Kathmandu
Valley
Other Places
Arniko
Highway to Dhulikhel
The Arniko Highway goes out of Kathmandu southeast through Thimi,
pass the south side of Bhaktapur, then goes down out of the valley
to Banepa and keeps going on to Dhulikhel, the Tibetan border and
to Lhasa.
Nala
The pleasant small town of Nala is 4km northwest of Banepa. The Bhagwati
Temple is in the central square and is one of the few four-tiered
temples in Nepal. The Karunamaya Temple dedicated to Avalokiteshvara
is Buddhist pagoda-style temple, at the border of the town.
Panauti
Panauti is a pleasant laid-back village 7km south of Banepa. Panauti
is at the confluence of the Pungamati Khola and Roshi Khola rivers,
and there is a third underground river that is also said to meet here
like Allahabad in India. It has several temples in it.
Kopan
Located here is the Kopan Monastery (481-268; fax 481-267), which
is a popular place to take courses on Tibetan Buddhism and courses
related to Tibet. It is on top a hill, north of Bodhnath. It is located
9km from downtown Kathmandu.
There is a 10-day residential course on Buddhist philosophy that is
popular with westerners. The course is around $250, which includes
accommodation and food. The rules of the monastery must by followed.
Other courses are on Tibetan medicine, thangka painting and other
subjects.
You can come here while making a walk between Gokarna
Mahadev Temple and Bodhnath.
Road to Sundarijal
People take this road to reach the treks in the Helambu region.
Sundarijal
Sundarijal is in the northeast corner of the valley, 15km from Kathmandu.
Located here is a waterfalls that flows into the old reservoir. This
is where the trek to Helambu begins.
The main reservoir that holds the water that supplies
the valley is about a two hour walk uphill from here. There is a 13th
century sculpture of Mahadevi (great goddess) in rock cave just before
the reservoir.
Travel
Buses come here from Kathmandu city bus station for Rs 18. It is a
nice bike ride here from Gokarna.
You can walk to here from Nagarkot (see Nagarkot walks).
Chabahil
The Chabahil Stupa is a smaller duplicate of the
stupa at Bodhnath. It is around 1½ km west of Bodhnath in the
direction of Kathmandu. It is believed that this stupa was built by
Ashoka’s daughter Charumati. It definitely predates Bodhnath.
Around the main stupa are small chaityas dating from the Lichhavi
from the 5th to 8th centuries. There is a 9th century statue here
of a Bodhisattva, which is one of the best sculptures in the Valley.
A little north is the Chandra Binayak Ganesh
Temple, which has a brass two-storey roof. A little south
is the architecturally interesting 17th Jayabageshwari Temple
ISKCON
(Hare Krishna) Temple
The ISKCON Temple is located about a ten-minute walk from the Budhanilkantha
Temple, in a beautiful rural setting. Buses to Budhanilkantha (8 km)
depart from Rani Pokhri in Kathmandu, every half-hour.
Arniko
Highway Past Dhulikhel
The Arniko Highway is the road to Tibet and China. People doing treks
in the Solo Khumbu region and the Everest base camp take this road,
turning off it to Jiri, which treks begin.
After Dhulikhel the road descends to the beautiful Panchkhal
Valley. It reaches Panchkhal in around 20 minutes. About five minutes
out of Panchkhal there is a dirt road that goes to the left going
to the Helambu region.
The road past Barabise often has landslides. During
the monsoon, between May and August, much of the road is closed. Dolalghat,
8km further on, is at the confluence of the Sun Kosi and Indrawati
rivers. The turn-off for Jiri is 14km further on, on the right.
Lamosangu
Lamosangu is an interesting Sherpa town with some decent shops. It
is a couple kiltometres after the turn off to Jiri. There is nothing
to do here.
Silu Lodge, in the middle of town, has rooms on the two top floors
of a five-storey building. It has rooms for Rs 120. Some rooms on
the top floor have pleasant terraces to sit on.
Barabise
Barabise is a depressing, busy bazaar town with nothing to do in it.
Himalaya Hotel, in the center of town, has rooms for
Rs 90. It has decent dal bhat.
Barabise Guest House, in the center of town, has rooms
for Rs 100. The rooms in the front of the building are very noisy,
so you should get a room in the back.
Tatopani
Tatopani is a small village that has some hot springs. The hot springs
are a five minute walk north of the bazaar. There is a sign on the
right sign with an arrow pointing to the hot springs. The springs
are in the form of a set of showers, which feel great. There is a
small gompa above town with prayers flags on it, from where there
are good views.
Where to Stay and Eat
Sherpa Lodge, at the south end of town, has rooms for Rs 80. It serves
dal bhat meals.
Sonam Lodge, nearby, has rooms for Rs 100. It has dal bhat meals.
Kodari
Kodari, some building on the border of Nepal and Tibet (China), is
next to the Friendship Bridge. You can stop on the bridge and take
a photo in the middle. You can cross here into Tibet. You can ride
a bike and climb a steep 8km to Khasa (Zhangmu) in Tibet where at
the border of the town is Chinese customs. To go any further you need
a Chinese visa. It is 120 km from Kathmandu.
Where to Stay and Eat
Laxmi Lodge & Restaurant is a really basic place with beds for
Rs 40 per person. It serves dal bhat meals.
Kopan
Located here is the Kopan Monastery (481-268; fax 481-267), which
is a popular place to take courses on Tibetan Buddhism and courses
related to Tibet. It is on top a hill, north of Bodhnath. It is located
9km from downtown Kathmandu.
There is a 10-day residential course on Buddhist philosophy that is
popular with westerners. The course is around $250, which includes
accommodation and food. The rules of the monastery must by followed.
Other courses are on Tibetan medicine, thangka painting and other
subjects.
You can come here while making a walk between Gokarna
Mahadev Temple and Bodhnath.
Road to Sundarijal
People take this road to reach the treks in the Helambu region.
Sundarijal
Sundarijal is in the northeast corner of the valley, 15km from Kathmandu.
Located here is a waterfalls that flows into the old reservoir. This
is where the trek to Helambu begins.
The main reservoir that holds the water that supplies
the valley is about a two hour walk uphill from here. There is a 13th
century sculpture of Mahadevi (great goddess) in rock cave just before
the reservoir.
Travel
Buses come here from Kathmandu city bus station for Rs 18. It is a
nice bike ride here from Gokarna.
You can walk to here from Nagarkot (see Nagarkot walks).
Chabahil
The Chabahil Stupa is a smaller duplicate of the
stupa at Bodhnath. It is around 1½ km west of Bodhnath in the
direction of Kathmandu. It is believed that this stupa was built by
Ashoka’s daughter Charumati. It definitely predates Bodhnath.
Around the main stupa are small chaityas dating from the Lichhavi
from the 5th to 8th centuries. There is a 9th century statue here
of a Bodhisattva, which is one of the best sculptures in the Valley.
A little north is the Chandra Binayak Ganesh
Temple, which has a brass two-storey roof. A little south
is the architecturally interesting 17th Jayabageshwari Temple
Charikot
This pleasant town is on a ridge and has some great views.
Laxmi Lodge & Restaurant, in the main square, is
a nice traditional building with wooden balconies with great views.
It has spiral stairways. The rooms in the back are Rs 70 and the rooms
in the front with views are Rs 120.
Sagun Guest House is a friendly quiet place that has
rooms for Rs 100. It does not have any views.
Jiri
Jiri is a nice town that has many hotels in it. The bus stops at the
end of town and then you walk up to the hotels.
Sherpa Guide Lodge has rooms for Rs 50.
Sagarmatha Lodge & Restaurant is a decent place with rooms for
Rs 60.
Godavari
& Pulchowki Route
The road to Godavari is paved, but there is a good amount of traffic
on the road, which does not make very good for bike riding.
It is worth a trip to the top of Pulchowki Mountains
if you come by car, especially if you come between March and May,
when the rhododendrons are in bloom.
Harisiddhi
This Newari village has the four-tiered pagoda Harisiddhi Bhawani
Temple.
Bishankhu
Narayan
The shrine of Bishnakhu Nayaran is one of the most important Vishnu
shrines in the Kathmandu Valley. To get here you go a steep stairway
to a small cave. There is not much to see. There are good views from
the shrine and to get here you past through a nice village.
Travel
The dirt road to Bihshankhu Narayan heads north from the village of
Bandegaon. It then goes southeast crossing a small stream. After about
1km you come to a village and then there is a fork in the road at
the village green. You take the left fork and the shrine is 1km down
the trail.
Godavari
There are several places in the area to see. Located here are the
Royal Botanical Gardens, Pulchowki Mai, Godavri Kunda and St Xavier’s
College. From here the paved road goes to the hills and St Xavier’s
College.
Royal Botanical Gardens
This is a pleasant and peaceful place. As botanical gardens go it
is not so impressive. Most of the trees and plants aren’t labeled,
so regrettably, unless you know already you won’t know what
you are looking at.
There is a white wall next to the entrance. It is open 10 am to 5
pm. Admission Rs 3.
Pulchowki Mai
This three-tiered pagoda temple is dedicated to a Tantric mother goddess.
Next to it is a Ganesh temple. It is not well-maintained. In front
of the temple compound are two tanks that have nine spouts that represent
the nine streams that flow from Pulchowki.
If you take the dirt road south you come to Pulchowki Mai after a
few hundred metres, almost opposite the quarry.
Godavari Kunda
Godavar is a sacred spring considered holy by Hindus. It is about
100m past the Botanical Gardens. Mountain water collects in a pool
in the inner courtyard and then flows through carved stone spouts
in a large tank in the outer courtyard.
There is an important festival here every 12 years, the next being
in 2003.
Where to Stay
Godavari Village Resort (533-675; fax 290-777), a couple of km from
Godavari, is several nice building with good views of the mountains
and countryside. It has a pool, jacuzzi and sauna. The large comfortable
rooms with heater, TV and phone are $170/185. It is often possible
to get a 20% discount.
Travel
Buses depart to here from Lagankhel in Patan (next to Kathmandu) for
Rs 7 (one hr). You can ride here with a mountain bike, but there are
more interesting place to ride to than coming here.
Pulchowki
This is a 2762m high mountain that is the highest point in the area
of the Kathmandu Valley. From the top of the mountain there are some
fantastic views. The mountain is known for its spring flowers, especially
its beautiful white and red rhododendrons.
The shrine dedicated to Pulchowki Mai is not in good
shape.
Travel
The unpaved road to here can be bumpy in places, but a car can make
it if it goes slowly. It takes about 40 minutes to drive from the
bottom of the mountain to the top.
Chapagaon
& Lele Route
The road to Lele is a great road for mountain biking. It is paved
to Chapagaon. Along the way are some excellent views and interesting
villages. On the way to Lele it can be quite steep in places, but
it is an easy ride back. The ride will takes a good part of the day.
To ride from Ring Road to Chapagaon takes about an hour.
Sunakothi
In Sunakothi, 10km from Kathmandu are two temples, the Jagannath Temple
and the Bringarshwar Mahadev Temple.
Thecho
In Thecho, 12 km from Kathmandu, is the colorful Bhlkumari Temple
and the two-tiered pagoda Brahmayani Temple.
Chapagaon
Chapagaon has temples, shrines and shops. At the beginning of town
is a Ganesh temple. There is a Bhairab temple with erotic carving
on the roof struts. There are Krishna and Narayan temples, both of
which are in very poor condition.
Vajra
Varahi
This important and interesting two-tiered Tantric temple complex is
about 500m east of the main road. It was built in 1665. Photography
is prohibited. To get here after you enter Chapagaon then take the
path to the left past the two-tiered temples.
Behind the village, there is an interesting old irrigation
system with stone bridges and channels
Travel
Local minibuses come here from Lagankhel in Patan and takes one to
1½ hours (Rs 10).
By mountain bike it takes about one hour from Ring Road to Chapagaon.
After Chapagaon
About 10 minutes past Chapagaon the road begins to climb into the
hills. The paved road goes to Leprosy Mission and Tika Bhairab in
the Lele Valley.
Lele
Lele Valley is a beautiful, peaceful place. Lele is 19km from Kathmandu.
Tika
Bhairab
Tika Bhairab is a giant, colorful painting on a brick wall, next to
a big sal tree. It is at the confluence of two rivers
Where to Stay
Malla Alpine Resort (410-966; fax 418-383), near Lele, is a very good
place with 18 rooms that have great views for $65/80. It has a pool,
sauna and a first-class restaurant. It is run by the same people as
the Malla Hotel in Kathmandu.
Bungamati
Route
The road to Bungamati makes an interesting bike ride. The road to
Bungamati is the same road that goes through Jawlakhel, just south
of Patan and Ring Road.
Khokna
This is a traditional Newari village. It is known for producing mustard
oil. It was badly damaged during the 1934 earthquake.
There is a two-tiered temple dedicated to Shekali Mai, a mother goddess.
Travel
Khokna is a 10 minute walk past the rice fields, beginning at the
Karya Binayak Temple
Chobar
The attractive small village of Chobar is on top of a hill overlooking
the Bagmati River at the place where it goes through the Chobar Gorge.
Few people visit this village.
Adinath Lokeshwar Temple
The main thing to see in the Adinath Lokeshwar Temple that is dedicated
to Rato Machhendranath, the important valley deity, and inside the
temple in the form of his face. It is holy to both Hindus and Buddhist.
