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Udhagamandalam (Ooty)

Pop: 90,000 Area Code: 0423

Ooty is known as the “Queen of Hill Stations.” John Sullivan established Ooty as a Hill Station in 1821. Maharajas built houses in Ooty, which made it an exclusive place. The tombs of John Sullivan’s wife, son and daughter can be visited in the cemetery of St Stephen’s Church, but Sullivan is buried in his motherland, England.

Ooty is very popular with Indian tourists. The main season is from April 1 to June 15, at which time the temperature is about 25°C during the day and the nights can be chilly. The Monsoon season is from July to August. September is also a good time to visit. From November to March it can be quite cold, going down to freezing, 0°C.

As hill stations go, Ooty is not very good. It is expensive and overcrowded during the high-season, and during the winter months it is very cold. Most foreign tourists just spend a day or two. One of the best things about the place, is the journey up on the miniature train.

Orientation
Ooty is a big place. The railway station and bus stand are near the east side of the lake. Most of the hotels are a kilxe "Udhagamandalam" ometre or more from the railway station, and a 25-minute walk to Charing Cross, which is the main town center.

Information
The TTDC Tourist Office (43977), Commercial Rd, Charing Cross, is open from Mon to Fri 10 am to 5.45 pm. They organize a tour of Ooty, Mudumuali and Pykara (daily 9 am to 8 pm; Rs 175); and another tour of Ooty and Coonoor, which goes to Dodabetta, the botanical gardens, Sim’s Park, Dolphin’s Nose and Lamb’s Rock (9 am to 6 pm; Rs 90).

The State Bank of India, Town West Circle, accepts only American Express and Thomas Cook travelers checks in US dollars and pounds sterling. The Big Shop, changes most travelers cheques, but not at a good rate.

The GPO is near Town West Circle.

Higginbothams Bookshop, near the tourist office, has a decent selection.

Gymkhana Club (42254) has a beautiful, well-maintained golf course, which permits temporary membership. Lawley Institute (42249) is a club that has tennis, boating on the lake, billiards and badminton.

MB and Company (2604), Commercial Rd, near Charing Cross, books airline tickets.

Mudumuali Wildlife Sanctuary Reservations
To book Government accommodations at Mudumuali Wildlife Sanctuary or elephant rides (usually heavily booked), you contact the Wildlife Warden (44098) in the Mahalingam Building, Coonoor Rd (Mon to Fri 10 am to 5.30 pm). You have to contact the Warden to get permission to trek around the Nilgiri Hills. He may have trekking maps and may be able to arrange a guide.

Botanical Gardens
It is a beautiful, well-maintained garden, which was established in 1847. It has the largest rose garden in India and a map of India made out of flowers. There is a nice rock garden and a 20 million-year-old fossil tree. Open daily 8.30 am to 6.30 pm; Rs 5, camera Rs 25, video camera Rs 500.

Nilgiri Hills
On top of Mt Kitsch is a popular viewpoint.
From the top of Mt Dodabetta (2620m; 8,700 ft) there are good views of the surrounding countryside. It is about 10km east of Ooty, off the road to Kotagiri. It takes about 1½ to 2 hours (8km) to climb to the top and there are good views on the way. It is a fairly easy climb to the top. Buses come here from the Central bus stand and stay for around 20 minutes before going back to town.

Miniature Train Ride
One of the most interesting things about coming to Ooty is the trip up on the miniature train. There are outstanding views of the Nilgiri Hills. The best views are on the left going up and the right coming down. A unique thing about this train is the locomotive is in the back, which pushes the train up the hill instead of pulling it up. It passes through 16 tunnels and goes over 250 bridges.
The train runs from Mettupalayam to Ooty going via Coonoor.

Other Places
East of the Botanical Gardens is a Toda Mund (village) which has a few huts. Raj Bhavan is the summer home of the governor of Tamil Nadu.
Saint Stephen’s Church, up the hill from Charing Cross, 1km west of the gardens, was built in the 1820s from wood taken from Tipu Sultan’s palace in Srirangapatnam that was brought to Ooty on the back of elephants. There is a cemetery in the back, which contains former British residents.

Ooty’s Lake, on Commercial Rd, 3km southwest of Charing Cross, is a popular place, but is polluted. You can rent a petal boat (Rs 30 per 30 min) or rowboat (Rs 15 per 30 min). You can ride a horse for Rs 50 to Rs 100 per hour, depending on how hard you bargain. Let them come up to you. There is a good children’s playground near the lake (Rs 2).

Wenlock Downs, about 8km from the bus stand, has an 18-hole golf course.

Fernhill Palace, just southeast of the lake, used to be the summer palace of the Maharaja of Mysore. It is now a luxury hotel and is worth seeing.

Shopping
Tibetan Refugees’ Market, Garden Rd, near the Botanical Gardens, sells wool blankets and good sweaters. The Big Store, Commercial Rd, between Charing Cross and the Lower Bazaar, sells handicrafts, silver jewelry and Toda shawls (Rs 250).

Where to Stay
During the high season (April to June) you should reserve a room in advance, because at this time many of the hotels are full and are double price or more. Ooty is more expensive than most places in India. The cheaper and middle range hotels often charge extra for heating. There is a 30% tax added to the price of higher-class rooms.

Where to Stay—Lower
YWCA (42218), Ettines Rd, has rooms for Rs 300 (Rs 400 high-season) and dorm beds for Rs 90. It is often full.
Tourist Lodge (44357), Walsham Rd, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 150 (Rs 250 high-season). Some rooms have a balcony. Bucket hot water in the morning.
Surya Holiday Inn (42567), Upper Bazaar area, has clean rooms for Rs 150/250 (Rs 400 high-season). It is a decent place.
TTDC Youth Hostel (43665), Charing Cross, has rooms for Rs 250 (Rs 500 high-season) and dorm beds for Rs 100.
Sabari Lodge (42735), Upper Bazaar area, has basic rooms with bath for Rs 200 (Rs 300 high-season). Hot water in the morning.
Hotel Mount View (44182), Etiennes Rd, a pleasant older house that has large, clean rooms with hot water in the morning for Rs 400.
Reflections (43834), North Lake Rd, 5 minutes from the railway station, has rooms with hot water for Rs 250 (Rs 350 high-season). It is a pleasant place to stay with a view of the lake. Best to book in advance.

Where to Stay—Middle
Hotel Dasaprakash (42434), Ettines Rd, near the railway and bus stations, has clean rooms with bath for Rs 250 to Rs 550 in the low-season and Rs 400 to Rs 750 in the high-season. It has two veg restaurants.
Hotel Khems (44188), Shoreham Palace Rd, has comfortable rooms for Rs 500/700 (Rs 750/950 high-season).
Nilgiri Woodlands Hotel (42551; fax 42530), Race Course Rd, 1km from the railway station, is an older colonial building, which has clean comfortable rooms with TV for Rs 350 (Rs 500 high season) and cottages for Rs 600 (Rs 700 high season). It is in a quiet, pleasant location.
TTDC Hotel Tamil Nadu (44370: fax 44369) has good clean rooms for Rs 500 (Rs 800 high-season). A TV is extra.
Lake View (43904; fax 43579), W Lake Rd, is a good mid-range place with comfortable rooms for Rs 650/750.
Hotel Nahar (45173), Charing Cross, has rooms with TV for Rs 550 (Rs 750 high-season) to Rs 750 (Rs 1000 high-season). The rooms in the new building in the back are better. It has two veg restaurants.
Regency Villa (42555; fax 43097) is a nice colonial building that has spacious comfortable rooms ranging from Rs 750 to Rs 1100 and cottages ranging from Rs 450 to Rs 850. It has a British Raj atmosphere.

Where to Stay—High
Southern Star (43601), 32 Havelock Rd, on a hill about 2km from town, has clean comfortable rooms, some recently renovated, for Rs 2500.
Holiday Inn (42955), Gem Park, Sheddon Rd, is a nice modern place with rooms for Rs 1500/2800.
Comfort Inn Aruna, Gorishola Rd, is an older place with central heating that has clean, comfortable rooms for Rs 2500 to Rs 3500.
Taj Savoy Hotel (44142; fax 43318), 77 Sylkes Rd, has really comfortable rooms for $95 in the low-season and $150 in the high season. Rooms have a fireplace and a bathtub. It has a very good restaurant and nice lawns.
Fernhill Palace (Taj) (43910; fax 43318), has luxury rooms for $105 ($160 high-season). It is the former hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore (built 1843) and has antique furniture and nice suites. It is surrounded by 40 acres of beautiful gardens and forest. It has a very good restaurant. It is a good value.

Where to Eat
Tandoori Mahal, Commercial Rd, has good food.
Hotel Nahar has two good vegetarian restaurants and a snack bar that serves ice cream and good snacks.
Nilgiri Woodlands has good economically priced thalis.
Shinkow’s Chinese Restaurant, 42 Commissioner’s Rd, has very good Chinese food. A main dish is around Rs 60.
Ooty Bakers, Charing Cross, has a great selection of baked goods, including cakes, breads and pies.
Hot Breads has good pizzas.
Hotel Savoy has good Indian, Continental and Chinese cuisine. Buffet lunches and dinners are Rs 300. It is a high-class place.
Fernhill Palace has good food, in a luxurious setting.

Travel
Train The miniature Blue Mountain train ride up to here from Mettupalayam (4½ hr, 45km) is an interesting way to get to Ooty. The train is supposed to depart from Mettupalayam at 7.45 am, but may be delayed depending if the Nilgiri Express from Chennai arrives on time. It goes via Coonoor (27km), arriving in Ooty at noon. It returns to Mettupalayam at 3 pm (3½ hr). During the high-season, another train departs from Mettupalayam at 9 am and Ooty at 2 pm. During the high-season, there are three trains a day, and the train may not run during the monsoon.
The Nilgiri Express #6605 from Chennai (8.15 pm) to Mettupalayam arrives at 6.30 am, timed to connect with the departure of the miniature train. This same trains departs from Coimbatore at 5.30 am. The train from Mettupalayam to Chennai departs at 7.30 pm. From Mettupalayam there are three trains a day to Coimbatore and Bangalore.

Bus There are state buses to Coimbatore (every half-hour), Coonoor (1 hr, every 15 min), Kotagiri (1 hr, every 15 min), Mysore (5 hr, 22 daily), Bangalore, Chennai (15 hr, 3 daily), Thanjavur (10 hr), Tirupati (15 hr) and Kanyakumari (14 hr).
The private bus companies have buses going to many places and their offices are mainly around Charing Cross. Blue Mountain (43650), Charing Cross, books luxury buses. Sometimes the deluxe buses are actually crowed minibuses (often worst than a local bus), so you should ask exactly what kind of bus you are going on.

To get to Mudumuali Wildlife Sanctuary (2½ hr, 67km, Rs 16), you take the bus to Mysore, which goes via Masinagudi, the village next to the park. You can also take the bus to Masinagudi on the Sighur Ghar road.

In Ooty Area
In the area of Ooty are several tea plantations, which can be visited if you call in advance. National Tea Plantation (20437) and Dhanalakshmi Tea Factory (21122) can be visited. Both places are in Coonoor, 27km from Ooty.

Pykara, 20km from Ooty, is a peaceful village with a nice lake. You can rent a boat to ride on the lake for Rs 40 per half-hour. Three km away is Pykara Dam, where there are rocky waterfalls, which are best-viewed in July and August during the rainy season.

Mukurti Peak, 35km from Ooty, is a nice place to walk to.

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