Swayambhunath Stupa
(the Self-Existent)

Swayambhunath is an ancient Buddhists stupa, three km west of downtown Kathmandu, said to be 2,000 years old. On this Stupa, which is surrounded by over 200 pray wheels, are the famous all seeing eyes of Buddha, which are an easily recognizable. What looks like a nose is the Nepali number one, which represents the unity of all things.

Swayambhunath is on top of a 77m (240 feet) hill. It takes about 20 minutes to walk up the more than 350 stairs. There is an excellent view of the Kathmandu valley and the surrounding mountains from here. There are many monkeys here who may try to grab things that people are holding especially food.

There is an entry fee of Rs 50 if you enter from the western side where the car park is located, but there is no entry fee if you climb the eastern stairs.
The Kathmandu Valley is believed by geologists to have been a huge lake and the Swayambhunath was an island in the lake. It is said that Emperor Ashok visited this place 2000 years ago. King Manadeva instructed that some work by done here in 460 AD. It has an important Buddhist site by the 13th century. Muslims invaders broke open the stupa in 1346. In the 17t century the stairway up to the stupa was constructed by King Pratap Malla.

From the hill where Swayambhunath is located there on great views of the valley and Kathmandu. In the evening it is very interesting.

Eastern Stairways
You can reach the stupa by car by taking the western entrance; the more interesting and more difficult way to reach the stupa is climbing the eastern stairways.

At the base of the hill is a brightly painted gateway. Within the gatehouse there is a large prayer wheel, almost 4m {(12 ft) tall, which strikes a bell when it goes around. It is believed that if you spin a prayer wheel that all the prayers written inside are recited and send upward to heaven.

Near the beginning of the stair there is a stone footprint, which is said to be either that of the Buddha or of Manjushri.

Stupa
On top of the high central stupa on a golden colored square of the all watchful eyes of the Buddha looking in all four directions. The noise is actually the Nepali number one (ek) and it symbolizes unity. Between the two normal eyes is a third eye above that symbolizes the clairvoyant powers of the Buddha.

The base represents the four elements — earth, water, fire and air. The 13 levels of the spire represent the 13 steps to realization that leads to nirvana, which the umbrella symbolizes.
Around the base of the stupa are prayer wheels that pilgrims spin while walking around the stupa. There are prayer flags on the lines connected to the spire which has mantras on them which in the winds take the words away.

Places on Hill
At the stop of the stairs are two shikhara Indian style temple and stone lions and a huge dorje that were built by King Pratap Malla in 1646. The right temple is the Pratapura temple and the one on the left on the Anantapura temple. Dorje is the Buddhist word for thunderbolt. With the thunderbolt there are often bells. The thunderbolt symbolizes the male force and the bell symbolizes the female wisdom.

If you make a right after coming up the eastern stair there is a gompa where there is a 5m high statue of Avalokiteshwara and huge prayer wheel. At around 4 pm there is an interesting ceremony in which there is chanting, trumpeting and cymbal banging.

There are several temples on top of the hill. A large image of the Sakyamuni Buddha is in a monastery next to the Stupa.

There is a temple dedicated to Hariti Devi, the goddess of smallpox and fertility. The Newars know her as Ajima, and worship to protect children. She is seen sucking the inside out of a corpse. It is said that she was asked by the Buddha to stay near Buddhist temples and not inflicts disease if she was worshipped. There is a huge prayer wheel next door.

There are pillars near the Hariti Temple that have various deities on them. There is an interesting figure of Tara, making a hand movement.

T here is also a temple dedicated to the goddesses Yamuna and Ganga (Ganges) that has an eternal flame. There is a Museum that has a good collection of Buddhist and Hindu sculptures. The International Buddhist Library, behind the stupa, is open daily except Tuesday 11 am to 3 pm.

The symbols of the five element are located around the hilltop — earth, water, fire, air and either. Behind the Anantapura temple there are the Vasupura, the symbol of the earth and Vayupura, the symbol of air. Northwest of the platform is Agnipura, the symbol of fire and Nagpura, the symbol of water is north of the stupa. Shantipura, the symbol of sky (either) is north of the platform near the Shantipura building.

Near the north part of the platform, there is a big statue of the Buddha and an ancient stone inscription dating form 1372.

Travel
Swayambhunath can be gotten to by foot, bike or taxi. It is a pleasant walk from Thamel to here. Unless you tell the taxi driver he will usually take you on the road that goes via the National Museum to the western side of f Swayambhunath. From there it is an easy walk to the top of the hill.
The walk up the eastern stairways is an interesting way to get to the stupa on top of the hill. It is a fairly hard climb. A taxi from Thamel to the western side of Swayambhunath is Rs 60 and to the bottom of the eastern stairs is Rs 50.

If you ride a bike to Swayambhunath it could be a good idea to pay a few rupees for someone to look after your bike when you get there.

There are two routes to walk to here. On one you start in Chhetrapati, west of Thamel and you descend to the river and other way you pass the Indrani Temple before going over the bridge. You can clearly see the stupa on top of the hill. You then pass Bijeshwari Temple on the left and Shobabaghwati Temple on the right. From the river it is a one km walk.

From Durbar Square you take Maru Tole (Pie Alley) to the footbridge across the river. It is then a pleasant one-kilometre walk pass some shops, gardens and shops to the base of the hill.

Copyright ©2001 John Howley and Spiritual Guides