There are six Buddha faces under the temple’s golden torana.
It has many pots, pans and metal water containers hanging from the
temple roof, which are donated by newlyweds to guarantee a happy marriage.
The temple was originally constructed in the 15th century and was
rebuilt in 1640.
Travel
Buses going to Dakshinkali and Pharping often stop at Chobar. You
can also walk to Chobar and the Chobar Gorge while going between Kirtipur
and Patan.
Chobar
Gorge
It is believed that a long time in the past that Kathmandu Valley
was a giant lake. The hill that Swayambhunath is on was an island
in the middle of the lake. Over time the water drained out of the
lake and the valley became what we see today.
It is also said that Manjushri hit with one blow the edge of the valley
with his sword and the water of the valley flowed out. The place that
he hit is the Chobar Gorge, 6km from Kathmandu.
The Chobar Gorge is south of Patan and is where the
Bagmati River goes through the Chobar hill, which is the highest hill
on the south side of the valley. The nice village of Chobar is on
top of the hill. There is a cement factory near the Gorge. There is
a suspension bridge across the river and there are good views from
the bridge of the gorge and the Jal Binayak Temple on the other side.
Many snakes were washed out of the valley at this time, but Kartotak,
the “King of the Snakes” is said to still live in the
Taudaha pond, near the gorge. Ducks like to stop at the pond while
traveling between Siberia and India. Behind the pond is a hill called
Champa Devi and Dinacho, which means “meditation place.”
Jal
Binayak Temple
This is an important tripled-roofed Ganesh temple next to the river
below the Chobar Gorge. The image of Ganesh is a large rock and does
not look much like the elephant headed Ganesh. It was built in 1602,
but there was most likely a temple here earlier. There is a deity
of Siva and Parvati in the Uma Maheshwar form, which is said to date
to the 12th century. In the temple courtyard is the carrier of Ganesh,
who is depicted as a shrew and not the usual rat carrier of Ganesh.
On the roof struts are the eight Bhairabs and the Ashta
Matrikas, or eight mother goddesses. On the lower roof there are figures
of Ganesh. There are also some erotic figures.
Travel
Chobar Gorge is usually visited while going to Pharping and Dakshinkali.
You can also come here while making the interesting walk from Kirtipur
to Patan via Chobar. See the Kirtipur section for details.
From the gorge you can cross the bridge and then go
up the hill going north towards Patan. You can go past the Nakhu jail
and go over the Nakhu Khola River, then go past Ring Road, then to
Jawlakhel and to Patan.
Sekh
Narayan Temple
The Sekh Narayan Temple, 18km from Kathmandu, is part of some interesting
temples, tanks and carvings. The tanks on next to the road to Pharping
where it makes a sharp left turn (coming from Kathmandu). The Sekh
Narayan Temple is above the tanks and above it is a colorful overhanging
cliff. There is a Buddhist temple next to it.
The Sekh Narayan temple dates from 17th century and
it is believed that it was a place of worship before this. Next door
is a shrine has a bas relief of Vishnu Vikrantha, who is the dwarf
Brahman incarnation of Lord Vishnu, Vamana. It is believed to date
to the Licchari period in the 6th century.
There is a sculpture of Surya with a lotus flower on each shoulder,
half-submerged in one of the ponds, with a stone arch about him. It
dates from the 12th or 13th century.
There is also a 20th century Tibetan gompa.
Travel
Sekh Narayan is near to Pharping. Unless you have your own transportation,
it most likely is best gotten to by foot from Pharping.
Vajra
Jogini Temple
The 17th century pagoda-style Vajra Jogini Temple is on top of a hill
overlooking Pharping. It is dedicated to the same goddess as at the
Vajra Jogini Temple near Sankhu. See the Sankhu section for the story
of the goddess. The temple is within a courtyard
Travel
The temple is a short walk from Pharping on a hill overlooking the
town. The Gorakhnath gompa is just a couple of hundred metres away
up some steps.
There is an interesting two-hour walk that goes from
Dakshinkali to Gorakhnath, Vajra Jogini, Pharping and then return
to Dakshinkali.
Coming from Kathmandu after you past Sekh Narayan, you pass a soccer
field. The main road turn left, but if you continue straight you come
to Vajra Jogini and then Gorakhnath.
Gorakhnath
There are several temples and gompas in the area. There is a cave
here that Tibetan believe to have association with Padmasambhava,
the Bodhisattva that some people believe with bring Buddhism to Tibet.
There is a white Tibetan gompa on the hill above the Gorakhnath cave,
from where there are fantastic views.
