North of Durbar Square

The most interesting street for sites runs northeast from Durbar Square. It goes from Durbar Square to Rani Pokhari, which is an artificial lake. Along this road are temples, sculpture on the building, stupas, shrines and shopping areas. In the past this was the main street in Kathmandu and was not paved until 1960. In 1934 after the great earthquake, New Road became the main street.
The road that goes northeast from the northeast corner of Durbar Square near the Taleju Temple is known as Makhan Tole. Between Durbar Square and Indra Chowk (Square) there are many interesting shops that sell clothes, thangkas, paintings and Tibetan handicrafts.

At the beginning of the street, across from the Taleju Temple is a small Vishnu Temple with a 10th statue of Garuda in face of it. The Tana Deval Temple is to the right s in a courtyard with a wall around it. It has three carved doorways and roof struts depicting the multi-armed Ashta Matrikas (mother goddesses).

Indra Chowk
The first major crossroads is Indra Chowk, which is named after the Hindu god Indra, who is the king of heaven. The Akash Bhairav Temple is covered with colorful ceramic tiles and has four metal lions on its balcony. It is also known as the Sky Temple. The temple is upstairs and to get to the temple you go up the stair to the right of the building. Non-Hindu can not enter the temple. The silver figure of Bhairav can be seen from the street. During the Indra Jatra Festival in Aug/Sept, a large mask that represents Akash Bhairav is shown in the square. Also a big linga is put in the square during the festival.

There is a Ganesh temple near the Akash Bhairab Temple. There is also the Shiva Temple, which is similar to the Krishna Mandir in Patan.

Blankets and cloth is sold in the square. The road the good directly north from the square goes to Thamel.

Kel Tole
The next intersection is Kel Tole, a little down the road, where there is the well-decorated Seto (White) Machhendranath Temple. It is one of the more important temples in Kathmandu and both Hindus and Buddhist worship at this temple. In the temple there is a seating image of a white-faced of Seto Machhendranath. Buddhist worship Seto Machhendranath as a form of Avalokiteshvara and the Hindu worship him as a form of Siva, who brings rain.

It has an arched doorway with an image of Buddha on a high stone pillar faced by two lions. In front of the temple are bronze images of Taras on top of high pillars. It is not known exactly when the temple was built, but it was renovated in the 17th century. In the courtyard there are many shrines and statues of deities.

The deity of Seto Machhendranath is placed on a chariot and paraded around the city during the Seto Machhendranath festival in March/April. The parade ends of Machhendranath Temple in the south section of the city.

In the middle of Kel Tole is the Tantric tripled-roof Lunchun Lun Bum Ajima Temple. It has some erotic carvings on the bath struts.

Asan Tole
At the next intersection, Asan Tole is the Annapurna Temple, the goddess of plentiful food. Between Kel Tole and Asan it the Krishna Temple, on the left. It has some ornate woodcarvings.

When the road meet Kantipath, on the right is Rani Pokhari, a tank built by King Pratap Malla.

At Kathesimbhu, between Thamel and Durbar Square just south of the Thahity Tole crossing is a smaller version of the stupa at Swayambhunath. Those who are too weak to climb to Swayambhunath are believed to get the same benefit by visiting this stupa. It is said to be made of the same earth as Swayambhunath and is believed to have the same power.

The Naradevi Temple, between the Chhetrapati area and Durbar Square, is dedicated to Kali.
South of Naradevi Temple on the road to Durbar Square is a beautifully carved wooden window called Desha Maru Jhayi on the upper floor of a building.
Just south of the window is a beautifully carved balcony on the right side of the street.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides