphere and is a pleasant place to stay for a few days or more, just to relax. It has a good selection of cheap accommodations and good restaurants. It has a good beach, but I did not see anyone swimming there, as the water was very rough and appeared extremely dangerous.

Orientation
East and West Raja Streets, which run north-south, are the main streets in town. The bus station is between the two streets. The carved cave temples are to the west of the village, away from the sea. The Five Ratha temples are to the south of the village and the Shore temple is to the east of the village, right next to the sea. East Raja Street turns into Kovalam Rd at the north end of town. If you head north out of town along Kovalam Rd you come to a series of good middle-class hotels.
You can get a good view of the area from the lighthouse, which is open from 2 to 4 pm, or you can just climb to the top of the hill.

Information
The Tourist Office (42232), north end of E Raja St, is one of the first buildings you see when you come from Chennai. It is located at the beginning of the village and is open from 10 am to 5.45 pm. Besides doing a good job of helping you with the local sites, they can also help you with travel information.

You can change travelers cheques at the Indian Overseas Bank, TKM Rd, or at the larger hotels. You can hire a bike on the main road by the bus stand.

The STD/ISD phone booth, 137 E Raja St, opposite the Indian Overseas Bank, is open 24 hours. The post office is near the tourist office. Postal Code: 603104.

You can arrange a guide at the Archaeological Survey Office on E Raja Street, south of the bus station. They publish a guidebook that gives a good explanation of the sites.

Dr Gladys Indira is supposed to be a good doctor. Her office is near the bank.

Hemnath Travels (42301), Othavadai; and GG Travels, Gazebo Restaurant, 102 E Raja St, are established travel agencies. Metro Tours (42456), 137 E Raja St, can arrange tickets and taxis.
You can get a good Ayurvedic massage at Sri Murugan Guest House.

Tours
There are tours operated by both ITDC and TTDC conducted from Chennai covering Mamallapuram, Kanchipuram, and Tirukkalukundram. It leaves at 7.30 am and returns at 6 pm. This is a quick way of visiting these places, as you can easily spend at least a day in both Mamallapuram and Kanchipuram.

Mamallapuram Dance Festival
The festival runs from the beginning of January till the beginning of February. Except for one continuous week of daily dances, there are classical Indian dances only on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday at Arjuna’s Penance. You can ask for information about the festival from the Tamil Nadu Tourist Office in Chennai or other major cities.

CAUTION The current by the Shore temple is very dangerous and many people have drowned there. There are some areas south of the Shore temple where people swim, but it pays to be very careful.

Talasayana (Sthala Sayana) Perumal Temple
The Sthala Sayana Perumal Temple is one of the important Vishnu Divya Desam temples. It has a fairly big gopuram (entrance tower). This temple is not far from the bus stand, in the center of town. The Palanquin Festival in Oct/Nov is a major festival.

Arjuna’s Penance (The Descent of the Ganges)
This is considered to be one of the great works of art in India. It is an artistic masterpiece. It covers a rock wall 31m (96 ft) by 16m (40 ft), and has over 100 figures carved on it. One carving of an elephant is 5m (16 ft) long. There is an interesting relief of a cat meditating, while rats freely play around it.

There are two schools of thought about this sculpture. One school says the sculpture depicts the story of Arjuna undertaking penance to get a powerful weapon from Lord Siva to destroy his enemies. To witness this, visitors rushed from the heavens and earth.

Another school says that the scene depicts the penance of Bhagiratha, to save the souls of his ancestors. After a long penance he brought the Ganges down to earth. The cleft in the rock depicts the Ganges descending to the world.
It is next to the Talasayana Temple. To take a photo, the light is best in the morning.

Hill Area
To the left of Arjuna’s Penance is Krishna Mandapa. It shows Krishna lifting Govar-dhan Hill in order to protect the people of Braj (Vrindavan) from the fury of Indra.
Up the hill behind Arjuna’s Penance is a good place to just wander around and see the other cave temples and carvings. On top of the hill is a peaceful place with a good view of the countryside. There are ten cave temples on the hill.

When you come to the top of the hill, if you make a left, you come to the interesting Varaha Cave temple. The Varaha sculpture shows Lord Vishnu taking the form of a boar to rescue the earth. The Lord is coming out of the ocean holding the earth. There is a sculpture of Vamana (Trivikrama), Lord Vishnu as the dwarf Brahmin incarnation, on the southern wall of the cave. There is also a sculpture of Gajalakshmi, Lakshmi being bathed by two elephants (gaja), and a four-armed Durga.
If you continue to your left you come to the Rayala Gopuram, and a little further is the Ramanuja Mandapa.

If you make a right when you come up the hill from Arjuna’s Penance you come to the Ganesh Ratha, a monolithic temple that is 3.3m (11 ft) by 6m (19) ft and 8.5m (28 ft) high. To the west is the Pidari Rathas and the Valayankuttai.

If you keep walking up the hill (north) you come to Krishna’s Butter Ball, which is a huge almost totally circular boulder, that stays balanced on top of the hill. A little further is the Trimurti Cave, which contains bas-reliefs of the trinity—Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva.

South of Arjuna’s Penance, at the highest point of the hill, is the Olakaneswara Cave Temple, or “God of the Flaming Eye.” It used to be used as a lighthouse until the beginning of the 20th century. Close by is the new lighthouse (open 2 to 4 pm), from which you can get a good view of the area. Photography is strictly banned from the lighthouse.

Below the old lighthouse is the Mahisasuramardhini Mandapa (Durga Cave). There is a sculpture in this cave that shows the goddess Durga fighting with the buffalo-headed demon, Mahishasura. There is another sculpture of Lord Vishnu lying on Sesa Naga in his cosmic sleep. The carvings in this cave are especially good.

Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots)
The Five Rathas are named after the five Pandava brothers and their wife Draupadi, the heroes of the Mahabharata. They do not have anything to do with the Pandavas, and are not really chariots. Actually they are unfinished monolithic temples carved in the 7th century from large granite boulders. They are located about one km from the center of town, past the lighthouse. There is nothing around them.

The Dharmaraja Ratha is shaped like a pyramid and is 10.5m by 9m and 10.5m high (35 by 29 and 35 ft high). It has many detailed carvings on it. There are sculptures of Ardhanariswara (Siva and a female as one person), Harihara (Vishnu and Siva combined), Brahma, and King Narasimha Varman I.

The Bhima Ratha has a wagon-shaped roof and is north of the Dharmaraja Ratha. It is 7.8m by 7.5m and 14.5m high (26 by 25 and 48 ft high). Its bottom level is incomplete, except for the lions. The Arjuna Ratha contains Vishnu and his carrier, Garuda. It is 8m by 9m and 10.5m high (27 by 29 and 35 ft high). It has carvings of Indra with his elephant. Behind the Arjuna Ratha is an excellent sculpture of Nandi, Siva’s bull carrier.

The Draupadi Ratha, which is dedicated to Durga, and the Sahadeva Ratha are the smallest temples. Near the Sahadeva Ratha is a life-size sculpture of an elephant.

Shore Temples
The beautiful Shore temple is a two-towered structure built in the 7th century. This impressive temple is a World Heritage Monument. There are actually two temples, one facing east and one facing west. The one facing east is a Lord Siva temple with a Siva-linga. The other temple is a Vishnu temple with a 2.5m Maha-Vishnu sleeping on Ananta Sesa carved onto a granite boulder, facing east. Lord Vishnu’s pastimes are carved on the outer wall of the Vishnu temple.

A wall has been built around these temples to protect them from the ocean. These temples are one km from town, right next to the ocean. The Rs 5 admission also includes the Five Rathas.
North of Town

North of the main sites is the Tiger Cave (8th century), the Mukundanayanar Temple, and the Atiranachanda Mandapa. At the entrance of the Tiger Cave shrine, which is dedicated to Durga, are carvings of tiger heads. The Tiger Cave is in a peaceful area about 5km north of town. You can get there by taking a Chennai bus or by renting a bike. There is a sign posted on the right side of the road, but if you’re coming via the beach there is no sign.

Kapaleswara-tirtha is located at the foot of a hill, about 2km north of town. There is a Siva-linga called Kapaleswara and also a pond.

School of Sculpture & Museum
There is an official state School of Sculpture on E Raja Street. Open 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 6 pm. The Government College of Sculpture (42261) is 3km north of the center of town, on Covelong Rd. You can visit the school, but you should first make an appointment.

Local carvers give lessons to people on how to make stone carvings. People stay a week or two and learn how to make their own masterpieces. It looks quite relaxing.

The Archaeological Museum, on W Raja St, by the lighthouse (daily 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 5 pm), has a collection of Pallava sculptures that were found in the area. They also sell good postcards at a reasonable price.

Shopping
This a good place to get soapstone carvings, as they are produced here. Poompuhar Handicrafts Emporium, near the Shore Temple, has a good selection of high quality products. Himalaya Handicrafts on the main street has used books.

Where to Stay—Lower
The room rates here are very reasonable. During the Mamallapuram Dance Festival in January it may be hard to find a room on the weekends.
You can get very cheap rooms in the houses of the local villagers, on the way to the Pancha Rathas. The rates are about Rs 75 for a night or Rs 350 for a week. Facilities may be very basic, with outhouse toilets and no electricity. Ask around in the restaurants about rooms for rent. You can also ask the touts around the bus stand, but if you go with them the price will be higher.
Mrs Rajalaxmi’s has rooms with common bath and bucket showers.
Tina Blue View Lodge (42319), a seven-minute walk from the bus stand, is a good place with single rooms for Rs 100 and doubles with a balcony for Rs 150 to Rs 300.
Victory Guest House (43179), 5 Othavadai Street, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 200. It does not charge tax (or at least didn’t).
Close by, near the beach, is the popular Lakshmi Lodge (42463), Othavadai St, which has good clean rooms for Rs 125/160 to Rs 250/300. The upstairs rooms are better. It has a rooftop restaurant.
A little down the road is the Ramakrishna Lodge (42331, 42431), 8 Othavadai Street. It is a good place with clean rooms with bath starting at Rs 100/175. The problem with both these places is that there is a temple nearby that blasts extremely loud music from 4.30 till about 7.30 am in the morning and again at other times in the day. It is hard to believe that everyone on the street is not totally deaf.
Murugan Guest House (42552), next door near the beach, is a good place with downstairs rooms for Rs 200 and Rs 300 upstairs.
Uma Lodge (42322) has clean rooms with bath for Rs 120 and without bath for Rs 90. There are larger rooms for Rs 150 to Rs 200. The upstairs rooms are better. The good Pumpernickel Bakery is in this hotel.
Vinayak Cottages (42445), East Raja St, has clean double rooms for Rs 175 and very good cottages for between Rs 250 and Rs 300. The cottages are a good value.
Mamalla Bhavan (42250), on the main street, right next to the bus stand, has Indian style rooms with common bath for Rs 100 and rooms with attached bath for Rs 125. It is a good cheap place and is quiet at night.
Victory Guest House (42179), 5 Othavadai St, has rooms with bath for Rs 250.
Magesh Lodge (42201), 129 East Raja St, has clean, basic rooms for Rs 300 and Rs 400 for a deluxe room.
Selva Vinayaga (42445), near the hospital, has very good cottages with private bath for Rs 200 to Rs 250.
SRP Lodge, 50 Thirukkula St, is a recommended place that has rooms with bath for Rs 160 and other rooms for Rs 100.