There are great vies of Pharping, the valley and the
Bagmati River. On a clear day you can see the Himalaya Mountains.
Travel
It is easy to walk to Gorakhnath from Pharping and Vajra Jogini and
a harder walk from Dakshinkali.
Pharping
Pharping is a traditional Newari town. The main road does not go through
the village, so there is not much vehicle traffic in town. It was
its own city state before King Prithvi Narayan Shah united the Nepal.
Where to Stay
Dakshinkali Club Resort is down a bumpy road about 750m off the main
road.
Dakshinkali Village Inn (290-653; fax 330-889), nearby, has decent
rooms for $14/22. On the off-season there are often 20% discounts.
It has a pleasant garden, good views and a good restaurant.
Hattiban Resort (371-397; fax 371-561; email: nepal@intrek.wlink.com.np),
on a ridge a few km before Pharping, is in a pine forest about 2km
down a really rough, steep road from the road. It can be reached by
parking in the guarded parking lot and then taking the hotel’s
four-wheel drive vehicle. It has some fantastic views. It is a pleasant
place with rooms with bath and balcony for $72/85. The restaurant
has a really good terrace and meals cost around $11 for a full meal.
Where to Eat
There are a few places to eat in Pharping. The Snowland is a good
Tibetan restaurant. It has good momos. There is also the Asura Cave
restaurant.
Travel
Buses from Kathmandu come here from the City bus stand and take about
two hours (Rs 14).
Nagarjun
Forest Reserve
It is also known as Nagarjun Ban (Forest) or Rani Ban. There are deer,
pheasants and other animals in this park. It is on a hill near Balaju.
On top of the 2096m hill is the Buddhist pilgrimage
place of Jamacho. There is a stupa on top that is said to be where
Buddha sat during a visit to the Kathmandu Valley, but whether this
is true is doubtful. An unpaved road comes here. You walk here up
the 5km trail that begins near the entrance. There is a viewing tower
and from here there are great views on a clear day to the north where
you can see from Annapurnas to Langtang Lirung. There are great views
to the south of the Kathmandu Valley.
There is a steep 30km unpaved road up to the top to
Nagarjun. There is also a well-marked walking path to the Nagarjun
which takes two hours. At the top there is a lookout tower and a stupa.
There are several routes that you can take back down.
The north side of the ridge has many limestone caves.
Nagarjuna, the 2nd century Buddhist saint, is said to have lived and
died in one of the caves here.
The reserve is supposed to be open from 7 am to 10 pm,
but sometimes you will not be allowed to enter until 10 am. Admission
Rs 5; Rs 50 for a car; Rs 20 for a motorcycle.
Travel
It is a 25-minute bike ride to the main entrance from Thamel. The
walking path to the top begins on the right a little past the entrance.
It is a steep climb and you should bring water, because there is none
sold in the park. There are several paths down. You should not take
the main road, because it is 30km long.
Trisuli
Bazaar and Nawakot
There is nothing really to do here, but you may stop here while visiting
Nawakot.
In Nawakot, a couple kilometres southeast of Trisuli,
are the interesting ruins of the fort built by Prithvi Narayan Shah
as he was preparing to conquer the Kathmandu valley.
Where to Stay
There are several places on the east side of the bridge. None of the
places are very good.
Trishuli Rest House is a decent place, as is Ranjit Hotel.
Travel
It is a fantastic drive from Kakani to Trisuli. Buses come here from
Kathmandu bus station from 6am to 2 pm in five hours (Rs 45). It is
an interesting tough bicycle ride to here.
Dhunche
Dhunche is a Tamang village where treks in the Langtang area begin.
Treks also begin at Syabru. It is 120km from Kathmandu. To come to
Dhunche, you have to pay the Rs 1000 entry fee for Langtang National
Park. There are some great views on the way to here from Kathmandu.
Where to Stay and Eat
There are several decent trekking-style places here. Hotel Namaste
is a clean place with rooms for Rs 75 and Rs 25 for a dorm bed. It
serves good food. The Hotel Langtang View is decent.
Travel
There is a bus from Kathmandu bus station (8½ hr, 7 am). The
bus continues to Syabru on a very bad road. The views to Dhunche are
outstanding.
Samdang
After the road passes Dhunche it becomes very steep and the views
are fantastic. It reaches Sandang at 3600m. There are some excellent
day walks in the area Samdang and there are great views.
Ganesh Himal Resort (227-929) is a pleasant place to
stay with rooms for Rs 40. It should definitely be booked in advance.
