Lumbini
Area
Code: 071
Lumbini is believed to be the birthplace of the Buddha, Siddhartha
Gautama. It is a peaceful place located in the western Terai of Nepal,
close to the Indian border, 22km west of the towns of Bhairawa and
Sunauli. There is not much here except a few monuments and some monasteries.
It is believed that Maya Devi, the mother of the Buddha, gave birth
to Siddhartha, while she was traveling to her parent’s house.
It is said that she went into labor, then she bath in the pond and
walk 25 steps and then delivers here child.
The main area is known as the “Sacred Garden.” It only
takes a couple of hour to see everything. Most people who come here,
visit for the day from Bhairawa. The best time to visit Lumbini is
the early morning or late afternoon, and the hot mid-afternoon is
best avoided.
Orientation and Information
The main archeological sites are located in the Sacred Garden. The
newer temples are located north of the Sacred Gardens and some of
them are in the new Master Plan area and some aren’t.
There is a tourist information booth is near the parking area at the
entrance of the Sacred Garden. They may be able to arrange a guide.
One of the Lumbini Development archeologists can provide good information
about the site.
You can change money at the Nepal Bank of Ceylon, in
Buddha Nagar on the main road (Sunday to Thursday, 10 am to 2 pm,
Friday, 10 am to noon).
Festivals
There is a Buddhist festival in April/May called Buddha Jayanti here
to celebrate the appearance of the Buddha. At the same time there
is a big Hindu festival celebrated on the full moon day of the Nepali
month of Vaisakha (April/May), when Hindu come to worship Maya Devi
as Rupa Devi, the goddess of Lumbini.
History
It is believed that the Sacred Garden was made after the Buddha’s
death and that there was at least one Buddhist monastery here when
Emperor Ashoka visited. The Indian Emperor Ashoka came to Lumbini
in 245 BC and erected one of his famous pillars here. In 636 Hsuan
Tang and saw many run-down monasteries. In the 15th Muslim came to
the area and most likely destroyed what remained of the monument here.
After this time the site got covered over by jungle and was lost.
In 1896 Palpa Shumsher Rana excavated the Ashoka pillar. Nothing really
remains of the ruins of the past accept the pond where it is said
Maya Devi bathed. There are some foundations of viharas and stupas
near the pond.
Ashokan Pillar
The Indian Emperor Ashoka (249 BC) visited Lumbini and erected an
inscribed Ashokan Pillar on the spot of Buddha's birth. The inscription
of the pillar (the oldest in Nepal) declares that Ashoka granted Lumbini
tax-free status in honor of Buddha’s birth. It is 6m high and
half of it is beneath the ground. It is behind the Maya Devi Temple,
to the west of the temple. Emperor Ashoka erected many other pillars
throughout India. The carved top of the pillar has never been found.
Maya Devi Temple
There used to be is a temple here dedicated to Maya Devi, Buddha’s
mother. Parts of the temple are over 2,000 years old. It is believed
that the temple was located where the Buddha was born. There used
to be a pipal tree here that some people believed to be the tree that
Maya Devi gave birth to Siddhartha under.
In 1993 the temple was demolished and the tree cut down
and an archaeological excavation has been taken place. A commemorative
reddish-brown stone (70 cm long) on top of a platform has been discovered
5m (16 ft) below the old location of the temple. It is said that Ashoka
placed a memorial stone at the place where the Buddha took birth.
The stone was found where according a Buddhist literature, where the
distance from the pond where the Buddha is supposed to have taken
birth.
Excavation point to the fact that there are remains
of a Gupta period (4th to 6th century), is on top of foundations from
earlier Kushana and Mauryan periods.
There is a bas-relief sculpture of Buddha’s birth, said to date
to 14th century that used to be in the old temple.
There is a pond next to the temple and just south of
the Ashoka pillar, where Maya Devi is said to have bathed in, before
(some say after) the delivery of the Buddha. There are some ruined
foundations of stupas and buildings dating from the 2nd century to
the 9th century.
Buddhist Monasteries
There are heavily restored brick foundations of stupas and buildings,
which date from the second century BC to the ninth century AD. There
are two modern monasteries. The Tibetan Dharma Swami Maharaja
Buddha Vihar was established by Chogye Trichen Rinpoche and
built by the king of Mustang. It has some aged paintings and gilded
Buddhas and bodhisattvas.