Where to Stay—Middle, In Village
There is a government tax of 20% on rooms above Rs 200.
TTDC Hotel Tamil Nadu Unit II Camping Site (42287), by the Shore Temple, is a good place with rooms ranging from Rs 350 to Rs 550 and dorm beds for Rs 60.
Hotel Surya (42292), 1 Thirukula St, has clean rooms for 200/300, Rs 500 with A/C and deluxe for Rs 700. They overlook a lake. It has a nice garden and it is well-managed.
Mamalla Bhavan Annexe (42060; fax 42160; email: mamalla@md3.vsnl.net.in), 105 East Raja St, is a good value with clean, well-maintained rooms with bath for Rs 350, Rs 550 with A/C, and Rs 650 for a deluxe room. It has a good vegetarian restaurant. It is a well-managed, recommended place. Accept credit cards.
Hotel Veeras (42288), right next door, has comfortable rooms for Rs 300 and Rs 500 with a fridge and A/C. It has a restaurant and is well-managed.
La Vie en Rose (42068) has good, clean rooms for Rs 350/550.
Where to Stay—Middle and High By Beach
There are a group of good hotels north of town along the beach and the road going to Chennai. Some of these places are very good values. Many of these places have a swimming pool, a restaurant and accept credit cards.
Ideal Beach Resort (42240; fax 42243), about 3½ km from the town, is a really nice place and is highly recommended. It has cottages and normal rooms for Rs 500/600 and A/C cottages for Rs 700/850. It is popular with foreigners and is well-managed. It has a good pool, which non-guest can use for Rs 100.
Golden Sun (42245), 3km from town, is an excellent place with rooms for Rs 500/600 and A/C rooms for Rs 750/850. It has deluxe sea-facing rooms for Rs 1000/1100 and a good pool in a nice garden. It has a health club and disco. The rooms facing the sea are the best value.
TTDC Hotel Tamil Nadu Beach Resort (42235; fax 42268; Chennai: (044) 830-390), 2km from town, is an excellent value with a very good swimming pool (open to non-guest). Rooms cost Rs 500 and Rs 850 with A/C and hot water. It has a nice garden and the rooms have a view of the sea. This is a very good choice.
Mamalla Beach Resort (42375) has rooms for Rs 200/250 and A/C rooms upstairs for Rs 350. All rooms have hot water. It does not have a restaurant, but serves food in the rooms. It is set back a bit from the sea.
Silversands (42228; fax 42280), 2km north of town, has rooms and cottages for between Rs 900/1400 and Rs 1400/2000. The suites and villas have a view of the sea and are Rs 2800. It has a pool, health club and a good restaurant.
Just 500m from Mamallapuram is the well-located ITDC Temple Bay Ashok Beach Resort (42251; fax 42257), on the beach by the village. It has a view of the Shore Temple, a nice garden and a pool, which can be used by non-guest for a fee. It has nine luxurious stone cottages with kitchenettes on the beach for Rs 1900/2600 with seafacing balconies and also 34 A/C rooms in the main building.

Where to Eat
The best restaurants are usually in the hotels.
Hotel Veeras, 106 E Raja St, has a good restaurant.
Sunrise Vegetarian Hut (42758), 7 Otthavadai Street, the same street that the Rama Krishna Lodge is on, is a pure vegetarian restaurant. The idlis are good. It is not cheap.
Sagar (42472), opposite the Government College of Architecture, has North Indian thalis during lunch and dinner.
La Vie en Rose, nearby, has good French food.
Gazebo (42525), E Raja St, serves Indian and Chinese food. It is one of the best places in town.
Moonrakers (42566), Othavadai St, is a popular place with travelers. It has good food and a good sound system.
Mamalla Bhavan, by the bus stand on E Raja St, is a cheap veg thali (Rs 20) place that also has good South Indian dishes. They make good masala dosas.
Mamalla Bhavan Annexe (42260), on the main street, has the very good Golden Pallate veg restaurant. They often have live classical Indian music outside in the courtyard in the evening. They serve Indian and Continental food. They have a good Dosa Platter for Rs 50 and good ice cream. Recommended.
Pumpernickel Bakery, on top of the Uma Lodge, 15 Othavadai St, is part German and part Nepali managed. It has good cakes, breads, sandwiches, Chinese, and full meals. It is a laid-back, recommended place.
Tina Blue View has a pleasant atmosphere and food. It is on the balcony of the hotel and it has a good view of the sea and temple.
Curiosity Restaurant has good food and breakfasts.
Silver Sands Hotel has a very good restaurant in a nice setting.
Ideal Beach Resort has a good restaurant serving Indian, Continental and Sri Lankan cuisine. It is located in a nice garden.

Local Travel
You can rent a bicycle (Rs 20 a day) or a moped (Rs 150 a day) at the Lakshmi Lodge. There are also bike shops on E Raja St, near the bus stand. Motor scooters and Enfields can be rented from Metro Tours (42456), 137 E Raja St, or Indhu Motor Works, across from the Town Hall, for between Rs 150 to Rs 300 a day. Nathan Cycle Works, across from TTDC, rents bicycles (Rs 20 per day) and motorcycles (Rs 250 per day).
Auto-rickshaws and taxis can be found near the bus stand. You will have to bargain hard to get a decent price for an auto-rickshaw.

