West Bengal

Population: 75 million
Capital: Calcutta
Area: 88,000 sq km
Best Time to Visit: October to March
Main Language: Bengali
Literacy Rate: 59% 

The state of West Bengal extends from the Bay of Bengal in the south to past Darjeeling in the Himalaya in the north. The main tourist attractions in West Bengal are Calcutta and the peaceful hill station, Darjeeling. Calcutta is the capital of West Bengal.

There are several other possible places to visit including the temples in Vishnupur, mosques in Malda, an interesting palace in Murshidabad and Sunderbans Wildlife Sanctuary, which has tigers. The holy place of Mayapur and Navadvipa is considered very sacred to Gaudiya Vaishnava devotees of Sri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu.

At the time of Independent, Bengal was split into West and East Bengal. East Bengal became the country of Bangladesh (at first it was a part of Pakistan) and West Bengal became an Indian state, with Calcutta as the capital. Bengalis are known to be among the most friendly and intelligent people in India. 

History
In the 3rd century BC, Bengal was part of the Mauryan Empire. It then came under the control of the Gupta Empire. For a few centuries starting around 800 AD, the Pala dynasty controlled most of Bengal and Bangladesh, along with parts of Bihar and Orissa.

Qutb-ud-din, at the end of the 12th century, brought Bengal under control of the Delhi Sultans. Bengal stayed under the control of the Muslim rulers in Delhi until the death of Aurangzeb in 1707. At that time it became an independent Muslim state.

In 1690, the British established a trading post in Calcutta. In 1756, the Nawab of Bengal, Siraj-ud-daula, captured Calcutta. Clive and his British army defeated him a year later at the Battle of Plassey. Mir Jafar, Siraj-ud-daula’s uncle, aided Clive. When Clive attacked, the men commanded by Mir Jafar did not fight and the British easily defeated the rest of Siraj-ud-daula’s army. Mir Jafar then became the next Nawab, and in return for Clive’s help, gave him great riches. In 1764, the British took complete control of Bengal, after the Battle of Buxar.

Warning As a class, Bengalis are some of the nicest people in India. I have never experienced problems with Bengalis during the four months I stayed in West Bengal. But I do know of other people who had problems. If you have a disagreement with a Bengali, no matter how correct your position, you should know that if a crowd congregates, the foreigner will always be judged wrong. Crowds sometimes become violent. When in Bengal, I remain tolerant and friendly with the people. Avoid speaking about the local politics, especially with students. Don’t even joke on the subject.

Diamond Harbor
Pop: 33,000 Area Code 03174
Diamond Harbor is a small resort, 51km south of Calcutta. It is located at the point where the Ganges River turns south toward the Bay of Bengal. There is a ruined fort here, alleged to date back to Portuguese pirates. It can be reached by train or bus from Calcutta. Visitors to Ganga Sagara usually pass through Diamond Harbor.

The Sagarika Tourist Lodge (55246) has rooms for Rs 275 to Rs 650 and dorm beds for Rs 35. You can book a room at the West Bengal Tourist Office in Calcutta.

Ganga Sagara (Sagardwip)
Ganga Sagar is where the Ganges flows into the Bay of Bengal. Sagara Island is 105km south of Calcutta and about 64km (40 miles) south of Diamond Harbor, at the confluence of the Bay of Bengal and the Ganges. At this point the Ganges is about 24km wide.

Located here is the Kapila Muni Temple, in which Kapila Muni resides with Ganga­mata (the goddess of the Ganges) on his right and King Sagara (the great-great-grandfather of King Bhagiratha) on his left. It is said that the great sage Kapila Muni resides here in trance for the deliverance of the conditioned souls.

West Bengal tourism organizes a boat trip to the Kapila Muni temple.

Every year on Makara-sankranti (mid-January), there is a large, three-day Ganga Sagar Mela Festival in which thousands of pilgrims come here to bathe, hoping to be liberated from rebirth. The bathing festival is literally attended by hundreds of thousands of people from all over India. This makes the festival an austere event. One person who attended told me that he slept only three hours in three days and had nothing to eat.
To get to Ganga Sagar during the festival, you must share a boat with one hundred people, although the boats are meant for twenty, then take a bus, a rickshaw, and then finally walk a good distance.

Where to Stay
There is a Youth Hostel here which can be booked in Calcutta at Youth Services (033 248-0606), 32/1 BBD Bagh South. The Bharat Seva Sangha Dharamshala is free for three days.