The Theravada Lumbini Buddha Vihar
was built by the Nepal government. It has some Tibetan-style paintings,
Newar woodwork and Buddhist images.
Master Plan Area
The government has set aside a large area of land north of the Sacred
Garden to build a large pilgrimage centre consisting of monasteries,
gardens, fountains and a tourist village. Some work has already been
done. Several foreign temples and monasteries have already been built,
and over a half a million have been planted.
There is an eternal flame, which is supposed to represent
the “Light of Asia.”
In the east side of the area a site has been set aside
for the building of Buddhist monasteries built in the national style
from countries from all over the world, with the form of worship from
the particular countries.
Some monasteries have already been built. The Chinese
Monastery has a large statue of Buddha and is built like a small-Forbidden
City. The Myanmar (Burmese) Pagoda was built in the style of the famous
Shwedagon temple in Rangoon.
There is a Cultural Center. North of the Cultural Center is the large
Lumbini Shanti Stupa which is being built. When it is finished it
is supposed to be 40m high.
The Lumbini Crane Sanctuary is where around 30 endangered
sarus cranes live. They are the tallest flying bird. Around 200 or
300 of these cranes live in Nepal. Storks, egrets and other water
birds are also here. The area around the master plan has around 150
species of birds.
Where
To Stay
Most people come just for a day trip and usually stay the night in
Bhairawa or Sunauli 22 km away.
It is possible to stay in the very basic facilities at some of the
monasteries for a donation. Sometimes the bathrooms can be quite depressing.
The Theravada monastery has a basic dharmshala. It may be possible
to stay at the Tibetan Monastery, outside of the winter months. It
may also be possible to stay at the Dae Sun Suk Gu Sa Monastery.
Lumbini Village Lodge, Lumbini Mehalbar, about 2 km
east of main site, has simple rooms (a bit depressing) for Rs 200/300.
Basic meals are Rs 40.
Sri Lankan Pilgrims Rest House (20009, 80109), about
a half-hour walk (3km) from the Sacred Garden, is a large modern place
that has clean rooms with common bath and hot water. Dorm beds are
Rs 250. It has a restaurant.
Hotel Rainbow (80169) has air-cooled rooms for Rs 500/600.
It is over-priced and is right on the highway so can be noisy.
Mikasa Hotel is a new place with good rooms.
Lumbini Buddha Hotel (Kathmandu: 423-618; email: asainadv@mos.com.np)
is a mid-range place with hot water and air-cooled rooms. It has a
restaurant. It is southwest of the Sacred Garden.
Lumbini Hokke Hotel (20236, 80236; fax: same), several km north of
the main site, is a luxury hotel with rooms for $90/130. It is managed
by Japanese and is used mainly by Japanese Buddhist pilgrims. Meals
for non-guest are $12 or more. It has rooms with Japanese furniture.
It is one of the best hotels in Nepal.
Hotel Lumbini Garden New Crystal is newly built. Pool,
health club and meditation center.
The Lumbini Garden Restaurant, near the main parking lot (car park),
is a decent place that has Indian and Western dishes. The is an eating
place in the compound of the Theravada Monastery
Travel
Air The closest airport is at Bhairawa, from where
there are flights to and from Kathmandu.
Road There are twice hourly minibuses
buses from Bhairawa (2 hr, Rs 18), which is 22 km away. From where
the buses let you off, you have to walk a kilometre. The last bus
back is about 5 pm. Buses from Bhairawa leave from near the main intersection,
across the street from the Hotel Yeti.
A taxi is much more convenient than the bus. Taxis cost
Rs 500 ($10) return and an auto-rickshaw is Rs 250 ($5). You can arrange
a taxi with a travel agent or at the Hotel Yeti in Bhairawa. This
includes the trip there and back and two hours waiting time. If you
hire your own vehicle you can also have it take you to Tilaurakot
(see below).
You can get a bus from Bhairawa to Kathmandu or Pokhara. There are
also buses to Varanasi and Gorakhpur (where you get the train to Delhi).
It is a 22km bike ride from Bhairawa. You can often rent a bike through
your hotel. It is a decent ride if it is not too hot. The bike will
be helpful to get around in Lumbini, as it is spread out.