Travel
Air The nearest airport is in Chennai.

Rail The nearest railway station is in Chengalpattu (Chingleput), 29km west of Mamallapuram and 60km south of Chennai. From there you can get a bus or taxi to Mamallapuram. If you’re coming from Chennai, it is best to take a bus to Mamallapuram.

Bus From Chennai (2½ hr, 60km) private buses to Mamallapuram leave from Parry’s Corner (next to the High Court Building) at the intersection of NSC Bose Road and Popham’s Broadway. State buses to Mamallapuram leave from Broadway station. The #188, #188 A/B/D and K are faster buses, while the #19, #108B, and #119A take a little longer. Young boys hang around the bus stand to help you get on the right bus for a rupee or two. From the Mofussil bus stand, near Esplanade in Chennai, you take #19A, #19C, and #68 buses to get to Mamallapuram.

There are regular buses to Chengalpattu and Kanchipuram (2 hr, 65km, 5 daily, Rs 15) via Tirukkalukundram. There are several buses a day to Pondicherry (3½ hr, 95km, Rs 20).
Taxi By taxi it takes an hour and a half to get from Chennai to Mamallapuram. The cost is about Rs 600. To take a day excursion from Chennai to here costs about Rs 1000. To Pondicherry is Rs 750. You can get a taxi near the bus stand in Mamallapuram for a long distance trip, but the prices are inflated and you really have to bargain to get a decent price.

Tirukkalukundram (Paksitirtha)
Tirukkalukundram means the “Hill of the Sacred Kite” (tiru—sacred, kaliki—kites, kundram—hill). It is 14km west of Mamallapuram, 60km southwest of Chennai, and 65km east of Kanchipuram. This place is famous because of two birds that have come here to eat almost every day for hundreds of years. Sri Chaitanya came here 500 years ago.

There is an interesting, large Vijayanagar temple dedicated to Lord Siva at the base of the hill with huge gopurams. There is a tank called Sangu-tirtha (sangu means conch) at the southeast end of the village. Every 12 years there is a Valampiri (right-turned) conch-shell found in it that is then displayed in the Siva temple in the village. To have possession of a right-turned conch-shell is considered good luck, and it is considered auspicious to just look at such a conch.

Bhaktavatsleeswar Temple
This Siva temple is on top of the 165m (500 ft) high Vedagiri Hill. It is said that two birds (Neophran vultures) have come here daily, since time immemorial, to receive food from the temple priest. It is said that these two birds are two sages who were cursed by Lord Siva. It is believed that they have their bath at Varanasi, their food here, their rest at Chidambaram, and they worship at Rameswaram. You have to climb hundreds of steps to the top of the hill. As it is a fairly tough climb, it is possible to be carried up.

The priests prepare food and offer it to the Siva-linga. A priest then puts the rice in two silver pots and the birds come and eat it. The birds are seen for about 15 minutes, after which they fly away. Sometimes the birds eat out of the priest’s hand. The birds usually arrive punctually every day between noon and 1 pm. Several people have told me that they saw the birds come and eat. When I was there the priest came out around 12 noon, but the birds did not come to eat that day and everyone left disappointed. At least I did.
Academic scholars accept evidence found recorded on the temple at the bottom of the hill that these birds have come almost daily for at least a thousand years.

Travel
There is no place to stay here. There are a few small shops where you can get cold drinks in the village. This place would normally be visited on a day trip from Mamallapuram, Kanchipuram, or Chennai. The closest railway station is 9km southwest at Chingleput.

There are regular buses from Mamallapuram (14km, 30 min). You can stop here on the way from Kanchipuram to Mamallapuram by bus. There is a tour bus from Chennai that goes to Mamallapuram, then here, and then to Kanchipuram, all in the same day. This tour usually does not arrive in time to see the birds, which is the main reason to come here.

You can ride a bike to here from Mamallapuram between December and February, when it is not too hot. It is a beautiful ride. You can also get an auto-rickshaw or taxi from Mamallapuram.

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