Changu Narayan Temple

This impressive double roofed temple is said to be the most ancient Vishnu temple in the Kathmandu Valley. The original temple was built around the 4th century. The present pagoda-style temple was rebuilt in 1702 after it was destroyed by fire. It is located in a beautiful peaceful location, 4km north of Bhaktapur, on a hill top in the east side of the Valley. From the temple there are good views of the valley in three directions. The original 5th century stone deity of Lord Vishnu is said to be in the sanctum, but only the priest can see the deity.
The temple can easily be reached by taxi or bus, or it is an interesting walk from Bhaktapur or Nagarkot.

The temple is dedicated to Narayan, who is an incarnation (expansion) of Lord Vishnu. It has many old outstanding stone, wood, and metal carvings dating from the Lichhavai period. On the intricately carved painted roof struts of the temple are intricate carvings of the ten incarnations of Vishnu and goddesses.

A life size 5th century statue of Garuda, the carrier of Lord Vishnu kneels with his hands folded before the temple. Besides Garuda is one of the oldest Licchavi stone inscriptions. In front of the temple here is a statue of kneeling King Bhupatindra Malla and his queen.

There is a sixth century stone statue of Vishnu Viswarup, the universal form of Lord Vishnu that Lord Krishna showed Arjuna while speaking the Bhagavad Gita. On the Lakshmi Narayan Temple there is an 8th century statue of six-armed Trivikratha (Lord Vamana), and next to it is a statue of Lord Narasimha, the man-lion incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Behind the last two statues is a little black slab that has an image of Narayan lying on the traditional serpent Ananta and above it Lord Vishnu with 10 arms and heads. In the northwest corner of the courtyard is a sculpture of Lord Vishnu riding on Garuda, which is on the Rs 10 Nepali banknote. Above the main door is Lord Vishnu holding his four symbols.

The beautifully gilded door is guarded by stone lions of it and has intricate gilded windows on either side. On four pillars in the four corners are the symbols representing Lord Vishnu: the chakra (disc) and conch shell, the lotus (padma), and club (gada).

Non-Hindus can not enter the inner part of the temple.

During the Mila Punhi festival, held on the full moon day of the month of Magh (Jan/Feb), the silver kalash of the Deity is carried in procession. To be greeted by the Goddess Kumari at the Taleju Temple, in Kathmandu.

Where to Stay and Eat
Changu Narayan Hill Resort, a half km from the temple, has really basic rooms with common bath for Rs 250. It has a restaurant.
Champak Restaurant is at the southeast corner of the temple.
Lovely Coffee House has snacks and drinks. It is near the parking lot (car park), from where there are some great views.

Travel
Vehicle The Changu Narayan temple is a couple of hours drive east of Kathmandu (22 km), north of Bhaktapur (4 km). There are regular buses from Bhaktapur (30-min) to the temple. A taxi roundtrip from Kathmandu is around Rs 600 and from Bhaktapur is around Rs 200.

It takes about an hour to ride a mountain bike to here from Bhaktapur. It is an enjoyable 45-minute ride downhill, but the ride uphill is steep and it quite a tough ride. From Bhaktapur it is another 45-minute bike ride to Kathmandu.

Walking or Bicycle The trail from Bhaktapur begins in the northeast part of the city. It is on a hill overlooking the valley. To walk here from Bhaktapur takes about two hours. Once you leave town the temple is clearly visible on top of the hill. The walk is not difficult except the last climb near the temple.

It is a pleasant, interesting walk downhill from Nagarkot to Bhaktapur, stopping at Changu Narayan on the way. It is three or four hour 10km walk from Nagarkot to Changu Narayan.
You can also go on foot or by bike to Bodhnath, Gokarna, Sankhu or other places. From the north or west entrances of the temple is a steep trail that descends to the Manohara River. You then cross the river. You can wade across the river and there is a temporary bridge during the dry season. You are then on the Sankhu road at Bramhakhel, and Gokarna is 3½ km northwest.

If you are coming to Changu Narayan from the Sankhu road, there is a sign for Changu Narayan on the wall of a building at the south side of Branmhakhel. From the sign it is a five minute walk to the river and temporary bridge. It is a hard climb up the steep hill which will take at least 40 minutes. You may want to hire a guide and a bicycle carrier to go up the hill. There most likely will be someone in the village to help you, but you should set a price in advance.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides