Kumari Chowk

At the far end of the square, where the Durbar and Basantapur meet, is the Kumari Bahal (House of the Living Goddess), where the Kumari or the “living goddess” lives. The present Kumari began her service in 1993 at the age of 4½ years old. It is believed that she answers the question you are thinking by the look of her face.

This white three storey building has intricately carved windows and balconies and its entrance is guarded by stone lions. It was built by Jaya Pradash Malla in 1757.

In the courtyard there is a small stupa with symbols on it of Saraswati, the goddess of learning.

She is said to be a living incarnation of the goddess Parvati, by the Hindus and is considered an incarnation of Tara by the Buddhist. She is selected from a group of young girls from the Buddhist Shakya lineage of Newari gold or silver smiths by esoteric rites. She must have a correct horoscope and has to meet 32 physical requirements in reference to the color of her eyes, eyelashes like a cow, a neck like a conch-shell, body like a banyan tree, her teeth and the sound of her voice.

She is then placed in a darkened room with buffalo heads displayed. Men dance around here with horrible masks and make loud scary noises. During this time she must not show any fear. The Kumari then chooses clothing and decoration that were wore by previous Kumaris, in a test like that done while selecting the Dalai Lama. Also her horoscope can not be incompatible with the king.

After being selected as the Kumari, she moves into the Kumari Bahal and her family move in with her. She does not leave, except for during Indra Jatra and several other festivals. During her period as the goddess she lives in seclusion and her feet are not allowed to touch the ground. When she reaches menstruates at puberty, or when she has a serious accidental blood lost, another girl takes her place and she is allowed to get married. It is believed that to marry an ex-Kumari is bad luck. After stopping being the Kumari she is paid a good dowry.

During the important Indra Jatra Festival in August-September she places tikka (auspicious mark) on the forehead of the king to reaffirm his position of power. The Malla king by defeated by Prithvi Narayan Shah just before Indra Jatara took place, just as if the goddess Taleju has indeed taken away her protection of the king. During the festival she rides on a huge chariot throughout the city for three days.

There are several Kumaris, or living goddess in the Kathmandu Valley, but the Kumari Devi, or Royal Kumari at Kathmandu is the most important,

Visitors are allowed to enter the courtyard, from where the Kumari may sometime be able to be seen standing by a first floor window. It is more likely to see the Kumari in the morning or late afternoon. You are supposed to give a small donation. The Kumari can not be photographed, but you can take photos of the courtyard.

There is a large chariot, behind the big gate next to the Kumari Bahal, which carries the Kumari around Kathmandu every year.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides