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Yamunotri

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Altitude: 3,185m (10,000 ft)

This is where the holy Yamuna River begins. Yamunotri is about 234km north of Haridwar. The Yamuna River flows west to east at Yamunotri. Yamunotri is the source of the Hanuman Ganga and the Tons River, which are tributaries of the Yamuna.

Yamunotri stands on the western flank of the always snow-covered Bandar­poonch Mountain 6,315m (20,730 ft). About 2,000 pilgrims a day come to Yamunotri while it is open.

The hard climb from Hanuman Chatti, where the road ends, takes five to six hours. On the way up is the confluence of the Yamuna and Nil Ganga, called Shani Prayag. There is a temple here dedicated to Shani. Worship at this temple is supposed to rid one of the ill-effects of unfavorable stars.

Technically the source of the Yamuna is Saptarishi Kund, a glacial lake. To get there you have to climb right up the mountain, a very hard 12km trek to the base of Kalinda Parbat. You need a guide and at least one day’s acclimatization at Yamunotri to reach Saptarishi Kund.

Yamunotri Temple
This temple (1839) is dedicated to the goddess Yamuna. The deity of Yamuna is carved from black stone, and there is also a deity of Gangadevi, who is white. Yamuna is the daughter of Surya (the sun god) and Sangya. She is the twin sister of Yamaraja, the “Lord of Death.” If you bathe in her waters, you are spared a painful death.

The Yamunotri Temple is built at the foot of Kalinda Parvata (4,421 m/ 14,505 feet). The temple usually opens the last week of April or the first week of May. It closes around the second week of November.

Saptarishi Kund
The actual source of the Yamuna is located at the very difficult-to-reach Saptarishi Kund. You must have a guide to go there. It is believed that seven great Rishis—Kasyapa, Atri, Bhadravaj, Visvamitra, Gautama, Jamadagni, and Vasistha— performed austerities for millions of years here in Satya-yuga.

It takes 16 hours to go up and back down. You have to deal with the high altitude, climbing up hills and over rock, ice, snow, and water. The kund is about a half km in diameter, and its water is dark blue with slushy snow. Very few people come here, as it is a difficult place to reach.

Other Places
Close to the temple are hot water springs where the water gushes out at boiling point. At Surya Kund, which is said to be the most sacred, pilgrims wrap rice and potatoes in a cloth and place it in the hot water. Within a few minutes the rice and potatoes are cooked.

You can slowly get in and bathe in Yamuna Bai Kund, which is about 15m (50 ft) from the temple.

Right next to the temple is Dibya Shila, which is worshiped before puja is offered to Yamunaji.

Hanuman Chatti to Yamunotri
You have to walk the good part of a day, 14km uphill, to reach Yamunotri. It takes five or six hours to walk from Hanuman Chatti. At a distance of 6½ km from Hanuman Chatti there are sulfur springs.

Just past the halfway point is the town of Janaki Chatti, where you can stay for the night. From there you can go to the village of Kharsali (across the river, 1km away), which is a traditional Garhwali village. There is a temple here dedicated to Someshwar, the lord of the heavenly intoxicating Soma beverage. There are good views of the mountains from this temple.

It is a steep and continuous climb to the top, just wide enough for two horses or a dandi to pass. The views are fantastic. The last half kilometre is almost vertical. The walk up is very difficult, but it is easy to walk down. It is advised not to carry too much up the hill.

If you cannot walk up the hill there are other transportations. A dandi (Rs 1500 up and back) is like a palanquin carried by four persons. It is the most comfortable form of transportation, as you can stretch your legs out. Pony rides (Rs 500 up and back) are uncomfortable for most people. Going by khandi (Rs 300 up and back), being carried in a backpack by one person, is uncomfortable.

Where to Stay
Yamunotri is a small town of about 100 buildings. Most of the places are very basic. In Yamunotri there are several dharamshalas to stay at. One of the best places is the Ramananda Ashram. The Nigam Tourist Bungalow, up the hill to your right as you enter the town, has dorm beds for Rs 100. You can expect a basic double room in Yamunotri to be at least Rs 300. It is not such a big town, and most people stop for the night on the way up at Janaki-chatti.

On the way from Hanuman-chatti to Yamunotri, is the town of Janaki-chatti. Just past the halfway point, there is a Nigam Tourist Rest House with dorm beds for Rs 100 and rooms for Rs 300 to Rs 500. It is best to book a room here in advance. The Hotel Ganga Yamuna has rooms for Rs 350. There are several other private guest houses in Janaki-chatti. A decent room is Rs 200/250. In Janaki-chatti there are just basic places to eat. Janaki-chatti is a much nicer town for staying the night than Hanuman Chatti.
There is a Nigam Tourist Bungalow with rooms for Rs 300 a night in the town of Sayana-chatti, two-thirds of the way to Yamunotri from Rishikesh. It is usually fully booked.

A flashlight (torch) is needed because many of the places do not have electricity. Most of the places, however, will supply a candle.

Hanuman Chatti
Altitude: 2135m (8,300 ft)

If you are going to Yamunotri, this is where the road ends. You then have to walk the last 14km to Yamunotri. This is a small town with only basic accommodations. It is a place that most people would want to spend as little time as possible.
In this town is the Nigam Tourist Rest House, down a flight of stairs by the river, which has dorm beds for Rs 90 and double rooms for Rs 550. In June, this place must be booked in advance. The rest of the places in town are real dumps. They are dirty, expensive, and they may not have any water. Rooms are Rs 250 to Rs 400 for two beds with a dirty common bath. You may have to be satisfied with floor space. Except for the Tourist Rest House, there are no other decent places in town.

There is a good chance that there will be no bottled water in this town. I did find bottled water (Rs 20 a bottle) on the route up to Yamunotri. As you are coming back down from Yamunotri, it would be a good idea to get a bottle of water on the way down. I have heard that the so-called drinking water in this town is highly polluted.

Travel
Bus
From Haridwar or Rishikesh (Rs 97) you first take a bus to Hanuman Chatti, which is where the road ends. The distance is about 220km, depending on the route, and takes 9 to 11 hours. The 6 am GMOU bus arrives in Hanuman Chatti at around 3 pm. If you take a later bus from Rishikesh you may have to stop on the way to Hanuman Chatti.

The first bus to Gangotri (11 hr) leaves at 5.30 am and must be reserved the night before. After the 5.30 am bus, the other buses to Gangotri leave when they are full. The next bus is scheduled to depart at 7 am, and that bus should arrive the same day. I took this bus and it left on time. There is no sign or booth to indicate where to reserve buses in advance. The people that reserve the morning buses sit near a building that looks like a shack, right next to the parked buses.

If you arrive in the afternoon it is a good idea to immediately start walking to Janakixe "Uttarkashi" -chatti (3 hr). Janaki-chatti is a much nicer and cleaner town than Hanuman-chatti, and there are several decent places to stay. You can leave your bags at the Nigam Guest House or one of the other guest houses for Rs 4 a bag.

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