Travel
You can first go to Diamond Harbor by train. From Diamond Harbor you take either a bus or taxi to Harwood Point. You then take a thirty-minute ferry crossing to Kochuberia Ghat (Sagar). From there you take a bus (30-min) on the island to where the Ganges meets the sea. You can also go by vehicle up to Kaka Dwip and from there, take a boat to the confluence.

Kalna
This small town, located about 80km north of Calcutta, has some interesting 18th and 19th century terra-cotta temples, built by the Maharaja of Burdwan. There is the huge Lalji temple (1739), Siddheshwari (1740), Ananta Vasudeva, and the large Krishnachandra temple (1755).

The Gauridas Mandir has the deities of Shri Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and Prabhu Nityananda worshiped by Gauridas Pandit, a follower of Shri Chaitanya.

Navadvipa
Pop: 120,000
Navadvipa is 130km north of Calcutta, on the bank of the Ganges River. Mayapur is located across the Ganges from Navadvipa. Navadvipa was the capital of Bengal in the 11th and 12th century. There are many temples here.

Devananda Gaudiya Math
This is where Shri Chaitanya forgave Devananda Pandit for his offenses. Whoever comes here becomes free of offenses. The Radha-Krishna Deities on the altar are named Radha-Vinod Bihari. There is a Varaha Deity on the left altar.

DhameswaraTemple
The Deity of Shri Chaitanya in this temple has his two arms extended out toward the devotees. This Shri Chaitanya Deity was worshiped by Shri Chaitanya’s wife, Shrimati Vishnupriya, after he took sannyas.

There is also a pair of wooden shoes, said to have been worn by Shri Chaitanya. This temple is located about an eight-minute rickshaw ride from the boat ghat.

Around Mayapur

Narasimha Palli (Deva Palli)
This is where Lord Narasimha rested after killing Hiranyakasipu. There is a lake here where Lord Narasimha washed Hiranyakasipu’s blood off his hands.

Located at this spot is an ancient deity of Narasimha said to date back to Satya-yuga, with a decapitated Hiranyakasipu. Prahlada Maharaja is taking shelter directly under the Lord’s foot. Shri Chaitanya and his associates used to come to this place.

Hari-Hara Ksetra and Area
Located here is a deity who is half-Vishnu and half-Siva. Lord Vishnu manifested himself in this form to show how dear Lord Siva is to him.

Murshidabad
Pop: 35,000 Area Code: 03482
This town located north of Calcutta used to be a major port. Siraj-ud-daula, who was the Nawab of Bengal, was assassinated here. There are some 18th century monuments located near the Ganges (Hoogly). At one time it was one of the biggest cities in the world. It is a good idea to hire a bike-rickshaw for half a day to go around to the different sites, as they are fairly spread out.

The Hazarduari Palace, built in 1837 in a European style, is now an interesting museum. In the throne room there is a huge chandelier given by Queen Victoria, and there is also a silver throne. Open daily except Fri 10 am to 4 pm.

Across from the palace is the Great Imambara. The Nimak Haram Deohri (Traitor’s Gate) is where Siraj-ud-daula was assassinated. Across the river is the interesting Tomb of Siraj-ud-daula. There is also the interesting Katra Mosque and the Parswanath Jain Temple. Moti Jhil (Pearl Lake) is a nice place to watch the sunset.

The railway Retiring Rooms are Rs 100 with an attached bath.

Hotel Omrao has singles for Rs 150 and a double with bath is Rs 225.
Hotel Historical has rooms for Rs 110.
Behrampore Lodge, 30/31 RN Tagore Rd, has rooms for Rs 150/175 and A/C rooms for Rs 400/500.
Hotel Manjusha has rooms for Rs 125/200. It is well-managed.
Mayur (20893), 92 Pilkhana Rd, Ranibagan, has mid-range rooms for Rs 250/300 and A/C rooms for Rs 500/550.

Travel
There are several trains a day to Calcutta (4 to 6 hr) Sealdah Station. To get a long-distance bus you have to go to nearby Berhampore, which is five hours from Calcutta.

Malda
Malda may be where one would stay while visiting the ruined cities of Pandua and Gaur. There is not much to do in this town. The Jami Masjid was built in 1596. Malda is known for its excellent mangos. There are some marshy places in the area where migratory birds come from November to mid-February.

The Tourist Office is in the Malda Tourist Lodge.
Where to Stay

Hotel Samrat has rooms with bath for Rs 300 and with A/C for Rs 550.
Malda Tourist Lodge (03512 66123), English Bazaar, has rooms with common bath for Rs 175, Rs 300 with bath and Rs 550 with A/C. It is a decent place with a nice garden.
Meghdoot Lodge has nice rooms.
Hotel Purbanchal has rooms for Rs 175/225 and Rs 550/750 with A/C. It is the best place in town, but is a 15-minute rickshaw ride from the railway station.

Travel
Malda is 350km north of Calcutta and there are trains to Calcutta (7 hr) and New Jalpaiguri (5 hr, 235km). There are buses to Calcutta (8 hr), Siliguri (6 hr) near Darjeeling, Murshidabad and Berhampore.

Gaur
Gaur, 14km south of Malda, was the capital of the Pala kingdom and then that of the Hindu Sena dynasty. When the Muslims took control of Bengal in the beginning of the 13th century it became their capital. Sher Shah Suri sacked the city in 1537. Now the city is basically deserted.
What remain are some of the walls that surrounded the city and some large mosques. The Dakhil Darwajah (1425) is a large 5-storey gate of the Fort. Interesting places to see are the huge Bara Sona Mosque, Tantipara Mosque, Lattan Mosque, Firoz Minar (which can be climbed) and Gumti Gate.

In the Qadam Rasul Mosque (1530) there are footprints of Muhammad enshrined.

Gaur is spread out and difficult to visit on foot. A bike-rickshaw will bring you here from Malda and give you a tour for Rs 150. A taxi from Malda to both Gaur and Pandua is around Rs 400.

Pandua
In Pandua there is what remains of Fakhu-ud-din’s 15th century capital. The most interesting place to visit here is the large Adina Mosque, built in the 14th century by Sikander Shah. It is now in ruins. The Eklakhi Mausoleum built around 1410 has a central dome and nice terracotta brickwork. There are several other mosques.

Pandua, 18km north of Malda, is on the main highway and many buses stop here. The Adina Mosque is 2km north of the village of Pandua.

Jaldhapara Wildlife Sanctuary
Located 130km east of Siliguri, this park is home to the rare Indian rhino (around 40). There are also tigers (rarely seen), elephants, leopards, gaurs, wild boars and deer. It has tall elephant grass within which the rhinos stay. The best time to come is from November to April. During March and April is the best time to see a rhino, when they graze on new shoots. Elephant safaris depart from Hollong, inside the park.

The West Bengal Tourist Office in Sili-guri (0353 431-974) organizes a package tour that includes transportation, accommodation, meals and a one-hour elephant ride. It leaves on Saturday at noon and returns Sunday evening. It can be reserved in Siliguri or Calcutta.

Where to Stay
Hollong Forest Lodge, in the park, has rooms for Rs 900 for foreigners.
Tourist Lodge, in Madarihat outside the park, has rooms for Rs 900 and Rs 200 for a dorm bed, including meals.
These two places can and should definitely be booked well in advance at the West Bengal Tourist Office (WBTDC) (033 248-8271) in Calcutta or the tourist office (0353 431-974) in Siliguri.
Travellers’ Haven Lodge, at Madarihat, is on the edge of the park.
Youth Hostel, at Baradabri, 18km from Madarihat, has basic rooms and dorm beds. These two places can be reserved at the tourist offices in Calcutta or Siliguri.

Travel
Buses depart from the Tenzing Norgay Central bus station in Siliguri to Madarihat (3 hr), 10km from Jaldhapara. From there you get a taxi to Hollong, inside the park, for Rs 120. A taxi from Siliguri to Jaldhapara is around Rs 900. There is a train that goes from Siliguri around 11.30 am to Madarihat that takes 4½ hours.

Mirik
Phone Code 0354

Mirik is a nice hill station at 1750m, around 50km from both Darjeeling and Siliguri. It has a lake, which is surrounded by a 3½ km path. The colorfully painted Mirik Gompa is located about a 10-minute walk above the lake.

Panchashil Lodge (43272) has rooms with bath for Rs 150/200. Well-managed.
Wooden Lodge has rooms with common bath for Rs 150. It has a cheap restaurant.
Mirik Cottages (43270) has modern cottages for Rs 800. It is on the hill above the town and has great views.
Hotel Jagdeet (43359) has comfortable rooms for Rs 600 to Rs 900.
There are buses to Darjeeling (2½ hr) and Siliguri (2½ hr).

Kurseong
Pop 19,000 Phone Code 03554

This place is between Siliguri (50km south) and Darjeeling (30km north), and is a pleasant, peaceful place to stop at while going between the two places. The toy-train to Darjeeling stops here.
There are some nice walks in the area. From Eagle Crags there are some great views. It is a pleasant 4 hour walk through forests to Ghoom.

Maya Guest House (44783), across from the station has basic rooms for Rs 90/160. It has a good Tibetan restaurant.
Luxury Hotel (44321), has rooms for Rs 175/225. Hotel Amarjeet (44669), Hill Cart Rd, has rooms with hot water for Rs 350.
Delhi Durbar (44084), on the road to Darjeeeling, has rooms with common bath for Rs 90 and with bath for Rs 250.
Tourist Lodge (44409) has big pleasant rooms with heaters and hot water for Rs 600 in the old building and Rs 550 in the new one. It has great views. Recommended.

Teesta Bazaar
Located 15km from Kalimpong, Teesta Bazaar is a base for white-water rafting. It costs around Rs 400 per person for a short trip and Rs 1800 for a two-day excursion.

Bhutan
It is possible to go to Phuntsholing, just over the Bhutan border, without a visa. There is a daily bus from Kalimpong to Jaigaon, the Indian border town. There are places to stay in Phuntsholing.

Darjeeling to Sandakphu and Phalut Trek

Darjeeling area Trek
It is a fairly easy trek to Sandakphu and Phalut. On this trek you get a view of four of the five highest mountains in the world—Everest, xe "Kanchendzonga" Kanchendzonga, Lhotse and Makalu. To view the mountains while you trek you should walk north from Sandakphu to Phalut and not the other way around. There are good views of the mountains from Sandakphu and Phalut, but Phalut is closer to them. Along the trek there is a good opportunity for excellent bird watching.

The best time to trek in this area is April, May, October and November. In April and May many flowers are blooming especially rhododendrons. During November the views are clear, but it starts getting cold. December is clear, but by the end of December it is very cold and it might snow. March can also be good and at this time it is also not as crowded. Often accommodations can be fully book in May, June and October, so most likely November when there are clear mountain views is the best time to do this trek.

There are Trekkers’ Huts along the route that have beds for around Rs 50 per night at Tonglu, Sandakphu, Phalut, Molle, Gorkhey, Rimbik, Ramma and Siri Khola. During the busy season of May, June and October they can often be full. They can be booked in advance at the Deputy Commissioner office in Darjeeling or a trekking agency can book them for you in Darjeeling.

If it is cold you most likely will want to have a sleeping bag with you. They can be rented in Darjeeling at the youth hostel or from trekking agencies. You should have rain-gear as it can rain at any time of the year. Porters are around Rs 150 per day and a guide Rs 200 per day. You can follow the path without a guide, but it is unclear in places, so you often have to ask for directions. You may want to look at the comment book at the Youth Hostel and read about what other trekkers have said about the various routes. It is detailed and useful.

There are several routes you can take in the area. The most popular one goes to the viewpoint at Phalut (3530m). It begins in Manaybhanjang, 26km from Darjeeling. Foreigners are supposed to register with the police in Manaybhanjang before departing. There are some places to stay in Manaybhanjang. The trail then goes to Sandakphu (3630m), from where you can return or continue on to Phalut. From there you can go to Rimbik and then get a bus back to Darjeeling. You could also just take a jeep to Sandakphu to get a view of the mountains.

On Day 1 you go from Darjeeling to Manaybhanjang (26km) and then walk to Jaubari (9 hr), where there are several places to stay. You could also walk to Tonglu (10km) on the first day where there is a Trekkers’ Hut. Day 2 you go to Sandakphu (6 hr), which has several basic places to stay. You could also go to Jaubari, where there is a Trekkers’ Hut and the Teacher’s Lodge and then proceed to Sandakphu the next day. Day 3 goes to Molley (5 hr). Day 4 you can go to Gorkhey via Phalut (3550m) or stop in Phalut for the night. Day 5 you can go from Gorkhey to Rimbik (6 hr) and then you return to Darjeeling. If you stopped in Phalut the night before you can go to Rammam, which has some basic places and on Day 6 proceed to Rimbik and back to Darjeeling. There are several places to stay in Rimbik.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides